This is the time of year that weeds get our attention. As soon as warm weather hits, they seem to be everywhere. Then out come herbicides (weed control chemicals) aimed at killing these unwanted pesky plants in our lawns, landscapes and gardens. Unfortunately, not using these chemicals properly can injure or kill desirable plants.
Symptoms of herbicide injury vary depending on the chemical, but common culprits are the growth regulator-type herbicides used to kill broadleaf weeds, such as dandelions, in lawns. Exposure can cause leaf cupping, twisted or distorted growth, and strap-like leaves. The common growth regulator herbicides found in home garden products for lawns are 2, 4-D, MCPA, MCPP and dicamba.
These products are available in liquid or dry form. However, because of the wind, it is easy for spray to drift away from the target area. Therefore, these sprays should only be applied when there is no wind.
In our region, where it is frequently windy, this is difficult. The potential for drift can also be reduced by using large spray droplets instead of a fine mist, and applying the spray as close to the ground as possible.
The other application choice is a dry form, but desirable plants can still be damaged because of uptake of chemicals through the roots. The labels of products containing dicamba indicate that it should not be used “in the root zone of desirable plants.”
If you have trees in or adjacent to your lawn, it is almost impossible to avoid applying the chemical in the root zone. Tree root systems can extend as far as a tree is tall and even further. Garden plants situated next to a treated area could also become damaged via root uptake.
Plants can also be exposed to herbicides when grass clippings from recently treated lawns are used as mulch in the garden. Check product labels for how long you must wait before using the clippings. If you place treated clippings in a compost pile, it is best to compost them for several months before using it in the garden.
Other ways to reduce the chance of herbicide injury in the yard and garden include:
w Avoid applying herbicides in late spring and summer. They can vaporize during warm (above 80 degrees) weather and float in the air, settling down on plants a long way from the point of application and causing damage. If you plan to use liquid or dry herbicides, do it when the weather is cool in early spring or fall.
— If you have a few weeds in the lawn, spot treat them individually or dig them out. A weed popper tool works great for this.
— In landscape beds, apply a 3- to 4-inch layer of bark mulch to discourage weeds.
— In and around the vegetable and flower garden beds, use shallow cultivation or pull the weeds. I like a stirrup-type hoe with an oscillating head. Cultivate frequently to get the weeds when they are small. It is much easier.
— Marianne C. Ophardt is a horticulturist for Washington State University Benton County Extension.
• Flower seeds in open ground, including alyssum, balsam, cockscomb, late cosmos, marigold, periwinkle, portulaca and zinnia
Prune and pinch
• Remove faded flowers on annuals, roses and other flowering plants to encourage re-bloom.
• Remove blooms on caladiums for better foliage.
• Groom azaleas by cutting long suckers back to the stem. Do not prune as the plants are setting their buds.
• Continue to pinch back 3 to 4 inches, as needed, on begonias, chrysanthemums, coleus, copper plants and other leggy plants.
• Remove stems of irises and amaryllis after bloom, retaining healthy foliage. If desired, foliage of Louisiana irises may be cut back in June or when it begins to droop. Mulch rhizomes heavily to avoid sunscald, and water regularly.
• Cut poinsettias back about one-third in late June or early July to encourage branching.
• To encourage a second or third flowering of crepe myrtles, remove flowers after the first bloom has peaked. Flowering will cease when seed pods are allowed to form.
• Prune freeze damaged citrus trees. Remove water sprouts.
Fertilize
• Palms with balanced fertilizer such as 12-12-12
• Summer-blooming perennials, bulbs, tropical plants and bedding plants monthly with a granular product or twice-monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20. If using Osmocote or other timed-release granular product, apply somewhat more frequently than package label states.
• Flowering plants in hanging baskets and other containers weekly or twice monthly with a liquid fertilizer such as 20-20-20. Dilute the product for ferns.
• Shrubs, trees and vines in outdoor containers monthly with a liquid fertilizer
• Established roses monthly with commercial rose fertilizer or other recommended products
• Blackberries and strawberries with bone meal and cottonseed meal
Pest control
• If needed during humid weather, continue a regular spray program every 5 to 7 days to prevent black spot, powdery and downy mildew, and botrytis on hybrid tea roses, using a non-toxic product such as Safer Garden Fungicide. For severe fungal disease, spray with a fungicide such as Funginex every 7-10 days. Alternating weekly with a second or third fungicide is also recommended. Most old roses do not require this kind of spray. Many modern roses are disease and fungus resistant and do not require spraying.
