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The Mountain Gardener: Building dog-friendly gardens – San Lorenzo Valley Press

Gardens are for people and the pets they love.

When we get home, our pets are always happy to see us. It doesn’t matter what kind of day it has been — they are there for us. So it stands to reason that we would want to make their little corner of the world as interesting and comfortable as we can.

I’m working with several homeowners right now who have dogs in the family. Their goal is to provide a dog-friendly landscape that is beautiful and safe and has enough mental stimulation to keep them occupied during the day.

If you have a dog, here are some tips to remember.

Each dog is different. Banjo, a yellow lab owned by one of my friends, loves to play the fetching game with his favorite toy. He needs lots of exercise and objects to chew on. His yard has room to play and a box of toys he can carry around in his mouth.

I’ll need to consider several breed traits and personalities in a Ben Lomond garden that I’m updating. Sunny Boy is a timid pit bull mix who has bonded with Pippy, a cocker spaniel-dachshund mix. Along with Brandy, a beagle, they all love to tunnel and chase each other. In this garden, there will be a dog tunnel made from wire winding between plants. The plants will grow over the top and can be tied to form a roof. That way, the dogs have a fun activity that comes naturally to them.

These owners also have a very old rescue Chihuahua, Rico Suave, who receives hospice care for a brain tumor. He needs a quiet, private spot with warmth. In an out-of-the-way spot, we are going to add several flagstones to soak up the heat of the sun where he can lie down.

Creating a garden to meet your dog’s needs is the best way to avoid future problems. Most dogs prowl the perimeter of the fence to investigate noises, so instead of a plant border, consider paving stones, gravel or mulched paths along the fence line.

If your dog is a digger, like Brandy the beagle, create a special area in a shady spot where it can dig to its heart’s content. The spot can be a sand pit or earth. Entice the dog to this area by burying a favorite toy or bone. Then, your dog will return again and again to this one spot and not dig up your flower beds.

Picking the correct plants is important in backyard landscaping, especially if your dog naturally nibbles on greenery or berries. Some plants are lethal, while others can cause illness or vomiting. I was surprised to see so many common plants on the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals website that could cause problems. From carnations to primroses to geraniums, I’ll be checking the list to make sure all my dog friends are safe. Check it out here: www.aspca.org/Pet-care/poison-control/Plants?plant_toxicity=toxic-to-dogs.

Plants near paths should have soft foliage without thorns and spines, which can cause eye injury.  Brittle plants, like salvias, should be in the center, where they will be protected.

Dogs usually avoid densely planted areas, but planting in raised beds or mounds helps, too. Pieces of driftwood placed at the front of a border will discourage them from climbing through. 

Also, start with gallon or larger plant containers that can stand up to a little roughhousing.

If your dogs have already created their own path through the garden, don’t try to redirect them. Instead, turn their well-worn routes into pathways covered with a mulch of small woodchips that are easy on paws, yet large enough so they won’t cling to fur coats.

Provide your dog with an area to relieve himself. Since you have only about eight hours to water a spot after your dog goes on the lawn, it’s better to set aside a corner covered with pea gravel, cedar chips or flagstones and train your dog to go there.  It’s also a good idea to install marking posts, such as a piece of wood or a log along a path.

Dogs can get bored in a space. Dog-friendly gardeners incorporate barriers, arbors, pathways and raised beds to channel dog’s energies toward things they enjoy, like running, and away from delicate plants and veggies. They also need places that provide shade, such as trees, arbors and pergolas.

Also make sure to eliminate weeds, especially foxtails, which can get in your dog’s ears or be inhaled.

Keep these tips in mind and both you and your dog will be happier for it.

Jan Nelson, a landscape designer and California certified nursery professional, will answer questions about gardening in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Email her at janis001@aol.com, or visit www.jannelsonlandscapedesign.com to view past columns and pictures.

Winter garden can be lovely, too

I changed my mind. I’m not giving in just yet!

Cold frosty mornings are not going to discourage me and neither will the shorter days. My gardens are still appealing and full of interest this time of year and certainly worth venturing into even this late in the season. With varying layers of plant texture and rustic colors of gold, amber, brown and russet that truly define a “November” perennial garden, it’s hard to walk away unsatisfied.

