When you’re going away on holiday, leaving the garden untended can be a real
worry. Ask a friend to take charge of jobs like deadheading, and you can
reward them with the produce that becomes ready to pick when you’re away. If
you don’t have someone to turn to, there are some alternative solutions,
like tanks that release water and nutrients at set times.

We mentioned a couple of weeks ago that vinca are great plants for our summer desert potted gardens.

In almost any nursery, you’ll find upright vinca, or “pacifica.” These are strong flowering plants that will survive both moderately cool temperatures and desert heat … provided they have enough water.

To the right, you can see what some vinca, planted on July 15, looked like. Above is what they look like after two weeks of blistering temperatures. That’s a lot of growth!

Here are five tips to utilizing this plant—even if you are just starting them in August:

1. Purchase four-inch, quart or gallon plants, with the plant showing good growth, and lots of roots. (Check this at the nursery if you do not see the roots coming out of the bottom.)

2. Plant vinca in the coolest hours of the early morning. Do not heavily disturb their roots but do open up the root ball before planting.

3. Water thoroughly after planting, and water them daily when dry.

4. As vinca grow, the branches will become very long. In order to encourage the plants to bush out more, trim them back often.

5. Looking down the stem, find a new growth shoot, and snip the stem just above that shoot. (See below.) Go deep into the plant to prune for best results. This will create a nicely shaped plant with abundant flowers.

Marylee is the desert’s potted garden expert. Email her with comments and questions at
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Garden award for top tips on security

10:00am Tuesday 30th July 2013 in News

Garden award for top tips on security

A CRIME-CUTTING show garden has clinched an award for its role in helping to keep residents safe from crooks.

The secure garden was set up at Parker’s Garden Centre in Kirby Cross last year.

It is a model garden displaying the top steps residents can take to secure their homes against burglars.

The secure garden initiative, which was put together by the crime prevention team at Clacton police station, has now been handed a top internal award by Essex Police for its innovative approach in tackling burglaries in the area.

They have scooped the Ray Stannard Memorial Trophy, handed out for displays of excellence in crime prevention within the force.

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A Beautiful Spring Green Lawn

Dreaming of greener grass? Longing for relaxing summer evenings in the hammock with a glass of lemonade and full view of a beautifully manicured lawn? You’re not alone. A crossword puzzle I worked recently gave the clue, “suburbanite’s pride.” The answer was an obvious little 4-letter word: “lawn.” All of us though, whether we live in the suburbs or out on a rolling country road, take great pride in a beautiful lawn. It becomes the centerpiece of summer gatherings and the favorite spot for good family times.

Spring and fall are the best times to take a good look at your lawn and do the work necessary to ensure it will be its best come next spring and summer. All lawn maintenance activities are best done in the late summer and early fall. This includes sowing a new lawn, fertilizing, repairing, and reseeding. Here are some tips for fall lawn care that will let you enter winter carefree and anticipate the greener grass of summer.

Garden: Tips for spring lawn maintenence for beautiful spring green grass!

First, determine the status of your lawn right now. Is it (1) already healthy and green with little need of repair; (2) basically in good shape with just a few spots that need some work; or (3) in need of total restoration so that you feel like you need to start from scratch?

A healthy lawn is free of weeds and disease, free of brown and dry spots, has little or no thatch, and doesn’t have you sending the kids out everyday to pick the dandelions. (Thatch, by the way, is a term that means that layer of dense, tangled up grass roots and dead organic material in your lawn’s root zone. It’s bad, and you don’t want it.)

A lawn that does have some bad spots but is basically more than 50 percent good can be restored to perfection with some work. A lawn that has more than 50 percent of it covered with weeds, dry spots, or diseased areas should be totally reworked and begun from scratch.

