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Tips for high yields in a small or thirsty garden
How can you get the most yield from a garden where space is limited, and water is too?
Plant smart, and pay attention to the soil.
“Your garden is only as good as your soil,” says David Salman, chief horticulturist at High Country Gardens, a Santa Fe, N.M., catalog that specializes in native and low-water plants.
Find out what nutrients your soil has — and what it’s missing — with a soil test, available through local cooperative extension offices at a nominal fee (home soil-test kits are less reliable, according to the Colorado State University Extension).
Encourage plant health by fertilizing with natural, organic fertilizers, which include fish emulsion and liquid seaweed, says Salman. Limit the use of chemical fertilizers because they don’t help build the soil.
“You will have more nutritionally complete vegetables if you have healthy soil,” he promises.
One trick Salmon recommends, especially for gardeners living in new housing developments, is adding a soil inoculant called mycorrhiza, a beneficial fungi. It’s found naturally in healthy soil, but often needs to be added to a new garden.
“New gardens in new subdivisions, their soil is scraped off as part of construction,” says Salman. “You need to put beneficial fungi back in.”
Peas, beans and soybeans could benefit from legume inoculants, which are species-specific (a soybean inoculant cannot be used to improve peas’ growth). Read product labels carefully or ask your gardening center for assistance.
“Your beans will do OK (without it), but if you really want to crank out the beans, you can do that with the inoculant,” says Salman. “It’s kind of a ‘grandma’s secret’ to growing great beans.”
Plants that can offer high yields with low watering include leafy vegetables such as kale, lettuce and spinach; beans, snow peas and sugar snap peas; and some varieties of cucumbers and squash, he says. Plant vining beans and peas if you have space or can grow them up a fence or trellis; plant bush beans and peas in large pots if space is limited.
Sarah J. Browning, an extension educator for the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, suggests planting radishes, carrots, peppers, zucchini and summer squash for summertime bounty. Peppers grow well in dry conditions, says Browning, and root crops such don’t need frequent watering.
“If you watered them well and then mulched them, I think you could get a crop with fairly small amounts of water input,” she says.
Plant radishes early in the season or in part shade, and mulch them and other plants to retain moisture and combat weeds.
Browning recommends the cherry tomato cultivar Sun Gold and the slicers Big Beef and Celebrity as great-tasting high producers. Also look for disease-resistant tomato varieties, which are easier to grow. Browning refers tomato lovers to Pennsylvania State University’s College of Agricultural Sciences Extension’s “Tomato Report 2011,” which lists the best varieties in its tomato trials.
Melissa Ozawa, a features editor for gardening at Martha Stewart Living magazine, recommends growing okra and Swiss chard; both are heat- and drought-tolerant. Melons also can handle less water once established because of their deep root systems, she says.
Not all vegetables grow well in all regions, so read seed packets, matching days to maturation to your region’s growing season, Salman advises.
“One of the big problems with horticulture in this country is everyone tries to be one-size-fits-all, and this is just too big of a continent to do that,” he says. “You don’t want to grow a 120-day watermelon in Denver. They can grow those in Texas, but the maturation period in Denver is much shorter.”
Prolific, water-wise herbs include basil, oregano, parsley, thyme and rosemary, says Browning.
Salman offers space-saving planting tips for herbs: Plant lavender and oregano along the dryer edges of your garden, since they’re the most heat-tolerant, and plant Greek oregano and dill, plus annual herbs such as basil and cilantro, among the root vegetables.
Try growing perennials such as rosemary, English thyme, tarragon and lavender in your ornamental beds. They don’t require your vegetable garden’s mineral-rich soil, says Salman.
Drought-tolerant flower varieties include coneflowers, hummingbird mint, salvia and blanket flowers, according to Ozawa. Other cutting-garden winners are cosmos, zinnias, sunflowers and larkspur, says Salman. His favorite late-season bloomer is the Mexican sunflower.
“If there’s a bee or butterfly in a 10-mile radius, they’ll find that Mexican sunflower,” he says.
___
Online:
http://www.highcountrygardens.com
http://extension.psu.edu/plants/vegetable-fruit/research-reports/tomato-report-2011
7 Tips for Creating a Low-Maintenance Garden
Gardens are supposed to relieve stress and be a place of refuge – a place where you unwind and recharge, not a place that creates more stress. But, you might be short of time, short of space, or have other issues that prevent you from starting the garden you want. This does not have to be the case. There are plenty of low maintenance options that still provide a beautiful garden. It just takes a bit of planning.
