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Gardening Tips: Ways to clean up your garden in the fall, prepare for winter


Posted: Friday, September 13, 2013 11:04 am


Gardening Tips: Ways to clean up your garden in the fall, prepare for winter

By Matthew Stevens

The Daily Herald, Roanoke Rapids, NC

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Fall is typically when we start looking to clean up the garden and begin to prepare for winter. This is true even for those gardeners who have gardens with many plants still in bloom up until late fall or even in winter.

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Friday, September 13, 2013 11:04 am.

Urban Gardening Tips from Evan Hanczor

evan_hanczor.jpg

The executive chef of Parish Hall in Williamsburg, Even Hanczor is more than aware of where his produce comes from. That’s because restaurant owner George Weld has a 6-acre farm upstate, where Hanczor frequently goes to help harvest the squash, beets, beans and lettuces that will eventually constitute the evening’s meal.

Of course, in his own life, Hanczor has to make due with the constraints of city living, which means culling his dinner from a tiny community plot, instead of the lush, expansive pastures of Goatfell Farm. So whether you’re fortunate enough to have a backyard or patio, or are merely making do with a windowbox or fire escape, Hanczor has a few helpful tips for the at-home urban gardener.

click to enlarge

    Getting Started: You’d be surprised how similar urban gardening is from growing things traditionally, in raised beds. Either way, you have to plan well. And in extra small spaces, it’s particularly important to maximize productivity while minimizing waste, which means, only grow what you want to eat. Also, you’ll want to practice succession planting, which means putting down seeds or plants a couple of weeks apart, so you have things ripening continuously. If everything comes up all at once, it’s difficult to make sure that everything gets used.

    Basic Plant Care: Start with good quality, aerated soil, seeds and plants from reliable suppliers. Otherwise, you risk breeding diseases right into your produce. Make sure to be thoughtful about where to place your plants. Some require more sun and some less, so plan accordingly based on the sun exposure patterns of your windowsill or plot. Water each morning or evening, once the sun is low (wet leaves scorch, otherwise). Weed often…plants need all the precious space and nutrients they can get in windowboxes and pots.

    Seeds vs. Plants: We’ve had better success with herbs when using starters, but have been totally fine with vegetables from seed. Since the season can be kind of short here, it’s helpful to start things like tomatoes, peppers, chard, etc. indoors while it’s still a little too cool outside, and then move them out to your windowsill/pots/garden plot as soon as the weather allows!

    What to Grow Indoors: Plants that seem to do well are mainly herbs, like basil, mint, parsley, oregano, chervil or thyme, as long as you have them near a window that gets some sun.

    What to Grow Outdoors: Most vegetables do better outside, in a raised bed in a community garden, or a large pot on a stoop or patio, because they’ll have the space and nutrient availability to stretch out. Tomatoes, peppers, kale, chard, cucumber and peas all seem to work well in our garden. A great herb called lovage has taken solid root in our plot and produces like crazy! Skip zucchini, squashes or pumpkins, which need a lot of room to expand along the ground.

    Handling Herbs: Herbs are generally easy to grow in small places in the city (especially hardy herbs like sage, parsley, mint, chives), but be careful, or they can take over your plot! To harvest, either pick a couple leaves off for a small quantity, or snip off branches where there is other new growth, to allow the new growth to continue while you use the fully-grown portions of the plant.

    How to Harvest: The basic rule for harvesting is, if it looks ready (and is easy to pull off the plant), it is ready. Remember, we’re hardwired to notice ripe fruits and vegetables, so trust your instinct! Better to harvest a little too soon than let something get overripe and rot. Besides, I’ve learned from experience that there’s a good chance I won’t get to cooking or eating a vegetable I pick on the same day, so if something’s a little underripe when I pick it, a couple days in the fridge or on the counter may give it time to fully ripen. Of course, picking the “perfect” tomato is always ideal!

    Parish Hall: 109 N 3rd St.,(718) 782-2602

    Tips for spring gardening

    Tips for spring gardening

    By Xanthe White In Gardens

    With winters becoming milder, spring is turning into a greater conundrum for me. I’m all set to start gardening again, but my garden hasn’t stopped growing.

    One lonely capsicum remains on last summer’s plant, which I hope might carry on for another season; the broad beans are a mass of blooms; I have sweet peas filling a wine barrel; and my raised beds are full of greens. The only option is expansion, but the most promising spot is occupied by a large composting pile at the end of the garden path. However, a move must be made or we won’t have room for a summer harvest.

