Information and advice can be found on any subject under the sun these days, simply by accessing the Internet. But it isn’t always easy to know which sites to trust.

For instance, learning about the details of brain surgery from a site called “Bubba Billy’s Bullpucky Blog” probably isn’t the best idea.

When it comes to the world of outdoor pursuits, one member-driven site that has quickly grown to include more than 54,600 people is Hot Spot Outdoors. Launched in 1997 by businessman and outdoorsman Rick Paquin, hotspotoutdoors.com includes how-do and informational videos, articles and a forum full of knowledge.

To date, there are more than 270,000 topics on HSO with more than 2.7 million posts.

The forums — all 270 of them — cover a myriad of topics guaranteed to cover any interest for those interested in the outdoors, from fishing to hunting, gardening to photography, horseback riding to motorcycles. There are forums for ATV riders, canoe enthusiasts, mushroom hunters, photographers, sports watchers, birders and home improvement attempters. When it comes to the fishing, the forums are broken down by species, type of fishing and locations. While some of the forums have locations as broad as a state or portion in the U.S., the Minnesota areas are divided by 38 regions.

The forums are moderated by those members who have a special interest in that subject, be it motorcycling, cooking or outdoors happenings in southwest Minnesota. The forums are family friendly — profanity and bashings others is not allowed.

The Daily Globe asked a few of the moderators and pro staff from HSO for some tips, tricks and advice before heading out to the lakes and rivers this fishing season. Here’s what they said:

When it comes to taking kids out for a day of fishing, Reinhard1 of Andover has some valuable suggestions. Plan ahead of time, he said, stocking up on snacks and patience, and try to find a lake with panfish, which will provide more fishing action. Make sure the weather is cooperative, because even the most dedicated of anglers gets cold, hot or windblown. Stay positive and prepare to spend the day talking about the child’s interests and not your own. If possible, have the child bring a friend. Give them a chance to steer the boat, bring along minnows and leeches for fishing with, playing with and befriending, and don’t forget to take a break now and then, heading for a beach or pier to let off some pent-up energy.

“The enjoyment of the day should be in your spirit prior to going,” Reinhard stated. “After all, it is about them, and not about you.”

Delmuts of Sumner, Iowa, added a few more kid-friendly suggestions, such as keeping sunscreen onboard and making sure it isn’t outdated. Sunscreen does expire, which means that no matter how diligent you were about keeping skin covered up, you and your kid could end up crispy by the end of the day if the expiration date isn’t heeded. He also recommends keeping bathroom breaks in mind or having a plan for such things.

Keeping things simple might be the key to keeping them fishing, Delmuts stated. Use live bait and try using circle hooks. And don’t be surprised if the day is cut short by weather or the need to wiggle and run.

Gordie from Zimmerman had some advice when it comes to boat towing and landing.

“Always check your trailer lights before heading to the lake,” he said. “When pulling your boat out of the landing, make sure the safety chain is attached. When backing down the landing, make sure the safety chain is attached.”

Gordie also advised boaters to have patience at the landing.

“Your turn will come,” he stated.

More good advice came from Upnorth of Chisholm. He said boaters should always get their watercraft ready before pulling into the line at the boat ramp. Check the bilge plug not once, but twice, before launching.

Once out on the lake, if you see a line of boats trolling an area, “don’t wheedle your way in and drop anchor in the middle of their trolling pattern.”

And he offered another piece of advice about fishing with kids.

“Don’t leave your net lying on the floor of the boat,” he suggested. “It will invariably be full of shoes, food, jackets and more when the biggest fish of the day is on the line.”

Upnorth also offered a tip to make a simple and functional rod holder for those fishing from shore using a 3/8 inch steel rod, 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe and electrical tape. Cut the pipe to a length of 8 inches or so and tape it to the steel rod with a bit of pipe sticking over the top. Don’t be stingy with the tape, he suggested, putting it in two spots and wrapping it around seven or eight times.

Growing giant pumpkins can be a fun and exciting hobby. It can even be profitable if you can grow contest-winning fruits for annual fairs. The biggest pumpkins recorded have weighed over 1,000 pounds, and their growers often boast of belonging to the “1000 Club.” You too can grow a giant pumpkin. It will take some time and effort, but will be rewarding and fun. Here are some tips for growing that prize-winning, kid-pleasing giant pumpkin:

Select the right seed variety. Not all pumpkin varieties are the same. Some are bred to be purposely small (such as ‘Small Sugar’ and ‘Spookie’), but others have been developed just for growing giant pumpkins. Giant pumpkin varieties include ‘Big Max,’ ‘Big Tom,’ ‘Howden’s Field,’ and ‘Atlantic Giant.’

