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Redlands floral design group participates in orchid show

Last year, the Redlands Horticultural and Improvement Society Floral Design Group was invited to present the first invitational floral design exhibit in the more than 50-year history of the Southland Orchid Show at the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino.

That floral design exhibit was such a success, the Southland Orchid Show Association invited the Redlands group to return this year to help incorporate a National Garden Clubs standard show into the October event, “Orchid Mystique.”

Top floral designers from throughout Southern California entered their floral designs, all featuring orchids. National Garden Clubs judges from Southern and Northern California – including the California Garden Clubs’ Judge of the Year and Woman of the Year – judged the show.

The Redlands Horticultural and Improvement Society Floral Design Group has been invited to return next year.

In 1959, Southern California Orchid Societies joined together as the Southland Orchid Show Association to stage a large regional orchid show now held every October at the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino.

The Redlands Horticultural and Improvement Society Floral Design Group, a part of Redlands Horticultural and Improvement Society, has had the honor of being invited to be a part of other flower shows, plant shows, orchid shows, African violet shows, national chrysanthemum shows, dahlia shows, iris shows, rose shows, statewide California Garden Clubs meetings and annual California Women for Agriculture conventions.

The Floral Design Group offers programs for those who enjoy and want to explore the art of floral design for personal use, community programs, floral exhibitions and flower shows. The group also presents design programs and participates in floral displays and exhibitions by invitation.

Information: 909-798-9384; email floral design@rhis.org

SOURCE: Joyce Dean, a member of the Redlands Horticultural and Improvement Society

Local market gardener offers tips for selling your veggies

Doug Lyseng, who has a farm at Armena, Alberta, and a vegetable booth at the Old Strathcona Farmers Market, is speaking at a vegetarian potluck this coming Sunday. He’ll be sharing his experiences in growing and selling vegetables.

The potluck is at Park Allen community hall on Sunday, October 28th at 5 p.m. It’s being hosted by the South Edmonton Vegetarian and Gardening Club. If you’d like to attend, come with a vegetarian/vegan or raw dish for six people, plus utensils and a second dish if you’re bringing a guest. 

It costs $6 per person to attend and hear the speaker.  If you don’t want to eat, the speaker starts at 6:30 p.m. RSVP to  780-463-1626. The hall is at 11104-65th Avenue.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Starwood opens new design center

‘Gardens change over time’

LAUREN SHINER, CARROLLWOOD

Q: How long have you been gardening?

A: Thirty years — since I grew pothos ivy in a bottle in my dorm room.

Q: Who or what have you learned the most from as a gardener?

A: The Internet has been the best source of information regarding what should work in our area, especially the University of Florida IFAS site. But it is still necessary to trial test plants to make sure they work in this micro-climate. My design inspiration comes from Gertrude Jekyll, a famous English designer who specialized in lush color gardens, although I love the modern simplicity of designs I see in Architectural Digest on the rare occasions they focus on the landscaping.

Q: What are your go-to plants?

A: My go-to plants are white fountain grass, African iris, bush daisy, rosemary, thryallis, beach sunflower, confederate jasmine, old garden roses, caladiums, pentas, milkweed (for the butterflies) and loropetalum as a small tree.

Q: What was your biggest gardening mistake?

A: Gambling with tropicals, even though I knew a bad freeze will kill them. When the big freeze happened, I took the opportunity to replant with all food crops: vegetables, citrus, peach and apple trees. It’s nice to know that my work in the garden is also going to repay me later, and with the right layout, look good, too.

Q: What are some challenges you face in your garden?

A: Nematodes — two kinds. Because of them, I can’t grow carrots in the ground. I tried solarizing and only ended up killing all the worms, which turned my topsoil to dust. Also, when I heard about colony collapse disorder, I decided to keep bees (and they really help the yields in my veggie garden). The problem is how hard it is to find a pesticide that doesn’t kill the bees, too. All I’ve come up with is neem oil sprayed at night for the citrus, the bacteria bacillus thurengensis (BT) for the tomato/corn worms and boric acid for the ants. It’s not as perfect as the commercial pesticides, but I’m not hurting the threatened honeybees, at least. Learning to share my food with the worms, grasshoppers and other pests has been a big challenge.

Q: What is your best piece of advice for fellow gardeners?