• Cultivate soil only when foliage is dry to reduce spread of disease.
• Inspect ajuga and violets for crown rot. To control, remove diseased plants and surrounding soil. Before adding new plant material, drench soil in bed with Terraclor or a similar product according to label directions.
• Inspect roses weekly (or daily) to remove and collect in a zip-lock bag leaves affected by fungal diseases. Burn the leaves to prevent spread of disease.
• Treat chlorosis (yellowing between the veins of new foliage due to iron deficiency) in azaleas, camellias, gardenias, etc. by applying a chelated iron compound according to label directions.
• Control slugs and snails by sprinkling commercial bait at the base of tender plants.
Doing some grilling
• For the closing class in the Know to Grow spring series, a representative from Weber Grill will be demonstrating the grills today, beginning at 8 a.m. Keep in touch for the new upcoming series of classes. For information, contact Lindsey at 264-1418.
Start an orchid collection
• See hundreds of fascinating orchids submitted by members for judging and offered for sale by venders when the Acadian Orchid Society presents the 2014 Orchid Show and Sale June 14, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and June 15, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the Ira Nelson Horticulture Center, 2206 Johnston St., Lafayette.
• The orchid family is one of the largest and most diverse plant groups in the world. Judges from the American Orchid Society will be present earlier in the week to judge the array of orchids submitted by area members for the event. Members will be available to answer questions on orchid culture and to assist buyers in selecting plants. The event is free to the public.
Build a garden from the ground up, easy as 1,2,3
• Hear Tina Jumonville present a lecture on the basics of landscape design June 14, 10 a.m., at the Second Saturday Gardening Class, Green T. Lindon School Cafeteria, 603 Avenue B, Youngsville. Tina is licensed as a Landscape Horticulturist and Certified Professional by the Louisiana Nursery and Landscape Association. She is also a Master Gardener. Her presentation will cover the basics of gardening from planning site, soil, drainage and irrigation to actual garden design. For further information, please contact Jackie Carlisi at 337-277-0027 or Sherlyn Larrison at 985-513-2777.
Clean Streams series begins June 10th
• The Bayou Vermilion Preservation Association announces “Clean Streams”, a three-part free monthly lecture series for the summer. The first of three important topics to be covered is Vermilion Water Quality and How We Test It, June 10.
• The second two topics, of particular interest to gardeners, are Plants That Soak Up and Slow the Flow, July 8;, and Right Fertilizer, Right Rate, Right Time, Right Place, August 12. Reservations are requiredat BayouVermilionPreservation.org
Visit www.acadianagardening.com to search back columns. To send questions or comments, or for information on purchasing Ann’s books, e-mail ajustice@bellsouth.net
• Flower seeds in open ground, including alyssum, balsam, cockscomb, late cosmos, marigold, periwinkle, portulaca and zinnia
Prune and pinch
• Remove faded flowers on annuals, roses and other flowering plants to encourage re-bloom.
• Remove blooms on caladiums for better foliage.
• Groom azaleas by cutting long suckers back to the stem. Do not prune as the plants are setting their buds.
• Continue to pinch back 3 to 4 inches, as needed, on begonias, chrysanthemums, coleus, copper plants and other leggy plants.
• Remove stems of irises and amaryllis after bloom, retaining healthy foliage. If desired, foliage of Louisiana irises may be cut back in June or when it begins to droop. Mulch rhizomes heavily to avoid sunscald, and water regularly.
• Cut poinsettias back about one-third in late June or early July to encourage branching.
• To encourage a second or third flowering of crepe myrtles, remove flowers after the first bloom has peaked. Flowering will cease when seed pods are allowed to form.
• Prune freeze damaged citrus trees. Remove water sprouts.
Fertilize
• Palms with balanced fertilizer such as 12-12-12
• Summer-blooming perennials, bulbs, tropical plants and bedding plants monthly with a granular product or twice-monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20. If using Osmocote or other timed-release granular product, apply somewhat more frequently than package label states.
• Flowering plants in hanging baskets and other containers weekly or twice monthly with a liquid fertilizer such as 20-20-20. Dilute the product for ferns.
