This Saturday, the Carrboro Farmers’ Market will hold one of its big programs – the seventh annual kids’ seedling event.

Starting at 8:30 a.m., the market will give away farmer-grown tomato seedlings, which come in all sorts of varieties, to kids. Fifth Season Gardening Company will provide organic potting soil for the pots as well as growing tips and other information for new gardeners. Kids can decorate their own seedling with plant labels provided by Kidzu Children’s Museum.

In past years, the market has given away nearly 400 seedlings to kids at the event, which is held during the same weekend as the Carolina Farm Stewardship Piedmont Farm Tour, another great opportunity to teach kids where their food comes from.

“There is nothing better than seeing the big smiles of our smallest market goers as they walk away as proud owners of their new plants,” said Sarah Blacklin, the market’s manager.

We’ve always had a garden in our backyard. My kids have grown up plucking grape tomatoes off the vine, munching on fresh basil while they play in the backyard and watching to see how big a watermelon will grow.

I checked in with market staff, which provided some great tips for kids on tomato planting. Here’s what they recommend:

Planting tomatoes

• If you are using compost to fertilize, now is the time to add it to the soil where you are planting your seedling. If you are using a commercial fertilizer, follow directions on the label.
• Try to plant in partial to full sun. Tomatoes really like a lot of sun.
• Dig a hole deep enough so you can cover the bottom of the seedling up to 1 inch below the bottom leaf.
• Water when planted. Then water every other day the first week and then twice a week from then on. Keep in mind it is better to water gently yet thoroughly, say with a watering can or a drip hose than with a blast of water. Also, don’t over water because it can cause rot and dilute the flavor of your tomatoes, especially once your plant has started to fruit.
• At about four weeks, you can stake your tomato plant if you think it needs support.

Growing

• Pick weeds that come up around your tomato plant. Weeds may stunt your plant’s growth. You can put down newspaper or mulch to also keep the weeds at bay.
• Follow the watering instructions above.

Harvesting

• Your tomatoes are ripe when they are in full color (red for cherries and sweet 100s, orange for sungolds, yellow for plum and pear.)
• Pick the tomatoes by bending back the fruit at the notch of the stem.

And a couple of the market’s farmers offered these bits of wisdom:

Kevin Meehan of Turtle Run swears that, “the secret to starting your plants off right is to sing them a nice little song as you put them into the ground. It makes all the difference.”

And not all insects are bad, Meehan said.

“When it comes to your garden, ladybugs are your best friend,” he said. “They are a great defense against other pests.”

And Besty Hitt of Peregrine Farm advises that, “Sometimes you can love your plants too much. Be careful not to over-water or to touch too much.”

My pieces of advice, especially if you’re growing cherry or grape tomatoes: Make sure you actually get to taste some of those tomatoes before your kids pick them all and eat them!

 

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Published Friday, April 20, 2012 12:20 AM

By Charla Anthony
charla.anthony@theeagle.com

You can reduce the number of mosquitoes in your garden by reducing where the pests breed, pools of standing water.

While early warm spring weather and recent rainfall is welcomed, the accompanying mosquitoes are not and they are already out in force. Keeping mosquitoes at bay while you garden is certainly a challenge.

Pesky, painful mosquito bites bring uncomfortable itching and swelling, but mosquitoes also transmit diseases such as West Nile virus, Eastern Equine Encephalitis and canine heartworm disease. By eliminating sources of standing water near your house, you will significantly reduce the number of young mosquitoes that develop into disease-carrying adults

Gardeners should take steps to protect themselves from biting mosquitoes and reduce mosquito breeding sites in the landscape. Early morning and late evening are often convenient times to garden. These are, unfortunately, peak times for mosquito activity, but this doesn’t mean you have to give up gardening.

Protect yourself

To protect yourself from mosquito bites, if possible, avoid working in the garden or sitting outside at dawn and dusk. When working outside, wear protective clothing, including light colored, long-sleeved shirts and pants. Use personal repellents or wear outdoor apparel made specifically to repel biting insects.

A breeze may deter mosquitoes, so turn on porch fans or use an outdoor fan in the garden area where you are working.

