Earl May gardening experts showed the different plants that flourish even in the dead of winter. Many different floral house plants can grow all winter long and can keep the inside of the house looking green.
Earl May experts said winter house plants should be misted and spritzed but not heavily watered. These plants should stay moist but never be dry or drowning in water.
By Maryanne Sparks
Fauquier County Master Gardener
Gardeners in the area felt an added chill to their bones during the recent plunge in temperatures. Ice and snow can take a toll on the garden, but so can freezing temperatures.
The good news is that most plants can survive the latest Arctic blast if they are acceptable for planting in USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6A (-10 to -5 degrees F). Only time will tell us whether less cold-tolerant plants survive the winter.
However, ice and snow are sure to come our way, and preemptive measures can help minimize damage to your landscape. Plants covered in ice and snow may yield or even break under the stress of additional weight. This is especially true of evergreens.
Should multi-stemmed plants need additional support, consider temporarily using twine to wrap the plant before snow or ice accumulates. Brushing fresh snow off the limbs using a broom and working in an upward manner will clear plants of additional weight.
Strong winter winds may break limbs that are rigid and brittle. Plants may be uprooted by heavy winds when the ground is wet, but not frozen. Avoid problems by maintaining properly pruned trees and shrubs and providing appropriate staking and guying for new plantings. Remember to remove stakes and guy-lines before one year passes to allow the trees or shrubs to naturally develop resistance to wind.
Below-freezing temperatures affect lawns as well. Don’t walk on your lawns when temperatures dip, as this may cause damage to the crown of the plants.
And as for de-icing agents, many well-intentioned people often misuse products that can damage the landscape. Check the product label for its ingredients. Ethylene glycol is poisonous and should not be used near humans, pets, wildlife or plants. De-icing agents may contain calcium chloride or sodium chloride, salts which will kill plants.
Finally, resolve to be OK with some winter damage to your landscape, as it is bound to happen.
For more information, contact the Virginia Cooperative Extension Horticulture Help Desk at 24 Pelham St., Warrenton, Va. 20186 by telephone at 540-341-7950, ext. 1, by email at .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) or on the web at www.fc-mg.org.
Posted: Friday, January 17, 2014 1:52 pm
The Daily Herald, Roanoke Rapids, NC
My phone certainly rings a lot less this time of the year than it does in April and May, but one topic I can count on people asking me about is grapevines. There are many grapevines to be found in Halifax County and the Roanoke Valley, but since many of them have been growing since well before the person now caring for them was born, many people just aren’t sure exactly what to do with them.
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January
• Plant spring bulbs
• Trim perennials
• Begin adding new trees
• Mow winter weeds
February
• Prune carefully
• Mulch heavily
• Apply pre-emergency herbicides
• Prepare equipment for use
• Expand and repair irrigation …
January
• Plant spring bulbs
• Trim perennials
• Begin adding new trees
• Mow winter weeds
February
• Prune carefully
• Mulch heavily
• Apply pre-emergency herbicides
• Prepare equipment for use
• Expand and repair irrigation system
March
• Weed, weed, weed
• Divide perennials
• Build new beds
• “Texas Garden Almanac” by Doug Welsh
• usna.usda.gov/Research
• texassuperstar.com
• aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/native
• aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/picturepages
Having endured those first frosty mornings when the thermometer affirms that winter has settled in, gardeners take a deep breath and dig in – literally. The time is nigh.
Plan, prepare
January, for gardeners, marks the beginning of the road to spring and all those lovely plants, trees and blooms that enliven spirits in spring gardens. It is time to work in the plant beds, enrich soil gently and prepare for the beauty to come with spring. January is the perfect time to begin planning those new beds that have been dancing in gardeners’ heads since last spring.
Plant prune
Haven’t already started planting those spring crocuses, daffodils, tulips and narcissus? Why not? January days are still ahead when the temperatures cooperate and when working in the garden is heaven.
When hyacinths poke their fragile heads above the soil and begin to bloom in profusion, spring has arrived. It’s time for bluebonnet transplants, too, but keep watch for pesky bugs that love to nibble on them.
Prune your perennials. Trim back those perennials that have ugly deadheads after the freeze; perk up cool-season annuals with a bit of high-nitrogen fertilizer.
Put in trees, tend to grasses
Winter is the best season for putting in those trees that have been dancing in dreams since last spring. Plant living Christmas trees outdoors in a shady location after giving them a week to adjust to the cooler outdoor weather.
