I just asked my neighbor Kathy Simpson, KMS Gardens and Design owner and a landscape designer, to share some gardening tips. In the past, she told me not to be afraid to test a little of what I like. That gave me confidence to try new ideas.

KMS Gardens and Desings (http://www.kmsgardensanddesign.com)

1) What is your favorite perennial for Chicago shaded areas?
Brunnera macrophylla “Jack Frost”, common name is Jack Frost Siberian Bugloss. This plant always looks good, with a variegated leaf and pretty blue “forget-me-not” type blossoms in late spring. It is a tough plant and can handle some sun, but does just fine in woodland areas. It has a slightly hairy leaf that deters pests; no slugs or rabbits to deal with!

2) What is your favorite perennial for Chicago lots with a lot of exposure?
Geranium “Rozanne”, or Rozanne Cranesbill. This plant has periwinkle blooms that keep coming all season. It does a beautiful job spilling onto a walkway or over a wall.

It can handle a bit of shade and likes a well drained soil. Rabbits seem to ignore it and it can grow into a lovely 15-20″ mound by the end of the season.

3) What is one piece of advice you offer those testing their green thumb?
Don’t be afraid to try new plants as long as you have done your homework about the cultural needs of the plant and are realistic about the conditions in your garden. The sustainable and smart mantra is “the right plant for the right place”.

This is perfect timing since I try to plant my parents’ city garden before Mother’s Day. Ironically, one of her client’s lived down the street from my parents’ home on Roscoe. We also need to do some work on our own green space.

In the past, I relied on a lot of annuals. I’m transitioning to more perennials to be lower maintenance (time and money). I’ve followed more creative examples of professional landscape architects and designers I admire such as my neighbor Kathy.

What inspires you?

Happy gardening.

From the archive: How I try to improve our garden

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TAVARES — Offering tips for growing just about anything under the sun, this weekend’s Central Florida Landscape Garden Fair will help area residents figure out how to make better use of open space.

The free garden event from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday will feature expert guest speakers focusing on a variety of garden and landscape topics including native plants, edible plants, geocaching and more both days. Gardening exhibitors specializing in landscaping, gardening, irrigation, fertilizer and composting also will be on hand to answer questions and sell their products. Master gardeners will be stationed at six garden spots to answer gardening questions.

“The stations selected for this year’s festival are some of the most popular in the garden,” said Brooke Moffis, residential horticultural agent for the Lake County Extension Service.

The third-annual fair will take place at the Lake County Agricultural Center, 1951 Woodlea Road.

Food vendors with Greek favorites and barbecue will satisfy hungry appetites and children’s activities will include a seed-necklace craft area and a garden passport that youngsters can use to visit six gardening spots.

After visiting each garden, they can exchange the completed passport for a free meal voucher from Chick-fil-A in Mount Dora. Children up to 16 will have access to all areas of the garden including the children’s garden, which features a butterfly greenhouse, a five-senses garden and a mother-goose maze.

“We want to inspire youth to be good stewards of the land and want to get them in touch with nature,” Moffis said.

Since 1994, Discovery Gardens has been nestled on more than 4 acres behind the ag center and features 20 themed gardens, including a string of lush courtyards and six specially designed children’s gardens.

Visitors will get ideas as they stroll through the tropical-shade garden featuring bromeliads, gingers, palms and bird of paradise. There also are cottage, oriental and rose gardens. The hydroponics area is a plus for food growers. The butterfly house, with live butterflies and nectar plants, is also popular.

On Saturday, Teresa Watkins, a recognized leader on “environmentally friendly” landscapes, will give a talk at 10 a.m. Steve Earls will demonstrate square-foot gardening at 11 a.m. Tom MacCubbin will speak on with edible landscapes at 1 p.m. Master gardener Anne Keller will teach a class on geocaching at 2:30 p.m. and Juanita Popenoe, Lake County cooperative extension service director, will speak about alternative fruit crops at 3 p.m.

