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Tips to help plan your garden against bushfire risk

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Anigozanthos (Kangaroo Paw) has a high resistance to fire.

BUSHFIRES are a naturally occurring event. Many of our native plants have adapted to deal with this and in fact many rely on fire events as part of their lifecycle.

However development adjacent to bushland areas has increased the risk of fire impacting on people and their assets.

When planning your garden and property for fire protection, it’s important to consider plants as an integral part of your overall fire protection plan.

The principles of landscaping for bush fire protection aim to:

Prevent flame impingement on the dwelling
Provide a defendable space for property protection
Reduce fire spread
Deflect and filter embers
Provide shelter from radiant heat
Reduce wind speed

Using fire-resistant plants

No plant is completely “fire-resistant” but some are more flammable than others.

Plants with broad fleshy leaves are better than those with fine hard leaves.

Those with significant amounts of volatile oils, such as the eucalypt family, which includes gums and tea-trees, should be avoided.

The influence of plant shape is a lot more subjective: low growing plants and ground covers are better than shrubs; plants with dense foliage are better than those with open airy crowns; plants which don’t retain dead material are better than those which hold lots of fuel; plants with smooth bark are better than those with ribbon and rough bark.

Fire retardant plants can absorb more of the heat of the approaching bushfire, without burning, than more flammable plants.

They can trap burning embers and sparks and reduce wind speeds near your house if correctly positioned and maintained.

Fire resistant ground covers can be used to slow the travel of a fire through the litter layer and fire resistant shrubs can be used to separate the litter layer from the trees above.

If the low flammability plants sound like ornamentals and vegetables and the highly flammable ones sound like dry bush and scrub; then you’ve got the idea.

Windbreaks

The use of trees as windbreaks is a common practice but trees also provide a useful function, trapping embers and flying debris, which would otherwise reach the house.

By reducing the wind speed, a row of trees also slows the rate of spread of a bushfire and a dense foliage traps radiant heat, lowering bush fire radiant heat.

A windbreak that allows 30-60% of the wind to pass through is ideal as less than this becomes too solid with ember laden winds being carried over the top of the break.

To be effective a windbreak must:

Be located on the side of the lot from which fire weather normally approaches
Be of sufficient length (generally 100 m minimum length)
Use smooth barked eucalypts, rainforest trees or deciduous trees
Make sure there are no breaks of sufficient size to allow winds to funnel through
Be separated by sufficient distance from the hazard so as not to be consumed and become a hazard itself

Maintenance

To maintain a garden that does not contribute to the spread of bushfires, it is necessary to plan the layout of the garden beds and take an active decision to minimise certain features in favour of other features.

Maintain a clear area of low cut lawn or pavement adjacent to the house
Keep areas raked and cleared of fuel
Use non-combustible fencing
Organic mulch should not be used in bush fire prone areas
Planting trees and shrubs such with branches that don’t overhang the roof

Plants that have a higher resistance to fire

Acer
Acacia (wattle)
Ajuga repens
Agapanthus
Acmena smithii (Lilly Pilly)
Anigozanthos (Kangaroo Paw)
Atriplex (Saltbush)
Calodendron capense ( Cape Chestnut)
Callistemon citrinus
Camellia
Caprosma
Canna Lilly
Casuarina (River She Oak)
Citrus
Delonix regia (Poinciana)
Dianella
Dicksonia antartica (Tree Fern)
Escallonia
Eucalyptus maculata (spotted gum)
Hebe
Hibiscus
Hymenosporum (Native Frangipani)
Hydrangea
Lomandra
Laurus nobilis (Laurel)
Lavender
Liquidambar
Liriope
Magnolia
Mulberry
Geranium
Photinia
Rhagodia (saltbush)
Rhododendron
Syzygium (Lilly Pilly)

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Ruth’s Tips: Consider adding Agave striata to your garden

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Walnut Creek’s Ruth Bancroft is a national authority on drought-resistant gardening. Twice a month, she and her staff share their knowledge with readers.

