• Try holly “Sparkleberry” this winter. This deciduous (looses its leaves in winter) holly produces a show stopping abundance of red berries and grows to about 12 feet. This is a female holly, so you will need to also buy holly “Apollo,” which is a male holly, for pollination. Plant “Sparkleberry” in groups of three to five shrubs for best show. Use one male plant for every five or so female plants.

• Use cuttings of holly, boxwood, magnolia, pittosporum, acuba, ivey, fern, yew, arborvitae and other evergreens for quick holiday decorating. Use silver, gold and red spray paint on leaves to add color to holiday decorations all around your home.

• Use water-absorbing floral foam in containers to extend the life of greenery and flowers used for centerpiece decorations.

• Buy Christmas cactus (zygocactus) now. Buy plants that are just beginning to bloom. Place plants in bright, indirect light and water when the soil is dry to the touch. These plants will re-bloom next year at the same time. Easy!

• Plant amaryllis, “Paper White” narcissus, tulips and hyacinths indoors now for blooms in the dreary month of February.

• What’s blooming in late December? Daphne odora. This evergreen, small shrub prefers shade and well drained soil. It’s beautiful and fragrant.

• Don’t forget to water landscape shrubs every two weeks in the absence of rain.

• Pansies looking puny? Give them a good soaking of liquid fertilizer at the recommended dose.

• Merry Christmas and happy holidays to all of you!

Todd Goulding provides residential landscape design consultations. Contact him at 478-345-0719, www.fernvalley.com or on Facebook.

Last summer I received several inquiries about the tropical mandevilla vine and the culture. It is seldom seen growing in the north as it is not hardy and only grows all year outdoors in the deep south.

The vine usually is grown as a potted plant with pink or rose trumpet-like flowers that last from June to September. When fall arrives, it stops blooming as soon as temperatures go below 60 degrees.

As for winter care, if you want to keep the plant there are two choices: either move the potted plant into a sunroom and let it bloom all winter, then move it back outdoors in late May. Or you can move the plant indoors in a cool area with bright light and barely keep it alive with gradual watering. You may have to move it to different places indoors to find which area works best.

Another choice is to let the plant be killed by frost and purchase a new vine each spring as it may be too difficult to move a large, heavy pot indoors at season’s end. The small cost per plant and the enjoyment derived during the summer and early fall may offset the cost of a new plant.

We visit a rural restaurant in Wayne County several times each summer. At the front entrance is a mandevilla vine growing in a large pot. The flowers are attractive and the same color each summer. It is likely the plant is stored indoors during winter.

I also see a mandevilla vine at a home on Trimble Road near First Presbyterian Church. A pink-flowered vine grows up a cord to the roof of the garage. It has a western exposure. Each time I pass there, the vine has grown taller.

If you grow other potted plants successfully, you should do well with a mandevilla. The only difference is the need for some vertical support.

Mandevilla culture

• Container: Grow in a pot so the vine can be moved indoors during winter. The larger the pot, the larger the vine and more flowers produced. Be aware that a large pot is difficult to move. The diamater of your put can range from 12 to 16 inches. A trellis can be attached to a support in back of the pot to provide a place of attachment for the vine.

• Soil: Soil mix should include a generous amount of organic matter. A mix of half soilless mix with half compost or other organic material works well. A 100 percent soilless mix should produce a healthy plant with many flowers if a regular feeding schedule is followed.

• Fertilizer: Add to the soil mix at potting time 3 or 4 tablespoons of Osmocote, a slow-release fertilizer with a balanced ratio of 14-14-14. In addition, feed with a water soluble fertilizer at half strength every three weeks. A large potted flowering vine needs regular feeding as the daily watering also drains out nutrients. If a vine is flowering well and has healthy green foliage, that is an indication it is “happy” with the culture methods.

• Watering: This tropical vine requires ample water, more on hot days. Such a tall growing plant has much vine tissue to feed and that requires more water than you think. On a hot summer day, you may need to water two or three times. Keep the soil evenly moist with good drainage. Mulch the soil in the pot with at least one inch of organic mulch to reduce evaporation of water from the upper soil.

• Location: Mandevilla likes sun, but a few hours of part-time sun is acceptable. The first year you may want to grow two plants at different sites in terms of sun. A site with hot late afternoon sun is undesirable.

• Temperature: A summer range of 75 to 80 degrees is very good. A lower temperature in the 60s is too cool for good flowering. On very hot days, frequent misting helps maintain higher humidity and cools the plant.