Now I’m not going to say that I enjoy it as much as the July and August garden, but I’m not ready to throw in the towel and entirely abandon the garden and landscape just yet either. With a little effort now, I might even find ways to keep the garden and its surroundings quite visual throughout the entire winter.

And why not? It seems to me that our gardens and landscape decorations should have a soothing visual impact regardless of the time of year. The garden is certainly not a dead place in the winter. In fact, there is much to be found and discovered in the garden, and it’s a time of year when many plants have their moment of glory.

Buddleia (Butterfly bush) is a classic summer blooming

perennial shrub, but it is rather uncommonly thought of as a “winter specimen” plant. They do, however, develop an interesting form in winter, particularly if seed heads are left on. Many will also flower into late autumn, especially if the bush is located in a protected location.

Ornamental grasses are wildly popular these days and with good reason — they provide a spectacular fall show as they send up interestingly shaped seedpods and maintain their tall, stiff stature until the very end of winter. Some of the best varieties to look for are Festuca glauca Blue Glow, Deschampsia caepitosa Golden Dew and my favorite, Miscanthus sinensis Gracillimus.

Of course, many planters are vacant from the once vigorous display of annual flowers that blossomed so generously all summer long. While there isn’t much that can be done to replace the brightly colored annuals, I do have several planters that continue to provide garden interest the entire year.

A rather large clay pot is the home for one of the prettiest, and by far one of the slowest growing Japanese maple trees (Acer palmatum) called Shishigashira. It has dark green leaves all summer long, but in the fall the leaves turn gold and russet and are very slow in shedding them. When all the leaves have fallen, this beautiful 12-year-old specimen will unveil its elegant winter shape all winter long.

I’ll continue to search for decorative ways that’ll provide a bit of sparkle and interest to help brighten up dark winter days. Unfortunately, many outdoor decorations in our landscapes and on our homes are viewed as strictly a holiday chore that need to be taken down soon after the new year starts. On the contrary, winter garden decorations should be viewed as something that last the entire winter season. A few simple touches here and there can add gleams of warmth and cheer in otherwise “non-gardening” months.

Now is a great time before the snow falls to scour the woods and even your own backyard for plant gatherings that you can use as winter decorations. I’ve managed to collect several bushels full of laurel, boxwood cuttings, various evergreen tips, sedum, dried branches, pinecones, dogwood, ilex and artemisia. Actually, you can even use a host of spent plant materials that the cold weather has already killed and dried.

Where to begin? I’d suggest taking a good 20 steps back from the front of your house and really take a good look at it. Any design must be based on the setting of your home and it must be appropriate. Some homes look great with a soft spotlight on just a single wreath. Tie a red ribbon on it and its Christmas. Remove it after the holidays and you’re left with an elegant, wintry decoration for the season.

How about those empty urns and planters? You can create wonderful focal points in a white snowy landscape with very little effort. Imagine that giant urn that flowed so wonderfully all summer long with tuberous begonias, now filled with a clustering of red-berried Ilex verticillata. Wrap some green damp moss around the base the stems as a collar and you’ve got a beautiful winter “planting” that’ll last until spring.

Window boxes are another component of the garden and landscape that gardeners also desert during the winter months. Why not take a few moments and brighten up the outside and inside views of your window box by stuffing it full of lush garden materials!

Begin by buying blocks of florist’s foam and cut them to fit precisely inside the (soil removed) window boxes. I like to have a broad variation of colors and textures in winter window boxes so I usually start out by adding tall evergreen branches of yew, fir, juniper, white pine and even rhododendron branches.

Next, a sampling of strawflowers, artemisia, nigella, herb pods and whatever else I find that will add interest and depth to the arrangement are added. Here again, if you choose too, add a bow for the holidays or simply leave it as it is.

Making my own garland is something I wish I had both the time and patience to do. That doesn’t mean you can’t find ways to cheat a bit and still call it you’re own. I’ll buy a standard, single garland from the nursery and then customize it with cuttings from my yard.

You can really create stunning roping by incorporating braids of boxwood, pine, yew and even dogwood branches. It doesn’t take a whole bunch of time nor does one really need a lot of it. A few long strands swaggered over a white fence or wrapped around a fireplace indoors is quite nice.

The next few weeks is ample time to get the yard decorated — winter is right around the corner and isn’t it nice to be able to “garden” right through all of it.

