Spring: the season of birth and renewal, when the clouds of winter disappear and the sunsets happen later. A great way of taking advantage of the extra rays is planting a garden, volunteering at a community plot or at the LCC Learning Garden.

The first step to starting a garden is assessing the land and the soil where the garden will take root. Locate the garden in a place with plenty of sun and enough room for sufficient drainage. Improve soil quality by digging out any rocks and adding soil, clay, sand, compost or fertilizer.

To increase the amount of nutrients and minerals for the plant, add organic material such as manure, compost and yard clippings which increases the amount of nutrients and minerals the plants will soak up. Finding the right fertilizer to stimulate happy plant growth is simple: any gardening store or online resource will show the type of fertilizer needed for vegetables or flowers.

A soil test is sometimes needed when you are unsure of the acidity of the soil. For vegetables, an approximate pH level of 6.5 is ideal.

Tilling the soil with organic matter and compost is the next step. Work in the fresh layer of matter evenly. This needs to be done a few times during the year. Next create the plots, rows and beds in which you want to plant your vegetables.

For potatoes, corn, squash and melons, a single low row works best. For potatoes, dig a trench 5 or 6 inches deep and place a budding potato chunk in the furrow. Cover that spud up with soil and watch it grow.

For other veggies, you can make a rectangular plot as many feet across and wide as you like. This works well because it occupies less space and yields more crops in a single plot than a single row. This clumping helps keep out weeds and locks moisture in the soil. This is perfect for beans and peas. For planting beans and peas, leave about 2 inches of space between each seed, cover with 1 inch of soil and press it down a little.

Raised beds are another option for growing carrots, onions, turnips and beets; any plant with deep roots needs this extra layer of soil. Raised beds help trap heat, so they work better in cooler climates. For root crops, using fertilizer with high phosphorus content helps stimulate epic root growth.

Once you have planted the seeds, lay some fertilizer over the tops of the rows. The most important step after planting and fertilizing is watering your Garden of Eden. Keep the seeds moist until they begin to germinate. Then, hold back on the water and let them dry out a tad between hose downs. Success! Now just sit back and water, tend your crop, and enjoy the bounty of nature.

The hardest part of growing a successful garden is putting in the effort and time. But you can get past this. You’re better than this!

If you don’t have the room to grow your own crops, or you want to get some gardening know-how but don’t want to start your own just yet, LCC Learning Garden supervisor Jamina Shuback says she has all the tasks and tools to teach you whenever you want to volunteer.

(Photos by Turner Maxwell)

Reporter

• Make a pot of mint tea Mint loves moist soil and is one of the
first herbs to put on new growth, so make fresh mint tea and take a moment
to notice the new foliage on shrubs such as Japanese acers.

• Support border plants Their new top growth will be soft. Wire
supports and pea sticks are easier to push in when the ground is wet. Plants
flopping over paths can be held back by a permanent edging or a row of Link
Stakes.

• Visit gardens At least they won’t be crowded. The National
Trust has rainy days ideas by region at nationaltrust.org.uk, but any
property with a large conservatory, orangery or a tea room is worth a try.
When I visited Nymans, West Sussex, in early spring, there was a heated
potting shed filled with interesting second-hand gardening books. Gardens
that open for charity might do extra days; check ngs.org.uk for updates.

• Be inspired Read Rainy Days in the Lake District by Val
Corbett, a photographer who revels in rain from dripping anoraks, sodden
sheep and, of course, rainbows (Frances Lincoln, £9.99).

Damage limitation

• Protect with cloches Keep rain off seedlings or strawberry
flowers and fruit. The classic Longrow Super Cloche is easily moved from
crop to crop and is sturdy and long-lasting. It is widely available from
mail-order suppliers (£35 from twowests.co.uk).
For protection from late frosts and cold winds, garden fleece is a versatile
cover but needs to be well-secured yet removed on warm days.

