While Honeybee Colony Collapse  Disorder (CCD) is relatively uncommon in West Virginia, bees and pollinators are still threatened in the region and all across the country. About a third of all of our foods (and beverages) come from crops pollinated by these insects. There’s growing concern that pesticides and certain farming practices are at the heart of the crisis, so more and more gardeners are stepping up to support pollinators in their own yards and fields. Meet the Johnsons.

Emilie and Bill Johnson of Morgantown are Master Gardeners, meaning they’ve been trained and either volunteer or teach horticulture through a national Master Gardener program. They have become passionate, quite accidentally, about supporting pollinators. Here are five tips to help you do the same:

1. Pollinators come in many shapes and sizes.

What started as a desire to encourage more butterfly visits became an interest in encouraging visits from all sorts of pollinators including honey bees and native bees, dragonflies, mayflies, and even humming birds and bats.

“We love the beautiful garden, too,” Bill said, “so it’s not just about gardening for insects. It’s about gardening for people as well!”

Bill also points out that a butterfly is only an adult butterfly for a small portion of its total lifespan, and many early incarnations of butterflies require very specific plants.

The Johnsons grow milkweed for Monarch Butterfly larvae, for example. Monarchs are the big black, orange, and white migratory butterflies in grave danger of disappearing because of loss of habitat and other factors.

2. Keep it wild—or as wild as you can handle.

In fact, the Johnsons grow a variety of milkweeds as well as other native and wild plants because, apparently, bugs love the native stuff.

“Find a part of your garden that you can let go wild, or as wild as you can stand it and put native plants in or plants that people might think of as weeds,” Bill said. He cautions others about introducing plants that might be (or become) invasive.

3. Don’t keep a lawn, keep a “clipped meadow.”

While the Johnsons won’t claim coining the phrase, “clipped meadow,” it gets to the point. From about 20 feet away, you might be able to discern some clover or a dandy lion in the yard, maybe. Johnson shrugs when he says he’s given up a monoculture-grass lawn.

“Clover is a legume and legumes are the only plant family that I know of that actually fixes nitrogen out of the air and puts the nitrogen into the soil. So there’s a synergy between the clover and the grass. Why put chemical nitrogen on your lawn when you can have clover do the job,” Bill said.

The Johnsons admit that they aren’t organic gardeners. But they, like many, are worried about pesticide use. According to a recent study by Harvard’s School of Public Health, pesticides are at the heart of colony collapse disorder (CCD). And the Environmental Protection Agency indicates that there is data to implicate one of the most commonly used pesticides, called neonicotinoids. The agency reports that residues from the pesticide, “can accumulate in pollen and nectar of treated plants and may represent a potential exposure to pollinators.”

4. Pollinate your own food.

Thirty percent of our food effusively depends on honeybees alone. The value of their pollination services is often measured by farmers and economists in billions of dollars. And the Johnson’s have come to learn that they, too, can take advantage of this free service to grow their own apples, blueberries, raspberries, and lots of herbs, too.  The Johnsons report that pollinators love herbs like thyme, lavender and basil.

5. Anyone can do it.

Emilie said, as more and more information is being circulated on the subject of pollinators and gardening, Farmers Markets are a good place to get educated. And you don’t need a green thumb to grow some pollinator-friendly foods and plants.

“Anybody can help,” she said. “Anybody can plant a few things. Everyone can get in on this. It’s a fun thing, especially for kids! Kids love bugs!”

From a community garden, to a box of herbs on your deck or in a window box, Emilie said, the pollinators will find you.

Stay green while using your green thumb this week. With all that earth-tending you may be doing, make sure you know the dos and don’ts of garden-related recycling, too.

Plastic flower pots: Recycle in your bin or cart at home, so long as they are smaller than two gallons. Though all plastic flower pots are not created equal, our buyers have a way of dealing with those that meet their recycling specifications and those that do not, and they are willing to sort them out. It’s best to keep recycling them.