Once you decide which category you lawn falls into, you are ready to get to work. Even the perfect lawn needs some work this time of year to ensure it will stay that way. The perfect lawn should be fertilized now and again in the spring. Choose an organic fertilizer free of harsh chemical salts. Avoid anything that says “fast acting.” You don’t need fast acting; there’s plenty of time to get the job done, and those fast acting chemicals just kill the earthworms and get to the water supply. Fertilizing in the fall prepares the lawn for winter by inviting strong vigorous growth to build the root system and store energy. Your grass will overwinter better and be ready to face the stress of summer heat if fertilized and strengthened now.

It is very important to not overfertilize. Too much nitrogen is especially harmful to your lawn. Grass will do something called “luxury consumption” when it comes to nitrogen. That means it will just keep on consuming nitrogen if it’s available. The result is too rapid growth and increased susceptibility to disease. Use a slow release organic fertilizer and apply only twice a year according to its directions or at the recommended rate of a soil test.

The perfect lawn should also be treated now for pest control. Many common lawn weeds such as dandelions germinate in the fall when the weather turns cooler. Check your garden supply store for a pre-emergence weed killer and apply according to its directions.

Also, check the “perfect” lawn now for thatch. You should be able to stick your fingers between the clumps of grass. You should also be able to feel the soil when you push your finger through the grass. If all you feel instead is a tangle or roots and matted organic material, you probably have thatch. Thatch keeps your lawn from properly utilizing water, provides habitat for nasty lawn pests, and prevents nutrients from cycling between your grass and the soil.

Early fall is the best time to de-thatch. You can rent a power dethatcher from garden supply centers. After you dethatch, fertilize and water the lawn well. It should recover in about 6 weeks.

The not-so-perfect lawn should also be fertilized and treated for pest control during the fall. Now is a good time to get a soil test done if you haven’t had one in several years. Contact your local extension service about soil testing and follow their recommendations. Brown spots in the lawn can be a result of thatch, overzealous mowing, compacted soil, or lack of water and nutrients. Check for thatch and remove if necessary as described above. Also, make sure that you are mowing at the correct blade height. Most lawn grasses should only be cut by 1/3 of their blade height. If you are cutting shorter than that, you could be damaging the roots and stolons.

If your soil is heavy or seems compacted, it’s a good idea to aerate the lawn now. (A good indicator of a compacted soil is poor water drainage.) A garden aerator can be rented or you can hire a professional to do the job. After aerating, add a topdressing of sand or ground compost. This helps the roots and improves the soil quality.

Now is also the time to take stock of your watering habits. Lawns should be watered in the early morning so grass can dry before sundown; otherwise the wet grass becomes an invitation to disease overnight. Also, be sure to water infrequently and deeply as opposed to very often shallow waterings. Shallow waterings discourage root development and keep the roots from getting down in the soil to where the nutrients are.

To repair bare spots, remove any dead grass and rake some compost into the soil. Then sow new seed.

If you need to start from scratch, be sure to start in time. You will need about 1 and 1/2 months before the first frost. Start by tilling your old lawn. Till up everything–grasses, weeds, all of it. Then fertilize with a good organic fertilizer as described above. If you have a heavy soil, you can also add compost or manure at this time to improve soil tilth. Then, smooth out the area and fill in any low spots. Go over the area with a rake to remove any stones or debris.

Purchase high quality grass seed. Be sure to read the label. Grass seed should have a guaranteed germination rate of at least 75 to 85 percent and it should be less than 0.05 percent weeds by content.

Using a rotary spreader, spread the grass seed over your lawn area. Then cover with weed-free straw. Be sure that you get even distribution of the seed. It’s a good idea to sow half the seed in one direction, then the other half in right angles to the first. Water thoroughly and make sure the seeds receive constant moisture until established.

Then sit back and relax. Your lawn is ready for winter and will bring lots of satisfaction at the coming of spring.

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Abundant and beautiful in local gardens around this time of year are bougainvilleas.

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Durban – After the short days of mid-winter, everything in nature’s garden starts to wake up about the middle of July on the KwaZulu-Natal coast.