• Administer TLC Plugs and young potted plants that would
normally be hardening off in a cold frame or even planted out by now need a
bit of TLC to prevent a check to their growth. If you have room, pot them
on.

• Feed stragglers Plants, such as tomatoes, may look as if they
are running out of nutrients. Others that look pale and lanky are suffering
from low light levels, so rotate them to keep stems straight.

• Re-sow if necessary Outdoor sowings may have rotted due to
cold, wet soils. Re-sow leafy and root crops when it gets a bit warmer. They
will still do their stuff this year, but check seed packets as it is
possibly too late for some crops such as tomatoes and sweetcorn, even if
grown indoors.

• Rescue waterlogged pots Outdoor container plants can die if
the compost becomes saturated. Rescue pots by removing trays from under
them, at least for now. Pot feet, from garden centres, can help with
drainage.

• Turn the compost heap Use a fork to mix the wet and dry layers
and cover open-topped bins. Bring wormeries into the garage or cover them,
as the worms will drown if too wet.

Stay dry

• Wear gloves Keep dry while planting, weeding and pricking out.
Thin Showa 370 gloves are great for dexterous tasks but the nitrile coating
and elasticated wrists keep out cold and dirt; they are washable, too. £8,
widely available.

• Stay indoors Watch BQ’s DIY clips on YouTube. They now
feature garden advice for beginners, so you can be cheered by the
ever-positive Alan Titchmarsh telling you, “When it’s raining, it’s a great
time to feed border plants since the rain will wash fertiliser down to the
roots where it is needed.”

• Get some wet weather kit Walking or sailing jackets and
trousers that are waterproof yet breathable work well – think Lands’ End or
Regatta. A waterproof baseball cap or hat with a rim allows more movement
than a hood. Wellies are fine for most garden activities but for carrying
heavy items or digging, walking boots offer more protection. For quick
dashes out, it’s worth keeping a pair of slip-on plastic clogs by the back
door.

Plan ahead

• Buy mulch material Apply it to the soil surface as soon as the
rain stops. Loose mulch, laid at a depth of 2in, will seal in moisture to
sustain plants through the summer. Bark chips are invaluable for shrub and
mixed borders; well-rotted manure suits the veg and fruit plot; while gravel
sets off herb gardens and rockeries. To save lugging bags around in the
rain, order online and have it delivered: creative gardenideas.co.uk
(which gives free delivery on orders over £30), and
lbsgarden warehouse.co.uk (free delivery on orders over £150), offer a
wide range of mulch and other sundries.

• Blaze a trail Wet soils are muddy underfoot but a layer of
bark chips will give you access to borders. Buy “play grade” bark chips to
go underneath play equipment.

• Plan a path Make this the last year you squelch your way to
the greenhouse or shed by putting in hard landscaped paths or steps, either
stepping stones, a gravel path or something more ambitious. Now is the time
to get in some quotes – most landscapers and designers are not as busy as
usual this year.

• Go undercover If you don’t have a greenhouse, why not? You
could be sowing and potting up in comfort, your plants would be growing in
good light and your indoor windowsills would be clear of seed trays. For
buying tips, see which.co.uk/home-and-garden,
or compare styles and models at one of the big garden shows this year.

• Make a list Which flowers do well after heavy rain? You can
refer back to your list when ordering bulbs and roses in autumn. For
example, tulips vary greatly in their tolerance to rain – some shake it off
while others have flowers that fill with water, flop and their stems break.

• Plan a treat Good starting points for when the weather
improves include the sawdays.co.uk garden-lovers section, which has a list
of more than 170 bbs and small hotels with good gardens. The RHS (rhs.org.uk)
has just teamed up with JustGo! to offer UK garden breaks by coach based
around the RHS shows.

For gardens and nurseries worldwide, gardenvisit.com
is a useful source of ideas.

The Community Action Planning Council of Jefferson County will host a special gardening event from 4 to 7 p.m. Monday at its warehouse, 588 Morrison St.