Reduce mosquito breeding sites

Inspect your home and yard for sources of standing water where mosquito eggs, larvae and pupae grow. Be vigilant — do not allow water to stand for over three days in potted plant saucers or pet bowls. Change the water in birdbaths twice weekly. For convenience, locate them near an outdoor faucet and hose.

Cover rain collecting barrels. Repair leaking exterior faucets, hose bibs and hose nozzles. Drain stumps or tree holes that contain water or fill them with sand or mortar. Alter landscape irrigation practices if necessary so that no runoff is produced. This not only eliminates curbside standing water in streets, but saves you money. Resting sites for adult mosquitoes may be diminished by reducing dense vegetation. Keeping lawns mowed can reduce adult resting sites.

Clean clogged gutters and downspouts which can become prime mosquito breeding pools. Dispose of or recycle containers, such as soda cans, buckets, tires, and plastic sheeting from around your home. Periodically empty the saucers under ceramic pots to make sure they are not harboring mosquito larvae. Empty children’s wading pools and other outside toys that may hold water.

In ponds or other areas where standing water cannot be removed, use larvicides, such as mosquito dunks. These products contain Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt), a natural bacteria.

Mosquitoes can have a great impact on the outdoor activity and well being of people and pets. Take a few precautionary steps to protect yourself from mosquito bites and reduce their breeding sites near your home and in your neighborhood.

* Charla Anthony is the horticulture program assistant at Texas AgriLife Extension, Brazos County, 2619 Texas 21 W., Bryan, Texas 77803. Her email address is charla.anthony@theeagle.com.

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View full sizeRANDY RASMUSSEN/THE OREGONIANSoften the edges of hardscapes with plants and don’t be afraid to add color.Designing small spaces may be a challenge, but it’s one more and more of us must face as lots — and sometimes the energy and motivation for maintenance — shrink. Here are some things to keep in mind:

Use planters, columns, screens, art pieces and other nonpermanent items to create a space. Look at the space as a room, with plants and hardscapes as the furniture (and feel free to rearrange).

Choose plants with four seasons of interest.

Plant in layers — trees, shrubs, vines, perennials and ground covers. Even with a tiny lot, you still want trees, just in smaller scale.

Don’t be afraid to experiment and mix up styles.

Pay attention to detail. In smaller spaces, details stand out. Use things that have meaning to you or your family.

Consider maintenance. People often think it’s OK to design a high-maintenance garden in a small space because small automatically means less work, then they let deadheading, pruning and other chores slide. The result is much more evident in a tiny garden.

Soften the edges of hardscapes such as patios and pathways with plants that trail over. Or, use pots full of plants.

Repeat, but repeat with texture, form and color rather than plants. If you have all the same kind of plants in a small area, it’s boring.

Have a focal point or a wow factor. Choose dwarf or semi-dwarf conifers or shrubs with golden, blue or variegated foliage, something you look at and say, “Now, that’s cool.”

Keep hardscapes small and versatile. For instance, in one corner where you have a chair in the summer, switch to a pedestal for a plant in winter.

Don’t use just bark mulch. Use a mixture of ground covers to add interest.

— Kym Pokorny

If you want to automatically receive a free daily homes and gardens tip, sign up at OregonLive.com’s newsletters subscription site. 

Over the winter you have carefully read all websites and catalogs and made your selections. You’ve patiently waited for your new roses to arrive, and now the big day is here. A box arrives from UPS and you can’t wait to open them up and get them in the ground. But a little extra patience now can pay off big time in the quality of roses that you get the rest of the year.
Most of the roses that you receive through the mail from the major nurseries are bare-root roses. Bare-root roses are roses that are dug in fields in autumn of the previous year, placed into cold storage, and then shipped direct to you by mail, UPS, or 2nd day air. When they arrive, you will find them wrapped in plastic, perhaps with moist newspaper or some other moisture retentive material.
Typically they have no leaves and have been pruned to 3 to 5 green canes about 6″-12″ long. Some of the canes may appear very small, but don’t be fooled. Most of the time they will grow into hearty, healthy roses.