• Shrubs, trees and vines in outdoor containers monthly with a liquid fertilizer
• Established roses monthly with commercial rose fertilizer or other recommended products
• Blackberries and strawberries with bone meal and cottonseed meal
Pest control
• If needed during humid weather, continue a regular spray program every 5 to 7 days to prevent black spot, powdery and downy mildew, and botrytis on hybrid tea roses, using a non-toxic product such as Safer Garden Fungicide. For severe fungal disease, spray with a fungicide such as Funginex every 7-10 days. Alternating weekly with a second or third fungicide is also recommended. Most old roses do not require this kind of spray. Many modern roses are disease and fungus resistant and do not require spraying.
• Cultivate soil only when foliage is dry to reduce spread of disease.
• Inspect ajuga and violets for crown rot. To control, remove diseased plants and surrounding soil. Before adding new plant material, drench soil in bed with Terraclor or a similar product according to label directions.
• Inspect roses weekly (or daily) to remove and collect in a zip-lock bag leaves affected by fungal diseases. Burn the leaves to prevent spread of disease.
• Treat chlorosis (yellowing between the veins of new foliage due to iron deficiency) in azaleas, camellias, gardenias, etc. by applying a chelated iron compound according to label directions.
• Control slugs and snails by sprinkling commercial bait at the base of tender plants.
Doing some grilling
• For the closing class in the Know to Grow spring series, a representative from Weber Grill will be demonstrating the grills today, beginning at 8 a.m. Keep in touch for the new upcoming series of classes. For information, contact Lindsey at 264-1418.
Start an orchid collection
• See hundreds of fascinating orchids submitted by members for judging and offered for sale by venders when the Acadian Orchid Society presents the 2014 Orchid Show and Sale June 14, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., and June 15, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the Ira Nelson Horticulture Center, 2206 Johnston St., Lafayette.
• The orchid family is one of the largest and most diverse plant groups in the world. Judges from the American Orchid Society will be present earlier in the week to judge the array of orchids submitted by area members for the event. Members will be available to answer questions on orchid culture and to assist buyers in selecting plants. The event is free to the public.
Build a garden from the ground up, easy as 1,2,3
• Hear Tina Jumonville present a lecture on the basics of landscape design June 14, 10 a.m., at the Second Saturday Gardening Class, Green T. Lindon School Cafeteria, 603 Avenue B, Youngsville. Tina is licensed as a Landscape Horticulturist and Certified Professional by the Louisiana Nursery and Landscape Association. She is also a Master Gardener. Her presentation will cover the basics of gardening from planning site, soil, drainage and irrigation to actual garden design. For further information, please contact Jackie Carlisi at 337-277-0027 or Sherlyn Larrison at 985-513-2777.
Clean Streams series begins June 10th
• The Bayou Vermilion Preservation Association announces “Clean Streams”, a three-part free monthly lecture series for the summer. The first of three important topics to be covered is Vermilion Water Quality and How We Test It, June 10.
• The second two topics, of particular interest to gardeners, are Plants That Soak Up and Slow the Flow, July 8;, and Right Fertilizer, Right Rate, Right Time, Right Place, August 12. Reservations are requiredat BayouVermilionPreservation.org
Visit www.acadianagardening.com to search back columns. To send questions or comments, or for information on purchasing Ann’s books, e-mail ajustice@bellsouth.net
Before home construction begins, builders remove the topsoil and stockpile it to the side. When the house is completed, the topsoil is put back.
That provides some boost to a new yard, though not nearly enough, because all that stripping, stockpiling and respreading is disruptive. “The topsoil is not remotely the same quality as what was there before,” said Vincent Verweij, an urban forester with Arlington County Parks and Recreation.
But the biggest factor in the problem, Verweij said, is what happens to the subsoil after the topsoil has been removed.
“The builder is legally required to stabilize the subsoil to ensure the stability of the foundation, basement floor slab and walls and the grading around the house, and he does this by compaction,” he said. “But the compaction degrades the soil quality, increases its acidity, kills microbes and significantly reduces the ability of the tree roots and other roots to take hold and have access to nutrients.”
Although necessary, the compaction creates a type of soil so firm that experts call it hardpan. Mike Goatley, a turf specialist at Virginia Tech, said that trying to landscape in a yard with this type of subsoil is “like trying to grow plant materials in concrete.”
There is a solution, which requires a builder to take an additional step.
