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Ruth’s tips: Ice plant on the mind

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Walnut Creek’s Ruth Bancroft is a national authority on drought-resistant gardening. Twice a month she and her staff share their knowledge with readers.

Q Do any of the most beautiful Drosanthemum varieties bloom more than for about two weeks? I am looking for a beautiful ground cover that will bloom for most of the spring/summer season.

A Though some ice plants, including Drosanthemum speciosum and many kinds of Lampranthus, put on a short-lived spectacle, there are others that bloom over a longer period of time.

At the Ruth Bancroft Garden, our Malephora crocea keep on producing flowers all year long, although there is a more intense concentration in spring. This species has orange or coppery-salmon flowers about 2 inches across, and blue-green fingerlike leaves up to 2½ inches long, although usually less.

As mentioned previously about Drosanthemum, D. micans is reported by Annie’s Annuals to repeat bloom through much of the year — although not with the intensity of its spring display — especially in coastal locations.

We have not had it planted out for long enough to know if this will be the case in Walnut Creek.

Q Are there any taller-growing ice plants?

A Yes, we have a bush-forming species named Lampranthus roseus that gets to 3 to 4 feet tall. It makes a spectacular show in spring, completely covering itself in lavender-pink flowers,

but does not flower at other times of year.

Q I read the column about the Drosanthemum ice plants, and am wondering if these would thrive in the Los Altos climate. We have creeping thyme in our boulevard strip, but it has developed lots of dead patches. What would you suggest?

A Drosanthemums would be well-suited to Los Altos, as well as other parts of the Bay Area, and they could be used among the thyme for bursts of color.

Like many kinds of ice plant with intense concentrations of flowering, they can over time develop dead patches where branches seem to bloom themselves out, so some occasional pruning might be necessary.

One winter-flowering species that forms tight clumps and does not need any pruning is Cephalophyllum ‘Red Spike,’ with bright magenta blossoms.

Q If you deadhead ice plants, will that encourage them to re-bloom, or is it just one time?

A Many plants can be encouraged to extend their flowering period by deadheading, so that they do not cease blooming and put their energy into seed production. However, this does not seem to have much effect with Drosanthemums.

Still, cutting out the spent flowers may be desirable to keep the plants looking neat, especially in situations such as a planter on a deck, where they are seen close-up.

If you have a question for the Ruth Bancroft Garden, email info@ruthbancroftgarden.org. For tour and event information, visit www.ruthbancroftgarden.org.

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Rex’s Tips: Squash bugs and pesticides

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Squash Bug | Photo by William Kruidenier with permission, http://williamkruidenier.blogspot.com/2010/06/squash-bug-life-cycle.html


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Outside of the weather, harmful garden pests is the most challenging aspect of successful gardening. The weather you can’t do much about, but you can successfully battle most garden pests.

It’s important to understand that although pesticides are for the most part safe, they are still poisons, and it’s best to minimize their use as much as possible. Personally, I don’t have a problem using pesticides when necessary, but I don’t use them much.

I have already written about how I deal with the corn borer without using pesticides, I use vegetable oil on the silk instead. Here is a short list of useful tips on controlling garden pests:

1.        If weeds are kept out of the garden, and out of your surrounding yard, this is a good, first step to controlling pests.

2.        With good, rich soil, and plenty of humus, crops will grow quickly and the pest problem will be minimized.

Tomato hornworms can be expected on your tomatoes, and if not removed, they can strip your tomatoes of their foliage – and your tomatoes – so they must be dealt with.

Pesticides will kill the hornworm, but most of us only have a few tomato plants, and a few minutes a day examining your tomatoes will allow you to see the worms—and simply pull them off and step on them. If you’re squeamish, put a glove on one hand and pull them off with that hand. There are two signs of the hornworm: missing foliage, and the telltale signs of their small, dark droppings on the leaves, in the crotches of the branches, or on the ground.

Hornworms are difficult to see because they blend in to the exact color of the vines and leaves. Take your time, look closely, and look for the worms and their evidence, and you’ll see them.