Gardening Tips: Planting Bare-Root and Potted Roses

Their roots should be substantial with a brown, moist texture. If any roots are damaged or black and soggy, they can be removed with a hand pruner. If the roots are totally dry, or if the canes show signs of desiccation (dehydrated canes will look wrinkled and dry or brownish), notify the mail- order company immediately for instructions on replacement or for a refund. Many companies will offer you a refund or replacement even if the roses are planted and don’t grow (assuming proper care on your part!). However, it is best to notify the company immediately if you believe the roses did not arrive in good condition.
Once the roses have been inspected, soak them in water with a bit of root stimulator or “Ortho Up-start” (available at all garden centers) according to directions. Adding a cup of bleach to the water will also help disinfect the roses in case any disease spores are present. Immerse the roses so that most of the rose and all of the roots are in the water. This will “rehydrate” the rose after its long shipping ordeal.
Plant immediately if possible. If weather conditions are not favorable or if you do not have time to plant them, bury the roses in loose dirt so that all the roots and the bottom half of the canes have dirt on top of them. This is referred to as “heeling in”.
Another solution is to pot them up in 3 or 5 gallon pots and wait several months to plant them. Planting a bare-root rose is a bit different than planting a potted rose. First, dig a hole about 2 feet deep and 2 feet wide. It preferable to prepare the soil in the Fall so that the soil has time to “mellow” before the roses are planted. Digging a big hole is necessary so the roots will have lots of room to grow.
If you are planting the roses in raised beds, subtract the height of the bed from the 2 foot depth. For instance, if your bed is raised above ground one foot, then dig down into the native soil one additional foot.
The soil needs to be amended so that you will get the most out of your roses. The soil mixture should be approx. 1/3 native clay soil, 1/3 sharp builders sand or perlite, and 1/3 organic matter such as peat moss, aged manure or bagged manure, compost, Nature’s Helper (available at most garden centers), mushroom compost, Jungle Growth or Majestic Professional mix– even grass clippings or shredded leaves are good Other gourmet goodies like cottonseed meal, alfalfa meal, Milorganite, or Mills Magic Rose Mix can also be added. (See issue #7 for more on soil preparation).
Or, you could purchase some pre-mixed soil from bulk distributors like Green Bros. Earthworks that are listed in the yellow pages. These pre-mixed soils are relatively cheap (except for the delivery charge) and can usually be custom mixed to your specifications. For small gardens, you may want to use a pick- up truck and pick up the mix from the distributor.
Once the soil is in place, you will need to check the pH (the soil’s acidity level). Native soil has a pH of 5.3 which is quite acid. Roses grow best with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 which is slightly acid. Use dolomitic lime according to directions on the bag to raise the pH. You can take a soil sample to your county extension office and they will analyze the soil for you and give you proper recommendations. If you don’t have your soil tested, a cup or two of lime per rose mixed into the soil will usually be adequate; although, this is not an exact method of raising the PH to the desired level.
Adding a good shovel- full of gypsum to the soil will also benefit your roses by improving the clay in the soil.
When you plant your bare-root rose, build a cone at the bottom of the hole so that when you set the rose on the cone and spread the roots around the cone the bud union (the swollen part of the rose just above the roots and root stem…see illustration) will be just above the soil level.