Typically, at the end of the job, a home builder engages a landscaping contractor to “scarify,” or lightly till, the surface of the compacted subsoil before spreading the stockpiled topsoil. Then the yard is sprayed with a mixture of water, green paper mulch, seed and straw. (In late fall or early spring, sod might be used instead.) The extra step would require the landscaping contractor to spread a two-inch layer of new compost and thoroughly rototill it to a depth of 4 to 5 inches before the spraying. To be effective, a high-quality compost from a reputable source, such as a local municipality’s compost-producing facility, must be used.
Breaking up the uppermost layer of subsoil greatly increases the soil’s ability to absorb rainwater, and adding the top-grade compost gives a huge boost to everything planted in the new yard.
For the past two years, Mark Carroll, a turf specialist at the University of Maryland, has run a pilot project in Howard County that enhances the yards of new houses in exactly that way. The treated yards look superior to those that did not get the extra amendments, Carroll said, and the treatments reduce lawn maintenance. They will not need fertilizer for at least three years, and very little after that, because the soil amendments have long-lasting effects, he said.
The biggest plus of Carroll’s program is not a homeowner’s enhanced landscape, however. The entire region can potentially benefit. When more rainwater is absorbed in individual yards, less runs off and eventually enters the Chesapeake Bay. When far less fertilizer is used, the quality of the water that does run off is higher because it contains very little nitrogen and phosphorus, pollutants contained in fertilizer that have negatively affected marine life in the bay as well as in streams and rivers that drain into it.
Every local jurisdiction is concerned about runoff, and Fairfax County recently took action to address it. Beginning July 1, the county will require builders and developers of new-home communities to reduce both the volume of storm water runoff and the amount of phosphorus and nitrogen in it. Soil amendment is one of 15 approved ways that can be accomplished.
What would Carroll’s soil treatment add to the cost of a typical new home in the Washington area? He estimated that rototilling and adding high-quality compost to the 5,000 square feet of exposed yard in a typical 60-by-120-foot lot would run about $2,355.
On the other hand, Carroll’s program could also save a builder money. If the volume of runoff is reduced enough, the builder might be able to install a smaller, less costly system to handle the storm water runoff that is not absorbed in each yard, suggested Jim Baish, a landscape architect and land planner in Frederick who designs land use plans for many new-home communities in the Washington area.
Of course, grass, shrubs and trees do grow in the yards of new houses with poor subsoil. And homeowners can add soil amendments to a new lawn on their own.
But, Goatley noted, it’s much more difficult to do that after the turf is established, requiring much more effort and several applications to produce results.
Katherine Salant has an architecture degree from Harvard. A native Washingtonian, she grew up in Fairfax County and now lives in Ann Arbor, Mich. If you have questions or column ideas, she can be contacted at salanthousewatch@gmail.com or via www.katherinesalant.com .
Water-wise gardening discussions have occurred for years, but the recent California drought has elevated interest in less thirsty landscaping.
My goal here is to offer water-wise landscaping ideas with an emphasis on drought-tolerant native plants. A common misconception about California native plants is, “They require little or no water.” Most are drought tolerant when they are planted in their natural range — and once they are established.
Some native plants planted outside their natural range consume large amounts of summer water to survive, like the coast redwood in Redding.
Even though lawn replacement is a growing trend throughout California, some people will not relinquish their lawns. Fortunately native plant “turfs” exist that require less water, fertilizer and labor. These include herbal lawns such as yarrow (for sun) and yerba buena (for shade), meadows of bunchgrasses (fescue, blue gramma grass, California melic grass, and purple needlegrass — the state grass), or warm-season native grasses that tolerate regular foot traffic with UC Verde Buffalograss considered best for our climate.
A California native plant is commonly defined as existing in the California floristic province before European settlement. The California floristic province is composed of biotic communities spreading from southern Oregon, down California and into Baja California. A biotic community hosts interdependent organisms that inhabit a particular region.
The Redding area contains several biotic communities: oak woodland, chaparral, mixed-evergreen forest, grassland and riparian. The plants in these communities have adapted to local climate, water availability, soils and wildlife. They exist without the intervention (watering, soil amending, pest controlling) of humans. A good way to explore these communities is to join a guided field trip with the CNPS Shasta Chapter (shastacnps.org).
An important objective of landscaping with native plants, and landscaping in general, is planting the right plant in the right location. Spending the time reading and researching increases your success and ultimately saves time and money. Start with the site analysis: size, sun/shade, soil/drainage, wet/dry, flat/sloped, deer pressure, fire threat, wind, views, and proximity to existing structures. Try to, as the CNPS suggests, “select plants that suit the site rather than to modify the site to suit the plants.”