Squash bugs are extremely prolific and very destructive. You must either deal with these obnoxious pests or surrender your garden to them. They will infest all cucurbits (melons, cucumbers, squash, etc). Certain cultural practices can help too, discussed in earlier articles of Rex’s Tips as hyperlinked  for tomatoes, melons and driplines.

Squash bugs prefer yellow crookneck summer squash, and they prefer this variety over zucchini and other squashes, although I don’t find them very discriminating.

If you use drip lines, and as the plants grow, move the lines further away from the plant base. Squash bugs like moist areas around the base of the plants, so removing the moisture from that area greatly reduces the attractiveness of the plant base.

Squash Bug eggs | Photo by William Kruidenier with permission, http://williamkruidenier.blogspot.com/2010/06/squash-bug-life-cycle.html

Each day, examine the vine leaves for the eggs of the squash bugs, and squish these with your fingers. Squash bugs will lay eggs both under the leaves, and on top of the leaves. Squash has small spines that are rough on the hands, so wear gloves for this task. As the garden gets bigger, examining all the leaves can be a bit of a chore, but still try to spend a few minutes each day looking for eggs, and eliminating them before they hatch. Plus, you must destroy the nymphs (baby bugs) and any adults you find. Lift up the ends of the squash plants and look for bugs, and squish them on the spot.

Pesticides are not effective against adult squash bugs, and sprays or powders must be sprayed on the underside of plants and leaves to get to where the bugs are, and this is difficult to do. I do not even attempt to spray for squash bugs, but it can be done. In warm weather, squash plants will grow rapidly and produce quickly, so if squash bugs get too bad, I will take out the old plants, destroy all the bugs, and plant again.

Pests on other garden crops

There is no need to spray peas, beets, broccoli, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and most other garden crops. Some will get aphids and other chewing bugs on them, but they will not do enough damage to worry about.

Home remedies

Some home remedies are also effective and worth using against garden pests.

A mixture of Tabasco sauce and water is an effective pesticide against some pests, especially aphids. This could be used on broccoli, for example, if it gets aphids—and the broccoli is still edible. Cayenne pepper also works.

Vinegar is also effective against ants and other pests.

Remember also, that a mixture of powdered milk and water sprayed on tomato vines is an effective repellent to beet leafhoppers who carry the deadly curly top virus.

Healthy, fast growing garden crops are the best defense against unwanted insects. Good cultivation practices will also minimize the adverse affects of pests. Eliminate all weeds in your yard (and get your neighbors to do the same) and you will have fewer pests to deal with.

Also eliminate the places where bugs, squash bugs, and aphids winter over, hibernate, and launch forth in the spring and summers; places like wood piles, stacks of lumber, trash, junk and weeds.

Crop rotation is also important. If squash bugs are a serious problem in your garden, consider not growing any cucurbits (squash, melons, pumpkins) for one year. Squash bugs are not attracted to anything else in the garden.

For other problems that can occur by abuse of chemicals, click here.

email: news@stgnews.com

twitter: @STGnews

Copyright 2012 St. George News.

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Gardening tips for the week ahead: prevent pests

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Systemic sprays can be very helpful if used early. Spray sparingly, in the
evening, and avoid plants in flower. Here are some specific examples.

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Master gardeners offer tips for neophytes

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COLUMBUS — Gardening can be a bit of trial and error, especially for beginners.

Jerry Killham is about to find that out as he tries his hand at growing vegetables in the Columbus Community Garden.

He and other family members are giving gardening a try this year, and started prepping his plot of land this week by planting potatoes.

With the warm weather experienced earlier this spring, several gardeners have reaped the benefits. They were able to plant some vegetables last month and have been enjoying them already.

Joyce Strnad planted radishes March 20 and has picked a few.

Other vegetables that the veteran gardener has been able to plant are also peeking through the dirt in her plot in the Community Garden.

Organizers in charge of the Community Garden are suggesting that people start their planting on May 15. For newcomers to the horticulture world, local master gardeners held a question and answer event this week at the garden to give advice.