Tips to grow a giant pumpkin

This last variety, ‘Atlantic Giant,’ actually holds the world record for all giant pumpkins—over 1,300 pounds! Check your local garden supply store for the varieties best for your area. Your local Cooperative Extension Service can also give you tips on the seed variety best suited for where you live (Look for the Extension Service in the government pages of your phone book.).

Select the right place to grow your pumpkin. Pumpkins grow on large, spreading vines that can quickly take control of your garden. They need lots of growing space. However, they can tolerate a little more shade than most vegetables, so you may be able to find an otherwise unused spot in the garden for them. Still, make sure your pumpkin patch receives at least 6 hours of sunlight each day. Pumpkins especially thrive in open fields or mixed in with corn. You can plant your pumpkin vines between corn rows or along a fence.
Prepare the soil. Pumpkins need rich soil with lots of moisture. To grow a giant pumpkin, you will need to take extra steps in ensuring the quality of your soil. If you are new to gardening or have recently moved and are beginning growing on a new spot of land, you may want to have a soil test taken by the local Extension Service. Tell them you want to grow a giant pumpkin, and they can tell you exactly what to add to your soil and how much of it to add to make your soil just right for giant pumpkin growing. (Soil tests rarely cost more than $5 to $10, and you get free gardening recommendations along with the results).

Before planting your seeds, mix in some commercial fertilizer and rotted manure or compost to the soil. A fertilizer high in potassium will help you grow a giant pumpkin. (Potassium is the “K” in NPK fertilizers).

Planting Pumpkins: To plant your pumpkin seeds, make a hill or mound from the soil about 4 to 6 inches high. Sow five seeds per hill, spacing seeds 6 inches apart. It’s important to wait until all danger of frost is over before you plant your seeds outside. If you live in a northern climate, you may need to start your seeds indoors and transplant outside after the last frost. Pumpkins take 110 to 120 days to reach maturity. They love the hot days of summer and get squeamish at the first sight of cold weather. After the seedlings emerge, thin to just 2 or 3 plants per hill, keeping the healthiest looking ones. Mulch the young plants to retain moisture in the soil. Make sure to keep the soil moist, but never soggy. Some gardeners place a gallon jug (old milk carton) with a hole punched in the bottom and filled with water on each hill to ensure good moisture.

Getting the one giant pumpkin: Your pumpkin plants will produce several fruits per vine. But you want your plants to put as much energy as possible into growing one giant fruit, not lots of little or medium-sized pumpkins. So once the small green fruits emerge, cut off all but 3. Let those grow for a few weeks and then select the best looking one to continue. Cut off the other two. Most pumpkin vines send out secondary shoots. You can leave these to grow, but sidedress fertilize them periodically throughout the growing season.

Protect against pests. The most serious threat to pumpkins is the cucumber beetle. These long beetles are striped or spotted yellow with black marking, and they eat holes in leaves. Spray your plants with rotenone or carbaryl as they grow to provide protection against pests.

And even though you want to give your giant pumpkin as much time as possible to grow, it is very important to harvest it before the threat of frost. Frost will destroy your prize pumpkin. But if you have fertilized well, used a rich soil, and kept close watch over your pumpkin to protect it from pests, you should be able to have a rewarding treat in the early fall. Maybe you too can join the 1000 Club!

Those with green thumbs looking to connect with neighbors will have an opportunity soon to connect with fellow gardening enthusiasts, the City of Ballwin announced Thursday.

The Kehrs Mill View Garden Club will host an educational meeting at 10 a.m. Wednesday, May 9 at The Pointe at Ballwin Common. No registration is required.

The club’s history dates back to 1959, when the group established itself as a member of of the Federated Garden Clubs of Missouri under the National Garden Clubs, and has supported city efforts such as the unveiling of the Blue Star Memorial Plaque at Vlasis Park in 2007.