The fun but challenging next step is deciding what plant characteristics you desire. Think about size and form; rate of growth; evergreen or deciduous; foliage texture and color; colors of flowers, berries, and seedpods; timing of flowering; scent of flowers and foliage; fall color; fire and deer resistance; attracting pollinators and other wildlife; soil/drainage and water requirements. The early design phase of the garden should emphasize hydrozoning; grouping plants with the same water requirements in the same watering zone, which will promote efficient watering.
The native plant garden is a habitat garden that inevitably attracts lizards, frogs, birds, butterflies, bees, beneficial bugs (most insects are beneficial), and other fauna. Wildlife require water, food and shelter. A steady supply of food consists of flowers and fruit emerging during the different seasons. Groupings of trees, shrubs, herbaceous perennials, annuals, groundcovers, grasses, and vines create layers of shelter for the different creatures. Natural predators keep garden pests in check and maintain a healthier, balanced garden. The habitat garden provides one with a “sense of place.”
Photo by Doug Mandel.
Pipevine swallowtail butterfly larvae or caterpillars live and feed on the leaves of the California pipevine.
Once the site information, the desired plant characteristics, and the design of the garden are established, time to choose and find the plants. Tour the local biotic communities mentioned earlier, consult enthusiastic volunteers and workers at native plant sales and nurseries, visit local residential native plant gardens and native plant community gardens (Celebration Garden at the North Valley Art League Carter House, Turtle Bay Arboretum and Botanical Gardens, and Shasta College Demonstration Garden), peruse the Sunset Western Garden Book and the Internet (shastacnps.org, laspilitas.com, and shrb.blogspot.com). Many California native plants tolerate an array of soils and climate zones, but you will succeed more often and consume fewer resources if you choose from native plants that thrive in our biotic communities.
The plants have arrived, now to plant and maintain the garden. Fall is the best time to plant; warm soil and rain will help establish a healthy root system. Spring is a distant second best time to plant natives in our “extreme” Mediterranean climate. Weed control is essential before planting. Generally, avoid amending the native soil when planting; top off with 2 to 4 inches of mulch, keeping it away from the trunk (avoids rot and disease).
Ordinarily, native plants flourish in nutrient-poor soils. Avoid fertilizing, especially during the hot months or when the plants are dormant. Mulch lowers water demand by reducing moisture evaporation from the soil. It also stabilizes the soil and root temperature, offers a finished look and hides drip irrigation. Organic mulch for woodland and forest gardens (mimics decaying leaves and branches) improves soil structure and supports biological activity. Since organic mulch quickly decomposes during our hot summers, frequent reapplication is necessary.
Photo by Doug Mandel
Native plants grow on a slope in Shasta County. Among the mix are wooly blue curls, Cleveland sage “Allen Chickering,” western redbud, deergrass, California fuchsia and interior live oak.
The first few years the native plants need babying (mulching and watering) until established. Always water to the root depth. As the plants mature, adjust the watering to cover the spreading roots. Once established, water deeply and infrequently. This promotes deeper rooting that better tolerates drought conditions. Also during drought conditions, remember to thoroughly water the California native plants throughout the normal “rainy” season. If you plant the right drought-tolerant native plant in the right spot, once established it will require little if any summer watering. A few noteworthy examples include silver bush lupine, foothill penstemon, Douglas’s iris, some buckwheat species, white sage, Cleveland sage, wooly blue curls, California coffeeberry, some ceanothus species, toyon, flannel bush, and western redbud.
One of the rewards of drought-tolerant native plant gardening is the relatively low amount of maintenance. A misconception is that they take “no maintenance.” Remove broken and crossing branches, pest-riddled or infested parts, and some faded flowers. Weeding is imperative, because weeds compete with the desired plants for resources and can harbor pests and diseases. Pest and disease monitoring is always vital, sometimes necessitating replanting. Routine and thoughtful maintenance will keep the native plant garden looking its best.
Photo by Len Lindstrand III
A California flannel bush puts on a spring flower show.
The vast majority of native plant gardens are informal, exemplified by natural spaces. If you desire a more ordered, pristine and manicured garden, a native plant garden might not be your cup of tea. Life is like a native plant garden, sometimes appearing messy and untidy. However, once the whole experience comes together, you have a sustainable, pleasurable, and gratifying native plant garden.