Master Gardener Peg Wurdinger gave the following recommendations to those who are starting a garden of their own.

n Start small: You might be gung-ho now to begin your garden, but don’t let that enthusiasm go overboard by creating a garden plot that is too big for you to handle. Wurdinger said a plot measuring six feet by eight feet is a good size to start with.

n Consider a container garden: If space is an issue, look to grow lettuce, tomatoes and other veggies in baskets and planters.

“I have onions and lettuce growing in containers on my patio,” Wurdinger said.

n Grow what you like to eat: It seems like a no-brainer, but you want to be able to enjoy the vegetables that you do grow, so plant your favorites.

n Add flowers for color: If you are a flower lover, include a few in your garden. Some flowers actually are beneficial to plant along side vegetables because they can attract helpful insects and deter pests.

Plots available: Two plots in the Columbus Community Garden, 370 10th Ave., are still available. Applications can be picked up at First United Methodist Church Christian Center, 2472 32nd Ave., in the Northtown Mall.

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Gardening Tips: Why Aren’t My Plants Growing Right – Could It Be the pH?

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What is soil pH? Soil pH is the measurement of the concentration of hydrogen ions in a soil. By definition a hydrogen ion is an electrically charged atom or molecule. The more hydrogen ions present in the soil, the more acidic, the fewer ions present the more alkaline a soil will be. Very scientific isn’t it? In gardener and greenhouse grower terms, pH is the measurement of how “sweet” (alkaline) or how “sour” (acid) a soil is, whether that soil be garden soil or a soilless mix.

A sliding scale is used to measure pH with readings between 0 and 7 showing an increase in acidity and between 7 and 14 showing an increase in alkalinity, with 7 being neutral. A very important measurement, pH should not be taken lightly, because pH effects how your plants grow. Your soils ph levels should be checked each year before planting.

Gardening Tips: Why Aren’t My Plants Growing Right – Could It Be the pH?

There are different ways to do this. Take soil samples from different areas in your garden and send it out to your local cooperative extension. They will return to you a comprehensive list of the elements present in your soil and what to do to make adjustments, if necessary. Local garden centers sell pH-testing kits that contain dyes that are mixed with the soil and water and compared to a color chart to determine pH. Usually acid soils return a yellowy-orange color and alkaline give a greenish-blue result. The ideal pH level for gardens, lawns and vegetables is a range from 6.0 to 7.0. Ornamentals like a range of 5.5 to 6.5.

Too high or too low pH levels affect the plants ability to absorb nutrients that are present in the soil, this includes soilless mixes as well. Nitrogen becomes unavailable to plants at a pH below 4.6, likewise, phosphorous at 4.7 and potassium at 4.9. However, there are some plants that prefer and tolerate strong acid soils, for example, azalea, rhododendrons, blueberries and white potatoes. Soil pH also influences the effects on the activity of beneficial microorganisms. In strong acid soils, bacteria cannot breakdown organic matter, thus allowing the organic matter to accumulate to high levels, which then ties up the nitrogen that is contained within it.

Areas that receive heavy rainfall tend to have acidic soils and light rainfall areas tend to have and alkaline soil. How do you make adjustments? One key ingredient used to decrease acid levels is lime, which counteracts the acidifying nature of fertilizers and rainfall. It is added to increase your pH and also has the advantage of adding calcium and magnesium to the soil. The amount of lime applied to amend a soil is determined by a few factors: what the present soil pH level is, is the soil sand, clay or silt, and what are the pH preferences of the plants you will be growing. Three types of lime are available from garden centers; hydrated, which is best for a garden because it is quick acting, crushed, which is slower acting and longer lasting and dolomitic lime, which is very good because it contains the trace element magnesium.

Lime’s main function, in addition to adjusting acid levels, is to “unlock” much needed nutrients in the soil that become unavailable to plants because of high acid levels. Sulfur decreases alkalinity and is used less often because soils tend to be acidic more often.

The plants you are going to grow in containers pre-determine the type of soilless media you should use. Acid loving plants should be grown in a media that has a low pH level and alkaline lovers in a high pH mix. Levels can change during the course of the growing season and there are ways to correct pH in containers. Chemical fertilizers, except calcium nitrate, lower the pH of a soil by producing acids as they decompose. Calcium Nitrate, a form of nitrogen found in some fertilizers, is used to mitigate the effects of soil acidity, so your readings will determine which fertilizer you will be using at any given time. Checking the containers pH, using a pH meter, is much more convenient than taking soil samples. Check the pH often.