A: Many people plant their garden and think, “OK, done.” Gardens change over time, and not always for the best. The key is to plant with a three- to five-year timeframe in mind. You want it to look better with age, not worse. Set up micro-irrigation for drought conditions because it doesn’t fall under the restrictions, and you won’t lose your investment. Sod is cheap to replace; ornamentals are not. Always plant hardy plants in the front of the house because that is what the public sees. If you plant all tropicals and you get a freeze, it’s a mess you have to live with until summer. You can always interplant herbaceous perennials, like pentas and porter weed, among the evergreens.

Your Garden: Go native when choosing low-care plants

Dear Roger: I can’t afford to water my plants extensively in summer. So daylilies and hostas are out. Can you suggest plants that would work well in a low-maintenance, xeriscape garden in our area?- Pressey, Fayetteville.

Dear Pressey: Xeriscaping means landscaping with plants that require little watering, fertilizing, mulching or other care beyond what they get from nature.

Generally, native plants are considered first choices. But I would push for plants from anywhere on earth as long as they fit the low-care, low-water requirement and are exceptionally beautiful.

Saving water is an increasingly important issue in urban areas throughout the nation.

Here’s a list of plants that will grow reasonably well with very little attention and watering in our gardens:

Dogwoods are the finest of our native trees. They need good care to become established. Do not plant deeply or you’ll kill the tree. Plant shallow and mulch well.

Keep dogwoods watered well the first two years after planting, and you can expect to give them no more care thereafter, except to water if there is a severe drought in hot weather.

Magnolias are excellent in our region and are among the first trees to bloom in spring. I’m not talking about the summer-blooming, large-leaved evergreen magnolia that’s native here. The native magnolia has fairly high maintenance requirements because it constantly drops leaves. It can require very large amounts of water for three or four years to become established. And it takes so much water from nearby plants that they often grow poorly.

Instead, I’d grow the tulip or saucer magnolias, as they’re often called. These are more specifically calledMagnolia soulangeana(a hybrid from denudata),Magnolia nigra(the small tree with purplish flowers found in many older gardens),Magnolia denudata(tall tree, pure white flowers),Magnolia sprengeri(huge flowers like white or pink basketballs on bare branches),Magnolia salicifolia,Magnolia stellataandMagnolia kobus, to name a few.

Like azaleas, camellias and dogwoods, these Oriental magnolias must be watered weekly the first year after planting and must be given good soil and a mulch.

Azaleas, you’ll notice again, are not native. At least not the evergreen or semievergreen ones we usually grow. They’re from Asia. But they are among the loveliest of our shrubs.

Don’t bury the roots of azaleas. Put the plant on top of your prepared soil and pull up soil and leaves, mulch or compost around the root ball. Water well and frequently the first year, or two years if the plants you start with are small. After that, the plants will need water only in the hottest part of summer when there is no rain for more than 10 days.

Camellias, also from Asia, are choice plants for shady and partly shaded spots. One generally thinks of camellias as needing large amounts of water. But I’ve found that they are drought-tolerant in my garden, as long as they are not exposed to full sun. Plants in full sun will need much more water to survive and won’t always have good leaf color.

Native azaleas are seldom used in our landscapes, but many are more drought-tolerant, cold-resistant, colorful and showy when in bloom than the Asian types. We often fail to value what is beautiful that is closest to us. Azaleas bred from our native types are available in many colors of yellow and orange that cannot be found in the Asian azaleas.

One of my favorite, easy-to-grow natives is the box sandmyrtle, whose formal name isLeiophyllum buxifolium. Dr. Bruce Williams, a founder of the Cape Fear Botanical Garden, gave me a small rooted cutting of one many years ago. I planted it in a bed with some azaleas. Given the same care as the evergreen azaleas, it has developed into a 2-foot-tall by 2 1/2-foot-wide shrub of great beauty. I have given it no care except occasional watering.

Sunday Homes: Gardens by the bay

Follow the stone walkway to the secret garden  just off of the master bedroom

Follow the stone walkway to the secret garden just off of the master bedroom


The Smith's dining room takes in the yard via a wall of plate glass windows.

The Smith’s dining room takes in the yard via a wall of plate glass windows.


The evening glow of the sunset lights Sid and Cissy Smiths' home on a recent evening.  The extra large lot is filled with lush landscaping and gorgeous trees.

The evening glow of the sunset lights Sid and Cissy Smiths’ home on a recent evening. The extra large lot is filled with lush landscaping and gorgeous trees.


The oversized pool is just right for the Smiths' large lot.

The oversized pool is just right for the Smiths’ large lot.


A wonderful spot to sit, rock and enjoy the pool and yard views, especially at dusk.