We nurserymen have always maintained that spring starts on July 15 in Durban, so get out into your garden now as there is lots to do.

It shouldn’t be too much of a chore as we have glorious gardening weather at this time of year in these eastern parts.

Nothing beats an early show of winter and spring-flowering seedlings – or bedding plants, as they are now called. This is my favourite time of the year for these bright gems, especially all the Ps: pansies, poppies, petunias and primulas. There is a huge variety of “P” seedlings which are easy to grow, are colourful, and will last for months.

Remember, they have to grow, flower and die all in one season, so give them an uninterrupted growing time – regular watering, feeding and “dead heading” (the more you pick, the more they will flower).

Bedding plants can be used in many places – beds, borders, rockeries, pots and hanging baskets.

Pansies, poppies, primulas and petunias are among the flowers that make an early showing as winter rolls over into spring.

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Also abundant and beautiful are bougainvilleas, which are coming in to full flower now.

Easy to grow, drought-tolerant, free of disease and pests, colourful and versatile, they are suitable for pots and tubs, screens, fences, pergolas, banks and shrubberies. They have been on nursery bestseller lists for decades – and rightfully so.

Tropical Rainbow is a variegated yellow and green-leafed variety that is compact growing and keeps its leaf colour all year. It is fantastic in a tub and has bright cherry-red bracts (all bougainvillea flowers are tiny and creamy-white). They flower up to three times a year.

Some varieties have double bracts and are spectacular in flower. Bougainvillea Bridal Bouquet, for example, has double pink and white bracts and is possibly the prettiest.

Durban is famous worldwide for the Natalia variety, with dusty pink bracts which fade on the plant to a parchment pink. It drops its leaves before flowering and is covered in colour – quite breathtaking.

Bougainvilleas require full sun, regular feeding and drought-stress to flower best – so go easy on the water.

July is also the time to start pruning. Roses must be pared down, and it is a good time to cut hedges and topiaries, if you have any.

There is a lot written about the dos and don’ts of pruning, and this sometimes scares gardeners.

Pruning roses is not difficult – just remember you are shaping the plant for future growth and flowering. Remove twiggy, spindly growth first, and thin out and shape the plant. leaving an open shape that allows in the sunlight.

Roses (and most other plants) possess apical dominance, which means they will send sap to the furthestmost growing point first. This means the plant will make a new shoot just below the point where you cut the stem.

Bear this in mind when you prune and you will be able to determine the future growth of the plant. Always prune to an out-facing “eye” to encourage an open shape. Pruning to a downward facing “eye” will encourage a weeping or cascading shape. It takes about 40 to 45 days for newly pruned roses to flower.

After pruning roses it is a good idea to spray them against pests, such as scale and aphids. I do not recommend spraying with a winter spray of lime sulphur as it does not really get cold enough in Durban for the roses to be sufficiently dormant. The lime sulphur will burn any soft growth and set the plant back.

I suggest you rather use a mixture of mineral oil and a general insecticide – ask your nurseryman for advice.

There is now an all-season-long insecticide for roses and other plants which will keep them insect-free for almost a year. It can be applied as a soil drench and is systemic so it travels to all parts of the plant.

It is also effective against white ants. Once you have pruned, give the plant a good feed to encourage maximum growth and performance. Use a 3:1:5 or 5:1:5 fertiliser for flowering plants and roses.

These formulations are deliberately low in the middle number which is for the phosphate content, as it is presumed you have applied the phosphate separately.

Phosphate is important for roots and flower formation. It is slow-acting in the soil, so it is best to apply it separately, once a season.

Bone phosphate or bone meal is the best form of phosphate and is organic, but superphosphate is just as acceptable.

If you need to transplant any shrubs, now is the time to do so. The plants are just beginning to wake up for spring, so will start to grow easily in their new position.

Cut back enough top growth to compensate for the roots that will get left behind when you dig up the plant. Try not to damage the root system, and take as much root as you can.