Plastic plug trays: These are a different story. These thin, easily crumpled or torn black plastic containers are a no-no for all of our buyers, across the board. That makes them one of the few exceptions to the general “all containers two gallons and smaller” rule. They should be tossed in the trash if they can’t be reused.

Empty fertilizer bag: These plastic bags certainly stretch, but they are not clear or translucent — the other half of the plastic bag and film rule of thumb for products eligible for recycling at large groceries, pharmacies, and big-box stores in R.I. These heavy-colored opaque bags belong in your trash.

Leftover fertilizer: Use it up! If not, this material is household hazardous waste. Call our Eco-Depot program for a free appointment at (401) 942-1430 ext. 241 or make an appointment on our website: rirrc.org/ecodepot. Next year, try fertilizing nature’s way with our “Class A” compost (sold at RIRRC for $30 a yard) or your own.

Landscaping rocks: People will be looking for these to accent their own gardens. Post yours on Craigslist (providence.craigslist.org), FreeCycle (freecycle.org) or our Reuse Marketplace (reusemarketplace.org), and let a fellow Rhode Islander take them off your hands.

Krystal Noiseux is program manager at Rhode Island Resource Recovery.

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How can you get the most yield from a garden where space is limited, and water is too?

Plant smart, and pay attention to the soil.

“Your garden is only as good as your soil,” says David Salman, chief horticulturist at High Country Gardens, a Santa Fe, N.M., catalog that specializes in native and low-water plants.

Find out what nutrients your soil has — and what it’s missing — with a soil test, available through local cooperative extension offices at a nominal fee (home soil-test kits are less reliable, according to the Colorado State University Extension).

Encourage plant health by fertilizing with natural, organic fertilizers, which include fish emulsion and liquid seaweed, says Salman. Limit the use of chemical fertilizers because they don’t help build the soil.

“You will have more nutritionally complete vegetables if you have healthy soil,” he promises.

One trick Salmon recommends, especially for gardeners living in new housing developments, is adding a soil inoculant called mycorrhiza, a beneficial fungi. It’s found naturally in healthy soil, but often needs to be added to a new garden.

“New gardens in new subdivisions, their soil is scraped off as part of construction,” says Salman. “You need to put beneficial fungi back in.”

Peas, beans and soybeans could benefit from legume inoculants, which are species-specific (a soybean inoculant cannot be used to aid peas’ growth). Read product labels carefully or ask your gardening center for assistance.

“Your beans will do OK (without it), but if you really want to crank out the beans, you can do that with the inoculant,” says Salman. “It’s kind of a ‘grandma’s secret’ to growing great beans.”

Plants that can offer high yields with low watering include leafy vegetables such as kale, lettuce and spinach; beans, snow peas and sugar snap peas; and some varieties of cucumbers, he says. Plant vining beans and peas if you have space or can grow them up a fence or trellis; plant bush beans and peas in large pots if space is limited.

Plant radishes early in the season or in part shade, and mulch them and other plants to retain moisture and combat weeds.

Posted: Saturday, May 31, 2014 12:00 am

House Calls: Lawn care tips

By Erin Larson House Calls contributor

Leader-Telegram

For many homeowners, it is a constant battle to keep their yard looking healthy, especially during the hot summer months.

Use the following tips to help build and maintain a beautiful lawn.

Water during the early morning hours. This gives the water a chance to soak in and reach the grass roots.

Avoid watering during the heat of the day. Water will evaporate quickly during the heat and wind. Not only is it inefficient, but the water gets warm and may cause the grass to wilt.

Avoid watering late in the evening. Having a wet lawn overnight will increase the chances of weeds or a lawn disease developing.

Consider adding a rain sensor to your irrigation system. This will ensure the system is not watering while it is raining.

If you have new seed, you will need to water daily for approximately four to six weeks.

Mowing advice

Avoid mowing during the heat of the day. The hot summer sun can damage a newly exposed grass blade.

Keep your mower height set at 2 1/2- to 3-inches. When grass is cut too short it can cause brown spots in the lawn, which lead to a higher chance of weeds and disease.