On Sunday, Karina Veaudry will speak about native plants at 11 a.m. Moffis will speak at 1:30 p.m. on hot plants that have cool looks. Christina Miller, Mount Dora water-conservation specialist, will speak about how to save rainwater in barrels that may be used to water plants both days.

For more information, go to bit.ly/1kpJQIG or call 352-343-4101.

Several weeks ago, I was in a big box store and noticed that the gorgeous orchids for sale were flying off the shelves while the traditional pretty potted Easter lilies were sitting there. I suspect that many of these orchids were destined to be gifts for someone special.

The owners of gifted orchids are often orchid novices. They are faced with the dilemma of what to do with a beautiful orchid after it stops flowering. Orchids have the reputation of being hot house plants that need to be pampered. In fact, many types of orchids are easy to grow, and novice owners can save their gifts from an untimely demise with just a little knowledge.

While some orchids are fussy about temperature and light, the ones typically sold in big box and grocery stores are Phalaenopsis orchids. Phalaenopsis orchids, also known as moth orchids, are considered low light orchids and can be grown easily in the home. However, “low light” is a relative term. They still need a good amount of light and will do best in an east-facing window. You can also situate them in a southern- or western-facing window, but they will need the protection of a sheer curtain to block them from direct sunlight.

The Phalaenopsis orchids do not need the warm temperatures of a greenhouse. The temperatures that keep us happy indoors will keep them happy too.

When it comes to potting mix and watering, Phalaenopsis orchids, as well as other orchids, are a bit finicky. Orchid growers each have their preferred mixes. Generally, the mixes should drain quickly but also retain some water for good root growth. Orchid potting mix ingredients may include fir bark, tree fern, sphagnum moss, perlite, lava rock and other materials.

Many of the mass market Phalaenopsis orchids come planted in potting mixes that consist mostly of fir bark. It fits the requirements of being fast draining while holding some moisture, but bark-based mixes tend to break down with time. As fir bark gradually decomposes, it becomes a finer and finer texture.

The broken down bark holds more moisture and nutrients, but also does not allow the roots to get as much air as needed. That is when you need to repeat . Local orchid experts tell me that most orchids planted in fir bark will need to be repotted at least every two years. If you don’t, the roots will start to rot and the plant will die.

I have six miniature orchids sitting on the sill of my east-facing kitchen window. Because orchids like some humidity, I have them sitting on a bed of moist pebbles in window-box trays. Occasionally, one of my orchids bloom, providing me with a great reward in return for little effort.

— Marianne C. Ophardt is a horticulturist for Washington State University Benton County Extension.

As spring slowly starts, many gardeners cannot wait to soak up the springtime sun and get their hands dirty in the garden. Such excitement is not just good for gardeners, but can benefit the garden in the months to come as well.

Early spring is a great time to get a head start on the gardening season. Even if gardening season is still around the corner, completing the following projects can ensure your garden gets off on the right foot.

Clear debris

One of the best things you can do for your garden as winter winds down is to clear it of debris. Winter can be especially harsh on a landscape, and gardens left to the elements are often filled with debris once spring arrives. Dead leaves, fallen branches, rocks that surfaced during the winter frost, and even garbage that might have blown about in winter winds can all pile up in a garden over a typical winter. Clearing such debris likely won’t take long, but it’s a great first step toward restoring the garden before the time comes to plant and grow the garden once again.

Examine the soil

Soil plays a significant role in whether a garden thrives or struggles. Examining the soil before the season starts can help gardeners address any issues before they plant. Ignoring the soil until a problem arises can turn the upcoming gardening season into a lost opportunity, so test the soil to determine if it has any nutrient or mineral deficiencies. This may require the help of a professional, but if a problem arises, you might be able to adjust the acidity or alkalinity of the soil and still enjoy a successful gardening season.

Another way to examine the soil is less complex but can shed light on when would be a good time to get back to work. Reach into the soil and dig out a handful. If the soil quickly crumbles, you can start preparing for gardening seasoning. But if the soil is still clumped together, it needs more time to dry out before you can begin your prep work.