I recommend clipping about one inch from the tips of the roots before you plant the rose to help stimulate growth of new feeder roots. Use a shovel handle or stick and lay it across the hole to judge how high the bud union is. Put a little triple superphosphate or bone meal in the bottom of the hole. Also, mix a 1/2 cup of triple superphosphate into the remaining soil mixture, then fill the hole with this soil mixture.
Water the rose well with 1-2 gallons of water with root stimulator, this gets rid of any air holes in the soil. Then pile up a mulch like mini-nuggets over the bud union and the bottom half of the canes to keep them from drying out until the roots get established.
Remove this dirt or mulch 3 or 4 weeks later once new growth has started and water your roses if less than 1″ of rain falls per week.
When you water your roses, water an entire 20″ circle around the rose so that all the roots get water.
Do not fertilize your new roses until at least one month after they are planted and then only use a liquid fertilizer to start off with until the roots are fully established.
Fish emulsion is a good starter fertilizer that your roses will love. After that, any good rose fertilizer will suffice.
If the roses you ordered were potted roses, or if you just buy potted roses from a local nursery, the routine is slightly different. Potted roses can stay in their pots for as long as it takes you to plant. In fact, many roses you buy locally may have been grown in Florida and may benefit from a few more weeks in the pot to get used to our climate and to avoid any setbacks from an occasional cold night in March or April.
Soil preparation is the same for potted roses as it is for bare-root except that you don’t need to build a mound to spread the roots on. Just dig the hole to the proper depth and put some triple superphosphate in the bottom of the hole. When you take the rose out of the pot, it is important to try and not disturb the root system. This can be done by cutting away the pot or turning the pot upside down on the palm of your hand and then inverting it into the hole. I like the inverting method, but it does take a little practice.
Water the potted rose with root stimulator and then make sure the ground does not dry out over the next few weeks while the roots are getting established. This means watering it deeply every few days if it does not rain. And by all means, get a rain gauge so you know how much it has rained during the week. They are inexpensive and they eliminate the guess work. Believe me, it is hard to determine how much rain falls at a time…a rain gauge is a must.
Finally, mulch around the potted rose, but it is not necessary to pile mulch over the lower part of the canes or the bud union like you do for bare-root roses. Just make sure the mulch is a few inches thick around the rose to help conserve moisture and stabilize the soil temperature.
Well, that’s all there is to it! Once your roses are in the ground, get set to be dazzled with gorgeous blooms. Oh, just one more thing, your roses will need proper maintenance to perform at their peak, but that is another topic for another issue.

Want to grow your own veggies?

Broward County is hosting a gardening demonstration Thursday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at the downtown Governmental Center Annex, 115 South Andrews Ave., Fort Lauderdale.

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Master Gardener Michael Madfis will offer gardening tips and answer questions.

You’ll also receive free vegetable seedlings to replant, including okra, Asian long beans, peppers and eggplant.

Fort Lauderdale Vegetables is co-sponsoring the event and will provide more than 600 seedlings, which will be available on a first come, first served basis.

“Every day more and more families are making the connection between living healthier lifestyles and the role of nutrition,” said William Green, administrator with the County’s Health Care Services Section. “With the price of fresh fruits and vegetables becoming out of reach for some families, many are turning to meaningful ways of reducing costs through home gardening programs. Not only are families saving money, but by making home gardening a family activity, their quality of life is enhanced.”

Other “Healthy Counties, Healthy Families” events in Broward County include a free Chair Yoga class at Anne Kolb Nature Center, 751 Sheridan St. in Hollywood, on Sunday at noon. After the class, participants can take a free guided Nature Stroll beginning at 1 p.m.

For more information on other events, go to broward.org/healthycounty.

sbryan@tribune.com or 954-356-4554

Gardening experts in Wokingham and Bracknell are offering tips to local people on how to cope with the hosepipe ban starting next week.

Bracknell Horticultural Association has organised a Hosepipe Ban Open Forum next week where people can discuss what the ban will mean for gardeners and get tips on how to get the most from gardens during the drought.

Members of the association will be joined by representatives from South East Water, including Douglas Whitfield, head of operations, and Rachel Lawson, communications officer for metering, to answer any questions raised.

There will also be a focus on the various concessions allowed under the ban, how these are implemented and what the wider implications of climate change are for gardeners.

Jenny Gilbert, from Wokingham Horticultural Association, said gardeners could cope with the ban by having water butts to collect rainwater throughout the year and by using plants that thrive in dry seasons, such as cactus plants and succulent plants that retain water better.

Mrs Gilbert said: “The plants that like the dry season look very nice.

“Some people have a water irrigation system that just waters the plants when they need it.

“Also, when you plant you can try soaking plants as you plant them as that usually stands them in very good stead and you can keep watering them at a minimum.”

The ban was announced earlier this month by South East Water and Thames Water after two “abnormally dry winters in a row”.

Customers will not be able to use hosepipes for watering gardens, washing cars, patios and boats and for filling swimming and paddling pools, ponds and fountains.

The Hosepipe Ban Open Forum will take place on Wednesday, April 4, at Coopers Hill Centre in Bracknell from 7.30pm.

Entry is free.

NIAGARA FALLS —
Steve Boka opened a garden center 30 years ago because he got tired of arguing with people.