Aim for mowing no more than one third of the blade. Mowing more causes the shaft to be cut and exposed, which damages the grass. Mow less of the height, more frequently.

Keep the blades on your mower sharp. A dull blade begins to shred the grass instead of cutting it.

Watering the day before you mow can help avoid the browning of the grass tips.

Alternate the direction of mowing. This will ensure the grass blades are cut and not bent over as well as prevent “rutting.”

Fertilizing methods

Use 4 pounds of fertilizer per 1000 square feet of yard over the course of the season.

Crabgrass preventer should be applied in early spring before the soil temperature reaches 55 degrees.

It is important to use a slow-release granular fertilizer to avoid surge growth. This will keep your lawn a consistent green color throughout the season while reducing the chance of burn.

Manage the pH level to get the most from nutrients. Lime is used to neutralize the soil pH. It takes adequate rates and time to receive the benefits.

Erin Larson is the lawn care coordinator at RainMaster Lawn Systems, 3445 London Road. House Calls is submitted by members of the Chippewa Valley Home Builders Association. If you have a question for local builders, remodelers, real estate companies, home financiers or other association members, email info@cvhomebuilders.com.

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Saturday, May 31, 2014 12:00 am.

Plant vs. Zombies: Garden Warfare is the successor of the infamous puzzle game, which has won over the hearts of both young and old.

Even though the game is not yet available on all platforms, players are already spending tons of hours playing its Xbox 360 and Xbox One versions. With addictive gameplay and playful visuals, the multiplayer shooter may seem simple at first, but is quite comprehensive in its design. That’s why this guide for cheats, tips and more exists. To help players with advanced tactics to help them achieve great victories, here are a few tips and things to look out for.

The New Abilities

Plant vs. Zombies: Garden Warfare is quite different than its predecessor. Even though the basic gameplay as well as most of the characters remain the same, there are a few new abilities a player should look out for. When someone unlocks new character ability, there is always a short cut scene that shows you what it does and how to use it. For a player to use the ability at its full potential, one should take the time and learn exactly what that ability is used for. For example, the Peashooter root ability lets a player “plant” themselves and concentrate the fire on the enemies better. Although, the movement of the player is limited when using this ability, the aiming is much more precise.

Defense is The Right Offense

A player should concentrate to learn right defensive tactics in order to succeed in Plant vs. Zombies: Garden Warfare. That being said, positioning the troops is an important part of the gameplay. For example, the Peashooter and the Cactus are great when used from a distance, because they are able to see enemies from afar. Setting Chomper hiding underground and waiting for a health point to spawn is also a nice tactic in the game.

The Drones are a Powerful tool

If a player is playing as a cactus in Plant vs. Zombies: Garden Warfare, shooting the spikes from a distance is quite a powerful ability. However, unlocking the garlic drones in order to shoot enemies from above is quite important too. These secondary tools provide the player with the required safety, as they let them shoot enemies from the sky, while they don’t have to worry about their own health. Moreover, the drones are small enough and tough to hit from a distance. If a player learns how to use them to their advantage, the game becomes far easier.

Spend the Coins Wisely

Even though most players most probably already do this, it is worth noticing that the Plant vs. Zombies: Garden Warfare coins should be spent on expensive sticker packs. This investment is definitely worthwhile, because the more expensive packs add far more powerful units to the battlefield.

Plants vs. Zombies: Garden Warfare was released in February, 2014 for the Xbox 360 and the Xbox One. Releases are expected for the PC in June this year and later on for the PlayStation 3 and the PlayStation 4 in August this year.

“Help! My plant has curled leaves. What’s wrong?” This is a question that I often get asked, but there is no easy answer. Curled or distorted leaves can be caused by more than one thing. Aphids, weed killers and plant viruses cause malformed leaves on plants.

You might think aphids would be the easiest of these to diagnose. You just have to look for these little plant suckers inside the curled leaves. Aphids are pear-shaped, soft-bodied insects that are fairly small, ranging in size from less than 1/16 inch to more than 1/8 of an inch long.