Q.: My blueberry bushes didn’t produce fruit this season. Normally, all bushes furnish enough blueberries for my own use as well as my friends and neighbors, as they have done for more than 20 years. Instead of producing berries this year, the bushes became “trees,” more than doubling in height from April to June. I’d really appreciate any suggestions you might offer. A. Smith, Fairfield.

A.: In your letter you mentioned that a local agricultural extension service suggested a late frost this year may be the culprit as to why your blueberries did not produce fruit. I highly doubt that’s what happened. I get the feeling your bushes are in desperate need of pruning. Blueberries are generally self-shaping and only need some thinning each winter to stay healthy and productive. However, if regular dormant pruning is not followed, otherwise productive plants will, over time, become less and less “fruitful.”

Prune in late winter or early spring just before growth begins each year. Remove prostrate canes and canes that are less than two feet tall, cutting them off flush with the base of the bush. If more than two or three new upright canes grew the previous summer, remove the extras. Also, remove canes from the center of the bush (this opens the bush to air and sunlight), and cut them flush with the base of the bush. I’d also check the pH of the soil, as blueberries require extreme acidity (4 to 4.5). Maintaining a proper pH will help these plants enormously in all aspects.

Readers of this column are invited to submit garden tips and questions to this column. Questions of general interest will be published as space permits. Mail to: Bing J. Carbone, 5 High Meadow Road, Huntington CT 06484 or e-mail Bjcgardens@aol.com

Ruth’s Tips: Eye-catching plants in red and gold – Enterprise

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Walnut Creek’s Ruth Bancroft is a national authority on drought-resistant gardening. Twice a month, she and her staff share their knowledge with readers.

Q At the Ruth Bancroft Garden’s fall plant sale, I parked in the back and, walking up the drive toward the sale, I passed two plants with lovely flowers. One was a tree with clusters of bright red flowers, the other a bush with large yellow bell-like flowers. Can you tell me what these are?

A The tree is the Australian Flame Tree, Brachychiton acerifolius. The species name “acerifolius” refers to the resemblance of its palmate leaves to those of a maple. This is only a superficial resemblance, however, since this tree is not at all related to the maples.

The common name Flame Tree refers to the showy red flowers, which hang down in clusters of up to a foot in length. Under some climatic conditions, these trees shed all their leaves before bursting into full bloom, so that the many clusters put on a fiery display. At the Ruth Bancroft Garden, however, the leaves do not shed, and the tree flowers a little at a time over the summer and fall months.

The cup-like flowers of B. acerifolius measure about three-quarters of an inch across. There are no petals; the showy red cup is composed of fused sepals which look petal-like.

This tree can reach a height of 60 feet or more. Our specimen at the Ruth Bancroft Garden, however, is nowhere

near this tall after 30 years.

Brachychitons come from Australia, and B. acerifolius is native to Queensland and New South Wales on the eastern side of the continent.

This genus has long been placed in the family Sterculiaceae, which is related to the Hibiscus Family (Malvaceae). Many taxonomists now favor including the Sterculiaceae in an enlarged concept of the Malvaceae.

The plant with the large yellow flowers you’ve asked about is the shrub Tecoma stans ‘Gold Star,’ sometimes called Yellow Bells. Its leaves are divided into leaflets 2 to 3 inches long with serrated edges.

Normally the species becomes a large bush or small tree, up to 25 feet high. ‘Gold Star,’ however, is more compact, seldom exceeding 6 feet.

It is notable for its long blooming period, through the spring, summer and fall months. In cold winters, the plant may show frost damage, but it can be cut back to the base, and it will sprout and bloom again.

The genus Tecoma belongs to the Trumpet Vine Family, Bignoniaceae. Tecoma stans is native to a large area from southern Arizona and Texas south through Central America to South America.

If you have a question for the Ruth Bancroft Garden, email info@ruthbancroftgarden.org.

Your Garden Guy: Tips for creating a garden walkway

As cooler weather arrives, consider “hardscape” projects such as installing a garden path. Here are some tips:

• The path should go to something — preferably something attractive.

• Make the path at least 3 feet wide.

• Materials for the path can include pavers (my favorite), poured cement, stone, loose pebbles or mulch. Just be sure that the surface is easy to walk on and stable.

• When using loose stone or pebbles, be sure to use materials that are angular verses round. Round stones keep moving around, and this is uncomfortable to walk on — like walking on a million marbles!