Images

Children learn gardening and healthy eating tips at one of the American Heart Association’s teaching gardens.Courtesy photo

Many garden fruits and vegetables are high in vitamins, minerals and fiber and low in fat and calories. Eating a variety of fruits and vegetables may help you control your weight and blood pressure, ultimately helping reduce the risk for heart disease, our nation’s number one killer. The American Heart Association recommends eating eight or more fruit and vegetable servings every day. And, this Spring, the Association encourages you to try growing your own produce in a backyard garden.

Here are some helpful tips to boost fruits and vegetables in your garden and your diet:

Keep it colorful

Challenge yourself to plant and try fruits and vegetables of different colors. Make a red/green/orange section (tomato, lettuce, carrot) and see if you can consume a rainbow of fruits and vegetables during the gardening season.

Roast away.

Try roasting garden vegetables like cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, onions, carrots, or eggplant. Long exposure to high heat will cause these foods to caramelize, which enhances their natural sweetness and reduces bitterness. Enjoy vegetable dippers. Chop raw vegetables into bite-sized pieces. Try bell peppers, carrots, cucumbers, broccoli, cauliflower and celery, and dip your favorites into low-fat or fat-free dressings.

Sip smoothies and try fruit pops.

Puree your fruits and place in an ice tray to freeze overnight. You can eat the fruit cubes as mini-popsicles or put them into a blender with lowfat milk for a morning smoothie. Watermelon, strawberries, cherries, cranberries, raspberries and red apples are great summer treats.

The American Heart Association believes in dramatically changing the way America thinks about food and consumes it. And there are plenty of facts to back us up. For example, research indicates people who garden and prepare their own food have a greater chance of trying – and liking – fruits and vegetables.

For more information on how fruits and vegetables can support a healthy diet visit www.heart.org.

By KAKI HOLT

Special to the Daily News

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No matter whether you’re staying put or heading for cooler climes, Barbara Wise’s new book, Container Gardening for All Seasons, has some tips to give you a hand with your summer patio plantings.

First, Wise advocates mixing different textures — fine, feathery foliage contrasts nicely with straight, narrow stalks and broad tropical leaves. Similarly, long-and-linear leaves look great when paired with full, rounded or oval shapes.

If you’re limited on time, choose plants that aren’t as water needy. Succulents, of course, require little care, but the same can be said for showy, tropical plants such as mandevilla, cannas and cordylines. Even roses can be used in containers, says Wise, if they’re disease-resistant and heat-tolerant: In Florida, it’s best to buy only those roses on Fortuniana root stock.

Watch your container size. Some plants, like Tropicanna cannas, will grow up to 6 feet tall by the end of the season and enlarge their root size so much that they’ll break through the pot. So Wise recommends making sure all the plants you plan to put in one pot will remain in scale and that your pot size measures one-half to one-third the size that your tallest plant will be when it matures.

Because there’s less soil in containers, they dry out quicker than ground plantings. Allowing your planter to fully dry out causes considerable stress on the plants, often preventing them from fully recovering or reaching their full potential.

Water with your sprayer on a gentle shower setting and stop watering when water flows freely out of the bottom of the pot. Using a potting soil made for containers instead of soil dug up from the ground also will help, Wise writes.

“The lighter components of potting soil provide more aeration for roots,” she says. “Just stick your finger into the soil, up to your first finger joint — if it feels dry, then water.”

Hope these tips help you to have luxuriant pots all summer.

SNOWMASS VILLAGE — I’ve worked damned hard to be a lazy gardener, and after 10 years, I’m kicking back and enjoying it.

Veggies are springing out of the ground ready to eat with absolutely no thought, expense or effort on my part. I’m literally tripping over stuff in the back yard that we can eat for dinner tonight.

This is only because, in some past year, we put in considerable thought, some expense and some effort. We invested the time and money upfront, and subsequent years just got easier and less costly.

Lazy gardening is the ultimate goal of home-scale permaculture. The book that persuaded us that home-scale permaculture is worth the patience and persistence to get lasting results is “Gaia’s Garden: A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture” by Toby Hemenway. This book is the unlikeliest candidate on my personal list of life-changing books.

Back in 2000 when Tom and I bought our house in Mack, three words summed up the real estate: What a dump!

The former office of the Uintah Railroad (circa 1910) had seen various incarnations as a residence, whorehouse, post office, auto body shop, crack house and other stuff I’d rather not know about.