Dig and prepare a big enough hole to take the plant without cramping the roots, adding compost and bone meal.

Flood the plant into the new hole by using lots of water to wash soil right into the root ball and to expel any air pockets. Stake and support the plant well until you are sure it has established itself.

For excellent advice on planting a shrub, visit the Life is a Garden page on Facebook and follow the link to a YouTube video.

We have had good rains for this time of year, so your lawn will now start to wake up and grow – and, unfortunately, so will the weeds. If it is a bit patchy and sparse, give it a feed of 2:3:2 fertiliser to encourage root formation. Water well.

If your lawn is looking satisfactory, start feeding it with any lawn feed such as 4:1:1 or 3:2:1 or 5:1:5. I prefer to use a slow-release fertiliser that will not leach out of the soil, and does not need watering in.

Grass is shallow-rooted, so the fertiliser mustn’t leach too far down.

There are organic pelleted fertilisers available which are also good as they contain trace elements.

Note, though, that they have a farm smell to them for a day or two after application, so do not apply just before a party.

Mow your lawn long as it is the leaves that are the food factory, and you want your grass to get growing at the same rate as the weeds.

I do not subscribe to the idea of scarifying or decapitating your grass by deliberately mowing as low as possible in spring to encourage growth – it seems self-defeating, and is not required in Durban for the usual grass varieties of Berea, Buffalo or Kearsney.

Kikuyu grass is another story, though, but is not a typical Durban lawn as it grows too vigorously and needs constant mowing. Life is far too short to spend it mowing (or weeding for that matter). – The Mercury

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No part of the country has an endless water supply. Even gardeners dwelling in humid eastern areas have come to expect water restrictions during dry summers. Using water as efficiently as possible makes good sense, no matter where you live and garden. For example, traditional overhead watering loses 50 to 60 percent to evaporation and runoff.

Here are some guidelines to help you make the best use of water in your garden.

-Start with good soil preparation. Adding organic matter will increase the water-holding ability of light soils and improve drainage in heavy ones.
-Choose plants that tolerate dry soil or drought conditions. Specific choices will depend on your climate. Garden for the area you live in by planting native plants.
-Plan your landscape with water conservation in mind. A windbreak of drought-resistant shrubs and trees planted on the windward side of an art exposed site can reduce the water needs of the other plants.
-Use intensive planting methods in the vegetable garden. Closely spaced plants in beds will shade the soil surface, reducing water loss.
– Use mulch to reduce moisture loss from the soil. It will cut down on your weeding chores at the same time.

Gardening Tips: Using water as efficiently as possible

-Drip irrigation will put water right where it’s needed, with little lost to evaporation or runoff.
-If you use sprinklers, water either first thing in the morning or in the evening, to reduce water loss by evaporation in the daytime sun. Apply water only as fast as the soil can absorb it, otherwise you will lose a lot as runoff.
-Reduce the size of your lawn. Even in humid climates, lawns need frequent watering to keep them lush and green through the heat of summer. Keep only as much lawn as you absolutely need for children and dogs. But those of you that need all the lawn you’ve got-and could still use some more-try planting some of the varieties of drought-tolerant turf grasses that have been developed recently.

GET THE MOST FROM YOUR COMPOST THIS SPRING: Despite all its benefits-both for the environment and for your garden-composting can seem like more trouble than it is worth.

Many gardeners who faithfully compost kitchen scraps and lawn clippings find the process takes too long and, when it’s done, there isn’t enough compost for an entire garden. You can avoid this and other common composting problems by adding peat moss to the compost bin and by mixing compost into the soil.

Spring is an especially good time to renovate an existing compost pile, since the compost material has had plenty of time to decompose over the winter.

While it takes some elbow grease, the entire composting process is easier when you incorporate peat. In the compost bin, peat helps produce better compost by speeding up the process, reducing odors and controlling air and water in the compost pile.