A wonderful spot to sit, rock and enjoy the pool and yard views, especially at dusk.


The Smiths' living area is bright and colorful with large windows to take in the gorgeous grounds.

The Smiths’ living area is bright and colorful with large windows to take in the gorgeous grounds.


A flagstone walkway leads the way around the back of the home to the secret garden and all beautiful points in between.

A flagstone walkway leads the way around the back of the home to the secret garden and all beautiful points in between.


The spaciousness of the Smiths' yard allows for large beds with mature trees among the hedges and flowering plants with plenty of room to enjoy the lawn.

The spaciousness of the Smiths’ yard allows for large beds with mature trees among the hedges and flowering plants with plenty of room to enjoy the lawn.



Step inside the gate and be surprised at the size of the Smiths’ lush garden. The pool with large decks surrounded by many blooming plants is the first thing one sees. Angel statues stand watch over the pool while banana trees lead to Fort Smith, the children’s playground on stilts at the back of the yard. Numerous seating areas provide a place for conversation, from the covered patio for outdoor dining, to the swings and gliders by the large rock fountain, to the built-in benches under the pool decks. The garden is lined with a large variety of plants, statues, outdoor lanterns and blooming pots. A sign on the fence points to a secret garden outside the master bedroom. Two guest houses face the pool and provide a beautiful respite for their children, grandchildren, and many guests. On cool evenings an outdoor fireplace is the perfect place to relax and listen to the soothing sounds of the fountain.

Their garden and four others will be open for tours from noon to 6 p.m. today.

Why do you love your home?: We love our home because of the beautiful neighborhood with all the trees. It is a bright, comfortable home with plenty of large windows looking out to the patio and pool. It is perfect for our relaxed, casual lifestyle with family and friends.

Why did you decide on this home: Back in 1973 my husband thought this was a place where he could spend the rest of his life and be very happy.

Best home project I’ve completed here and why: Living here for so long, there’s been so many projects, but opening the wall separating the kitchen and den, and putting in large plate glass windows in the dining room have been a couple of our favorites.

Something no one knows about my home: All the brick yard trim in the front came from the old Luby’s cafeteria on Alameda.

A home item I can’t live without: The outdoor shower….absolute heaven to take a shower in the morning under the banana trees and listen to the cooing of the doves.

My home’s best feature: the large back yard, patio, and decks.

A home I’d love to see inside: The White House at Christmas.

Three words that describe my home: Comfortable, inviting and fun.

A funny story about my home: During a Young Life gathering here, the kids were jumping around to “Brown Eyed Girl” and broke 10 floor joists in the living room.

Unannounced guests would find my home: Decorated for all the holidays, a candle burning and our dog, Chico, stretched out on the couch.

This item would never make it through the front door: Large, mounted UT longhorns.

I can’t believe I put this in my home: My husband’s six-foot-wide mounted UT longhorns.

Worst home advice I ever received: Don’t take up the carpet, the wood floor isn’t that nice.

Best home advice I ever received: Take up that carpet, and refinish this beautiful pecan flooring.

I will always have space in my home for: Holiday decorations, beach towels, pool toys, swimsuits, dogs, kids, books, and pictures of the family.

My home can never have too many… kids swimming in the pool.

Send home nominations to Eddie Seal at eddieseal@gmail.com or 688-0887.

The Gardener Within: Transplant trees and shrubs in cool fall weather

“The right plant for the right place” is a gardening maxim. For that reason and many others, trees and shrubs sometimes need to be moved. These cool fall days are the time to do it. Plants won’t be stressed by heat, and they’ll have all winter to develop a new root system and get ready for spring.

Moving a tree or shrub isn’t that hard to do, and we don’t do it often enough in my opinion. Many plants survive but don’t thrive in less-than-ideal conditions. And just like people, they’ll never reach their full potential until they’re placed in an environment to which they’re better suited.

Young and generally healthy shrubs and trees are the best candidates for a successful move. The smaller the shrub or tree, the quicker it will recover, and the easier it will be to handle. Anything more than roughly 8 feet tall or with a trunk diameter over 2 inches becomes unmanageable without special equipment.

You’ll have the most success transplanting trees with compact, fibrous root systems, such as maple, pin oak, ash and shrubs such as azalea and hydrangea. Small feeder root systems recover much faster than, say, the coarse roots of the magnolia or hawthorn. If you have the time, pruning the roots a year before the move will reduce the overall root zone and give young feeder roots a chance to develop and grow inside the root ball zone. That also makes it easier to dig up and easier on the plant to recover.