Native Plants runs the first Saturday of the month in the Home Garden section. Articles are provided by members of the Shasta Chapter of the California Native Plant Society. Visit www.shastacnps.org.
Efficient plumbing devices and wider use of desert landscaping has led to a marked drop in household water consumption over the past decade even as Phoenix’s population has grown, city officials say.
“I think people understand this is the desert and water is precious,” said Councilwoman Thelda Williams, a member of the Arizona Municipal Water Users Association. “We’ve (the city) had a conservation program a long time, and people have responded and use less water.”
Officials credit more-efficient devices, such as low-flow toilets, and desert landscaping for the reduction.
Research by Phoenix’s Water Service Department shows 1.5 million people lived in Phoenix in 2013, and about 375,000 homeowners had city water accounts. In 1998, about 1.2 million called Phoenix home, and 301,475 had water accounts. (Apartments and townhouses were not included in those numbers.)
Residential water use totaled 159 million gallons per day in 2013, down from 169 million in 1998, according to Gerard Silvani, a principal planner for the department.
City officials said about two-thirds of the residential water accounts belonged to single-family detached homes. It is in these homes where significant water use declined, said Douglas Frost, another principal planner.
“A lot of water use is driven by these folks,” Frost said.
Changes in landscaping
Water use dipped especially in the homes built from 2000 to 2013, Frost said. Two factors — efficient devices and fewer water-slurping lawns — appear to be the reason why people use less water, city officials said.
In the 1970s, for example, toilets used 3 to 4 gallons of water per flush, Frost said. After the early 1990s, the city’s plumbing standards were upgraded and toilets that used only 1.28 gallons of water per flush became available, he said.
The Phoenix Building Construction Code has required developers to install low-flow toilets since at least 2003, according to Phoenix Planning and Development Department officials.
Some homeowners also replaced their lawns with desert landscaping, Frost said, although tracking changes in landscaping and water use is difficult. Homeowners often change their landscape gradually, and a survey using aerial imagery found many homes don’t have either 100 percent lawns or desert landscaping, he said.
The water department found most homes have some combination of native species, imported species, rock and/or smaller plots of turf.
“While no detailed aerial imagery exists for the mid-1990s, water-use records and historical information suggest that most single-family homes were turf (grass) at that time, indicating that landscape changes account for a significant portion of the decline in water demand that has occurred since then,” Frost said.
The city continues to explore water-resources issues. This year, the City Council approved several measures, including partnerships with other entities to store water and reviewing Arizona’s groundwater laws.
Homeowner’s quest
When Susan Clark bought her Phoenix home in 2010, the house came with a yard designed for a lawn. The first year, she planted grass and her water bill skyrocketed to $200 per month.
She had a choice: Keep the lawn and pay the high water bill or kill the grass and replace the front lawn with desert landscaping. Clark chose the latter in 2011.
The project unfolded over three years. Clark and her daughter started by conducting research. They combed the pages of Phoenix Home Garden magazine for ideas. Clark, a Desert Botanical Garden volunteer, learned about how to convert a lawn. She also rode her bicycle through her neighborhood for ideas and attended classes.
“There is so much to learn about how you want it to look and what trees you want,” Clark said. “From the classes, I wanted my place to look like the Botanical Garden.”
She learned which desert plants used little water and which ones attracted bees and birds. She planted mesquite, creosote and desert willow and aloe, which require little water.
In 2012, Clark’s daughter, Angie Gaston, and grandson, Nathan, helped rip out an old tree in the front and began to shape the landscape. Her daughter helped her select which desert plants would work well.
Clark found out the irrigation system that came with the house did not fit her plan for desert landscaping, so she removed it.
When her landscape came together, Clark said, that portion of the water bill dropped to $10.
“I only had the expense of watering the lawn for a few months,” Clark said. “I cannot imagine what people spend on their lawns. For me, it’s been the best decision.”
ABERDEEN, Idaho – June 3, 2014 – Tucked in among research plots of grains, potatoes and other crops at the University of Idaho’s Aberdeen Research and Extension Center are research plots of native wildflowers and plants to test their garden and landscape appeal.
A Native Plant Field Day, the center’s sixth, is planned June 12 from 2 to 4 p.m. to give native plant lovers, nursery operators and others a look at using native plants to reduce water use and pest problems in landscaping.