Initiate edging

Edging is another task gardeners can begin as they get ready for the season. Edge plant and flower beds, but be sure to use a spade with a flat blade or an edger designed to edge flower beds. Such tools will cut deep enough so grass roots that may eventually grow into the flower bed are severed. Depending on how large a garden is, edging can be a time-consuming task, so getting a head start allows homeowners to spend more time planting and tending to their gardens once the season hits full swing.

Fight weeds

Though weeds likely have not survived the winter, that does not mean they won’t return once the weather starts to heat up. But as inevitable as weeds may seem, homeowners can take steps to prevent them from turning beautiful gardens into battlegrounds where plants, flowers and vegetables are pitted against unsightly and potentially harmful weeds. Spring is a good time to apply a pre-emergent weed preventer, which can stop weeds before they grow. Though such solutions are not always foolproof, they can drastically reduce the likelihood of weed growth.

Though gardeners might not be able to start planting their gardens in late winter or early spring, they can still get outside and take steps to ensure their gardens thrive once planting season begins. 

The bloom on the potted plant that you got for Easter may already be fading. With some care, you may be able to enjoy that plant for years to come.

I talked to Teresa Buchanan, the garden center manager at Lockwood’s Greenhouses, which is located at 4484 Clark St. in Hamburg. She had great tips about how to care for various plants.

Some, such as hyacinths, tulips and lilies, can be transplanted into your garden; they should come back, year after year. With calla lilies, which aren’t true lilies, it is more convenient to just keep them in the pot, rather than transplant them into your garden; you have to dig up calla lily bulbs in the fall, anyway. Azaleas need to spend a little time outside, but treat them like a houseplant, during the winter. Spring mums might rebloom in the fall, but will not overwinter.

Hyacinths, tulips and

daffodils

You can transplant hyacinths, tulips and daffodils into your garden, but wait until the fall.

When the flowers on your potted plant are done, cut off the flower stalk and leave the plant in the pot. Put the plant in a sunny spot outside.

Buchanan warned to not cut the foliage off. The plant uses its leaves to store up energy, so it can rebloom next year. That applies, whether you have these plants in a pot or in your garden.

When the leaves turn yellow, stop watering the plant. Put the whole pot, soil and all, in a cool, dry place for the summer, and forget about it. You do not have to take the bulbs out of the soil and place them in a paper bag; that is a waste of time.

Knock the soil out of the pot and plant the bulbs in your garden, at the end of August or beginning of September. These bulbs may have been planted in a shallow pot, but when you plant them in your garden, place them approximately 6 inches below the soil’s surface.

Easter lilies, oriental lilies and Asiatic lilies

Easter lilies are those traditional white lilies with the large, fragrant trumpets. Asiatic lilies come in orange, red and pink and are not fragrant. Oriental lilies come in pink and white and are highly fragrant.

All of these can be planted as perennials in your garden and should rebloom, next year. If you plant your potted lily in the garden now, it may even bloom again, this summer.

When the flower is spent, cut it off. While the leaves are green, plant it in your garden. However deep the lily was in the pot is how deep you should plant it outside.

Calla lily

The calla lily isn’t a true lily, and will not overwinter in Western New York. If you plant calla lilies in your garden, you must dig them up in the fall and bring them inside, whether you start with a potted plant or with bulbs.

Keep it in the same pot or transplant it into a larger pot. These are shade-loving plants, so set them with your hostas. Water and fertilize the plant through the summer; it was forced to bloom for Easter and will not rebloom during the summer.

In the fall, probably around late September when the weather is in the 40s Fahrenheit, but before we get a frost, bring the pot inside. Place it in a cool, dry, dark spot and stop watering. Let the foliage die back.

In May, when the danger of frost has passed, start watering the pot and the plant will grow again. Buchanan suggested keeping it on a patio table.

“To me, that’s the easiest thing to do,” Buchanan said. “You could put it in the garden, but you’ll have to dig it up in the fall, like you do with dahlias and cannas.”