But, remember: there is no such thing as a “no maintenance” garden. Plants, trees and shrubs are living things, and they need at least basic care to thrive. Here are some tips to make gardening easier while still having a great looking garden.
Plan out you garden. Think about your entire area, your yard or balcony, not just the plants, flowers, and veggies but what else you have now, or might want in your garden. This includes play areas, sitting areas, lawns, dining areas, and even storage areas. Once you know all of the elements you want, try to plan your garden to provide easy access to planting areas via pathways or in specific areas of the garden. Only choose a small area or a small part of your landscape, then put in these other features that require little to no maintenance.
Use low maintenance plants. Choose plants that are pest-resistant, disease-resistant, and drought-tolerant. You will likely never find a plant that is perfect and meets all of your needs, but choose plants that have no known pest problems, have a slow or moderate growth rate, and that don’t produce messy pods or fruits, or shed many leaves or branches. See: 10 Easiest to Grow Vegetables
Group plants with similar needs. If you plant water-thirsty flowers with those that like it dry, you will end up with nothing but conflicts and will create more work for yourself. Research the things you are thinking about planting and find out if they need the same amount of water, grow in the same type of soil, or the same amount of sunlight.
Choose the right plant for the right location. This might seem like it’s unnecessary to say, but think about it. If the site you have doesn’t have the right light intensity and duration, sun availability, or soil type, not only will your plants struggle, but it will require more maintenance.
Choose native plants. They are better adapted to your local area which means they require less overall care, less water and fertilizer. Natives are especially useful in an area that that has “high” needs such as poor soil or limited access to a water source.
Plant more perennials than annuals. They come back year after year, so you don’t have to replant every year. Some easy, low maintenance perennials include coneflower, daisies, daylilies, hosta, peonies, salvias and yarrow.
Use More Hardscape. Replace lawns with pavers in lawn areas or high traffic areas or to create a new patio area. Aside from pavers, you can use gravel or stone to reduce the amount of weeding you need to do.
Top Ten Bee-Friendly Tips: #3-Plant an Herb Garden and Let Half of It Bloom
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Top Ten Bee-Friendly Tips: #3-Plant an Herb Garden and Let Half of It Bloom
Posted by: Rhonda Hayes
Updated: May 12, 2014 – 12:38 PM
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For years I’ve been saying that herbs are the best plants anyone can grow. They’re easy and forgiving. They’re tasty and fragrant. They’re beautiful. And one more thing, they’re great for bees.
Plant an herb garden and let it grow for a while. Pinch and pluck the leaves for any number of uses, like cooking or cosmetics, eat the flowers, eat the foliage, go for it, because most herbs love to be sheared and pruned; the act of harvesting actually makes them grow fuller and bushier.
Then do something for the bees. Stop snipping and picking half of the herbs, or more if you’re feeling generous, and allow them to bloom. Herbs are always trying to bloom, you’ll see their stems start to lengthen like in the case of oregano or sometimes the leaves grow smaller and even change shape, as does basil or mint. Pretty soon the flowers will be covered with bees.
Bees love herb blooms because many consist of lots of little florets, perfectly shaped for browsing and foraging. When bees can work over a large number of blooms in a small area, it helps them to save energy while increasing the amount of nectar they can consume. Herbs save them from making extra trips back to the hive and that’s a good thing.
Bee on fennel flowers
Yes, herbs are easy to grow. But some gardening publications will say they thrive on neglect. It is true that established plants can survive without much attention, but whether planted in the ground or in containers a new herb garden needs care at first; lots of sunlight, well-drained soil and adequate water. (And no matter what you see on Pinterest, you can’t grow herbs in Mason jars. Without a hole for water to drain, they will quickly rot.)
Here’s a list of herbs to start your bee-friendly garden. Get bzzzzy!
Lemon balm
Lavender
Anise hyssop
Hyssop
Borage
Germander
Sage
Savory
Chamomile
Rosemary
Dill
Thyme
Dandelion
Basil
Oregano
Fennel
Mint
Thanks for contributing!
Your comment is being reviewed for inclusion on the site.
Editor’s Note: We are switching commenting systems. The ability to comment will resume on Tuesday.