TO RECAP:
1. pH is a measurement of the soils acid and alkaline levels
2. pH effects the plants ability to take up nutrients
3. ideal levels are 6.0 to 7.0, exceptions being acid loving azalea and rhododendrons
4. test the soil by sending samples to your local county extension or by using a pH test kit or meter
5. too low a ph or too high causes nutrients to become “locked-up” in the soil
6. add lime to increase the pH and “unlock nutrients”. Sulfur is used to lower pH.
7. there are three kinds of lime available: hydrated, crushed and dolomitic
8. soilless media used in container crops can have pH levels adjusted by using different types of fertilizers
9. “sweet” soils are alkaline and “sour” soils are acidic.
10. pH levels change slowly. Check the pH every year. Do not assume your plants need fertilizer if they are not growing to their potential. Check the pH first!

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Miracle-Gro Introduces New Gardening Innovations: It’s Never Been Easier to …

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MARYSVILLE, Ohio, April 25, 2012 /PRNewswire via COMTEX/ —
Cooks and gardeners alike know that fresh herbs and produce not only look great, but also taste incredible. This spring, Miracle-Gro introduces three innovative gardening products that make it easier than ever to grow delicious vegetables and herbs: the Ultimate Raised Garden Bed, Culinary Herb Garden, and Culinary Herb Kit.

The Ultimate Raised Garden Bed is an easy-to-assemble elevated garden. Designed for use with Miracle-Gro soils, just one large bag of Miracle-Gro Expand ‘n Gro Concentrated Planting Mix fills each bed. The frame is assembled quickly, without tools, offering versatility to grow produce in compact spaces, like on rooftops, patios, lawns and decks. Constructed from recycled resin, the long-lasting modular units are stackable or may be used to create a side-by-side garden easily in any space.

Both the Culinary Herb Garden and the Culinary Herb Kit contain everything to grow herbs indoors year-round — including enriched Miracle-Gro Potting Mix. It has never been easier to transform everyday dishes with fresh, tasty herbs. Miracle-Gro Culinary Herb Garden grows three herbs in a mini Gro-Bag. The Culinary Herb Kit features a bag of Miracle-Gro Potting Mix for cultivating one herb. Both options make it easy to grow abundant fresh herbs right on the windowsill.

“Miracle-Gro’s new gardening innovations are so exciting for those of us who enjoy growing our own edibles. Whether consumers want access to the most popular culinary herbs in their kitchens or want to step out the back door to pick freshly grown tomatoes, they now have some great new options. We didn’t just design these products for gardening experts, anyone can use them!” said Sara Gordon, Director Global Innovation.

Miracle-Gro Ultimate Raised Garden Bed as well as Miracle-Gro Culinary Herb Garden and Kit are currently available at select retailers throughout the country.

For more information on Miracle-Gro Ultimate Raised Garden Beds, Miracle-Gro Culinary Herb Gardens and Miracle-Gro Culinary Herb Kits, or additional tips on caring for your garden, visit
www.miraclegro.com .

About ScottsMiracle-Gro

With approximately $3 billion in worldwide sales, The Scotts Miracle-Gro Company, through its wholly-owned subsidiary, The Scotts Company LLC, is the world’s largest marketer of branded consumer products for lawn and garden care. The Company’s brands are the most recognized in the industry. In the U.S., the Company’s Scotts®, Miracle-Gro® and Ortho® brands are market-leading in their categories, as is the consumer Roundup® brand, which is marketed in North America and most of Europe exclusively by Scotts and owned by Monsanto. In Europe, the Company’s brands include Weedol®, Pathclear®, Evergreen®, Levington®, Miracle-Gro®, KB®, Fertiligene® and Substral®. For additional information, visit us at
www.scotts.com .