Azaleas

Keep azaleas as a houseplant. “These are florist azaleas,” Buchanan said. “They’re not for the garden at all.”

Keep them inside now, until the danger of frost has passed. At the end of May, repot them, to give them more room, and place the pot outside in the morning sun.

“Don’t allow them to dry out,” Buchanan warned. “They will die.”

Leave the potted plant outside until the temperature gets down into the 40s, then bring the plant inside. Those cool temperatures trigger the buds for the following spring. Bring the pot inside, before we get a frost.

Place the pot in a sunny window through the winter. The evergreen leaves are beautiful, and in the spring, the plant will flower again.

Easter mums

Mums that were forced for Easter can be planted in the garden and they could rebloom in late fall. These are not garden mums, so they probably will not make it through the winter.

Connie Oswald Stofko is the publisher of Buffalo-NiagaraGardening.com, the online gardening magazine for Western New York. Email Connie@BuffaloNiagaraGardening.com.

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Water is scarce and getting scarcer. Too much of the daily consumption in our watersheds is devoted to landscaping; irrigation of planted spaces is the number one use of residential water. With care, landscapes can be maintained without the waste that sends excess down the drain to the ocean. One good rule to judge a garden’s watering needs is to monitor soil moisture carefully, no matter what is planted and what the soil type may be. Here are some other handy tips:

• Deep-rooted plants such as trees, drought-tolerant natives, and other Mediterranean varieties need a deep soak once a month through the dry months, although if the weather turns foggy, they can often go much longer. The best way to tell if it’s time to water is to probe the soil and see if it still contains some moisture. Dig down with a shovel or trowel or use a specially designed soil probe to pull up a core to inspect. The soil should never be bone dry and crumble to dust, nor should it be wet enough to squeeze moisture out of. On the dry side, it’s time to water. On the soggy side, wait a few days and try again. Then use soaker hoses, low-flow sprinklers, or drip irrigation systems that deliver a small amount of water over a longer period covering the area of the drip zone. The idea is to let the water slowly travel down to the deep regions of the soil before it starts to puddle at the surface.

• Other shrubs and perennials may need water once or twice a week, but applying a thick layer of organic mulch can delay this even more. Again, take a look at what’s happening in the root zone before turning on the water. It may be useful to break up the watering schedule into two or three segments of shorter duration. This will allow the water to soak in gradually instead of running off as soon as the surface is wetted.

• Annuals grow from seed, germinating, flowering, and fruiting in a short season. Water is crucial to their early success, so start seeds in containers to get their root systems established before transplanting into the garden. Then they will need careful monitoring and watering for at least two weeks until they are established. To really acclimate them, transition to less frequent but slower water delivery over a longer time to help foster deeper root growth. Protect young plants with row covers or shade them with temporary hats of folded newspaper if the weather turns very hot or windy.

• Automatic irrigation systems can help regulate water use if carefully programmed. But as with all computer systems, they are only as good as their programmers. For more precise control of irrigation water, irrigation controllers can be fitted with sensors that sense the presence of water in the soil as well as atmospheric conditions such as relative humidity and temperature. These are readily available from local water agencies. They may even have rebate programs to offset the cost of such retrofits.

Related Links

• More Gardening columns

Virginia Hayes, curator of Ganna Walska Lotusland, will answer your gardening questions. Address them to Gardens, The Independent, 122 W. Figueroa St., S.B., CA 93101. Send email to vahayes@lotusland.org.

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MINNEAPOLIS (WCCO) – The gorgeous English garden at the St. Paul Hotel is one of the most popular in the state, and this year it celebrates a milestone 20th anniversary.

WCCO’s Edward Moody decided to ask their full-time horticulturalist Sarah Orvik how the rest of us can get our gardening started, even amid weather like we’re seeing this week.

Orvik talked a bit about ivy and how it can add the perfect background for any home garden. She also mentioned that when it starts to warm up, it’s probably safe to start planting your summer annuals around mid-May.