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Gardener: Tips for growing great tomatoes – starting off right
What would spring be without a refresher on tomato growing success? Even veteran gardeners can experience challenges in growing these beauties to perfection. To be sure, I’ve had my share of challenges along the way. But over the years, I’ve honed my skills to master even the greatest challenges Mother Nature can throw my way. So here are a few of the non-negotiable steps you should employ now and every season to improve your tomato growing talent and get your plants off to the best start possible.
– Location is key. Pick a sunny spot that gets at least six-hours per day. More is better so find the sunniest spot that works. Your plants will be fuller, fruit will form faster, and taste best the more sun they get. Next, don’t plant too closely together. Keep your plants separated by at least two-feet in all directions. It’s amazing how large they will get and they need room to grow while receiving adequate light and air circulation. Your plants will be much healthier for it.
– Start with great soil. Starting with great soil and a healthy plant puts you well on your way to an abundant harvest. You can eliminate most of your tomato growing challenges with these two simple mandates. Well-amended soil, full of rich compost and other organic material can be your secret weapon to having the best tomatoes around.
To illustrate this point, last year I grew tomatoes in raised beds, amended with about two-inches each of compost and composted cow manure. As an experiment, in a neighboring bed, I grew tomatoes in just topsoil – no compost or manure. Over the next three months, the composted tomato bed outperformed the competition in every way, in spite of my best efforts to nurture the non-amended tomato plants to perfection. The composted plants grew vigorously, free from pests and diseases. As the season matured, so did the plants. They were heavy with abundant, delicious large red tomatoes right up until frost. The plants in the other bed did okay but fell short in every category. They were not as lush, and had more disease issues and ultimately less fruit.
– Plant them deep. Planting seedlings deep, very deep is a unique technique used for tomato plants. They’re one of the few vegetables that will grow roots along the stem if they’re in contact with soil. I leave about two sets of leaves showing above the soil when I plant new seedlings. This step will ensure a larger root area and a more vigorous plant.
In the planting hole, I add a tablespoon or two of dolomitic limestone and mix it into the soil. This step can help ward off a condition known as blossom end rot in emerging fruit. Cover the plant and water it in thoroughly. You may want to provide some liquid fertilizer now for a quick boost. As an organic gardener, I prefer to use fish emulsion and sea kelp. This adds nitrogen and phosphorus to get the plants off to a good start.
– Manage the water. Tomato plants like deep watering while keeping the soil consistently moist. A soaker hose is best for this because it allows the water to soak deeply into the soil, without saturating it to excess. Soakers are also great for not wetting the foliage above. Leaves that remain wet for too long can promote diseases that can be avoided by keeping water off the plants.
– Add Mulch. The final step for a great start is to add a two or three inch layer of mulch once the plants are settled. Mulch will help keep the moisture in the soil, prevent soil-borne diseases from splashing on plants and reduce weeds.
These guidelines will get your tomato plants off to a great start. Like with so many examples in gardening and life, how you start out makes all the difference in the world with the success of the harvest.
Joe Lamp’l is the host and executive producer of Growing a Greener World on national public television, and the founder of The joe gardener� Company, devoted to environmentally responsible gardening and sustainable outdoor living.
Top Ten Bee-Friendly Tips: #3-Plant an Herb Garden and Let Half of It Blooom
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Top Ten Bee-Friendly Tips: #3-Plant an Herb Garden and Let Half of It Blooom
Posted by: Rhonda Hayes
Updated: May 11, 2014 – 5:47 AM
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For years I’ve been saying that herbs are the best plants anyone can grow. They’re easy and forgiving. They’re tasty and fragrant. They’re beautiful. And one more thing, they’re great for bees.
Plant an herb garden and let it grow for a while. Pinch and pluck the leaves for any number of uses, like cooking or cosmetics, eat the flowers, eat the foliage, go for it, because most herbs love to be sheared and pruned; the act of harvesting actually makes them grow fuller and bushier.
Then do something for the bees. Stop snipping and picking half of the herbs, or more if you’re feeling generous, and allow them to bloom. Herbs are always trying to bloom, you’ll see their stems start to lengthen like in the case of oregano or sometimes the leaves grow smaller and even change shape, as does basil or mint. Pretty soon the flowers will be covered with bees.
Bees love herb blooms because many consist of lots of little florets, perfectly shaped for browsing and foraging. When bees can work over a large number of blooms in a small area, it helps them to save energy while increasing the amount of nectar they can consume. Herbs save them from making extra trips back to the hive and that’s a good thing.