The property had three sterling qualities. The building was constructed like a bunker, the place was cheap, and the mixed zoning and absence of a homeowners association allowed for great creativity.

Our new Mack home was a blank canvas of desert-baked soil, a nonfunctioning hot-tub, various junked appliances, noxious weeds and one solitary tree that we could huddle under for shade. Nothing stopped the desert winds, which suck the life out of anything that doesn’t just blow into the next county.

Numerous trips to the dump and a neighbor with a brush hog took care of the junk and the weeds, but converting our barren homestead into some kind of personal oasis was a more daunting proposition. The fact that we embarked on this adventure in middle age convinced us to design for eventually minimizing the need for supplemental water, replacement of annual plants, weeding, and other back-breaking and budget-breaking outlay.

Fortunately, “Gaia’s Garden” featured a before-and-after photo story of another desert dump north of Santa Fe with “before” photos that looked just like our place in Mack. I highly suspected lots of computer enhancement of the “after” photos, but our own subsequent success with home-scale permaculture made me a believer.

The tricks are planning, patience, persistence, perennials and the humility to rip out stuff that isn’t working. Tom and I still refuse to do the accounting on the expensive trees that never budded out for a second year. The takeaway on that experience is that there is a reason you see lots of cottonwood trees in the desert. We learned to ignore the glowing reviews of other lovely varieties recommended for western gardens.

We garden in the Hell Zone, which is not covered in the garden guides. We got the real lowdown information from the neighbors and several of Grand Junction’s very knowledgeable nurserymen and women, including the resources of the Colorado State University Two Rivers Extension Center.

After we built enough fence for a small windbreak, we put in cottonwood trees, which immediately send a huge taproot directly to the water table. The trees that were wimpy little saplings seven years ago now shade the house and yard.

Permaculture does not tame nature. Permaculture works with nature, often letting nature do all the work. When the herbs I planted in the spot I wanted withered and died, but their windblown seeds happily took root on the other side of the property where they wanted to be, who was I to argue?

Every situation is unique and each permaculture design will be customized. When we were gardening in the Roaring Fork Valley, we took care to clean up the garden every fall before the snow fell so old vegetation would not turn into smothering slime before the snow melted in spring. Now at the edge of the desert, we take care to leave the old stalks to protect the garden from dessicating winds until the new spring shoots are strong enough to take the buffeting. Cleanup is in April rather than October.

Readers might already know that one of the most prestigious permaculture sites in the country is Jerome Osentowski’s Central Rocky Mountain Permaculture Institute in Basalt (www.crmpi.org). This is a great resource for wannabe lazy gardeners in Snowmass.

It might take a few years to become a successful lazy gardener, but vegetables that just jump out of the ground every spring are worth it. I wish my investments in my retirement fund would do as well. Of course we still have to plant tomatoes every year. Hey, if I could develop a perennial tomato, it would probably beat my retirement fund.

Just in time for the growing season, Christina Symons and John Gillespie have brought out a new book, Sow Simple: 100+ Green and Easy Projects to Make Your Garden Awesome ($29.95, Harbour Publishing).

Symons and Gillespie will share some gardening tips and tricks from Sow Simple at an event in Nanaimo at Dig This, 5283 Rutherford Rd., May 4 at 5: 30 p.m. The authors will be giving a book signing and a free workshop and talk (learn how to grow your own tea and make quirky concrete containers and a heart-shaped pot trellis) ).

This collection of gardening tips, ideas and projects will inspire beginner green thumbs and master gardeners alike to experiment, have fun, and create their own backyard eden.

Beautifully illustrated with Symons’ gorgeous colour photography, Sow Simple is packed with practical, proven advice to apply to everyday chores such as propagation, plant selection, transplanting, pruning and dealing with garden pests.

Brent Beasley of Overland Park is an internist and medical director of the physician quality organization for St. Luke’s Health System. Beasley, a native of Tulsa, Okla., attended Baylor University, then went to medical school at University of Oklahoma and completed a fellowship at the Johns Hopkins University medical school. This conversation took place in his office at St. Luke’s Hospital Medical Plaza.

QIs there a season for yard work-related back injuries?

AWe see quite a few patients in the springtime, when people first start going back out to work in their gardens.

QWhy do you think that is?