Orvik said that there are also some spring plants that actually perform well in cooler temperatures, such as violas and pansies. It’s important to layer your plants and flowers to ensure maximum “beautifulness,” as Moody put it.

You can get all the tips she had in the videos above and below.

Also, the hotel is doing something new for everyone. They compost their organic waste, and coming up on May 21, you can buy a 10-pound bag of their organic compost for $2. You’ll be able to buy it right in front of the hotel on Market Street.

They’re doing this in partnership with the Mulch store, and all proceeds will go toward planting flowers in Rice Park, right across the street from the hotel.

Mary Loos spent some time with local gardening expert Deby Barnhart, who is the owner of Cornell Farm, to learn some strategies for warm weather gardening.

Click the “Play Video” button to watch the story.

Garden Tools photographed by Flickr user D. Laird

PHILADELPHIA, PA – Quality garden tools and equipment don’t come cheap so protecting your investment for use year after year is important. Let’s discuss how to keep our garden gear in top shape for extended life.

Storage is the most crucial form of care for your tools and equipment. Keeping moisture out and creating a dry environment for your gear is important so be sure to stow away in a garage, shed or airtight bin. If left outdoors, wooden handles can crack, split, and splinter. Rust also becomes a huge issue for metal surfaces, so take the extra time to return items to a safe place.

Keeping your tools and equipment clean is beneficial for extended product life, too. Dirt will hold moisture causing damage to wooden features and creating a breeding ground for rust. Wipe all tools clean using a little turpentine and water and dry using an absorbent cloth.

Sharp tools are helpful tools. Visit your local hardware store and purchase a file for metal surfaces. Using one long stroke, move the flat edge of the file down the beveled edge of the blade you’re sharpening. Once at the end, you’ll want to lift the file and place it back at the opposite edge of the blade. Running the file back and forth does not continuously sharpen your blade; in fact it does nothing more than dull your file.

Blades for your weed whacker, lawn mower, and larger lawn and garden equipment can be sharpened, too. We recommend, for safety reasons, taking them to a garden center and allowing professionals to assist in the maintenance. These large blades can be extremely dangerous and injuries can be prevented for a small investment.

With the appropriate actions and a little TLC your garden gear can be helpful for many seasons.

Avant Garden Decor is a premier brand of innovative outdoor living decor, including the CobraCo Brand. From stylish planters and baskets, to flower boxes, plant stands, and fire pits, the CobraCo Brand is the outdoor entertainer’s choice for outdoor decor. Avant Garden Decor also offers Gardener’s Blue Ribbon brand of garden helpers, such as garden stakes, accessories, and various plant saucers that meet the demands of both gardening hobbyists and enthusiasts alike.Gardeners can contact Avant Garden Decor at http://www.avantgardendecor.com or 800-323-5800.

Cold weather is gone for good, and Middle Tennessee’s best gardening season has begun. Here are garden-related events, tasks and tips to keep you busy this month.

May 2 and every Friday this month: Fitness Fridays in Cheekwood Gardens, with the gates open early for visitors to enjoy circuit blasts, stroller strides, Tai Chi and yoga in the gardens led by instructors from the Green Hills YMCA. Free to Cheekwood members; regular gate admission applies for non-members. Details: www.cheekwood.org

May 3: Middle Tennessee Iris Society show will be held at Ellington Agricultural Center’s Ed Jones Auditorium. Entries admitted 7-10 a.m., judging begins at 10:30 a.m., and the show opens to the public 1:30-4:30 p.m. Details: www.middletnirisociety.org

May 3: Robertson County Master Gardeners plant salE, 408 N. Main St. in Springfield, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. or until all plants are sold. Informational classes will be held throughout the day. Details: www.rcmga.org

May 3 and every Saturday in May: Volunteer to help with weeding, planting, harvesting and general care of the Unity in Diversity Peace Garden, a learning garden on the Scarritt-Bennett campus designed to cultivate conversations about diversity and sustainability issues, and to foster individual and collective action. 1-3 p.m. Bring water, gardening tools and gloves. To learn more about the program, visit www.scarrittbennett.org.