When people think of an Agave, they usually picture something along the lines of the classic Century Plant, Agave americana. With its swordlike leaves, which bear stout teeth along the edges and are tipped with a sharp spine, it has an imposing presence.

But Agave is a very diverse group, and many kinds look quite different from Agave americana. One of these is the delightful species Agave striata, a modest-sized plant with heads of needlelike leaves that are roughly 2 to 3 feet in diameter. It is sometimes mistaken for a Yucca because of its resemblance to Yucca whipplei (alternatively named Hesperoyucca whipplei and sometimes called Our Lord’s Candle).

While Agave striata and Yucca whipplei look alike, the leaves of Agave striata are narrower. Yucca whipplei leaves are straight, while those of Agave striata tend to curve. Over time, Agave striata becomes a multiheaded cluster of rosettes, while Yucca whipplei usually remains single — though some forms produce offshoots and form clumps.

Yucca whipplei can range in color from gray-green to blue-green to silvery. Agave striata has a greater range of leaf hues, including green or blue-green. But Agave striata may also be tinged with pink, red or purple, especially in hot, dry conditions.

other Agave species, A. striata grows for many years without flowering, then puts out a tall stalk from the center of the rosette for a final burst of flowering before it dies. The stalk, which has no side branches, rises to 6 and 8 feet. Its lower portion bears wispy threadlike bracts, which are actually miniature modified leaves. The upper part holds the tubular flowers, which can be straight or curved and are surprisingly variable in color — yellow, yellow-green or vivid emerald green, sometimes tinted with red or purple, or completely dark purple.

The pollen-bearing stamens extend well beyond the petal tips, putting the yellow pollen on prominent display. In its native northeastern Mexico, A. striata is a spring- or summer-blooming species, but our plants at the Ruth Bancroft Garden seem to obey no rules and flower at any time of the year. This fall, we have four plants in bloom, with a fifth starting to send up its flower stalk.

Agave striata makes a wonderful garden addition with its neat “spike-ball” rosettes. It may be tempting to seek out particular plants with pink or red leaves, but it is worth noting that the coloration might not persist after planting, unless grown in soil that is not too rich, with lots of sun and little water.

If you have a question for the Ruth Bancroft Garden, email info@ruthbancroftgarden.org.

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Late fall gardening tips

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While the season for giving and shopping and jammed parking lots is here, if you need a break from the hustle and bustle the garden might offer a respite.

Believe it or not, because of our climate, there’s plenty you can do in the yard around your house this time of year.

This is especially true when it comes to planting and transplanting things, but remember the golden rule of gardening: The right plant in the right place. That means you need to think long term like how big the plant will get and how much sun it’s going to need.

“I dress in layers,” horticulturist Ingela Wanerstrand said. She’s putting on one of several pairs of gloves she keeps handy for foggy cold mornings and she’s wearing waterproof rain paints to make sure that when she’s kneeling or digging that she stays dry.

“This is an apple tree,” she says as she hands the large pot to me. Our Northwest weather might be soggy in the winter, but we rarely have freezing temperatures which means it’s perfect for planting and transplanting.

“Then they have the whole winter to grow a root system, so that they’re more able to withstand their first dry season,” Wanerstrand said.

After you’ve selected the spot where you’re planting you’ll want to loosen the soil with a strong garden fork. This will allow you to penetrate the ground and go around large stones, which are easier to remove with a fork than a shovel. Roughly measure the hole you’ve dug and you want to make sure it’s a bit wider than the pot the plant came in. You don’t want the hole to be too deep because with our soils the plant can sink after planted and if it’s too deep the whole area will collect water, causing root rot.

“It’s very important to plant it at the depth at which it was in the pot,” Wanerstrand said.

She also demonstrates making a tiny mound in the middle of the hole that allows the gardener some wiggle room in placing the tree or shrub. Then, gently ease the plant out of the contain and in to the hole.