Bee on fennel flowers
Yes, herbs are easy to grow. But some gardening publications will say they thrive on neglect. It is true that established plants can survive without much attention, but whether planted in the ground or in containers a new herb garden needs care at first; lots of sunlight, well-drained soil and adequate water. (And no matter what you see on Pinterest, you can’t grow herbs in Mason jars. Without a hole for water to drain, they will quickly rot.)
Here’s a list of herbs to start your bee-friendly garden. Get bzzzzy!
Lemon balm
Lavender
Anise hyssop
Hyssop
Borage
Germander
Sage
Savory
Chamomile
Rosemary
Dill
Thyme
Dandelion
Basil
Oregano
Fennel
Mint
Thanks for contributing!
Your comment is being reviewed for inclusion on the site.
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inside the StarTribune
entertainment
Your guide to Minnesota museums
home
Beer me, Minnesota: Find the brew that’s right for you
home
Take a tour of the State Capitol renovation
help
lifestyle
2014 Minnesota Summer Camp Guide
lifestyle
Kid’s’ Health: Latest news and advice
-
425 Portland Av. S.
Minneapolis, MN 55488
(612) 673-4000
- Company
- Subscriber Services
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- <!–
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Gardening expert Colin Parbery gives his tips for May
Gardening expert Colin Parbery gives his tips for May
4:00am Saturday 10th May 2014 in News
By Colin Parbery, Gardening guru
Colin Parbery gives his tips on how to protect your garden
May really is the month when everything springs into life. The birds are in full song, plants are growing, your seeds will be germinating, aphids are swelling in numbers and so are snails! So what to do? There is probably nothing more satisfying than watching your seeds germinate and nothing more disheartening than finding them reduced to slug and snail trails by the morning, so keep a close eye on your garden and vegetable plot.
Tackling slugs and snails early in the season will dramatically reduce their occurrence throughout the summer, so if you haven’t already, it’s time for a tidy up of any broken or discarded pots, pieces of wood, plant debris and stones that make a safe refuge for slugs and snails.
Snails and slugs are a gardenerers worst enemy
Aphids are best treated with an organically approved soap-based product used at regular intervals. As gardeners, we do, however, have a couple of natural allies in ladybirds, (although the larvae eat more aphids than the brightly coloured adults) and, more surprisingly, wasps.
Although a troublesome pest towards the end of summer, wasps are carnivorous in their early life stages and foraging adults seek out aphids to feed their developing larvae.
Aphids can be combated with soap
From the middle of the month there should be little risk of frost and the difference between night time and day time temperatures will have significantly reduced, thus making it a suitable time to sow most of your summer vegetables, although I would still wait until mid-June for very temperature sensitive plants such as basil.
In the flower garden, consider letting plants such as field poppies, Californian poppies, foxgloves, wallflowers and pansies go to seed to ensure a good display for the coming year.
Californian poppies are excellent this time of year
Share Gardening is a social enterprise of Share Community, a charity based in Wandsworth that provides training and employment support for disabled adults.
Share Gardening provides garden maintenance and planting services. To find out more or to get a quote, contact Colin on telephone 020 7924 2949 or email gardening@sharecommunity.org.uk. To find out more about Share’s work, visit www.sharecommunity.org.uk
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Instant Organic Garden: Asparagus Tips
Asparagus is a very popular garden vegetable, but since it’s a perennial it will take up room in your small garden, even though your harvest lasts only one season per year. The good news is that your asparagus plants can be productive for as many as thirty years and the harvest will increase every year!
Start with two year old crowns, male plants are most productive. This is what the crowns look like.
Growing and harvesting asparagus is a balancing act. You want to enjoy a good harvest, but you also need to make sure you don’t deplete the strength of the plants. If you stop harvesting too soon, the plants will send up big ferns and put a lot of energy into the roots. The next year the spears would be thick as a thumb and after that – a big toe! Once your asparagus are established, your goal is to keep continuing your harvest for a long time so the plants don’t get too big.
The trick for the best results in a small garden involves plant spacing and harvest timing. Plant them five inches apart and six inches deep. Spread the thick roots out carefully and cover with soil. Use the pattern shown here to get five plants per square foot.
This is MUCH closer than most gardening manuals recommend, but there are several reasons why we do it this way. First, in our raised bed gardens we have very deep, fertile soil, so each plant doesn’t need as much room.