With chalk or spray paint, draw a circle around the plant 12 inches in diameter for every inch of tree trunk diameter. Dig along the outer edge with a sharp spade, slicing through the roots. If you’re encountering a lot of tough, heavy roots, you’re too close to the trunk — move your trench out a bit. Alternatively, try and plan your root pruning for the dripline. That’s the area on the ground under the tips of the branches. And if all else fails, remember: The more roots you can dig up during the removal process, the better the chance of a successful transplant to the new location, assuming all other conditions are good.

Prune the roots. Dig the ball. When it’s time to move your plant, cut a trench along the root ball line, working progressively deeper as you go. Shave away excess soil as you work, but don’t remove any more roots. Have a helper tip the plant back while you undercut the final roots holding it in place.

Wrap up and move out. Cut a piece of untreated burlap four times the diameter of the root ball, tip the plant over and slide the burlap under the ball as far as possible. Tip the plant the other way and pull the burlap through so the root ball rests on the burlap, then fold and wrap the material around the root ball and pin in place with 2-inch-long flathead nails. To safely remove the root ball from the hole, slip a wooden 2-by-12 underneath it and slide the plant up and out onto a heavy plastic tarp. Using the tarp, pull or carry the plant to its new location. Avoid lifting by the trunk or stems; that will break off roots and knock soil loose.

Replant. Dig the new planting hole no deeper than the root ball is high and three times wider. Set the plant in place with the top of the ball slightly higher than the surrounding soil level (to account for settling). Open the burlap and tuck it into the hole so it won’t wick water away from the roots. It will eventually decompose. Backfill the hole halfway with soil, tamp firm and fill with water. Let the water drain, finish backfilling and build a “saucer” of soil around the tree to direct water down to the roots. Water again.

Post-op recovery. Spread a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch over the area in the saucer. Don’t fertilize or prune for the first couple of years to allow the plant to settle in gradually to its new home. But keep up with watering, especially through the first summer. Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to let the water sink slowly to the roots. Once the plant has made it through the first summer after relocation, it should be fine on its own after that.
    
Joe Lamp’l, host of “Growing a Greener World” on PBS, is a Master Gardener and author. For more information visit www.joegardener.com.
 

Home and garden event calendar

Calendar of events relating to homes and gardens.

Orchid Meeting: Virginia Orchid Society meets for a talk, “Orchids of Western Australia” by Thomas Mirenda, 2 p.m. today at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 1800 Lakeside Ave. Free. (804) 746-4313.

Fine Arts Flowers: Exhibit of floral designs by more than 75 garden clubs paired with masterworks from the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts collection opens with gala preview Wednesday, continues during museum hours through Oct. 28, and features lectures and other special events at the VMFA, 200 N. Boulevard. Free; fees for special programming and events. Visit www.vmfa.museum/FAF/ for detailed schedule and reservation info. (804) 340-1405.

Holly Society Meeting: Holly Society of America’s 65th annual meeting takes place Thursday-Saturday at Holiday Inn-West, 2000 Staples Mill Road. Speakers include Maymont’s Peggy Singlemann, Virginia Tech extension agent Sue Houck, the National Arboretum’s Mark Roh and others. Also scheduled are bus tours to Monticello, Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, Maymont and Sandy’s Plants. For schedule and reservation info, visit www.hollysocam.org.

Rain Gardens: Chesterfield County Office of Cooperative Extension offers a seminar on creating a rain garden, 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturdayat Midlothian Library, 521 Coalfield Road. Free; to register, call (804) 751-4401.

Lewis Ginter Programs: Increase your gardening know-how with programs at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, 1800 Lakeside Ave.:

  • Tuesday-Nov. 6: Wedding Floral Design, 6:30-8:30 p.m. on five Tuesdays, $225-$280.
  • Saturday: Small Flowering Trees for Home Landscapes, 9 a.m.-noon, $30-$41.
  • Saturday and Nov. 3: Basic Botany for Gardeners, 9 a.m.-noon on two Saturdays, $60-$82.

Registration required for all programs (unless noted). To register or for course information, visit www.lewisginter.org or call (804) 262-9887, ext. 322.

Herbal Wreath-Making Class: Construct a fresh wreath made with materials from Lavender Fields Herb Farm, 10:30 a.m.-noon Saturday, Nov. 3, Nov. 17, Nov. 23 or Nov. 24 at the farm, 11300 Winfrey Road, Glen Allen. $25 class, $20 lunch; advance registration and payment required. www.lavenderfieldsfarm.com or (804) 262-7167.