AI think part of it is because people haven’t had routine exercise during the winter months. And the motions you make in gardening are very different than the motions you would do even if you did exercise routinely. Jogging or running on a treadmill do not exercise the same muscles you use in gardening.

QEven people who know to stretch before a run might not think about “warming up” before yard work.

AThat’s true. One of the things that I think is baseline important, and particularly for people with recurrent back problems, is to strengthen the core abdominal muscles.

QWhat types of exercises strengthen the abdominal muscles?

AOnes that we don’t really like to do — sit-ups, crunches, leg lifts. My patients find that when they begin to do those kinds of exercises, it’s hard at first, but then they have a lot more back protection.

QSo before starting weekend warrior projects, it’s good to do sit-ups and leg lifts to strengthen your abs. What should you avoid doing when you grab your tools and head outdoors?

AIf you are lifting something like a large flower pot, don’t bend over at the waist and use your arms. Squat down and keep your back straight and use your leg muscles to pull up.

QWhat other types of injuries do you see from gardening besides back injuries?

ARaking and hoeing can cause neck and shoulder injuries, especially the first time you do it for the season, like I did last weekend.

QWhat happened?

AI was raking and I ended up with rotator-cuff tendonitis. I didn’t think that I wasn’t used to moving that way.

QAre there exercises that can help prevent rotator-cuff injuries?

AYes. There are some shoulder stretches that are helpful. One is to walk your fingers up a wall as high as you can and putting your head up against your arm to stretch the shoulder.

Another one is to do what I call stirring the pot: Bend over from the waist to a 90-degree angle with a flat back and swing your arm around in a circle as if you were stirring a large soup pot with your arm.

QWhat other kinds of gardening-related problems do you see this time of year?

AFor those of us who have allergies, working outdoors can trigger reactions. I bought an allergy mask this year. You can get them at pharmacies around town for about seven or eight dollars.

QDo those really work?

AIt made a big difference for me this year. We use them at hospitals to prevent exposure to TB, and they can block small particles of pollen as well.

It’s also good to take an allergy pill if you need one, although it’s best to prevent the allergies from coming on with a mask.

QDo you also see accidents from outdoor chores this time of year?

ASure. And when you think about breaking the skin with garden tools, you want to make sure you’re up to date on your tetanus shot. You should get one every five to ten years. If you do cut yourself, you want to wash it out with clean water and soap.

Gardening gloves are also very helpful if you want to prevent blisters.

And if you use a Weed Eater, wear goggles.

QWhat can happen if you don’t?

ASplinters of wood or rock can cause corneal abrasions, and I’ve seen those abrasions get worse and require a lot of care.

Reach Cindy Hoedel at choedel@kcstar.com. Follow her on Twitter @cindyhoedel.

Water gardens can be any size and shape. Plants and fish are essential to a successful pond. Choose your plants and fish carefully and you will have many years of enjoyment.

Any type of water feature will add an appealing and soothing element to a garden. A water garden can include fountains, ponds, waterfalls, plants and fish. It can look natural or be made from barrels, plastic tubs or just about anything that will hold water.

The right location for a water garden is important. It should be located in full sun or dappled shade, as most aquatic plants and fish prefer some sun. If located away from trees you won’t have the problem of leaf debris. It can in ground or above ground, whichever you prefer. Learn about different types of plants and fish that suit the size of your water garden.

Water gardening info

When deciding on the size of your water garden, think about the size of your property. The bigger the space, the bigger the pond can be. If you only have a porch or deck then a small amount of water in a half barrel will do just fine.
What style do you want your water garden to have? Match the style to your home or be creative and do something completely different and unusual. Any rock work, lighting, waterfalls and fountains that you add will depend on your budget and the purpose of your water garden. Use your imagination and use items you may already have. If your property is large you may want a natural looking pond by using rocks found on the land you live on, or even from a neighbor. People are often happy to get rid of rocks if you will haul them away. You may want to turn that old trombone into a fountain that is very unique. Place a small concrete dish under a yard windmill and add a few plants and fish. You can re-circulate the water for a more lifelike effect. Build a bridge over your pond, place lifelike concrete animals or water birds around your pond. Set container plants around the edge of the water garden for a lusher look.