Families will be able to start their own bucket gardens and learn useful gardening tips from a master gardener from Cornell Cooperative Extension of Jefferson County.

Seeds and tomato and pepper plants are available for families to take home. Anyone planning to attend can call CAPC at 782-4900, ext. 271.

The Spring Festival also includes a Gardener’s Market of native plants and vegetable seedlings propagated at City Natives along with compost, organic fertilizer and soil amendments to help gardeners build their soil. Proceeds from all sales will benefit BNAN’s City Natives. There is also a free workshop on beekeeping presented by Mike Graney from 12:00- 1:00 p.m. This event also offers the opportunity to take a self-guided tour of the Learning Garden and network with other gardeners.

For more information about the Spring Festival and Perennial Divide, contact BNAN at 617-542-7696 or www.bostonnatural.org. City Natives is accessible by public transportation to Mattapan Square. Remember only service dogs are allowed onto the property.

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LOCAL LAWYERS joined volunteers to plant 16 trees on Saturday, April 28 at the Dudley Street Neighborhood Charter School in Roxbury. The event was made possible with the help of LATTE (Lawyers Accountable To The Earth), which is joining forces with Grow Boston Greener (GBG), and Boston Natural Areas Network (BNAN).

LATTE is a local initiative of RainforestMaker, a non-profit program founded by Boston attorney Jeffrey S. Glassman, and is dedicated to providing for tree planting and maintenance at Boston area sites in need of trees. “Since lawyers go through ten times more paper than the average office worker, it is only fitting that they replant the trees they use.” Says Attorney Glassman, “Planting trees at schools sets a positive example for teachers, parents, and kids and raises awareness that resources used in one’s life can be mindfully restored.”

This Sunday is Mother’s Day, a time to honor our mother. Yet for many gardeners, it is also the unofficial start to the planting season.

Along with purchasing plants for Mom, many will plant annual flowers, perennials, trees, shrubs and vegetable plants. Sometimes there’s a little bit of confusion as to whether it is too early to plant.

The answer can be simple, yet it can also be complicated. The simple part is that trees, shrubs, perennials and some vegetable plants and some annuals can be safely planted. The complicated part is in knowing if we will have a frost that can affect the tender annuals and vegetables. The old gardening adage is that it is safe to plant all varieties after the full moon in May. The full moon was last week. Yet there have been frosts after the full moon in previous years. Another adage is that you plant tomato and pepper plants on Memorial Day weekend. So, if you are looking for concrete answers, there aren’t any. If you are playing the odds, then it’s time to plant everything. I hope that cleared up that question.

Since it is planting season, let’s take some time to talk about how to plant.

It can be a bit more complicated than digging a hole and dropping in a plant. Let’s start with planting trees and shrubs. Trees and shrubs need a certain environment for good growth. Along with the proper amount of sun or shade, these plants also need a certain type of soil for optimum growth. Most plants need to be in a soil that holds moisture, yet they don’t want to sit in water all the time. The adage for trees and shrubs is that you dig a $50 hole for a $5 plant. What this means is that the preparation of the soil is very important.

You will need to dig a hole that is wider than the root ball of the plant. I usually recommend two to three times wider than the container the plant grew in. You then have this pile of soil. Add the planting mix and use that mixture to fill back in around, and under, the root ball. To get the new roots growing on the plant, use a plant starter fertilizer. This is usually a liquid fertilizer that you mix with water. Use that mixture to initially water the plant.

Perennials can be a bit more complicated, as they have different soil requirements. The plant tag will tell you what type of soil conditions it needs. You may or may not have to add a planting mix to the soil in your garden unless the soil is a poor quality.

Just as with trees and shrubs, you should use a plant starter fertilizer to get the plants’ roots to grow quickly.

Annual flowers and vegetable plants that are grown in the ground may need to have planting mix added to the soil. Just as with the perennials, it depends on the requirements of the plant. If you are growing the annuals or vegetable plants in containers, you must use potting soil to fill the containers. If you use soil from your yard or if you use topsoil, the soil will tend to pack down, making it harder for the proper development of the roots.