That’s why I plant them so close together originally. We want them to crowd together and compete for nutrients and not become gigantic. What a wonderful problem to have – a long harvest period for your tender, tasty asparagus!
The first year they’ll send up skinny little shoots, which aren’t very good for eating. Let them grow up into ferns which will soak up the sun all spring and summer and send energy into the roots.
By September your asparagus should be bright green ferns three to five feet tall. You may see some red berries as well. Once the weather starts to cool down your ferns will start to turn a bit brown and die back. Cut them off at the bottom and throw the ferns away. If you let the berries drop to the ground, you’ll have tiny little asparagus plants starting in your garden next year, so feel free to dispose of the ferns in the trash unless you have a hot compost pile.
After their first year, they’ll use their stored energy to send up thicker spears – starting with pencil thickness. These are great to eat – tender and tasty! Use a sharp knife to cut them off below the surface before the buds start to open out into the beginnings of branches. Every time you cut a spear, another will pop up to take its place. If you harvest too long you’ll deplete the plant’s energy, so go easy the first year. Enjoy those thin shoots for 3 – 6 weeks.
The next year is when you’ll be getting a significant harvest of pinky or finger sized shoots. Harvest them for a longer period so they don’t store up too much energy for next year’s crop.
From then on you’ll harvest for longer and longer periods to maintain the balance between harvest times and spear sizes. Enjoy!
Eric Eitel is a farmer, father, personal trainer and owner of Instant Organic Garden Southern Maryland, a business that builds raised bed gardens for homeowners, schools, restaurants and businesses. He gives talks and teaches classes on how to make gardening easy. 443-771-3003 eric@instantorganicgarden.com www.instantorganicgarden.com
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Saturday: Woodside event offers native plants, tips on water-wise gardening
By Kate Daly | Special to the Almanac
A local group of garden lovers is offering fresh plants and fresh ideas on water-wise gardening at its biennial plant sale in Woodside on Saturday, May 10.
The Woodside-Atherton Garden Club is selling hundreds of drought-tolerant natives at the Woodside Library Native Plant Garden from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Janet Larson of Atherton and Sheree Shoch of Woodside are co-chairing the fundraising event.
“We are excited to have such a wide selection of unusual plants that are drought-resilient, yet still grow well in our Mediterranean climate,” Ms. Shoch says. “Our sale presents a great opportunity for people to replace their water-guzzling plants and pick up some tips from experts at the same time.”
The sale takes place every other year, giving club members a chance to propagate and grow plants from seeds in their own yards.
This year varieties include: salvia, ceanothus, mimulus, penstemon, spirea, sedum, cactuses, roses, irises, and vegetables.
Woodside-Atherton Garden Club members will also run a boutique filled with Mother’s Day gifts, such as miniature flower arrangements in teacups, succulent potted plants, hand-painted straw hats, and books on gardening.
In addition to the sale, informational tables will be set up with landscape designer Lori Morris advising on water efficiency, beekeeper Mike Vigo sharing insights on pollination and the honey business, and Save The Bay’s Jack States explaining the group’s plant restoration work.
In cooperation with the Woodside Library, the Woodside-Atherton Garden Club will be introducing the new Woodside Seed Library, which member Barbara Tuffli of Atherton says is “part of a large, significant, national movement” to preserve local plants.
Seed packets of flowers, fruits and vegetables that members have collected will be stored in a chest of drawers at the library. Anybody is welcome to come in and check out the seeds, grow plants, let a few go to seed, and ideally return those seeds to the library so someone else can “borrow” them.
“We’re going to encourage heirloom varieties because of open pollination, and encourage natives,” Ms. Tuffli says. “We’re trying to make (the seed library) sort of educational, make it a community resource, and multi-generational.”
Founded in 1929, the garden club is a nonprofit charitable organization associated with the Garden Club of America. Proceeds from the sale benefit the library garden and other civic projects.
Woodside-Atherton Garden Club members maintain the garden and use it as a showcase to illustrate what natives grow well in the area. Plants are labeled and divided into different sections, such as chaparral, oak woodland, and a redwood grove. The garden is located behind the library at 3140 Woodside Road in Woodside.
Go to woodsideathertongc.org for more information.
Freelance writer Kate Daly is a provisional member of the Woodside-Atherton Garden Club.