Fire Chief William Castoro and his officers and members of the Garden City Fire Department, want to share important holiday safety tips with our residents. According to the United States Fire Administration, each year fires occurring during the holiday season claim the lives of over 400 people, injure 1,650 more, and cause over $990 million in damage. By following simple safety tips, as recommended by the United States Fire Administration, our residents can enjoy a safe and joyous holiday season. The USFA tips are as follows:

As for Christmas trees, needles on fresh trees should be green and hard to pull back from the branches, and the needle should not break if the tree has been freshly cut. The trunk should be sticky to the touch. Old trees can be identified by bouncing the tree trunk on the ground. If many needles fall off, the tree has been cut too long, has probably dried out, and is a fire hazard. When caring for your tree, do not place your tree close to a heat source, including a fireplace or heat vent. The heat will dry out the tree, causing it to be more easily ignited by heat, flame or sparks. Be careful not to smoke or drop or flick cigarette ashes near a tree. Do not put your live tree up too early or leave it up for longer than two weeks. Keep the tree stand filled with water at all times. And when disposing of your tree, never put tree branches or needles in a fireplace or wood burning stove. When the tree becomes dry, discard it promptly. The best way to dispose of your tree is by taking it to a recycling center or having it hauled away by a community pick-up service. For artificial trees, if you are using a metallic or other artificial tree, make sure it is flame retardant.

With regards to holiday lights, inspect holiday lights each year for frayed wires, bare spots, gaps in the insulation, broken or cracked sockets, and excessive kinking or wear before putting them up. Use only lighting listed by an approved testing laboratory. Do not link more than three light strands, unless the directions indicate it is safe. Make sure to periodically check the wires – they should not be warm to the touch. And, of course, do not leave holiday lights unattended. Turn off all lights on trees and other decorations when you go to bed or leave the house.

As for holiday decorations, Use only nonflammable decorations. All decorations should be nonflammable or flameretardant and placed away from heat sources and vents. Also, never put wrapping paper in a fireplace. It can result in a very large fire, throwing off dangerous sparks and embers and may result in a chimney fire. Also, avoid using lit candles. If you do use them, make sure they are in stable holders and place them where they cannot be easily knocked down. Never leave the house with candles burning. Never put lit candles on a tree. Do not go near a Christmas tree with an open flame – candles, lighters or matches.

Finally, as in every season, have working smoke alarms installed on every level of your home, test them monthly and keep them clean and equipped with fresh batteries at all times. Know when and how to call for help. And remember to practice your home escape plan. Garden City Fire Chief William Castoro would like to extend all our residents and their families a safe and happy holiday season.

Now is the time for all “good gardeners” to start thinking about pruning.

Begin with roses. They are tolerant of mistakes and you can apply the principles of pruning to larger shrubs and trees, without getting out your ladder. Roses should be pruned around the time of the last frost and before they start putting out new growth.

It helps in pruning if you know the types of roses you have:

• Hybrid teas produce large, single flowers on plants that can grow 2 to 4 feet. Prune four to six canes to 1 to 3 feet depending on the size of shrub you desire.
• Floribunda roses produce many flowers on each stem. Floribundas are generally smaller than hybrid teas and are pruned by heading back the canes to about one-third of their length.
• Shrub and old roses have a twiggy growth habit. Minimum pruning is desirable as they flower on old wood.
• Climbing roses and ramblers are best left to climb and ramble the first few years after planting. Limit the number of canes to about four to six. When mature, prune the lateral shoots that develop from the main cane back to two or three growth buds.
• Tree roses need only to be pruned on the grafted bushy head. Prune it according to the type of rose that has been grafted at the top, following the directions above.

If all of this seems too complicated, just use your instincts. Take out weak or damaged wood. Don’t worry too much about “five leaflet leaf sets,” etc. Too many rules will frustrate you. Keep it simple. As a rule of thumb, don’t reduce the height of a rose more than one-third. If you planted a tall rose in a space where you’d like a short one, move it and plant one that is the appropriate size.

Approach rose pruning with confidence. It’s hard to make a mistake. A rose is forgiving and roses grow back quickly. Get out your gloves and clippers and get started.

For more details on pruning roses, visit www.ucanr.edu and search for “rose pruning.” You’ll find tips on pruning roses of all types.

Feeding tips for garden birds facing battle for survival over winter months

4:35pm Wednesday 11th December 2013 in News

By Sarah Trotter

A fieldfare eating an apple in the snow, picture courtesy of RSPB

AS A wintry chill creeps over News Shopper’s patch, experts are warning about the plight of wild birds. SARAH TROTTER digs out tips for feeding feathered friends in the garden.

PLUNGING temperatures and ice this winter will leave garden birds “vulnerable”, hungry and battling to survive, experts say.

Residents are urged to leave high energy foods such as peanuts, fat balls, and black sunflower seeds out regularly for them.

It comes after pet shop chain Pets At Home found 59 per cent of Brits rarely or never fed birds during the winter months last year.

Store manager at Blackheath’s Pets at Home, Nick Briscoe, said: “Wild birds are particularly vulnerable at this time of the year because the majority of people often forget to put food out for them.

“Combined with the freezing cold weather, it can be a very difficult for the birds to survive.”

While senior conservation officer for nature conservation charity RSPB in the south east, Lucy Baker, added: “Feedings birds can make a real difference, particularly when the weather is cold.