• For paths with loose materials as a surface, line the path with a metal edge or stone to keep it neat and attractive.

• Landscape lighting along the path is an invitation for an evening stroll.

Here are some more tips for the landscape this week:

• Continue to remove leaves from the lawn with a rake or mulching mower. When raking, put the leaves in a compost pile.

• Use ornamental kale, mustards and cabbage in containers for added color and interest.

• Stack firewood on a wood pallet to prevent wood decay. When stacking, use a criss-cross pattern. All fire wood should be at least 20 feet from the house to discourage termites.

• Spring bulbs are on sale now for as much as 50 percent off. Bulbs can still be planted in beds, so buy a bunch.

Todd Goulding provides residential landscape design and consultations. Contact him at GouldingDesignGroup.com or 345-0719.

Twinkle’s Garden | Winter bulb storage tips

Winter is on its way and now is the time to harvest those bulbs that might not withstand colder temps in the coming months.

Not every bulb needs to be plucked from the earth, and most likely, unless you are a meticulously organized gardener, you might not remember exactly where every bulb was planted this year.

Still, to keep your bulbs from freezing so you can replant in the spring, dig them up and store them until the conditions are right to head back out in the yard.

Basically most flowering bulbs should be dug up and stored, especially if you are in zones 7-8 or above. If it’s warm enough in the more southerly climes to produce flowers all year, leaving them in the ground is OK. But if you want better blooms, storing them will help a great deal.

What bulbs should I store?

  • Canna
  • Lilies
  • Caladiums
  • Jonquils
  • Elephant Ear
  • Begonias
  • Dahlia
  • Freesia
  • Gladiolas

Twinkle's Garden

Where do I start?

Dig out your bulbs, or if you haven’t planted them, remove from dirt and let the bulbs, rhizomes or corms dry out.

Twinkle's Garden

Dust off any dirt with a dry cloth, and avoid rinsing so there is no added moisture.

Place in dry containers with holes punched in, layered with cotton cloth or newspapers.

Do not store in air-tight containers. This could cause moisture to collect and aid in fungal growth, rotting your bulbs.

Where is the best place to store them?

You can store them in a dry, unheated basement, if you are certain it is free from moisture.
Sometimes, depending on your location, the garage is a perfect place, tucked out of the way and out of direct sunlight.

If you have room, placing them in the dry storage drawer of your refrigerator is a great place to trick your bulbs into dormancy.

Don’t forget!

Label, label, label! Make sure you label your bulbs so you’ll know what they are come springtime.

Make sure you check on your bulbs several times during the winter. A calendar reminder would be the perfect way to remember.

Throw away any shriveled bulbs you find, and remove any packing material that is rotten or moldy. If there are bad spots or rotting, carefully remove with a paring knife.
If your bulbs begin to wrinkle or look shrunken, mist the packing material lightly with a little bit of water.

What happens after winter?

Make sure to get ready to plant as soon as the ground thaws to get the best results from these moody bulbs. As long as you take good care, these bulbs will multiply and you’ll be able to dig them up, store and reuse every spring.

George Weigel’s Garden Tip of the Week: Four favorite fall shrubs for your …


GEORGE WEIGEL

By

GEORGE WEIGEL

The Patriot-News

on November 08, 2012 at 10:42 AM, updated November 08, 2012 at 10:45 AM

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George Weigel's Garden Tip of the Week Video: Four favorite fall shrubs for your backyard

George Weigel’s Garden Tip of the Week Video: Four favorite fall shrubs for your backyard
 No need to drive hours to see great fall foliage when you can grow some magnificent fall-interest beauties right in your own yard. Garden writer George Weigel shows you four of his favorite shrubs for fall interest in this Garden Tip of the Week video. All four are native species, too. Video By: Christine Baker, The Patriot-News
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You can get wonderful fall foliage right in your own backyard: All you need are the right fall shrubs.

There’s no need to drive hours to see great fall foliage when you can grow some magnificent fall-interest beauties right at home.

Garden writer George Weigel shows you four of his favorite shrubs for fall interest in this Garden Tip of the Week video. All four are native species, too.

For more garden tips, check out the links below.

george-weigel.jpg

Look for George Weigel’s Garden Tip of the Week each Thursday. George Weigel is the garden writer for the Patriot-News and also owner of a garden-consulting business for do-it-yourselfers, garden-tour host, frequent garden speaker, Pennsylvania Certified Horticulturist and certified gardening nut.