Boka had originally created a farmer’s market called Boka Farms on the Pendleton site at Lockport Road and Campbell Boulevard.   But, he grew weary of people haggling over the price of a few bananas and then walking over to his garden section and happily   spending all kinds of money for beautiful flowers and garden accessories. “I found out people would rather spend their money   on flowers.”

These days Boka Farms is noted for its gargoyles and other outdoor statues. There are lions and eagles and even a Snow White   and several of the dwarfs. “You got to put on a big show,” he says of his huge statue inventory, much of which can be seen   from the road. “If you don’t go into it big you should stay out of the business.”

Boka’s been selling garden products for a long time, but the customer he sells to today is different than the customer years   ago. “The older generation bought perennials,” he said. They are happy to dig and plant in their gardens, but the younger   generation seems to want quicker rewards. “Their concern is about how their patio will look when they have their party this   weekend.”

Trends over the past few years have also learned towards the kind of giant, colorful hanging plants that Boka said his center   is noted for. And, people like their vegetables to grow in pots — on the backyard patio.

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Over at Alcliff’s Landscaping Nursery,  1975 Military Road, the early spring has kick started everything three to six weeks   ahead of schedule, according to owner Marty LaMarca.”This is the earliest we’ve ever shredded dirt,” he said, and the recent 80 degree weather had visitors looking for      flowers about two months too soon. Mother’s Day is the recommended date for plantings, but “people have the spring bug,” he said.LaMarca said the temperatures are likely to wreak havoc with fruit trees, which may bloom too soon, and an expected return  to seasonal temperatures will mean there are no bees to pollenate them. But, the weather does lure people into readying their gardens earlier each season.

“People are buying more mulch and doing their beds earlier, “ he said, noting they seem to prefer the new dyed mulches, especially  mulch dyed black or red.

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Sharon Howarth, landscape designer at Menne’s Nursery on Niagara Falls Boulevard in North Tonawanda said when it comes to   flowers, the newest craze is hybrid hydrangeas, a flower popular with gardeners because of its large ornamental flower head.   A new line of hydrangeas, the Cityline — which has varieties with names like Berlin, Paris and Venice — is particularly popular   because of the ease of maintenance compared to most hydrangeas.

“I think the general trend is towards plants that will bloom for longer periods of time and don’t need a lot of maintenance,”   Howarth said. “Most hydrangeas bloom at one point in the year and need special pruning.”

Cityline hydrangeas, though, are in constant bloom from the end of July right up until the frost, she said.

For garden decor, Howarth said she sees an interest in natural looking fountains instead of the more traditional statues of   perhaps a woman pouring water from a vase.

“We’re carrying more fountains that look natural … they might look like a log flume or a rock,” she said.

And like many industries, “going green” is a big buzz word in the gardening world. Howarth said Menne’s Nursery has started   carrying a line of outdoor furniture made from recycled milk jugs and eucalyptus wood, which is crop-grown and renewable.

***

Regardless of the trends, those in the gardening industry know one thing for sure. “You know why people buy flowers,” Steve  Boca said. “It makes them feel good.”

 

Brian Panessa, owner of Hilltop Farms Garden Center in Croton-on-Hudson, New York is a former investment advisor who turned his passion into his business in 2009. Brian offers tips and advice for getting your garden ready for spring. Hilltop Farms, known for their landscape design services, is running a Garden Makeover contest, enter to win by submitting a 200 word description of why your garden, or someone you know, deserves a makeover and send a photo to info(at)hilltopfarmsmarket(dot)com

New York, NY (PRWEB) March 29, 2012

The crocuses have been up early this year, the air is warming up quickly, so what should you be doing to get your garden ready? Brian Panessa, owner of Hilltop Farms Garden Center in Croton-on-Hudson, offers some tips.

One of the easiest things to do while you’re waiting for the ideal planting day is to clear any leaves or debris that have gathered in drainage areas over the winter. Seedlings always do better in soil that drains well so now is the best time to clear specific areas before bushes and trees begin to sprout. You can use any decaying material for composting.