    Spring …

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    Make the most of a bumper harvest

    After our glorious summer, gardeners can now expect equally glorious crops. Hannah Stephenson looks at the best way to store the fruits of your labour

    The warm summer months might be over, but the abundant wild berries, plentiful apples, and juicy tomatoes they helped create can make it feel like the sun is still shining.

    It’s unlikely keen gardeners can manage to eat all this bumper produce immediately though, which is where the art of storage comes in.

    Maincrop potatoes and onions will keep well in a cool shed or garage, while garlic should be placed in a cool room in the house. All three should be free of soil and perfectly dry before storing. Onions and garlic can be strung and hung up, while potatoes will be quite happy in paper or a hessian sack, kept in the dark to stop them from sprouting.

    If you have blackcurrants, redcurrants and gooseberries, these are perfect for jams, partly because they contain plenty of pectin, the ingredient that makes jam set. With jams or jellies, it is important to sterilise the jars and lids for 10 minutes in boiling water before using them. Most fruits and vegetables will last up to 12 months using this method.

    Blackberries and other wild berries have been abundant this year, thanks to last year’s wet summer and this year’s dry one, and are easy to freeze (although avoid freezing strawberries as they become mushy). Just select the best fruit, spreading the berries in a single layer on a clean tray and put it in the fast-freeze section of the freezer. Once it’s frozen, transfer it to bags and return it to the freezer.

    If you have too many ripe tomatoes, try drying them in the oven, placing them on a tray at the lowest setting for several hours with the oven door just ajar. Alternatively, skin them by placing them in a bowl of just boiled water, leaving them there for a few minutes, then removing the skin and blitzing them into a puree which can be a base for any Italian passata, which can be frozen. Unripe tomatoes can also be transformed into delicious green tomato chutney, there are umpteen recipes to be found on the internet.

    Cucumbers spring to mind when we think of pickling, but many vegetables and fruits can be preserved in this manner including peppers, cauliflower, apples and pears. Peas and green beans should be blanched (dunked in boiling water for several minutes, then plunged into cold water and dried off) before freezing, while courgettes freeze satisfactorily in prepared dishes such as ratatouille, and pumpkins can be made into preserves using lemons, sugar and mixed spices.

    Root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, beetroot and celeriac can generally be left in the ground until required, although try to dig a few up to store in a cool place before winter sets in and the ground becomes too hard to harvest them easily.

    To store gluts of apples and pears, you’ll need to handle them carefully, placing them in a room with a low, even temperature, good ventilation and a moist atmosphere such as a cellar. If you are putting apples in your garden shed, wrap them in newspaper (this slows the shrivelling process and isolates rots), put them in boxes, stack them in a cool spot under insulation (such as straw or polystyrene sheets) and cover with polythene. Check them regularly for signs of disease and remove any which have rotted. Pears prefer slightly drier and warmer conditions and are best not wrapped or stacked.

    Solar Update: April 2010, vegetable gardening tips and tricks

    The graph for the energy production of our SunPower solar panels tells the story of April. April showers bring May flowers. The various dips in production curve signals days in which it was cloudy and rainy in April. Thanks to the combination of rain and sun, our rose bushes in the front yard is in […]

    Loni Stark

    April 2010 produced exactly 300 kWh of energy.

    April 2010 produced exactly 300 kWh of energy.

    The graph for the energy production of our SunPower solar panels tells the story of April. April showers bring May flowers. The various dips in production curve signals days in which it was cloudy and rainy in April.

    Thanks to the combination of rain and sun, our rose bushes in the front yard is in full bloom and this past weekend, we added mulch to our backyard to prepare it for the hot summer season to come.

    I finally got around to purchasing the tomato plants for my vegetable planter box. It seems I am not the only one with the gardening bug as April also saw record downloads of my vegetable planter plans. I love hearing about all the wonderful things you are doing with your vegetable planter boxes and to see the photos of your completed planter boxes.

    For all the gardening tips and tricks, check out my gardening section by clicking here.

    This month also saw the addition of a new pomegranate shrub.

    Loni Stark

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    Garden Tips: No time to slack during fall gardening

    As the garden season winds down, many may think it is time to relax. But now is the time to make a checklist of fall gardening chores.

    First, fertilize the lawn. Early September and late October are the most important times to do this.

    During the hot part of summer, cool-season grasses become stressed. Grass shoot and root growth slows to a stop. But as the weather cools, the grass begins to grow again, establishing new roots increasing lawn thickness. Nitrogen applied in the fall helps the grass recover from the summer stresses.