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What we learned from the 2012 growing season

Worth the pain – Las Vegas Review

As caretaker to the Botanical Cactus Garden at the Ethel M Chocolate factory in Henderson, Steve Bowdoin knows it is a matter of when, not if, he will get pricked by needle – especially as he prepares the garden for the annual holiday light display.

No matter how careful Bowdoin and his three-man team are, wrapping lights around cactuses is hazardous.

And none of that really bothers Bowdoin. He enjoys what he does.

The joy he brings to the thousands of people who visit the garden each holiday season compensates for the pain inflicted by the cactuses.

“It’s fun and crazy all at the same time,” he said.

Bowdoin said his work kind of makes him a goodwill ambassador for the garden.

“I talk to 200-300 people a day,” he said.

It takes 960 man hours and nearly 175 pairs of gloves for Bowdoin and his crew to hang more than half a million lights – 503,000 to be precise – that transform the Botanical Cactus Gardens into a colorful holiday wonderland.

This year, Bowdoin added 3,000 bulbs to the display, all of which are LED so they will appear brighter and use less energy.

In addition, he has several new figurines and five inflatable displays, including Green, who joins Yellow and Red, the popular MM’s characters.

“No matter how hard I try to seclude them in the cactus, people go up and hug them,” Bowdoin said.

A less dangerous opportunity to hug the characters would be to visit on Fridays and Saturdays when life-size MM’s roam the gardens and interact with guests, he added.

Bowdoin said the figurines and inflatables give the gardens some holiday atmosphere during the daylight hours for those who cannot visit at night when the lights are on. He hopes, however, that it will entice visitors to return after the sun sets.

Among the new figurines this year are several LED-lighted pelicans.

“They were cool so we will try them out. If you are from Florida, they will fit right in,” he said with a mischievous grin and lamenting the fact that he could not find any lighted, wire-frame penguins.

Work on the holiday light display begins in September when Bowdoin begins inventory and testing each bulb on his 100 palettes of lights and decorations.

“No matter how yard we try, there’s always one string, one strand, that doesn’t work,” he said.

The actually hanging of the lights begins in early October.

Bowdoin has the process so narrowed down that he can tell you exactly how many man hours it will take to complete the job and how his team is progressing at any time throughout the weeks the lights are being installed.

For example, on Friday, 10 days before the annual lighting, he still had 82 hours of work remaining and was six hours behind. And that was after making up two hours from the day before.

By tomorrow, all they will have left to complete is to bury all the cords and tidy up the gardens.

In reality, Bowdoin said it takes about six months of work to prepare the lights, hang them, unhang them and plan what will go where.

Bowdoin and his team begin installing the holiday lights on the ground cover and work their way up to the canopies of the trees.

One of the last areas to be completed is the gazebo where Santa makes his home for the duration of the holiday season. Bowdoin said he makes the special display different each year and it’s always a great surprise to garden visitors, as well as factory workers.

Taking the lights down is “not as stressful as putting them up,” he said.

Although it typically takes four to six weeks to take all the lights down, Bowdoin said they are not on as strict of a schedule to complete the task.

“If some trees lag behind, it is not as critical,” he said.

He said he also uses the time as an opportunity to prune the plants, especially the trees.

By February, all is quiet at the garden and Bowdoin and one other person maintain the grounds.

“It’s when the quail and lizards come back,” he said, imagining what they must think about the holiday spectacle and multitude of visitors.

The 19th annual Cactus Lighting event will take place Tuesday from 5- 8 p.m. at the three-acre garden adjacent to the chocolate factory. The countdown to the lighting will take place at about 6 p.m.

Those wishing to attend the cactus lighting event can receive a family four-pack of tickets by bringing a new, unwrapped toy to the chocolate factory no later than noon Tuesday. Tickets are limited and will be distributed on a first-come, first-served basis.

Toys collected at the factory will be donated in the annual KLUC-FM toy drive for distribution to needy children this holiday season.

The evening’s festivities will be hosted by comedian George Wallace, with entertainment by Zowie Bowie and Michael Grimm, a winner of “America’s Got Talent.” Additionally, there will be performances by local choirs, face painting, balloon artists, prize drawings and chocolate samples.