Start by mixing a 1-inch layer of peat with every 4 inches of compostable material, being sure to flip over the top layers of organic materials every week or two. Keep the center of the pile moist, but not soggy, by adding water when needed.

Any house will look beautiful with colorful and fragrant flowers in its garden. This not only adds aesthetic as well as monetary value to the house but also helps the inhabitants to relax and enjoy a natural and serene atmosphere. It is a popular belief that gardening is a therapeutic hobby, as you get to do some manual labor which allows you to ease out your worries and cope up with your troubles.

Gardening Tips: Choosing the right tools for gardening

Whether you want to have a garden full of flowers or vegetables, choosing the right gardening tools will help you in doing all the jobs easily, quickly and comfortably. If you are a beginner in gardening, then choosing the right gardening tools may not be that easy for you. There are several tools available out there and you may easily get confused about which one you should purchase. So, let us take some steps back and have a look at which tools are extremely essential for gardening.

A spade is a very important gardening tool that will be needed all through your life dedicated to gardening. This tool is used to dig holes for moving soil, planting, taking away the sods and edging beds. These are in the form of shovels that have short handles and square heads. Another imperative gardening tool is a hand trowel which is used for placing the plants into the soil. It is better to purchase a hand trowel which is made up of stainless steel and which has a rubber grip.

Different types of hoes are also available and you have to choose the one as per your type of garden. If you have a vegetable garden, then a stirrup or standard hoe will be appropriate for you. But if you have a perennial garden, then choose a super-thin hoe for more delicacy in the touch. You will also need a rake that will help you in cleaning up your garden effortlessly. In this way, you will be able to round up the litter quickly and easily and also get rid of weeds and unwanted parts of the plants. A rake made of plastic is a long lasting and durable option.

It is very important to have your garden weed-free and for that, you will need hand cultivator. This is used for turning the soil for seeding, whether you are gardening in containers or garden beds. This has to be used with a pulling and chopping motion and you should choose the one that is attached securely to its base. A pruner is used to shape the plants and remove the spent foliage. Although this is an expensive tool to buy, it will prove to be very useful for you in the long run.

If you are going to do gardening, then you will also need to water your plants regularly. Therefore, having a water hose is just impeccable. It should be enough in length to reach all the areas of your garden. Purchase a hose that is high in quality standard and which also comes with a warranty. Gloves will also be needed to keep your hands clean and away from stings and bruises.

Doing gardening is not very easy and it is extremely rewarding. You will need to keep in well-maintained and for that, you will need most of these gardening tools that you should buy today itself.

Tips and how to for growing hot peppers in your own home food garden.

Peppers, one of the most popular vegetables grown in home gardens, are available in an astonishing variety of colors, shapes, and heat levels. Peppers are not difficult to grow, but most gardeners find that the hotter the pepper, the warmer the weather they need to produce their best.

Choose a variety of hot pepper that suits your taste, and according to the purpose you have in mind. Some “hot” peppers are actually quite mild, but others are so fiery that you need gloves just to harvest them. The heat in peppers comes from a chemical called capsaicin, and is measured in Scoville Units. Seed catalogs often rank their varieties by Scovilles, so you’ll know how hot the peppers (also called “pods”) will be. Much of the capsaicin is concentrated in the seeds, so if you’re using the peppers in a recipe you can choose to either include or discard the seeds to control the level of heat in the finished dish.

Home food garden tips: A guide to growing hot peppers

Peppers are rarely direct-seeded into the garden soil; most growers plant them in seed flats or other seed starting containers early in the spring. If you start your own, make sure they’re in a warm spot with lots of sun or bright grow lights. Peppers can be difficult to germinate; applying bottom heat helps. An ideal spot for the seed flats is the top of the refrigerator – but move the flat as soon as the seeds sprout so it can get plenty of light. Exposing the seedlings to a light breeze or brushing your hand over them several times a day will help them to grow stocky stems.
If you choose to purchase seedlings from a grower, select stocky, bushy plants with a deep emerald green color. Avoid plants with yellow, mottled, or black speckled leaves, as these are signs of disease. If your seedlings have blooms or peppers already developing, you should remove them. This will give your pepper plants a bit more energy for root development before more pods are produced, resulting in a higher yield later on.