May 10: Middle Tennessee Hosta Society plant sale with more than 300 varieties of hosta, 8:30 a.m.-2 p.m. at the Maryland Farms YMCA, 5101 Maryland Way in Brentwood. Details: www.mths-hosta.com

May 10: Master Gardeners of Davidson County hosts a cemetery tour at the historic Nashville City Cemetery, 10-11:30 a.m. Visitors will see the cemetery with plants that could be found there around 1862, and learn about the lives of some of Nashville’s famous citizens. Free and open to the public. To learn more, contact the Metro Historical Commission at 615-862-7970.

May 10: Sunflower Café Spring Market, local farmers, nurseries and artisans offering garden plants and handcrafted items. Shop, eat and drink, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. 2834 Azalea Place in Berry Hill.

May 11, Mother’s Day: Flowers from the garden or from the florist will stay fresh longer if you change the water in the vase every day.

May 17: Master Gardeners of Davidson County Urban Gardening Festival, featuring exhibitors, artisans, vendors and workshops on a wide range of gardening topics, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. at the Demonstration Garden at Ellington Agricultural Center, 5201 Marchant Drive. Admission and parking are free. Details: www.mgofdc.org

RELATED: Learn from Master Gardeners at daylong festival

May 17: Backyard Beekeeping at Warner Park Nature Center, an introduction to residential beekeeping led by D’ganit Eldar, Melissa Donahue and Nature Center volunteers, 9-11 a.m. Registration (adults only) opens Friday; call 615-352-6299 to register.

May 20: Perennial Plant Society of Middle Tennessee meets at Cheekwood’s Botanic Hall. Jason Reeves from UT Jackson Extension will speak on reliable garden plants — perennials and annuals, trees and vines — that will last for years in your garden. Refreshments at 6:30 p.m., program begins at 7 p.m. Open to the public.

In the garden

• Plant your kitchen garden with warm-season vegetables: peppers, tomatoes, okra, squash, melons, beans, cucumbers. Keep newly planted garden beds moist as seeds sprout.

• Spring-flowering bulbs may have finished blooming, but allow the foliage to remain until it has turned brown.

• Here’s a tip for tomato transplants that are already too tall: They can be planted on their sides with the top leaves above ground. Strong roots will sprout from the buried stems.

• Many houseplants enjoy spending summer outdoors. Find a shady spot, protected from strong wind, to help them acclimate to their new environment.

• Plant plenty of basil in a sunny location to use in summer recipes. Clip and use it frequently, which allows the plants to grow sturdier. Snip off flowers as they begin to form.

• Pull or dig weeds out of garden beds when they are small — and especially before they form seeds. Use extra care when you cultivate around seedlings that you’ve planted in the kitchen garden.

• If you don’t have space for a kitchen garden in the ground, plant herbs and “patio” varieties of vegetables in containers on a sunny deck or balcony. Containers dry out quickly on hot days, so you’ll need to water frequently.

• If you need to prune azaleas, do it as soon as you can after they finish flowering.

• Mulch used in garden beds slows down weed growth and helps keep the soil moist longer. Shredded leaves and composted (not fresh) grass clippings are good choices for free mulch.

• As perennials bloom and fade, deadhead the plants — clip off the dying flowers — to encourage the plants to bloom longer.

• Harvest herbs at their peak — usually just before they bloom. Use them fresh or dry or freeze them to use later.

• Divide bearded irises after they finish blooming. Cut the leaves to about five inches and lift the tubers with a spading fork. Separate the rhizomes and cut off damaged portions. Replant the rhizomes close to the soil surface, or share with gardening friends.

• Gardens and lawns need about an inch of water a week. If it doesn’t rain, use sprinklers early in the morning. Soaker hoses placed throughout garden beds are an efficient way to deliver moisture to the plants’ roots.