Pictures with Santa are free, but a professional photographer will be on hand offering images for $10 each.

Also, Ethel M will be selling hot chocolate and water for $1 each, with all proceeds benefiting Smile Train, an international charity that provides cleft palate surgery to those in need.

New this year, all guests at the lighting event will receive special 3-D glasses. With glasses, the attraction will come to life with special 3-D effects; they can be purchased for $2 throughout the season.

Santa Claus returns to the gardens Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 5 to 9 p.m. Also on weekends is entertainment by local choirs.

For those who would like to visit the gardens when it is a little less crowded, Bowdoin said Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays are best.

Michael Spencer’s Make It Green: Mid-story landscape is critical to design appeal

Ligustrum japonicum

Ligustrum japonicum


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When designing a landscape, it's important to consider plants in the mid story — the middle part of your garden that starts about 5 feet off the ground and goes up to about 15 to 20 feet. Mid-story plants help add stability and balance to the landscape.

Photo by Michael Spencer

When designing a landscape, it’s important to consider plants in the mid story — the middle part of your garden that starts about 5 feet off the ground and goes up to about 15 to 20 feet. Mid-story plants help add stability and balance to the landscape.


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Ligustrum japonicum | Ligustrum

Ligustrum japonicum | Ligustrum


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ABOVE: Bougainvillea is a flowering plant that can add a pop of color to your mid-story landscape.    LEFT: Notice how this ligustrum japonicum adds balance between the low plants and the tall palm trees.

Photo by Michael Spencer

ABOVE: Bougainvillea is a flowering plant that can add a pop of color to your mid-story landscape.

LEFT: Notice how this ligustrum japonicum adds balance between the low plants and the tall palm trees.


Assessing design and design process is one of those enterprises regarded as either simple or simplistic, chiefly by those not engaged in the exercise.While the process of design is second nature, writing about it has been a sometimes uphill endeavor. I find myself peeling away layers of my own efforts, asking myself why this or that, is done. For the most part observing my own process has been has been quite encouraging. But how to describe it to non-designers?

The middle

Since Aristotle is one of those timeless people needing no introduction, here is his take on a subtle truth about artistic excellence: the middle.

Speaking about plays, Aristotle said they are “a representation of an action that is whole and complete and of a certain magnitude. A whole is what has a beginning and middle and end.”

And as with so many things, once you read these words you realize the truth of it: It’s the middle that counts.

Now think about art class in school, where the teacher patiently explained to 11-year-olds the notion that drawings have a foreground, a midground and a background. Oddly, this idea was not discovered by the art world until quite late in history — imagine just about any Egyptian representation, or Greek, for that matter.

Egyptian carvings would have been cool with palm trees or sand dunes in the background, don’t you think?

Turn it over

You can rotate this notion, like this: background becomes “canopy,” and foreground becomes “ground plane.” And perhaps most importantly, the midground becomes “mid story.” This middle part of your garden, the part that starts perhaps 5 feet or so off the ground and goes up to 15 or 20 feet, is called the “mid story.” This is where your garden comes alive, because without the middle, it is not whole.

Many designers remember that a garden needs a canopy provided by shade trees (oaks, mahogany, black olive) or by large palms (royals, for example). These canopy plantings provide scale and shade, which is necessary on the ground plane. Think of the canopy as more than 30 feet in the air.

Shrubs, too, rarely escape attention. Shrubs are mostly 5 feet tall or less. Shrubs are what many neophytes focus attention on.

Inside the range

The mid story is the heart of your garden, populated largely by patio trees, multi-stem critters with no leaves below a small canopy, and there are dozens of examples. Among the larger patio trees are ligustum, seagrape, queen’s crape myrtle and senna (also called cassia and currently blooming with yellow flowers here in Southwest Florida). When a garden requires a smaller individual, consider jatropha, angel trumpet, pygmy date palm, or even Everglades palm (Paurotis), which is easily managed as either a large plant or a daintier individual.

The rules of design apply in your choice of mid-story plants: First, do no harm, which means horticultural requirements of the plant are the first factors to consider. Following suitability, your design is driven by texture, contrast and the other usual suspects that will help you make your choices.

Not just trees

The mid-story might be populated by garden objects other than plants — we don’t want any stifled creativity around here, do we? A large hanging staghorn fern, for example, is mid story. Those of you who appreciate statuary will find them creating a useful scale, depending on the piece. And an overhead trellis is mid story while providing shade and a place to hang vines.