“At this time of year, there are a lot more birds in your garden looking for food.

“They need higher energy foods for when the winter really gets cold. Things like fat balls will keep them warm.”

She added: “Something people often forget is a supply of drinking water.”

She suggested gently breaking ice in a frozen pond to keep water flowing or putting a ball in the pond to stop it freezing over.

Speaking of the importance of setting up a regular feeding routine, she added: “They will forage where they can, if they know they are getting a nice regular supply of food, that is good for them and they can save energy rather than forage.”

Top wild bird foods:

• Bird seed mixtures – better ones contain plenty of flaked maize, sunflower seeds, and peanut granules. Avoid seed mixtures that have split peas, beans, dried rice or lentils.
• Fat balls – high energy treats. Make your own by pouring melted fat, such as suet or lard, onto a mixture of ingredients such as seeds, nuts, dried fruit, oatmeal, cheese and cake. Use about one-third fat to two-thirds mixture. Stir in a bowl and set in a container such as an empty coconut shell or plastic cup
• Peanuts: Rich in fat and popular with many wild birds, especially tits and sparrows. Do not use salted or dry roasted peanuts and buy from a reputable dealer
• Sunflower hearts: One of the highest sources of energy for wild birds. No mess as the husk is already removed. Particularly attractive to finches, tits, blackbirds and house sparrows
• Black sunflower seeds: Very high in oil content, providing lots of energy. Ideal for chaffinches, greenfinches, sparrows and tits
• Mealworms: Very high in protein. A favourite for robins, blue tits and songbirds -Need to be fresh
• Cooked rice, brown or white, without salt added, will be eaten during severe winter weather.

Do not use:

– Dry dog and cat biscuits as birds may choke on the hard lumps.

– Cooked fat from roasting tins and dishes is bad for birds – Mouldy and stale food – Never give milk to any bird.

– Polyunsaturated margarines or vegetable oils – cooked porridge oats

For more information and to buy feed visit petsathome.com/shop/wildlife/wildlife-food-feeders/ or rspb.org.uk

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Comments (2)

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6:38am Thu 12 Dec 13

Witchkid

says…

Please give a thought to the once common House Sparrow when feeding birds. They are now on the RSPB Red List, and their numbers are declining rapidly. This could be due to insecticides, because baby sparrows need insects, not seed, and definitely not bread. With the cold Springs we’ve been having, there is no food, and the babies die. Putting out mealworms (dried are fine) will ensure they survive. Once sparrows and other birds know there is a regular food source, they will come to your garden, and during the warmer months will repay you by clearing aphids and greenfly from your plants!

Starlings are also declining. They eat fruit and insects, not bread as is commonly thought. A nice mix of dried mealworms and sultanas is perfect. During the colder months, a box or two of suet mixed in with the bird food will go down a treat, and help the birds to stay warm.

Waterfowl also appreciate being fed, but please do not feed them white bread. They will eat it, but it causes malnutrition, especially in young birds, which can result in wing deformity. Cheap bird food containing maize and wheat is excellent for them. If you must feed them bread, make it granary.

Please give a thought to the once common House Sparrow when feeding birds. They are now on the RSPB Red List, and their numbers are declining rapidly. This could be due to insecticides, because baby sparrows need insects, not seed, and definitely not bread. With the cold Springs we’ve been having, there is no food, and the babies die. Putting out mealworms (dried are fine) will ensure they survive. Once sparrows and other birds know there is a regular food source, they will come to your garden, and during the warmer months will repay you by clearing aphids and greenfly from your plants!

Starlings are also declining. They eat fruit and insects, not bread as is commonly thought. A nice mix of dried mealworms and sultanas is perfect. During the colder months, a box or two of suet mixed in with the bird food will go down a treat, and help the birds to stay warm.

Waterfowl also appreciate being fed, but please do not feed them white bread. They will eat it, but it causes malnutrition, especially in young birds, which can result in wing deformity. Cheap bird food containing maize and wheat is excellent for them. If you must feed them bread, make it granary.
Witchkid

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Mimosa Garden Club met Nov. 21, at the home of Shirley Diederich. Claudia Boles and Sallie Moreland helped prepare refreshments for the meeting. Anita Elrod gave an American Thanksgiving Prayer for the devotional.

Virginia Rainey gave a flower design demonstration of a Thanksgiving centerpiece. She also discussed how to condition the flowers she used in the arrangement and gave tips on different tricks in making arrangements.

Rainey is a National Garden Club Master Flower Show judge and a National Garden Club design instructor. She is also a member of Mimosa.

Arrangements were brought by Elizabeth Simmons, a large airy fall arrangements in a silver bowl and Pat Funchess, a fall potpourri arrangement in a Mason jar. Mimosa’s Christmas Luncheon will be held at The Red Shutter Inn in Starr, on Dec. 19.