Plant your peppers in a location that has fertiled, well-drained soil and gets full sun for at least eight hours a day. They like plenty of nutrients in the soil, so be sure to amend it with plenty of compost or fertilizer. Peppers are not cold-hardy, so you’ll need to wait until you’re certain there will be no frosty nights. The season can be extended somewhat by using plant shelters, but since warm soil is needed too, gardeners in northern climates may need to apply black plastic or landscape cloth for additional heating.

Pests that may nibble on your pepper plants include aphids, flea beetles, and hornworms. If they invade, you may want to apply a spray containing pyrethrins. Alternatively, let them defend each other – make or purchase a hot pepper spray. This hot stuff will defend your peppers, and other garden plants as well, from most pests from bugs to hungry bunnies. This is a great reason to grow hot peppers, even if you don’t want to eat them!

Your peppers are also susceptible to diseases such as tobacco mosaic virus, blossom end rot, verticillium wilt, anthracnose, and bacterial spot. To prevent these diseases from affecting your garden, take the following precautions:

•  If you smoke, wash hands before handling seedlings.
•  Only purchase seedlings from reputable sources, or grow your own.
•  Don’t plant peppers near related plants, such as tomatoes, potatoes, or eggplant.
•  Water thoroughly, regularly, and make sure it’s early enough that the plants have time to dry out before dusk.
•  Space plants properly to allow for good air circulation.
•  Destroy plants that show signs of disease immediately.

Most pepper varieties can be harvested either green or later, when they change their color – whether it’s red, yellow, or even purple. It may be difficult to wait for them to ripen and mature, but ripe peppers have a more complex, full-bodied flavor and are more attractive in dishes.

Once you start growing this versatile, beautiful plant, you’ll want to experiment with every variety there is and with the many ways to serve them. Chances are you’ll run out of garden space long before you run out of hot peppers to grow there.

Making your own water garden pond can be a fun and rewarding weekend project. This is a relatively inexpensive project that can be done on your own with a little hard work and lots of imagination. Although there are several different materials that can be used to line your pond, this article will discuss the PVC liner because it is the most economic and versatile material on the market today. Before you get your shovel out and begin digging, you will need to take into consideration several factors. These things will affect the appearance and finished product of your water garden.

Gardening Tips: Backyard Water Garden

Planning Your Garden

• Where do I plan to install my water garden? This is an important question for several reasons. Safety should be a main concern regarding the location of your pond. Small children and pets should not be able to access your pond. If you live in an area where this is a concern, your pond should be located within a fenced area. Another issue involving the location of your pond should be the amount of sunlight available. A water garden pond needs to have full sun for a good portion of the day. If you choose to place your pond in an area with minimal sunlight, you will easily develop algae problems. The water plants you choose to have in your pond will also not grow properly in areas that receive too much shade.
• Will I have fish in my water garden pond? This is an important question because most fish who make their homes in garden ponds require a depth of at least three feet in order to withstand summer heat and winter cold. This is an average depth for common goldfish who do very well in small outdoor water ponds. If you plan on keeping more exotic fish such as Koi, you will need to have a deeper pond. Fish are an asset to your pond as they will eat unwanted insects and work together with the water plants to keep your pond clean.
• What shape do I want my garden pond? The sky is the limit! Many experts recommend that you use a garden hose to outline several different shapes and see which one suits you best. You should keep in mind that the more curves you place in the outline of your pond, the more difficult it will be to calculate the size of your pond liner. A relatively square pond is the easiest shape to use when installing a PVC liner.
• How deep do I want my garden pond? As outlined above you need to keep proper depth for fish in mind if you are planning on having them reside in your pond. It is recommended that the bottom of your pond vary in depth from 6″ shelves at the edge to at least three feet. The different depths provide a larger selection when choosing water plants and give fish areas to warm themselves or cool off depending on the season. Many plants, called bog plants, only require a depth of six inches of water, while others like the water lily, must have deeper water to grow in. A sloping design or a pond with shelves of various heights is recommended to suit a variety of water plants.