Mow winter weeds and water lawns thoroughly if rainfall doesn’t hit at least 2 inches in January. Lightly fertilize fescue and bluegrass and overseeded perennial ryegrass.
Plan rose beds, check out equipment
While hard freezes still occur in south Texas, the arrival of mid-February usually means the last freezing temperatures can be anticipated. It’s also the time when gardeners start to plan their rose beds. It’s easy to remember to prune roses on Valentine’s Day.
Heavy mulching now will not only help retain winter moisture in the soil but also introduce air in the soil as it is tilled in to decompose as spring arrives.
Apply pre-emergence herbicides and save muscle strain in April. Fertilize trees, shrubs and vines now so nutrients can be absorbed before spring growth begins.
Check those irrigation systems and make repairs or additions. Check out mowers, weed whackers and other engine systems that will be cranking up in spring; repair shops are usually more available now.
Smell beginning of spring
March shifts gardening into a higher gear. Gardeners can smell spring coming about this time and do not hesitate to jump into gardening with the longer days. There will be a lot of weeding this month.
Divide fall perennials and ornamental grasses so they can reestablish before the hot days of summer. Look for new growth and cut back dead foliage from ornamental grasses. Make sure annual and perennial flowers get a bit of fertilizer.
Amend soil, finish pruning
Start adding larger quantities of organic matter, but be careful not to significantly alter the soil. If you add both sand and organic matter to clay soil, the largest, strongest adobe brick known to humanity may result. Pine bark and compost perk soil up without altering the soil base. Let the winter moisture carry plants through March.
If pruning has not been finished, now is the time to finish up. Freeze-damaged perennials should not be pruned until new growth has begun.
Crank mower, then fertilize
Time to crank the mower for San Augustine and Bermuda grass; mow 1 inch lower than ended last year to remove winter-damaged foliage and make way for spring growth. Hold the fertilizer until April. Fertilize vegetable gardens with high-nitrogen granular fertilizer. Check fruit and nut crops – insects and diseases also like March.
Begin planning, planting and preparing
It is time to start planning, planting and preparing new gardens. Often, spring brings dreams of butterflies, birds and squirrels. Provide plants that will provide food, shelter and a place to raise young.
Even deer are welcome wildlife companions if care is given to deer-resistant plants such as dogwood, cast-iron plant, lantana, split-leaf philodendron, vitex, star jasmine, hummingbird bush and hundreds of other desirable plants that will grow beautifully in the garden while being unwelcome to grazing.
Spending time during these winter months in preparation for spring will bring you a great deal more time to enjoy all that comes with gardening.
The Gardeners’ Dirt is written by members of the Victoria County Master Gardener Association, an educational outreach of Texas AgriLife Extension – Victoria County. Mail your questions in care of the Advocate, P.O. Box 1518, Victoria, TX 77901; or vcmga@vicad.com, or comment on this column at VictoriaAdvocate.com.
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If you thought terrariums went out with macramé, mood rings and pet rocks, wake up and smell the 1970s.
If it makes you feel less dated, you can call those fancier terrariums – ones that have the vintage elements of a Victorian-influenced miniature house – by their formal name, Edwardian or Wardian cases.
Historically, botanists used these cases to protect and keep plants alive during shipping, and growing in terrariums was popularized by the Victorians. Terrariums had another heyday in the ‘70s, but those giant fishbowls stuffed with plants were a lot less elegant looking.
I’ve always found these glassed-in structures enormously appealing for their architectural details, but there’s also the fun of gardening under glass. There’s only so much daydreaming and page-thumbing I can do in winter, even with dozens of spring garden catalogs. I want to get my hands dirty.
Tovah Martin, horticulturalist, author and gardening trendsetter, suggests thinking of terrariums as “somebody shrank the garden.” Five years ago, she wrote “The New Terrarium,” which contains solid, practical advice. The challenge is selecting the right plants.
You can use practically any glass container to create this self-contained biosphere. Martin suggests a vase, canning jar, apothecary jar, cookie jar, a glass teapot, and yes, a fish bowl. You can also repurpose an old aquarium. It’s easier if you can get a hand inside the container, but you can always poke in plants with a wooden spoon or even a chop stick.