Early spring is an excellent time to rake the lawn and begin to introduce light and air into the soil for stronger grass growth. Add lime to your soil if it has a pH below 6.2 as it should be added several weeks before planting. Re-seed areas that need it by using a metal rake to break up the hard bare areas and give the seeds ample opportunity to grow and be sure to water often.

Spring is also a good time to transplant any bushes, trees or shrubs because of the relatively consistent moisture in the soil. Be sure to dig down under the root ball to avoid cutting any roots and place the plant into a large enough hole to back fill with soil, compost and organic fertilizer.

Start looking for, and removing, early spring weeds. Roots are shallow now so they are easier to pull. It is also a good time to mulch in any bed areas that are bare to minimize the growth of weeds. Be sure to spread to a thickness of 3-4 inches. Some gardeners use this time to put down plastic sheeting to reduce weed growth, then mulch on top. Remember to keep mulch a few inches away from young trunks to reduce the possibility of rot that could occur around small trees and shrubs.

While we had a mild winter this year, we were hit with that ferocious October snow storm last year and many trees and shrubs suffered broken limbs and trunk damage. Now is a good time to assess the damage and properly deal with any branches or bushes that have experienced a break of some kind.

If you have an established bed, don’t dig; you could disturb a complex ecosystem which is already functioning well. Instead add nutrients from the top and let them work their way down into the soil. If you have perennials in that garden however, this is a good time to split or divide them while roots are still short.

There are several early spring vegetables that you can plant once the ground is free of ice crystals. Peas, spinach, and lettuce all do well planted early. After 2-3 weeks you can plant broccoli, cabbage, kale and other hardy vegetables. Remember to cover anything you plant early with some protection should a frost be predicted. This is also an excellent time to plant bulbs.

Early spring gardening can go a long way to ensuring you have a healthier and more robust landscape this year.

According to various studies, well done landscape design can improve a home’s value by up to 12% and homeowners can see a 100% – 200% return on their investment. For landscape design ideas and outdoor living environment options, contact Hilltop Farms in Croton on Hudson at http://www.hilltopfarmsmarket.com or call 914-358-1531.

Enter to Win a Garden Makeover from Hilltop Farms!

Hilltop Farms located in Croton-on-Hudson is looking for a garden in need of a makeover. To kick off the spring gardening season, they will select one Westchester resident to receive a complete garden bed makeover valued at $2,500. To enter, send a photo of your garden and in 200 words or less indicate why you feel your garden should be selected. Submissions should be sent to info(at)hilltopfarmsmarket(dot)com or they can be dropped off at Hilltop Farms located at 2028 Albany Post Road. Entries must be received by May 1st. The winner will be announced on Mother’s Day, May 13th at Hilltop Farm during their Mother’s Day Tea on the Porch event. Questions should be directed to 914-358-1531.

UPCOMING EVENTS AT HILLTOP INCLUDE:

Saturday, March 31, 10am – 11am

Wake Up Your Garden for Spring

Learn how to prepare your landscape for spring, how to sow an edible garden, plant early spring vegetables and cold crops, and how to feed your evergreens.

Saturday, April 14

The Power of Herbs

Bonnie Rogers, local Herbalist Wellness Coach, will discuss developing a healthier lifestyle through the use of herbs including growing medicinal herbs, herbs for digestive and anxiety support as well as growing culinary spices.

Sunday, April 22

Earth Day Workshops For Kids and Adults!

Celebrate Earth Day at Hilltop Farms. Join Tony from Jonathan Green for an Eco Friendly Lawn Care workshop and at the same time the kids can attend My First Garden workshop where they’ll create their own little garden in an ‘eco-friendly container’.

Saturday, April 28, 10am – 11am

Landscape Design for Improving Your Home’s Value

Learn how a well planned and effective landscape design can actually improve your home’s value by up to 12% in a one hour workshop. Bring photos of your home’s site for a brief consultation.

Saturday, May 5, 10am – 11am

Creating a Deer Proof Garden

A lively discussion on how to create a landscape you love and one that deer won’t! Topics will include installing deer fencing, using deer spray, and which plant materials are more deer resistant than others.

Saturday, May 5, 11am – Noon

Composting for a Healthier Lifestyle

Composting is a wonderful way to help the environment and help your family. Learn how to begin composting with Hilltop Farms experts.