Rose Society Meeting: Consult with rosarians on rose care and culture at a meeting of the Richmond Rose Society, 2 p.m. Oct. 28 at Children’s Hospital of Richmond at VCU, 2924 Brook Road. www.richmondrosesociety.com.

Williamsburg Garden Tours: Guided, themed tours offer a glimpse into 18th- and 20th-century gardens in Colonial Williamsburg; included with admission; some require reservations. (800) HISTORY (447-8679).

  • Mondays through Nov. 12: “Tall Treasures,” look at notable trees, 9:30 a.m.
  • Wednesdays and Thursdays through Oct. 31: “Garden Tour at Bassett Hall,” tour of the 1930s-’40s era Rockefeller gardens, 2 p.m.
  • Thursday: “Meet the Gardener,” garden QA with volunteers, 10:30 a.m.

Pat Row

SF festival highlights urban design ideas

Shortly after San Francisco’s Urban Prototyping Festival opened Saturday, the garden planter-slash-urinal wasn’t getting much business, but there was a sizable crowd watching the graffiti war unfold and kids were lining up to bounce on the LED-lit hopscotch.

“The kids are really intrigued by these games,” said Stephen Popper as he watched his son and daughter fight over who got to use the hopscotch next. Five-year-old Hannah was winning. Nearby, four graffiti artists were quietly spray-painting colorful designs on 6-foot-tall panels.

The family hadn’t stopped by to visit the urinal yet.

“My son likes anything involving planting. He really liked the fruit fence,” Popper said, referring to the sacks of fruit trees attached to a chain-link fence around the corner from the hopscotch mat. “He wants to do that on the fence at his school now.”

Perhaps only in San Francisco, and only at a street party with “urban prototyping” in the name, could hopscotch, graffiti, fruit fences and garden-style urinals share space. They were among the 23 projects spotlighted at the festival, which was part art installation and part urban experimentation.

The festival began this summer in Singapore, and Saturday’s event was the first stop in the United States, taking up three blocks near Fifth and Mission streets. The idea is to create a “living laboratory” of inventions that transform public spaces and make them useful, educational, interactive or just plain fun.

Turning problems around

Take the garden urinals, for example. The urinals are attached to planters, and the wastewater is filtered and used to water trees or flowers. The idea – which the designers call a “PPlanter” – is to take an urban problem like public urination and turn it into something beneficial.

Down the street was an audio installation that the inventors described as “data sonification,” which is basically using sound as a means of representing data. The inventors mounted 19 speakers to a chain-link fence, each speaker representing a neighborhood in the city. Each speaker issued a sound – like the tides from San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean, recorded throughout the day – unique to its neighborhood.

“Hopefully, it just makes you stop and listen to what’s going on in the city,” said Emily Shisko, a San Francisco musician who co-designed the installation. “This could be another means of getting information across, but in a way that’s totally enjoyable.”

Shisko’s project was meant to be both educational and entertaining, while others were more practical – like a spotlight to shine on people using crosswalks at night, or “urban parasols” made of renewable materials to provide shade and shelter.

Many ideas clearly were sprung from the first urban prototype hit: the parklet. These miniparks that transform parking spaces into green zones have blossomed all over San Francisco and, now, the rest of the country. At Saturday’s festival, garden- and park-themed installations were a common sight.

“There are so many opportunities to make the city more livable,” said Mona El Khafif, an urban design professor at California College of the Arts and one of the people behind a project called the “10-mile garden.”

Their proposal is to plant gardens in the streets in front of fire hydrants, which are currently wasted space, El Khafif said. If every fire hydrant in San Francisco had a garden in front of it, all of that space added together would be 10 miles of extra greenery in the city, she said.

Replanting if needed

And if there happens to be an emergency requiring use of a hydrant with a garden in front of it? “The trucks can just run over the garden,” she said. “We’ll replant if we have to.”

But not all urban inventions need take their cues from parklets, festival organizers said. “We don’t need more parklets, we need more parklet-like ideas,” said Alex Michel, director of the 5M Project, which hosted the festival.

“So many people have ideas for civic participation, but there’s nowhere for them to take their ideas,” Michel said, walking among the installations. “This is like a pinball machine. Ideas are bouncing all around here.”

Erin Allday is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. E-mail: eallday@sfchronicle.com

Chinese philosophy in garden design

Posted on October 21, 2012, Sunday

LOOKING at the development of garden design and landscaping in Sarawak over the last two decades, we have seen the industry grow by leaps and bounds.