Make sure the container is scrupulously clean. A lid is helpful because you can better control moisture content. My case has removable glass panels across the top and sides. If you don’t have a lid, leave it uncovered or top it with a plate.
Because there are no drainage holes, you’ll need a layer of pebbles or gravel and a layer of activated charcoal to prevent root rot and keep the soil fresh. Use lightweight potting mix for planting. Depth of the soil may vary depending on the rootball of the plants you want to grow.
Always wear gloves when handling materials and plants.
Martin advises against cactuses, succulents and most herbs except mints because they can rot in the high humidity. Ferns, mosses, orchids, bromeliads, starfish plants, nerve plant, air plant (hello, again, ‘70s!), black mondo grass and strawberry begonia are a few of her favorites. Whatever you chose, they should be small and thrive in low light and humidity.
Don’t just plop in plants. Make sure roots are firm in the soil. Design the environment in the same way you would an outdoor bed – a mix of plant textures and colors and decorative touches. Be creative – a large marble “shooter” for a gazing ball, for example. Check out aquarium supplies or look for dollhouse miniatures like chairs and other items to incorporate into your design.
Water lightly after planting, then close it up and place it in indirect light. If the light is too bright, your plants will be French-fried in a hurry. Martin advises opening the lid every 10 days or so for a half day. Look for condensation after closing the lid again. If you don’t see any, lightly water plants.
What are the tricks to successful seed starting? The most sure fire I have found with a gadget is the Aerogarden with the seed starting tray. I have almost 100 percent germination rate with it.
You can also start seeds in pots you make yourself with newspaper, toilet paper cores, paper towel cores, or paper cups and sterile, organic seed starting mix. A nifty way to do it is to cut used paper towel cores into sections and line with old newspaper. You can plant the whole thing or push out the newspaper insert and compost the core.
There are also the peat pellets and peat pots. Peat is not a renewable resource, but there are substitutes for it now on the market. Just read the labels. I just bought ones made with coir at Lowe’s.
The key is using sterile seed starting mix, pots and containers. You can make your own seed starting mix with peat moss or coir (renewable), compost, and vermiculite. Just be sure to heat the compost to at least 150 degrees to kill any pathogens before using to start seeds.
Place the seeds in the starter mix in the pots and allow to wet thoroughly from the bottom (watering from the top can dislodge seeds). After fully saturated, they are ready to put in a catch pan. Make sure any catch pan that you use has been thoroughly washed in a bleach solution so all pathogens are killed. Mine has a water reservoir in the bottom of it that wicks the moisture up under the seedlings.
I put my seed starts in a plastic tray with a clear plastic lid in a sunny window that I have had for years that you can buy at any big box store. Keep moist, but not wet, and with the clear cover on until seedling emerges. Once seedling emerges, remove the clear lid.
Make sure you label your seedlings as soon as you plant them; you may think you will remember two months from now what was where, but likely not! Now is also a great time to start keeping a journal. Start tracking what you planted when so you can review next year what worked well to repeat and what didn’t work so well to tweak.
Your seedling’s first leaves are not “true” leaves, think of them as baby teeth. The second set of leaves are their true leaves. They are ready to be hardened off when they have their first set of true leaves. Seedlings must be hardened and not just thrown outside. You take them out a little at a time, gradually increasing their exposure to sun and cold, only during the daytime. I try and plant when there is a warm spell forecasted to minimize the shock.
There are great selections of herbs and veggies at nurseries and big box stores nowadays so you have great options just waiting until spring is officially here and picking up what looks good at your nearby store in a couple of months. This is also a great back up if your first seed starting adventure goes a little awry.
Indoor Seed Starting Calendar for Zone 6 Gardens
End of January into February is seed starting time indoors. I have outlined by month the plant seeds to start indoors between now and April for our Zone 6 garden.
Many big box stores will begin getting in their seeds this month. There are great varieties that can be ordered on line. See my blog side bar for the seed companies that I really like to order from.
Seed packets will tell you how far in advance of your last frost date to start your seeds indoors. Here is a web page to look up your last frost date: http://www.moongardencalendar.com/mgc/index.cfm/apps/FrostDates
January and February are cold season crops seed starting time. March and April is the time for warm season veggie and herbs to get their indoor start.