As always I welcome your comments, feedback, or questions, and I answer all email: ms@msadesign.com.

‘Garden Jewels on F Street’ – Times

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EUREKA — The Eureka Sequoia Garden Club continues its Front Yard Landscape Contest this month with the naming of “Nine Garden Jewels on F Street.” Garden club members Anne Van Zandt and Mary Lou Goodwin viewed and evaluated all of the properties along F Street in Eureka.

If a property’s score was more than 90 out of 100 points, it was declared a contest winner. The evaluation form included points for use of plant materials, design principles evident, perfection of hardscapes and fences and maintenance.

Both Van Zandt and Goodwin are National Garden Club and California Garden Clubs Inc. trained landscape design consultants. The G Street awards continue the program that began in July and evaluated front yards on H Street. The committee obtained the property owners’ names and photos were taken of each property.

For more information on the Eureka Sequoia Garden Club, its activities and monthly programs, call Goodwin at 442-1387.

The nine Garden Jewels on F Street are listed below with descriptions written by Goodwin:

* A group of ‘Tree of Heaven’ trees are featured on the side of the terraced side hill beneath the modern home of Dottie Sweet at 4257 Fairway Drive (the continuation of F Street up to and beyond city limits). The area is planted with rosemary, heather, species geraniums, gerbera daisies and purple hebe. A walkway contains carriage lights on used brick posts with an understory of sculptured privot. The house is softened with

rhododendrons, azaleas, heaths and New Zealand tea tree for seasonal color.

* David and Josephine Tom’s Southern California Tudor located at 2333 F St. greets visitors with a front porch trimmed in brick. The ceramic containers hold bamboo and succulents. Blue agapanthus, pink escallonia, stylized juniper and rhododendrons are contained in the brick border with some boulders for accents. The corner lot features a flowering cherry tree.

* The Dutch style home at 3132 F St. is the residence of Dr. Joanna Marcuz. Fences that are low and solid hold the white arbor over the walkway to the brick porch with ceramic containers of miniature junipers. Genevieve Schmidt Landscape Design created the collection of viburnum with tri-colored leaves, alstromeria, Japanese iris, heavenly bamboo (nandina), purple species geraniums, fuchsia and summer-blooming dahlias. The corners feature a red Japanese maple and mature rhododendrons.

* The home at 4290 F St. is an example of the use of brick in yard design. It is featured in the driveway in a patterned design with slabs of inset concrete. The front yard has a circular form with brick edges and heather, juniper and boulders as accents in them. The mid-century home of William Bachelor starts on the street with photenia, trimmed juniper, pine tree, agapanthus and camellia. The geometric fence supports an Oriental-style arbor surrounded by nandina (heavenly bamboo) and the brick walkway goes to the front door.

* Tom and Mona Genter live in the modern Mediterranean home at 4409 Fairway Drive. The red geraniums on the windowsill complement the red tile roof. The side hill lawn features a dracaena tree and is accented by boulders, blue agapanthus, geraniums, yellow day lilies, purple Japanese iris, lavender, nandina and mock orange. The front porch presents a Meyer lemon in a container and the roadside garden is flush with ever-blooming pink and lavender heathers.

* An escallonia hedge near the sidewalk provides a frame for the Dr. Brian and Nancy Craig saltbox home at 2524 F St. A lighted walkway welcomes guests to the porch with the topiaries in containers. The front yard contains rhododendrons, heaths, geraniums, bush roses and deciduous trees around the lawn. The side yard is accented by a rose-covered arbor, while seating in this secluded garden surrounded by junipers and privot hedges is enjoyed on a sunny day.

* The 2613 F St. bungalow of Carl and Kim Regalo presents petunias in many ways. The annuals are in window boxes, porch boxes and hanging baskets. The walkway is trimmed with boulders, hen-and-chicks succulents and different colored mosses. The colorful borders that are around the lawn hold roses, rosemary, calla lily, hydrangeas, fuchsia and flowering maples.