SOURCE The Scotts Company

Copyright (C) 2012 PR Newswire. All rights reserved

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Gardener: Try these mowing tips to keep your lawn healthy

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On any Saturday morning, America starts its engines for that weekly ritual of mowing. As the symphony of engines roars to a start, the silence of an otherwise peaceful morning is broken, and an estimated 54 million lawns are cut — every week during the spring and summer.

Mowing at my house awakens no neighbor. My lawn is small enough to mow with a new version of an old classic, the reel mower. Modern technology combined with classic style and functionality creates the best of both worlds. As I quietly perform that necessary ritual, I enjoy knowing that my push-powered mower adds no environmental or noise pollution.

Whatever your tool of choice, here are some pointers on how to mow for a healthier lawn and environment:

First off, make sure your blade is sharp. Tearing, as with a dull blade, as opposed to shearing with a sharp blade, is a night-and-day difference. Tearing creates jagged edges, makes for longer recovery time and allows more opportunities for pests and diseases to move in.

Minimize the trauma to grass blades. Cut no more than one-third of the blade’s length. We “prune” our lawns — taking off more than a third in one cutting may cause more stress than the plant’s ability to fully recover. Such stress can take its toll, especially during hot and dry — or even persistently damp — conditions.

Another reason to mow high is that the taller the blade, the deeper the roots, and the deeper the roots, the more drought-tolerant your lawn is.

Need another reason? Taller grass shades out competing weeds that need bright sunlight to establish and thrive. Although certain weeds may sprout, they may not become as prominent if they can’t get the required sunlight. And during the high heat of summer, raise the mower even higher to help the grass conserve water and overcome heat stress.

If possible, don’t mow wet grass. Mowing grass when it’s wet will cause uneven shearing and leave behind wet clumps, which can become matted, and suffocate other areas of your lawn, leaving dead patches. Even worse, wet grass can be more easily spread disease.

To bag or not to bag? Grass cycling is the natural recycling of grass clippings by leaving them on the lawn when mowing, rather than bagging and removing them. It’s such a simple way to mow, and a great timesaver. In fact, studies indicate that when you leave grass clippings on the lawn, as they decompose they contribute enough organic matter and nitrogen to reduce fertilization needs by about 25 percent a year.

You’ll also be relieved to know that grass cycling does not promote weed growth as long as you mow on a consistent basis. Accordingly, you’ll reduce the chances of weeds going to seed and being disbursed naturally. This may necessitate that you cut your grass a bit more frequently, especially during peak growing times, but it’s also a great way to make sure you don’t remove too much of the grass blades at one time.

And contrary to what some believe, grass cycling does not promote thatch. Abundant research disproves the common misconception. Thatch buildup is caused by grass stems, shoots and roots, not grass clippings. Clippings, which consist of about 75 percent water, decompose quickly while adding nutrients to the soil.

Lawns have a bad reputation as water hogs, and yet they don’t require a daily or even semi-daily soaking. On average, lawns need about 1 inch of water a week in the absence of rain. Well-established, properly maintained lawns can get by on even less. Healthy lawns are quick to recover, too. My lawn gets water only when it loses its sheen and doesn’t spring back to life when stepped on. The system is a great way to conserve water, toughen up a lawn, and also keep weeds at bay.

Joe Lamp’l, host of “Growing a Greener World” on PBS, is a master gardener and author. For more information visit www.joegardener.com. For more stories, visit scrippsnews.com.

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Passing on gardening tips

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Published on Monday 23 April 2012 23:58

MELTON in Bloom passed on some of its horticultural know-how to budding gardeners to celebrate the Royal Horticultural Society’s gardening week.

The team was joined by pupils from Knossington Grange Therapeutic School as they got stuck in planting flowers in the heritage gardens at Melton Council’s Parkside offices.

The boys from the school are all working towards horticultural qualifications and as a result relished the opportunity to gain hands-on experience planting colourful flowers for the community to enjoy.

The residential school provides support to boys aged eight to 16 who have social, emotional or behavioural difficulties.

Marie Walters, chairwoman of Melton in Bloom, said: “The Royal Horticultural Society aims to encourage people to become passionate about horticulture either as a profession or a hobby.

“It is all about learning and participation, therefore it was great that the boys got the opportunity to work with us and learn from us.”