Building Your Garden

Step #1 Excavation

The most difficult part of installing your water garden pond will be the excavation. If you are creating a smaller pond 4′X 6′ or less, a shovel and regular digging tools will work great. As recommended, use a garden hose or string to outline the area that will be dug out. Remember that you will need to have some areas more shallow than others. The easiest way to accomplish this is to either dig your pond shallow to deep at a slope from one end to the other or from side to side. It is also very important to remember that although the bottom of your pond does not need to be level, the top MUST be level. Failure to level the top edges of your pond will result in the water filling at an angle. Another important factor involving excavation that cannot be overlooked is that you will need to have at least three inches between the fill line of your pond and the ground that surrounds it. This ensures that rainwater and groundwater do not flood the pond.

Step #2 Preparing your pond for the liner

Once the area has been dug out you will need to smooth the sides and bottom to protect the liner from potential holes and tears. The bottom of the liner will carry the most weight and it is recommended that at least three inches of regular sand be spread in the bottom of the hole before the liner is installed.

The pond liner should be at least 45-mil thick. These liners can be purchased at many home improvement stores such as Lowe’s or Home Depot or at specialty water garden supply stores. They are usually sold by the foot or yard and you will need to use the following formula to calculate the proper amount of liner you will need.

• Length of pond + 2 times depth of pond + 2 feet = Length of liner you will need
• Depth of pond (deepest part) + 2 times width of pond + 2 feet = Width of liner you will need
  • Example: for a 6′ long by 4′ wide pond that is 3 feet at the deepest part: 6 + 6 + 2 = 14 feet long and 3 + 8 + 2 = 13 feet wide

Step # 3 Installing the liner

It is best to let your pond liner warm in the sun for a few hours before installing it. This makes it more pliable and easier to work with. Pull the liner over the top of the hole and work it carefully down to the bottom of the pond making sure to leave plenty of extra liner all the way around the top edges. The liner edges will be covered and dealt with in the next few steps. You will need to try and remove as many creases and wrinkles as you can but some will remain depending on the shape of your pond.

Step # 4 Filling your water pond with water

Once the liner has been installed, you can begin filling your pond with water. Keep an eye on it as it fills and try to smooth or remove wrinkles and creases once again as the pond begins to fill. You may have to adjust here and there as the weight of the water changes the placement of the liner. You can stop filling when you are three inches from the top of the liner.

Step # 5 Setting the edge of the liner

The best way to set the edge of the pond liner is with stone, brick or concrete paving stones. Choose the material that will fit best with your design plans. The stone or brick should completely cover the edge of the pond liner and fill dirt can be used if needed to cover in between. At this point any excess pond liner can be cut away.

Step # 6 Adding plants to your pond

It is best to wait a few days before adding plants to your pond to allow the water to settle and chemicals such as chlorine to dissipate. There are numerous easy to care for water plants that can be placed in your pond. You will need to pot all of your water garden plants for easy care. You may need to use bricks or stones to set the pots on in order to adjust the depth of your plants. Water lily, Arrowhead, Iris and Cattails are just a few of the plants that will thrive in your new water garden pond.

Your plants will work together with fish (as mentioned earlier) to act as natural filters and cleaners in your pond. A properly planned pond does not require a pump or filter to keep the water clean. Newcomers to water gardening should read up on different types of plants and their growing requirements as well as pond maintenance.

Now you can sit back and relax and enjoy the results of your water garden pond. It is sure to provide hours of enjoyment for you and your friends.