Led by UI Extension horticulture specialist Stephen Love, the tour through colorful arrays of wildflower and shrub evaluation plots will feature grasses, penstemons, mints, columbines, buckwheats, Syringa and many others.
Another field day is planned the following day, June 13, in Twin Falls by the Idaho company that is taking the lead on bringing Love’s finds to gardens and landscapes. The Native Roots LLC Field Day is planned from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the company’s production farm at 2475 E. 3600 N. in Twin Falls. The farm is south of Twin Falls along old Idaho Highway 24, a half mile east of U.S. Highway 93.
Love has explored the wilds of Idaho and other western states searching for perennials and shrubs. After collecting seeds from hundreds of species to grow at Aberdeen, Native Roots is beginning to distribute plants to nurseries.
The Native Roots lineup grew from Love’s quest and his expertise as a plant breeder. The company now is selling seed of its first 30 native species products. It has 80 more products in the wings with more than 300 under development.
The company will offer visitors the chance to see its native seed production facility and wildflowers, grasses and shrubs that are suitable for home gardens and larger landscapes. Organizers will offer tips on how to create beautiful landscapes with native plants.
More information is available from UI horticulturist Stephen Love at (208) 397-4181 or Rich Drick of Native Roots at (208) 329-4790.
Bloomin’ Backyards: Sonoma County Master Gardeners, who are specially trained to help and educate home gardeners, share their own gardens in this biennial event June 8 themed to “Gardening in a Summer-Dry climate.” This year’s tour features four home gardens in the Sonoma Valley and the Sonoma Garden Park. Specialists and demonstrations will be set up at the various stops. Shuttles push off from Hanna Boys Center on Arnold Drive at West Agua Caliente Road and from Sebastiani Winery at 389 4th St. E., Sonoma. A plant sale featuring only drought-tolerant plants, a craft market, visits with The Garden Doctors and a low-water-use info center will be at Hanna Boys Center. Hours are from 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tickets are $35 in advance or $40 the day of the event. Tickets can be purchased at all Copperfields Books and Reader’s Books in Sonoma as well as at the shuttle stops. No online sales after June 6. sonomamastergardeners.org or 565-2608.
Western Sonoma County Spring Home and Garden Tour: Food for Thought, the AIDS/HIV Food Bank, hosts this tour June 8 of eight different properties in the West County with features like old growth redwoods, edible landscaping, a labyrinth and garden art. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tickets are $45 for the self-guided tour, and include a map and a guide with descriptions of all the homes and gardens. they’re available online at fftfoodbank.org or by calling 887-1647 or at Food for Thought’s offices at 6550 Railroad Avenue between First and Forestville streets in Forestville.
Rain Greywater Urban Oasis Tour: Daily Acts, a Petaluma nonprofit that promotes sustainable living, will lead a free daylong tour of five homes and gardens that use rain and graywater to support their landscapes on June 14. The tour will incude the home garden of Daily Acts Executive Director Trathen Heckman, which produces 500 pounds of food a year on a modest water budget. The tour will be co-hosted by professional landscaper and permaculture expert Damien McAnany, who also is a certified arborist with an master’s degree in environmental education and expertise in greywater systems. 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. To register call 789-9664 or visit dailyacts.org.
Resorts in Bloom: This is a chance to spend leisurely time exploring 10 different resort, winery and spa gardens in Western Sonoma County and along the Russian River. Among the choice spots are the Osmosis Day Spa’s Japanese garden in Freestone, The Applewood and Village inns, and The Inn at Occidental. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. June 14 and 15. $30 for a one-day pass. Tours can be started at any of the participating resorts. VIP reception June 13 from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. for $50 (includes a day pass. VIP Wine Tasting from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. June 14 for $50 and includes a day pass. Tickets can be purchased online at resortsinbloom.com or call 869-5977, ext. 3313.
Garden Conservancy’s Mendocino Open Garden Day: Frey Gardens, a one-acre sustainable, habitat garden in Hopland. and Digging Dog Nursery in Albion, welcome visitors. The Frey garden is filled with native plants that attract and support a variety of insects and birds, and are all planted in a naturalistic style. There also is a small vegetable garden and rustic structures from a hermit’s hut and chicken coop to a bar and whimsical gate posts. $5. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 300 Ralph Bettcher Dr. Digging Dog is at 31101 Middle Ridge Road, Albion. For directions and more information visit gardenconservancy.org.