* The Early Victorian residence of Ritchie and Dianne Phillips at 930 F St. can be seen from the street through the white picket fence with rose bushes marking the gate. The front of the house contains blue hydrangea and purple ‘Martha Washington’ pelargoniums. A speckled gravel-and-concrete walkway and driveway leads to the blue porch with decorative hand rails that complements the light green house. The borders contain hybrid tea, grandiflora and shrub roses. Canna, geraniums, alstromeria and fuchsia combine with a large flowering cheery tree. Alyssum is a ground cover beneath all of the flowers.

* Duncan Consulting at 3015 F St. is in an original Henderson Center residence. The front yard is a mass of blooming lavender during the summer. Rosemary and heathers are used as a ground cover and New Zealand tea shrub and heaths frame the front door of the brick porch. A mature tree, blue agapanthus and calla lilies complete the scene.

New Prayer Garden in the shape of a rosary

Above, church members Denise Drobek and two of her children, Jadyn and Joey, sit on a new granite bench talking with Father David Buersmeyer in the Prayer Garden during last Sunday’s dedication cermony. Below top, Prayer Garden Committee leaders, from left, Janet Tevlin, Mary Ann Klakulak and Paula Klozik stand near the rock bubbler in the new SS. John and Paul Prayer Garden in Washington Township. Below bottom, rendering of the way the Prayer Garden was to look.

(Observer photo by Marianne Weiss)

      A brick pathway at SS. John and Paul Catholic Church in Washington Township that seems to meander in a garden is actually shaped like a rosary.
      
Located on 28 Mile Road, west of Campground Road, the community dedicated the new Prayer Garden after the 9:30 a.m. Mass last Sunday.
      
A brick pathway is shaped to form a rosary, including beads, starting at the east entrance with the cross. Following the path, the beads are indicated by bricks shaped like diamonds to indicate each time the “Hail Mary” is to be recited.
      
A rock bubbler sooths people praying with the gentle sound of water and centered in the garden is a miniature of “The Pieta,” a well-known masterpiece by Michelangelo. The outdoor statue portrays Mary grieving as she holds the lifeless, scarred body of Jesus after he was taken off the cross.
      
Granite benches invite people to sit and relax while saying prayers and meditating. Lilac bushes, daffodils and perennials placed in strategic places along with dogwood for the winter months, make the garden a year-round retreat.
      
All of this, including the trees, flowers and a rose garden, will be taken care of by the garden committee, nicknamed “Gardening Angels.”
      
Serving since January on the Prayer Garden committee are co-Chairs Mary Ann Klakulak and Janet Tevlin, with members Connie Hojnacki, Ron and Sharon Pewinski, Sharon Pospiesch, Tamara Weiss, Pat Gresko, Cathy Radtke and Paula Klozik, the church’s business manager.
      
Klozik, who has worked at the church for 15 years, said the landscape company designed the garden after the committee researched other parish’s gardens.
      
“We started searching for a contractor to do our prayer garden in front of the church,” said Klozik. “It will be lit up at night so people can come to use it 24 hours a day.”
      
Klozik said families can remember loved ones with brick memorials that will allow for names to be engraved on them. 
      
The contractor hired for the job was Jerry Mayle from Custom Landscape Services.
      
“We did the brick work and the landscaping, with the focal point being the rosary,” said Mayle. “It was an honor to do this at SS. John and Paul.”
      
Father David Buersmeyer began the dedication ceremony as parish members gathered outside in the chilly November air. He thanked all those who served on the Prayer Garden committee and the landscaping contractor in attendance. 
      
Following this, Father Buersmeyer had the very first family sit on one of the benches for a photo in the center of the garden.
      
“The rest of our family is home with colds,” said Denise Drobek of Wahington Township, while her kids, Jadyn and Joey, shivered next to her. “We really love this Prayer Garden, it’s just beautiful.”
      
Ron and Sharon Pewinski from Washington Township have been members since 1980.
      
“We are glad to be on the garden committee,” said Ron. “We brought up ideas for the landscaping and it has turned out beautiful, better than I pictured on the design.”
      
In the last part of the intercessory prayers, Father Buersmeyer said, “We pray for the surrounding community, that people will see this garden as a place where they are welcome to come.”
      
Then he blessed the garden with holy water and led the parishioners as they walked around the rosary path.
      
“We dedicate this Prayer Garden as a place of reflection and peace,” he said.
      
SS. John and Paul Catholic Church is located at 7777 28 Mile Road, Washington Township and their parish office telephone number is (586) 781-9010 or people can find their website at: www.ssjohnandpaul.org.