2 Legends … Saturday, Sunday

The words “legend” and “icon” are thrown around rather liberally in the entertainment world today. But two performers coming to area theaters this weekend have earned those monikers, by virtue of both their longevity and contributions to music. Pop crooner Tony Bennett comes to the Hershey Theatre Saturday night at 8, and country singer Loretta Lynn performs Sunday at 3 p.m. at the American Music Theatre. Perhaps best known for his signature song, “I Left My Heart in San Francisco,” Bennett began his decades-long career in the early 1950s with chart-topping songs like “Because of You” and “Rags to Riches.” He has earned 17 Grammy Awards and is one of only a handful of artists to have new albums charting in the ’50s, ’60s, ’70s, ’80s and ’90s and ’10s. Tickets for his concert range from $75 to $151. Call 534-3405 or visit hersheytheatre.com. Lynn is the embodiment of classic country music. Born in Kentucky to a coal-miner father, she was married at 15. Her tumultuous relationship with her husband (who died in 1996) helped to inspire songs like “Don’t Come Home A’ Drinkin’ (With Lovin’ on Your Mind).” Her song’s themes focused on blue-collar and women’s issues and appealed to the masses with their straightforward nature. In her 50 years of performing, she has charted 16 number-one singles. Lynn is also the author of an autobiography which in 1980 was made into an Academy Award-winning film, “Coal Miner’s Daughter,” starring Sissy Spacek and Tommy Lee Jones. Tickets for Lynn’s concert are nearly sold out. If available, they are $55. Call the theater at 397-7700 or visit amtshows.com.

Blue vs. Gray … Saturday, Sunday

When visiting the grounds of Landis Valley, history always comes alive. But this weekend, it will do so with a vengeance. On Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., the generally bucolic landscape will be transformed into a Civil War camp, complete with musket firing demonstrations and cavalry drills (cover your ears). During the event, visitors can wander (or take a horse-drawn wagon ride) around the camp meeting soldiers as they go about the gritty business of military life in the field. Witness a bayonet drill, sit in on mail call, check out the rations, meet the generals and just get a feel for what it must have been like in such a volatile period of our nation’s past. Both Union and Confederate forces will be represented. A variety of speakers will enlighten listeners on an array of Civil War-era topics. Period games like croquet and grace will be available for kids to play. They can also paint a wooden top, decorate a Civil War flag or participate in a number of other crafts. All the activities are included in the museum’s regular admission of $12 for adults, $10 for seniors and $8 for children 6 to 11. Kids 5 and under get in free. For more information, call 569-0401 or visit landisvalleymuseum.org. The museum is located at 2451 Kissel Hill Road.

Diggin’ It … Saturday

Whether or not you come equipped with a green thumb, you can learn to experience your garden in a new way during Saturday’s Summer Garden Experience at the Penn State Southeast AG Research and Extension Center’s Landisville Farm. The name may sound intimidating, but the grounds are welcoming and the event is a must-do for garden lovers. Once a year, the folks at the farm open their doors to the public for a day of speakers and educational sessions, and offer the opportunity for visitors to tour the grounds. Throughout the day short seminars will be held on a variety of topics, including Gardening for Wildlife Winemaking, Understanding Heirlooms Season Extenders, Idea Garden Veggies Herbs, Invasive Plant Control Turf Topics, Container Vegetables, Beekeeping Basics and more. Lancaster County Master Gardeners will be on hand to show you their native plant, rain, and pollinator gardens, decorative vegetable and herb garden, and raised beds filled with vegetables, perennials, and annuals. Visitors can take guided wagon tours of the farm, learn how to build a bluebird box, buy native plants to take home to their own garden, discover the correct way to prune a tree and much more during this activity-packed day. The event’s featured speaker is Jack Hubley, who will enlighten audiences about the backyard wildlife they may encounter — including some live furry and/or feathery examples. The Penn State Research Farm is located at 1446 Auction Rd, Manheim, and admission is $10 a carload. For details, visit extension.psu.edu/events.

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