Next, you’ll want to tease the edges of the root ball if they’re pot bound with a sharp tool that could be anything from a knife to a carpet cutter. This will encourage the edges of the roots to expand into the surrounding soil. You’ll then want to backfill with the same dirt you dug out of the hole, but do not pack the soil down.

A stake is a good idea for our winter winds. A little sway is fine since it encourages the plant to grow stronger roots to prop itself up. Due to the nature of some dwarf root stocks of fruit trees, they’ll have to be staked for as long as they live. Biodegradable twine is optimal for fastening the tree to the stake with a figure 8 twisting pattern, so that the stake and the tree don’t touch each other. Since the twine will degrade over time, you don’t have to worry about it choking the plant like some plastic ties can.

A bit of a moat around the tree will direct water to fill the air pockets left behind from where you did not stamp or press down on the ground. A good soaking is going to give the plant much-needed water, it also will fill those air pockets and help bind the soils in the root ball and the surrounding earth.

“The first dry summer and maybe the second summer, too remember to soak the root ball,” Wanerstrand said.

It’s important to remember you can still put edibles in the ground. Things like kale, that you can get as starts from your local nurseriea, and bulb-like plants like garlic can also go into the ground now. Don’t forget about spring ornamentals like tulips and daffodils — a little work now with these plants will mean a host of flowers in the spring.

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Garden enthusiasts brave the elements

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MEDIA RELEASE: Garden enthusiasts brave the elements

Date:
21st November 2012

Despite the rain, dozens of people
turned up to the Daltons School of Gardening workshop this
past Saturday the 17th of December. The workshop, hosted by
Ellerslie International Flower Show gold medalist Xanthe
White, was centered on transplanting seedlings and also
featured a gardening expert from the Daltons team speaking
about soil. It was the first time the Daltons School of
Gardening had held one of their free workshops at the new
location outside Bunnings Warehouse in Manukau.

The
enthusiastic attendees were given a range of different
seedlings to work with and were taught how to properly
transfer them using every day items such as pencils and ice
block sticks. Those that attended were able to take the
seedlings they had transplanted home with them along with
information packs and helpful gardening tips.

The School
was launched in the spring of 2011 in response to the demand
from the public for more knowledge, access to experts and a
central place for gardeners to meet, mingle and learn. The
workshops are run on a monthly basis and in the past have
covered topics such as growing fruit, disease management,
watering, mulching, weeding and harvesting your garden.

For updates on the next school of gardening workshop,
tips from Xanthe White and other gardening interests simply
like ‘Daltons Ltd’ on Facebook or visit the website www.daltons.co.nz

ENDS

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Garden tips to help wildlife

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Winter can be a tough time for our wildlife. Natural food sources start to dwindle in the cold weather as there is more competition from birds and other wildlife, plants may become covered with snow, berry crops come to an end and lakes, rivers and ponds often freeze over.

In harsh winters, birds like blackbirds, song thrushes, and even exotic waxwings – seasonal visitors from Scandinavia – come to our gardens in a search for food.

And feeding birds in the garden is a popular activity – many of us are already feeding our feathered friends at least once a week – so now is a good time to ‘Step Up for Nature’ and start doing our bit to help them survive the cold damp months.

“Feeding in winter can be a life-saver for a wide range of species and will help birds to be in good health when the breeding season arrives next spring”, says Samantha Stokes of the RSPB in the South East.

“Birds feast on natural foods such as berries, fallen fruits and insects during autumn. However, Supplies of these are not limitless. Birds are increasingly reliant on us to provide additional food to get them through the cold winter nights.

“Garden favourites such as robins, blackbirds and finches have come to rely on feeders and tables as fast and easy food. Birds use most of their energy just surviving the cold nights. Our support is essential in making sure they stay alive.”

So if you feel like having some friends round this winter, the RSPB have five top tips for making sure you are the ‘host with the most’ for your feathered visitors.

Be creative in the kitchen. Different birds have different tastes and you are likely to attract far more species if you go for variety. More unusual items to try include pastry, cooked rice, mild grated cheese and cooked potatoes. Birds are polite guests – they won’t moan over a bit of mould on their bread! But avoid any salted foods, and buy toxin-free peanuts from reputable dealers.