    Washington State University recommends using a quality fertilizer that contains slow-release or controlled-release nitrogen, such as IBDU, sulfur-coated urea or urea formaldehyde. These fertilizers release nitrogen over an extended period of time. Fertilizers with soluble nitrogen, such as ammonium sulfate or urea, are best for late fall fertilization.

    Next, take care of weeds. If you just have a few weeds, take them out with a weed digger. If the problem is serious, consider broadleaf weed killers.

    For weeds like black medic, bindweed, mallow, dandelions, plantain and clover, use a combination herbicide product containing 2,4 D and MCPP. A lawn product containing triclopyr will help with tough-to-control broadleaf weeds, like oxalis, prostrate spurge, henbit, ground ivy and lawn violets.

    It also is a good time to buy spring flower bulbs for planting next month after the weather cools. Keep in mind that more expensive bulbs produce bigger flowers. If your bulbs are packaged in a plastic or closed paper bag, place them in an open, well-ventilated tray in a cool (50 to 60 degrees) spot.

    Wait to plant the bulbs until the soil temperature drops below 60 degrees. This temperature allows for root growth without stimulating leaf growth. Don’t forget to water after planting and whenever needed during mild fall and winter weather to keep the soil slightly moist.

    Other tasks include:

    — raking leaves.

    — build a compost pile.

    — divide spring and early summer flowering perennials that have become crowded.

    — cut to the ground the dead tops of perennial flowers.

    — weed and clean away plant refuse in garden and landscape beds.

    — aerate lawn if the soil is compacted.

    — give all trees, shrubs and perennials a deep watering before the water is shut off.

    — Marianne C. Ophardt is a horticulturist for Washington State University Benton County Extension.

    There’s owls, alpacas, gifts and crafts as well as gardening tips

    Handmade crafts, vintage gifts and local artisan produce will be just some of the things on offer at this year’s Autumn Country Market at Easton Walled Gardens, near Grantham, on Sunday, September 8.

    Alongside the stalls the event will also feature gardening demonstrations, performances from a local harpist, owls and alpacas for visitors to meet and artists painting in the gardens.

    Ursula Cholmeley, gardening director at Easton Walled Gardens, says: “Every year we host a special Autumn Country Market right here in our 17th century cobbled courtyard.

    “Lincolnshire has so much to offer and it is important for all of us here at Easton to showcase the very best, so what better way to celebrate it than to host an exclusive country fair and invite people from across the county to visit and enjoy.


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    “Visitors love coming to the gardens and experiencing a completely unique shopping experience in such beautiful surroundings, in addition to spending time in the gardens themselves, which have been lovingly restored from near ruin by our expert horticultural team.

    “This year’s market will have more stallholders than ever before, plus music and activities for everyone to enjoy.”

    Open 11am-4pm. Find out more at www.eastonwalledgardens.co.uk


    Gardening Tips: Can fall webworms damage a pecan tree?


    Posted: Friday, September 6, 2013 12:05 pm


    Gardening Tips: Can fall webworms damage a pecan tree?

    By Matthew Stevens

    The Daily Herald, Roanoke Rapids, NC

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    0 comments

    Here are a few of the questions on the minds of Roanoke Valley gardeners over the past week or so.

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    Friday, September 6, 2013 12:05 pm.

    Harvesting Onions & Other Gardening Tips

    University of Vermont

    Harvesting onions and storing properly, freezing fresh corn, and dividing certain perennials are some of the gardening activities for this month.

    Begin harvesting onions when about half to three quarters of the leaves have died back. Gently dig or pull the onions and store them in a dry, shady place with good ventilation, such as an outdoor shed or barn, for 10 days to two weeks. After the onions have cured, separate the young, soft, and thick-necked bulbs and use them first because they won’t store well. Put the rest in slatted crates or mesh bags, and store them indoors in a basement with low humidity and temperatures between 33 and 45 degrees F.

    Preserve the fresh-picked flavor of corn on the cob for winter meals. Cook the cobs as usual, then using a special corn scraper or a sharp knife, cut off the kernels and freeze them in freezer bags. They will be much tastier than any store-bought frozen or canned corn.

    It’s time to start some mesclun greens and leaf lettuce in bare spots in the garden for fall picking. Mix in some compost before seeding and give new seedlings a dose of liquid fish emulsion.

    Build the nutrient levels and organic matter in garden beds by sowing cover crops like annual ryegrass or buckwheat into empty annual beds. They will grow until winter kills them and then can be incorporated into the soil in spring. Cut down buckwheat before it flowers so seeds don’t become a problem.