Sunday, May 13

Mother’s Day Tea on the Porch

Hilltop Farms will once again offer “Mother’s Day Tea on the Porch.” Come over and enjoy a cup of tea or coffee from the Hilltop Farms café and let mom choose her favorite plant or garden decoration as a gift. Hilltop Farms will announce the winner of our Garden Makeover Contest at this event so be sure to enter to win and then join them to hear if your garden is the winner!

Visit http://www.hilltopfarmsmarket.com for more information. Questions can be directed to 914-358-1531.

For the original version on PRWeb visit: http://www.prweb.com/releases/prwebgardening_tips/landscape_design/prweb9344499.htm

This doesn’t sound like a great idea to all gardeners, those who don’t want the crows, jay, or song birds getting to the ripe raspberries or blueberries before they do. But to bird lovers, this is a very natural desire. Many bird enthusiasts who also enjoy gardening will grow a section of the garden or a separate plot just for their feathered friends. No scare crow will grace that garden, that’s for sure. You look forward to chickadees flitting around as you tend your plants, hummingbirds sipping nectar nearby, and grosbeaks enjoying the dried berries on back yard bushes. Here’s a general plan that will allow you to attract a wonderful variety of birds to your garden. In just a few steps you’ll create an environment that will be very hospitable to them.

How to Attract Birds to your Garden

First of all, have a feeder or two out during the offseason for the garden so that non-migratory birds will get in the habit of looking for food in your backyard. In turn, they will attract seasonal birds who return from warmer climates. Next winter you’ll need fewer artificial feeders, and we’ll show you why shortly. You can probably guess!

Secondly, provide watering spot for visiting birds. A bird bath or several waterers hanging in the yard will do the job nicely. A ground-based bird bath provides a more natural look and feel, but also represents a threat if neighborhood cats are active.

Thirdly, since birds require shelter, plant bushes and trees near the perimeter of your garden, if none exist, or choose to place your bird plot near existing trees. When startled, the birds will scatter to them until the coast is clear. If the trees are large enough, some birds might also choose them for nesting. Evergreens are especially nice since they provide shelter even when the trees are relatively young. Supplying your yard with several bird houses might also invite more permanent guests to the vicinity. Trees and bird houses can be expensive, you work within your budget.

Finally, the most obvious need is for food, so grow the kinds of things birds will enjoy, and let them have their pick of it. Sunflowers are a great choice, since birds love them and they provide high protein for them. Grow a large plot of them, and then let them dry in place for the birds to eat off the flower in autumn and winter. Do the same with grains that birds love, such as winter wheat, milo, millet, and sorghum. You may have to visit your local farming co-op to get some of these seeds, but the birds will gravitate to them quickly, since they form the primary ingredients in most bird seed mixes. Many common weeds and wildflowers are also bird favorites, such as thistle and Common Mullein. If you don’t want to grow weeds, at least don’t cut them down. Seeing a finch enjoying seeds right off the plant is a wonderful sight. Also stock your garden with bright red flowers that will attract the hummingbirds in the area, and grow nectar producing flowers like lilies and gladiolus they’ll love once they arrive.

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(WCAU) — With sun, warmth and flowers in bloom it’s natural to want to start planting.

But there’s a reason why you see mostly pansies at this garden store and no tomato plants because it is still too early for them and other vegetables.

Sally McCabe from the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society says if you buy them now, you’ll end up buying them again in about a month.

It’s also too early for tomatoes, peppers and squash.

Also, don’t automatically pass on garden centers because you think plants are more expensive, that could be a waste as well.

You’re going save some money at the big box store, but the big box store is there to sell you the plants then sell them to you again and again.

Another waste is weed killer if you use it when the lawn is wet.

And right now, Bruce Albrecht, a nursery owner, says you could be wasting $20-30 dollars, no matter what the conditions, because it’s too early.

“If you’re gonna put weed killer down now, you’re going to end up doing it again in mid to late May,” said Albrecht.

And if you’re a beginning gardener, stay far, far away from a roto tiller, until you know exactly what size you need and how they work.

Your best bet right now that’s not a waste is to plant pansies.

But even with these hearty plants make sure to comparison shop.

You may be surprised at the differences.

WCAU