Something to drink? Birds need water to drink and bathe in all year. Especially in hard frosts, open water can be hard to find. Change the water regularly and never add salt.

Go for the healthy option. Bird tables and feeders should be cleaned weekly with very dilute disinfectant to reduce the risk of disease.

Choosing your venue. Don’t put food on the ground if your garden is used by cats. And locate your table and feeders near to cover to give songbirds an escape route from predators.

A bed for the night. Now is the time of year to put up nestboxes, not only to give birds a place to nest in the spring but many birds use nestboxes to roost in overnight during cold winter nights.

Follow these tips and you’ll guarantee yourself a great party!

Putting out seed, peanuts or kitchen scraps will help your birds on a day-to-day basis, but now is also a great time to think longer term about turning your garden into a haven for wildlife. A few simple steps taken now will help birds, insects, hedgehogs and bats in the coming spring.

Plant deciduous trees, native shrubs and climbers like honeysuckle, rose and ivy to provide food and shelter. Leave patches of long grass to provide a home for insects, or build a log pile, they are perfect for insects, fungi mosses lichens.

Sow nectar and seed-rich flowers such as alyssum, sunflower and knapweed to encourage insects for birds to feed on.

As well as nestboxes for birds, think about providing winter hibernation places for hedgehogs or installing a roosting box for bats.

Create a water feature such as a pond or bog garden as much wildlife relies on a regular supply of freshwater.

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Give wildlife a warm welcome

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ONE in three people is now taking measures to attract wildlife into the garden, according to new research. Hannah Stephenson finds out how we can give animals and insects a winter haven

A third of us are actively trying to encourage wildlife into our gardens – an increase of more than 30% compared with four years ago, according to research by the Horticultural Trades Association (HTA).

More products targeted at the wild bird market are available in garden centres and we can choose feeding regimes which will attract birds that we most want to see in our gardens, says the HTA, the trade association for the UK garden industry.

Indeed, some 62% of us now regularly feed the birds in our garden and nearly a quarter provide nesting and breeding habitats.

But birds are not the only wildlife we can look after during the winter months and beyond.

By making leafy habitats and cosy corners, we will provide shelter for small animals who need to hibernate uninterrupted and for beneficial insects who will stop the nuisances ones such as aphids in their tracks.

Leave stones laid over hollows for toads, newts and even slow worms, as well as centipedes which prey on slugs. Pile up a few logs, which don’t need to be massive, in a quiet, shady spot and soon stag beetles, spiders and bees will be making a home out of this damp log cabin.

Log piles may also be housing slugs and snails, which in turn will attract blackbirds and wood mice looking for a meal, while hedgehogs may also forage for insects and slugs.

Try not to make your garden too tidy if you want to provide shelter for wildlife. Areas of long grass and piles of leaves, stones and twigs provide shelter for many beneficial insects and small mammals. Always check carefully for signs of life by gently turning over autumn bonfires before igniting them.

Ladybirds gather in large clusters to overwinter on dead plant stems, particularly in more sheltered parts of the garden. Helping them through winter will mean fewer aphids in late spring, when ladybird larvae begin to eat them.

There’s a wide variety of foods available which attract different species of bird to your garden. Robins and blackbirds love plump, juicy mealworms which will provide a good source of protein, fat and valuable moisture.

Seed mixes are full of nutritional value and are eagerly consumed by most species. Straight seeds such as sunflower hearts are the first choice for many birds and black sunflowers are enjoyed by chaffinches, greenfinches, sparrows and tits. Nyjer seeds are nirvana for goldfinches and siskins.

Keeping bird feeders and baths well stocked all winter will not only help the birds but also encourages them to explore other nooks and crannies in your garden, where overwintering slugs, caterpillars and other larvae are waiting to be eaten.