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Gardening Tips: How to select garden plants

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While there is more to a beautiful garden than just the plants, they are certainly the main attraction! Stones, trellises, barriers, statuary, and other items may dot your patch of paradise, but without plants you really cherish, chances are your garden won’t bring you as much pleasure as it should. Let’s take a look at how to select garden plants that will be just right for you.

First of all, do some research in plant encyclopedias or online to discover the kinds of plants you think you’ll like the most. Plants have distinct personalities, and they are always somewhat different in person than when you learn about them from a book or website. But doing some homework will be enjoyable and will get you started in a direction that will yield the best results. Make a list of plants you want, and make sure that they are suited to your region’s temperature zone and precipitation levels. You should be able to find that information in the books or on the sites you use for research.

How to select garden plants

Secondly, choose plants of various sizes and widths to create a pleasant variety in your garden. Having all short, bushy plants or all reed-thin tall ones will get a little boring! Choose a selection of ground cover plants for borders or for areas you’re not ready to develop further yet. They hold moisture in the ground and look much better than bare dirt! Pick out some short, full plants to form an inviting first row of the garden from a visual angle. Select taller plants of various widths as you consider what you will plant toward the middle of round gardens, or the back of gardens you view from only one or two sides. In considering your selections, take into account the plant’s need for sun, what time of the season it blooms, and how large/wide it should be expected to grow. We cover these topics in more depth in other guides on this site.

Thirdly, keep these important factors in mind:

  •  Choose plants that need similar watering requirements for each segment of the garden.
  •  Select only plants that look healthy and vigorous, free of pests and damage.
  •  Pick a blend of colors that you find attractive.
  •  Avoid plants that look root bound in their containers, with roots protruding from the soil.
  •  Plant more than just bloomers – a few varieties of Hostas or Dusty Miller complement flowers nicely.
  •  Don’t crowd plants too closely. Give them room to spread out and flourish!
  •  Wait until autumn to choose some of your bulbs. Plant them in garden spots that need filling in.
  •  Select herbs for the garden, and make sure to enjoy their production in the kitchen, as well!

Don’t fret about making your garden perfect – enjoy the adventure of working on it throughout the season and year by year, to tailor it to become just what you want. Keep learning, keep using a “trial and error” method to discover the plants you really connect with – that refresh your soul. The process of developing a great garden is not something to be rushed, but to be savored!

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Gardening Tips: Getting Started on Your Summer Vegetable Garden

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Now that our last frost has finally come and gone, we can think about summer vegetables. Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, melons, and squash thrive in hot, sunny weather. Don’t rush the season! Until nights stay about 50 degrees F. hot weather plants will fail to thrive. Secrets to a successful summer vegetable garden include:

Getting Started on Your Summer Vegetable Garden

  1. Pick disease resistant varieties. In tomatoes, for example, all the letters after the varietal name represent plant diseases this variety can withstand. In short, look for lots of letters after the name. It’s impossible to overemphasize the importance of disease resistance in our climate.
  2. Harden off your transplants. This means exposing the plants gradually to the sun and wind so that they can adjust to the change from greenhouse conditions. Sometimes this has been done by the time you buy them. Other times you will have to do it yourself. Set the plants out on a sunny place in a somewhat protected environment, such as a porch, for a few days, before setting them out in the garden. Pay attention to the appearance of the plants. Dramatic wilting or browning of leaves means you’re going too fast. After a few days, you may set them out in their permanent positions. If you start seeds in place (beans, melons and cucumbers do best direct seeded) you don’t have to worry about hardening off because the plants won’t be experiencing this dramatic change in growing habitat.
  3. Don’t space too closely. It’s so easy to underestimate the spacial needs of an adult plant while regarding it in its infancy, but don’t fudge. Follow the directions on the packet or transplanting tag. Overcrowding encourages insects and disease.
  4. Provide consistent moisture and fertility. Plants are creatures of habit like the rest of us and find fluctuating conditions very stressful. My favorite technique is to mix composted manure or slow release fertilizer with the soil and water with drip or seep irrigators. Containers can be bottom watered by setting them in saucers that stay full of water. You may still need to side dress with additional fertilizer later in the season. A quick word here about mulch. It’s a great technique for controlling weeds and moisture loss, but wait until the plants are a good size before spreading it. Small plants surrounded by heavy mulch tend to rot at the base. Plastic mulch is not the best choice in our climate as it heats up our already warm soil excessively.
  5. Be vigilant. Keep a constant eye out for early signs of bugs, weeds, etc. Check the underside of leaves where most insects lay their eggs. I hand pick both bugs and weeds which is a manageable task only if you stay on top of it daily. Even if you elect to spray, early intervention makes every problem more controllable and saves your garden from setbacks to productivity. Often, insects carry the diseases that can eventually kill summer vegetables. If you do elect to spray, check out the new bioneem spray from Safer products. Neem is an Indian tree with a ten thousand year history of use in insect control and may be a boon to those of us who worry about chemical residue from traditional pesticides.
  6. Spend a little effort on design features and interplant some flowers to make your vegetable garden esthetically pleasing. For most of us, gardening is an option, not a necessity, so we should make it an enjoyable experience to be there. If it’s beautiful, we’re more likely to spend the time and effort there to maintain it well and harvest more. Next time I’ll talk about recommended varieties of favorite summer vegetables.Now that our last frost has finally come and gone, we can think about summer vegetables. Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, melons, and squash thrive in hot, sunny weather. Don’t rush the season! Until nights stay about 50 degrees F. hot weather plants will fail to thrive. Secrets to a successful summer vegetable garden include:
    1. Pick disease resistant varieties. In tomatoes, for example, all the letters after the varietal name represent plant diseases this variety can withstand. In short, look for lots of letters after the name. It’s impossible to overemphasize the importance of disease resistance in our climate.
    2. Harden off your transplants. This means exposing the plants gradually to the sun and wind so that they can adjust to the change from greenhouse conditions. Sometimes this has been done by the time you buy them. Other times you will have to do it yourself. Set the plants out on a sunny place in a somewhat protected environment, such as a porch, for a few days, before setting them out in the garden. Pay attention to the appearance of the plants. Dramatic wilting or browning of leaves means you’re going too fast. After a few days, you may set them out in their permanent positions. If you start seeds in place (beans, melons and cucumbers do best direct seeded) you don’t have to worry about hardening off because the plants won’t be experiencing this dramatic change in growing habitat.
    3. Don’t space too closely. It’s so easy to underestimate the spacial needs of an adult plant while regarding it in its infancy, but don’t fudge. Follow the directions on the packet or transplanting tag. Overcrowding encourages insects and disease.
    4. Provide consistent moisture and fertility. Plants are creatures of habit like the rest of us and find fluctuating conditions very stressful. My favorite technique is to mix composted manure or slow release fertilizer with the soil and water with drip or seep irrigators. Containers can be bottom watered by setting them in saucers that stay full of water. You may still need to side dress with additional fertilizer later in the season. A quick word here about mulch. It’s a great technique for controlling weeds and moisture loss, but wait until the plants are a good size before spreading it. Small plants surrounded by heavy mulch tend to rot at the base. Plastic mulch is not the best choice in our climate as it heats up our already warm soil excessively.
    5. Be vigilant. Keep a constant eye out for early signs of bugs, weeds, etc. Check the underside of leaves where most insects lay their eggs. I hand pick both bugs and weeds which is a manageable task only if you stay on top of it daily. Even if you elect to spray, early intervention makes every problem more controllable and saves your garden from setbacks to productivity. Often, insects carry the diseases that can eventually kill summer vegetables. If you do elect to spray, check out the new bioneem spray from Safer products. Neem is an Indian tree with a ten thousand year history of use in insect control and may be a boon to those of us who worry about chemical residue from traditional pesticides.
    6. Spend a little effort on design features and interplant some flowers to make your vegetable garden esthetically pleasing. For most of us, gardening is an option, not a necessity, so we should make it an enjoyable experience to be there. If it’s beautiful, we’re more likely to spend the time and effort there to maintain it well and harvest more. Next time I’ll talk about recommended varieties of favorite summer vegetables.

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