AT PEACE: Chinese-style gardens are designed to enable meditation.

Last week we focussed on Japanese ideals in garden design and this week we turn to China and its long history of landscape art.

Feng shui

These two words are direct translations of wind and water in Mandarin. The purpose of using feng shui in the garden is to create harmony. Those under the influence of Taoism believe in a cosmic energy called chi – moving air or wind that is present everywhere.

According to this line of thought, it is of utmost importance to have chi flowing smoothly through the garden or house. This will apparently affect the inhabitants in terms of health, success, happiness and prosperity.

The art actually lies in influencing the flow of this cosmic energy to maximise the good fortune it imparts. Introducing some changes in the setting will allow for a smooth flow of chi. To an experienced feng shui practitioner, any space can be regarded as divided into eight sectors, following the earth’s magnetic or geological north and the rest southeast and west.

These techniques can be used in landscape design by controlling the colour, size, height, sound and shape of the plants, hardscape materials and the shape of the footpath or pool.

A friend named Dr Chang told me that having a pool of water in the east is less desirable for the younger generation, while in the west it is bad for the elders. This is because wind can create waves that will affect one’s health.

According to traditional beliefs, no garden can have good feng shui unless it contains water. Water attracts wildlife into the garden, from birds to beetles, which benefits the feng shui.

It is also a common belief that a house situated directly at the junction of a road is not ideal. Likewise, any main door that opens to the north directly is not good. This is probably because in China, the cold Siberian winter wind would blow south into the house.

Special features

My travels to various cities in China were enriching opportunities to learn garden design styles there. Chinese gardens are filled with cultural symbols and distinctive styles that reflect Chinese civilisation.

The earliest form of gardens were probably in the Shang (1600 to 1046 BC) and Zhou (1046 to 256 BC) dynasties. Animal farms were located around human dwellings, with natural landscapes of streams and hills. Such a place would have incorporated earth terraces, lakes or ponds with fish and lotus or water lilies.

Around 500 BC, man-made gardens would have been popular. The Suzhou Terrace of Gusu Hill is a beautiful example. This structure incorporated verandas and corridors.

ESSENTIAL ELEMENT: Bamboo is a must in Chinese-style gardens as it symbolises elegance and refinement.

By the Qin (221 to 206 BC) and Han (206 BC to 220 AD) dynasties , private residences began to build gardens. This saw the development of the art of landscaping with themes for garden layouts, designs, and scenes. In the early days, gardens were imitations of natural scenery, reproducing natural hills and streams.

During the Song dynasty (960 to 1279), landscaping began to section large gardens into various themes for different zones. The design style pursued the essence of nature with added spiritual and social functions. Gardens provided places for meditation and refinement. Aesthetic standards were perfected through large-scale garden designs and buildings with artwork, inscriptions and calligraphy.

By the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644) and especially Qing dynasty (1644 to 1911), social life began to change. More refined garden developments occurred with styles for practical use, as gardens became a necessary daily living environment. It was then that many famous buildings and masterpieces were built leading to true perfection in landscape art.

Classical Chinese gardens advocate natural settings to reproduce nature for inner beauty. As such, many gardens paid close attention to the use of scenery for appropriate arrangement of physical features. By 17th century, Chinese gardens, although man-made, were the very essence of nature.

A pivotal guideline for Chinese landscape design is actually based on the famous Taoist concept of letting things take their own course. This line of landscaping was further enhanced by Laozi and Zhuangzi and continues even now.

Thematic ideas for gardens originated from Confucian teachings of balanced living. However, Taoist teachings with a belief in deities together with the once foreign teachings of Zen and Buddhism also left a remarkable influence in the development of Chinese garden art.

Essential plants

Bamboo symbolises elegance and refinement in Chinese culture. Poet Su Shi once said: “While one can live without meat, one can’t live without bamboo.”

Other meaningful plants include pine, plum, chrysanthemum, beech, ginkgo, lotus and day lily.

If you compare European and Chinese gardens, you’ll realise there are two extremes. Europeans preferred to pursue artistic perfection at the sacrifice of nature by removing hills and obstacles to create level fields for straight rows of plantings and built fountains. Chinese landscapers would imitate nature in an artistic way. The idea is to create places to find joy in nature and attain mental balance.

I hope this has given you an idea of the history of Chinese landscape development. We will examine these concepts more in future.

Happy gardening. Do send me an email if you have any questions or comments.