Avoid cutting hedges until the end of winter to provide valuable shelter for birds and give them more time to eat the berries and wait until March to cut back ivy growing up walls and fences, so the berries will be available to birds and the foliage can provide a foraging shelter for insect-eaters such as tits.

If you have a pond, put a few clay roof tiles in it to provide cover for overwintering frogs and other aquatic wildlife.

If you help wildlife through the winter months, beneficial insects, birds and other animals will have a head start in spring.

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KSRO axes cooking, gardening shows

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KSRO dropped “The Good Food Hour” and “Garden Talk” from its Saturday morning lineup as part of a cost-cutting measure by the Santa Rosa radio station’s Connecticut-based owner, Maverick Media.

The two locally produced shows — the longest-running garden and food shows in California, according to KSRO — were replaced Saturday by nationally syndicated content.

Past interviews, recipes and gardening tips were immediately removed from the KSRO website, leaving no trace they ever existed. The hosts of the shows were informed of the decision Friday, but no explanation was made to thousands of regular listeners.

“It was so out-of-the-blue,” said chef John Ash, who had been co-host of “The Good Food Hour” with Steve Garner since 1987. “It came as such a shock.”

Garner, a longtime KSRO broadcaster who also hosted “Garden Talk” with Gwen Kilchherr, said he had just hours to inform his Saturday morning guests, including famed sausage maker Bruce Aidells.

The station also axed veteran news co-anchor Curtiss Kim and wine commentator Tom Simoneau.

“I got a call around noon Friday,” Garner said. “I was told Maverick Media had reconsidered programming decisions. And we’re making a decision to terminate both shows.”

Kent Bjugstad, KSRO general manager, said the cuts came during a year-end review of the station’s finances. The two shows attracted few advertisers and were costing about $20,000 a year, he said.

Other programs were self-supporting or made a profit, he said.

At the same time, he said the station’s payroll was too high.

“We just needed to get more in line with the industry and our competitors,” Bjugstad said. “And we have to put our resources where we generate revenue.”

Bjugstad said KSRO has the largest number of employees of any radio station in Sonoma County, yet is fifth in revenue. Of its 28,200 weekly listeners, just 4,200 tune in to the food and garden shows, he said.

“These were the least profitable of all the programs,” Bjugstad said.

However, there’s a chance the shows could return to the airwaves. Bjugstad planned to meet with Garner and others after the Thanksgiving holiday to discuss possible funding strategies.

In 2010, KSRO cancelled Steve Jaxson’s “The Drive” but brought it back a few weeks later after the host developed his own sponsors.

“We made it work,” Bjugstad said. “We left the door open to Steve and Gwen to do the same thing.”

Media watchers decried the cuts as a further erosion of local broadcasting content.

Ed Beebout, a Sonoma State University assistant professor of communications and former anchor at the defunct KFTY TV-50, said the loss of such programs can have far-reaching effects.

Absentee ownership of radio and TV stations adds to the problem, he said.

“I think a lot of our identity comes through local media,” said Beebout, who left the airwaves when the Santa Rosa TV station closed in 2007. “As we see that content shrink, it leads to a situation where we lose our identity as a community.”

Meanwhile, loyal listeners of “The Good Food Hour” and “Garden Talk” expressed their unhappiness in angry phone calls and emails to KSRO management and burned up the blogosphere with accusations of corporate greed and mismanagement.

Betsy Fischer, an instructor in the culinary arts program at Santa Rosa Junior College, wrote a critical letter to the station, saying it “worships the money god” over all else.

Fischer said the programs showcased Sonoma County’s wine, food, agriculture and tourism industries. Cutting them ignores why people are here, she said.

“It’s really a shame,” Fischer said. “And to do it as suddenly as they did is disheartening.”

Joan Saxe, a Sebastopol real estate appraiser who listened to the shows from their inception, said she hoped another station would pick them up. She said KSRO could have done more to inform listeners of the coming changes.

“I learned how to cook from John Ash and I learned to garden from Gwen,” she said. “This is just horrific. I can’t imagine what they were thinking.”