    Begin removing the old mulch under roses and raking up all leaves and debris. While this organic matter may seem beneficial, there are many rose disease organisms and insects that overwinter there, and you can reduce the damage to your plants next year by getting rid of it all.

    Trees, shrubs, and perennials are on sale, and late summer into early fall is a great time to plant. Get new plants in the ground then so they can begin expanding their root systems. If you don’t have the final spot ready, sink the pots or root balls temporarily in an empty area in the veggie garden. Water them if nature doesn’t provide enough.

    Late summer is a good time to divide German and Siberian iris, rudbeckia, echinacea, daylilies, and tall phlox. If plants are blooming well, with strong stems, and you still have space for them, they shouldn’t need division. Don’t make the divisions too small or you’ll wait longer for blooms. Wait until after bloom to divide. Trim the foliage by at least half before replanting.

    Be sure to set bearded iris rhizomes (the thick roots) just barely below the soil surface to prevent rotting. When dividing these iris, check the rhizomes for mushy areas with borers. Discard affected roots, making sure to kill the borers.

    You can savor the smells and memories of summer this winter by making potpourri from your roses, pinks, mint, and other fragrant garden herbs and flowers. Pick the flowers in early morning soon after the dew has evaporated. Dry petals and flower heads, until crisp, on a screen or newspaper in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. Or, you can use an oven set at its lowest temperature. Mix the dried plants with orris root (from many grocery and health food stores, found among the spices) to preserve the flavor. Age and store in an airtight container in the dark.

    Some tips for summer gardening

    Late summer is a hard time to get inspired about working in the garden.  It’s really an in-between season too late for summer flowers, and too early for winter varieties.  But most of all, it’s just too hot to spend much time working outdoors.  However, there are plenty of easy jobs in the garden that really need to be done at this time.  My tips on late summer gardening was provided by Emeritus Extension Horticulture Specialist Dr. Robert Black, of the University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences.

    If you’re growing roses, it’s a good idea to prune them late in August.  Remove the healthy top growth, as well as the dead twigs and branches, and any diseased, injured, thin, or spindly growth.  Shorten the main canes and lateral branches.  Leave at least half the length of each main cane that’s one to three years old.  If you follow these pruning recommendations the first flowers can be expected in eight or nine weeks.  These flowers will be larger than they could have grown without the pruning.

    If you’re growing mums or poinsettias, this is the last month that should pinch these plants to increase blooms we’ve talked about this before, so you may remember that pinching back the stem tips will increase branching, and promote heavier flowering in the late fall.  But don’t wait too long before you do this.  Otherwise you’ll be pinching off the flower buds instead of the stem tips and this will reduce the number of flowers that bloom in the fall.  August is also the time to pinch off some the buds on our camellias.  As soon as you can distinguish the rounded flower buds from the pointed vegetative bud, twist off all but one of the flower buds at each tip.  The remaining bud should develop into a large flower, so be very careful not to injure it.

    Some flowers, such as Sasanquas and Japonicas, are valued for their large number of blooms and don’t need to be pinched.

    Many common ornamental, such as Oleander, Hydrangeas, and Azaleas can be propagated by cuttings this time of year.  For Azaleas, take tip cuttings, three to five inches long, with several leaves still attached.  Place the cutting in a rooting medium, and keep them moist by covering them with a plastic bag, or using a mist system.

    Many rooting mediums can be used.  The most common are sand, and mixtures of peat and perlite.  You may want to use a rooting hormone to hasten root growth.

    If you have any cold sensitive ornamentals in your landscape, you might think about rooting a few cuttings before winter, and keeping the young plants in a protected place.  That way, if your ornamental plant freezes, you’ll have replacement for the spring.

    If you want to plant things during August or early September, you might try bulbs of Louisiana Iris, Ginger, Crinums, Daylilies, Amaryllis, and Zephyr Lilies.  You can still plant wood ornamentals as well, but hurry up so that they’ll have a chance to become well established before the winter comes.

    Now is also the time to plan for your winter annuals, such as baby’s breath, calendulas, and pansies.  Start ordering your seeds and preparing the flower beds.

    Keep a careful watch for insect on your lawn and shrubbery.  Late summer is when chinch bugs and mole crickets are very active on lawns, and white flies, scales, aphids, and caterpillars are damaging ornamentals.

    For more information on late summer tips contact the Gulf County Extension Service @ 639-3200 or visit our websitehttp://gulf.ifas.ufl.edu