10-12 Weeks Prior (end Jan/beginning of Feb in our Zone 6 garden)
Artichokes
Arugula
Bay
Beans (dry lima)
Blackberries
Blueberries
Broccoli
Cabbage
Catnip
Celery
Chives
Edamame
Endive
Escarole
Fennel
Fruit trees bushes
Garlic
Horseradish
Leek
Lettuce
Mache
Mint
Mizuna
Onions
Parsley
Peas
Potatoes
Rhubarb
Shallots
Strawberries
Summer savory
Sorrel
Spinach
8-10 Weeks Prior (mid-February in our Zone 6 garden)
Bee balm
Celeriac
Eggplant
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lavender
Leeks
Lettuce
Lovage
Marjoram
Mustard
Onions
Oregano
Parsley
Peas
Rosemary
Scallions
Spinach
Thyme
Turnips
March
Artichokes
Broccoli
Chamomile
Chard
Cilantro
Comfrey
Fennel
Lemon verbena
Lettuce
Okra
Onions
Peppers
Raddichio
Sage
Spinach
Summer squash
Tarragon
Tomatoes
April
Basil
Beans
Cucumber
Lettuce
Melon
Winter squash
Stevia
You can also start perennial flowers indoors as well. For any plant, look at the seed packet for when to plant according to your frost date. Then back up the time from there on when to start indoors. Typical seed starting is 6-8 weeks prior to the plant out date.
For more tips, check out my blog: www.victorygardenonthegolfcourse.com
Posted: Friday, January 10, 2014 12:00 pm
The Daily Herald, Roanoke Rapids, NC
I thought this week would be a good time to round up some of the burning questions gardeners have in early January and answer them for you. Here are a few of the things people have been asking me lately.
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Friday, January 10, 2014 12:00 pm.
The Camellia Club of New Orleans will hold its 74th annual show and sale on Saturday at the Theodore Roosevelt Middle School Gymnasium, 3315 Maine Ave., Kenner. The free show opens to the public at 2 p.m.
Exhibitors from Louisiana, Texas, Mississippi, Alabama and Florida will display more types of camellias than most gardeners can imagine.
Entry is free, and anyone who grows camellias is invited to enter their blooms from 8 a.m. until judging begins at 11 a.m. The plant sale will include several popular cultivars and many newer ones. Now is a great time to plant camellias in the landscape. Free informational material on topics such as fertilizing, pruning, transplanting and camellia care will be available.
The friendly and knowledgeable club members are always happy to answer questions or attempt to identify a cultivar if you bring in a flower.
More tips:
(Posted by Boston Globe Garden Writer Carol Stocker, who will be answering horticultural questions live on-line Thursday, Jan. 9, and Jan. 16 from 1-2 p.m.)….WELLESLEY HILLS, Massachusetts— The Evening Garden Club of West Roxbury, announces plans by its state organization, The Garden Club Federation of Massachusetts, Inc. (GCFM), to host Midwinter Interlude, an afternoon of flowers, food, music and fun. The event will take place on Saturday, February 1, 2014, at the Beechwood Hotel, Worcester, MA, and will feature floral creations by several distinguished designers.
Arrangements will reflect “The Wide World of Floral Design,” with plants and color schemes conveying a global flavor. Another type of “global flavor” will be appetizers by the hotel chef Laurant Olivier and live music by the Henry Platt Quartet.
“This midwinter getaway will transport attendees to an elegant party with an international feel—without making them venture far from home,” said Marisa McCoy, GCFM president. “They will be surrounded not only by beautiful flowers and fine food, but by friendly and engaging company.”
McCoy noted that the event fills a void left by Tower Hill Botanic Garden’s decision not to host their popular Flora in Winter floral design show in 2014.
Midwinter Interlude hours are 3:30 to 6:30 PM. Tickets are $50 each, a portion of which can be tax deducted. Proceeds from the event will benefit the horticultural mission of GCFM. For ticket information, contact Bonni Asbjornson at 978-692-8685 or asbjornson@comcast.net.
The Garden Club Federation of Massachusetts (www.gcfm.org) is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization, dedicated to fostering an understanding and appreciation of horticulture, landscape and floral design, gardening, and environmental concerns. The Federation has approximately 12,000 members statewide.
The luxury Beechwood Hotel, rated four stars by AAA, is located at 363 Plantation Street, Worcester, just west of the University of Massachusetts Medical School and Lake Quinsigamond, off Route 9. It is easily accessible via Mass Pike and other major highways. For more information go to www.beechwoodhotel.com or telephone 508-754-5789.