When choosing fish and water plants, be sure to consider the size of each at maturity. No more that 60% of the water surface should be covered with plants. Some aquatic plants are free floating and others need to be submerged in pots. They can stay in pots and be elevated to the correct height. Fish are as important as plants in keeping a pond healthy. Fish will help clean up debris and help control mosquito larva and other insects. Gold fish and Koy are the most popular water garden fish used today. These fish can get very large. Koy can jump and can be expensive if you lose one. Be sure the pond is the correct depth for the species of fish you put in your water garden.

Water lilies and other water plants will provide beautiful color and texture to any size water garden. Some water plants provide oxygen for fish. If you get water plants from a friend or neighbor be sure they are legal water plants, as some are illegal in some states. Talk to a nursery that specializes in water plants for answers. Do not get water plants from rivers or lakes unless you find out all the information about the plants beforehand. Do not transfer your plants to rivers or lakes either, as this may be illegal.

Antique Roses are also known as Old Fashioned Roses and plants used to be shared amongst our mothers and grandmothers via cuttings with varying success.

Some bloom repeatedly and some bloom in the spring and fall, yet others only in the spring. In any event, the blooms, though sometimes small, are numerous and quite gorgeous. Some are more hardy than others.

Step 1: Choose a healthy stem with blooms and cut just above a leaf node containing five leaves. If you are trying to train your rose bush, make sure the five leaves are facing the direction you want the new stem growth to be. Keep the plant stem (including some leaves) in water as much as possible after cutting.

Gardening Tips: Antique Rose Propagation

Step 2: Cut the stem at a 45 degree angle (minimum) just below a leaf node. It helps to have the stem under water while you cut to prevent moisture loss.

Step 3: Fill a planting pot 3/4 full with a mixture of 3/4 good potting soil and 1/4 course sand.

Step 4: Pour about 1/4 teaspoon of dry Soil Moist or equivalent wet Soil Moist in the pot and stir the Soil Moist into the the upper 1/2 of the soil mixture.

Step 5: Finish filling the pot with the potting soil mix. Water well, then poke three holes with a pencil or stick.

Step 6: Cut the branches into sections, making sure to leave at least one or two leaf stems on each section. The sections should be about 4-6 inches depending on the size of the stem and the distance between leaf nodes.

Step 7: Remove the lower leaves and any buds or blossoms. Leave only one or two sets of leaves.

Step 8: Spray the cuttings with a good fungicide for roses. If the stems are thick (about 1/4th inch in diameter), slit them lengthwise to allow more water absorption.

Step 9: Insert the bottom portion of the stems of the rose cuttings in rooting hormone and make sure at least the lowest leaf node is coated with the hormone.

Step 9: Place the cuttings in the prepared holes in the pot and press the soil around the stem firmly.

Step 10: Use plastic straws, bamboo sticks or cut Venetian blinds to keep any plastic from touching the leaves. Then place a gallon zippered bag over the pot. The zippered bag should not fit tightly and will allow some air into the bag, yet keep the cuttings moist and the soil from losing moisture.

Step 11: Place in a well lit area out of direct sunlight. Check every few days to make sure that moisture is being maintained.

Step 12: In about 3-4 weeks, the cuttings will have started to develop roots. In 6-8 weeks, you need to transplant those that have rooted to individual pots.

SPECIAL TIPS and NOTES:

If you are doing a lot of cuttings and find it time consuming to cover the pots with a plastic bag, a good alternative is to use a product such as Wilt Pruf and give them an occasional misting.

If you do not have a mister, you can apply the Wilt Pruf as needed and keep the plants watered. Wilt Pruf is an organic product made of pine tree resin and helps to prevent moisture loss in the leaves and will also shed excess water. Only apply once, as too much will suffocate the leave causing them to turn brown and fall off.

Soil Moist is a polymer-based product that absorbs up to 200 times it size in water. It releases water into the soil as the soil dries. The more Soil Moist you use, the less you will have to water. This reduces the possibility of the soil getting too dry and harming the newly formed roots, or too wet in case of over watering or excessive rains.

Do not discard the cuttings if the leaves fall off. Just gather up the fallen leaves and discard to discourage black spot. As long as the stem remains green, chances are new leaf shoots will form and the stem cuttings will root. If the stem turns completely brown, remove and discard the stem.

Also, the thicker the stem and larger angle end cuttings will make them root faster and increase their chances of rooting.

Your chances of success and time to root may vary depending on the specific rose variety that you are propagating.