Poor root growth equals poor plant growth. Just like all the other plants, the use of a plant starter fertilizer will help to get those plants off to a good start. For those of you who garden organically, there is an organic plant starter fertilizer.

Hopefully that has answered your questions about planting your gardens. If not, stop by the store and we will be glad to help.

Well, that’s all for this week. I’ll talk to you again next week.

• • •

Tim Lamprey is the owner of Harbor Garden Center on Route 1 in Salisbury. His website is www.Harborgardens.com. Do you have questions for Tim? Send them to ndn@newburyportnews.com, and he will answer them in upcoming columns.

An apple infamously did the trick for Adam and Eve, but for Willi Galloway, it was the seed pod of a forgotten radish that opened her eyes. It was that crunchy, spicy pod, tossed back as an impromptu snack, that changed the Portland, Ore.-based writer and editor’s perspective on kitchen gardening.

“I looked around, suddenly aware of all sorts of roots, leaves, blossoms and seeds I’d never before considered as food, and asked myself a simple question: What else can I eat?” she recalled in the introduction to “Grow Cook Eat: A Food Lover’s Guide to Vegetable Gardening” (Sasquatch, $29.95), her new book that outlines her discoveries.

It is a “full circle” handbook, ranging from preparing the soil and planting seeds to harvesting, storing and cooking the produce grown in a garden.

While the book includes 50 recipes that could, of course, be made with vegetables, fruits and herbs bought at the market, it is the growing cycle that’s key in Galloway’s view.

Learning curve

“To grow food is to really know food. Not just in the sense of knowing where the vegetables on your plate come from, but how their appearance, flavor and texture change as they grow,” she writes in the book, adding a few sentences later: “Gardening gives you a change to reacquaint yourself with food you thought you knew — like radishes.”

What does Galloway do with those radishes? The sprouts end up in salads. Some of the roots are pulled when marble-size, others at the larger size so often found in the grocery store. The greens get cooked like spinach, the flowers are a garnish, the pods are snacks.

Galloway’s tone, both in print and in a phone interview from Oregon, is enthusiastic and sensible. Even the inevitable thinning of seedlings — something that can bring a pang to some gardeners’ hearts — is turned into a positive.

“Think of thinnings as the first crop,” she said. “Any sprout tastes good in a grilled cheese, and they look pretty as a garnish.”

Harvesting help

Galloway, who writes the blog DigginFood.com and dispenses advice on Seattle’s public radio station, gets a lot of questions about harvesting.

“(People) are so worried about doing it at the wrong time,” she said. “They’re waiting until the food looks like it belongs in a supermarket. They’re harvesting beets when the beets are really huge and throwing out the greens. They’ve never grown food before, so they never know what to do with it.”

She wants readers to leaf through the book, find something that looks good to them and try growing it.

“You don’t have to be a farmer to grow bok choy, and if it doesn’t quite work out, you can still eat it,” she said, adding with a laugh, “I kill something different every year. I forget to water, or seedlings don’t sprout, or something doesn’t go right. That’s the great thing about gardening. Every year is different, every year you learn new tricks.”

wdaley@tribune.com

Growing tips from Willi Galloway

Grow what you like to eat. “If you don’t like green beans, there’s no need to grow them.”

If space is tight, grow only what you eat a lot of. For Galloway, that means lots of salad greens, tomatoes and squash.

Grow the pricey stuff (if you like it, that is). “A box of salad at the market will cost $5. A seed packet is $2.95 and you will be able to eat greens for months,” she said.

Grow herbs. “Herbs make foods taste so much better and are so cheap to grow,” Galloway said.

Listen and learn. “The best way to become a better gardener is to talk to other gardeners and look at their gardens,” she said. “Talk with other gardeners at nurseries, garden clubs. Talk to master gardeners at farmers markets. You’ll get ideas and might make some new friends.”

— B.D.