Aphids can be green, yellow, gray, pink-purple or even black. Typically, they are found in groups on tender new growth and buds. Their numbers can quickly build up because early in the season, all the aphids are females that give birth to live females that produce more females and so forth. They don’t need males to reproduce.

Aphids feed on plants by sucking out sap with a piercing, sucking mouth, sort of like a straw in a juice box. When aphid numbers are small, they don’t do much damage to plants, but large populations can stunt growth. Some aphids also inject a toxic saliva that causes distorted growth. These curled leaves then provide the aphids with protection from some predators and pesticide sprays.

Two aphids that often cause severe leaf curling are the green peach and the wooly ash. However, when gardeners uncurl malformed leaves to look for these aphids, they may not find them. That is because the aphids have departed their early spring hosts and moved to summer hosts before they return in the fall. The green peach aphid, which attacks plums, peaches and nectarines in early spring, spends the summer on weeds and vegetable crops.

The wooly ash aphid has a body covered with waxy secretions that makes it look “wooly.” These aphids feed on new growth of ash trees in the spring and then spend the summer on the roots of the trees. They move back to the top to mate in the fall.

In the past, when gardeners encountered clusters of aphids on their plants, they would rely on chemicals to help manage the problem. Today, gardeners are encouraged to try nonchemical approaches first.

— Avoid applying high levels of nitrogen fertilizer, which promote excessive vegetative or lush, soft growth that favors aphid feeding.

— Knock aphids off a plant using a forceful stream of water, taking care not to harm the plant. The aphids will not climb back onto the plant.

— Learn to recognize and encourage natural predators and parasites that feast on aphids.

— Control ants feeding on the honeydew (sugary plant sap) secreted by the aphids. They actually protect aphids from predators.

If you decide to use a pesticide spray, avoid broad spectrum insecticides that will also kill aphid predators. Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils will effectively control aphids present and visible on plant shoots and leaves. These are contact insecticides and must come in direct contact with the aphid bodies to be effective. Because many aphids feed on the bottom sides of leaves, be sure to get good coverage when using these materials.

Most aphids that feed on woody plants early in the season, such as the green peach aphid and the wooly ash aphid, are best controlled with delayed-dormant sprays in late winter just as the buds start to open.

— Marianne C. Ophardt is a horticulturist for Washington State University Benton County Extension.

Tips from Jennifer Davit, Director, The Lurie Garden

• Replace annuals with perennials, especially those native to prairies, which require little water and no fertilizer.
• Beyond color, choose textures, movement and fragrances that appeal to you.
• Many perennials attract wildlife, because they provide nectar and pollen.
• Plant perennials 15 to 20 inches apart with the crown at the ground level – don’t plant too deep.
• Depending on the plant needs, you may not need much fertilizer.
• Water when signs of stress become evident. Avoid using hardwood mulch around perennials; use leaf mulch or the plants clippings as natural mulch instead.
• Avoid insecticides.

EVENT:

Lurie Garden Spring Festival Plant Sale Saturday, June 7, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

The Lurie Garden in Millennium Park

www.luriegarden.org

 

• By Marcia Kauffman – Victoria County Master GardenerEdited by Charla Borchers Leon
• Originally published May 29, 2014 at midnight, updated May 29, 2014 at 4:36 p.m.

• 

• 

• 

• Transitional Texas Superstar Suggestions

• •  Angelonia Serena

  •  Cora series Vinca

  •  Firebush

  •  New Gold Lantana

  •  NuMex Twilight Ornamental Pepper

  •  Victoria Perennial Phlox

• Spring Vegetable Suggestions

• •  Green beans

  •  Green or red peppers

  •  Onion varieties

  •  Tomatoes

  •  Yellow squash

• 2014 FALL MASTER GARDENER TRAINING CLASS

• •  Every Thursday 1-5 p.m. Aug. 7 to Nov. 20

  •  Applications available at vcmga.org or by calling 361-575-4581.

  •  Registration deadline is July 17.

You would think I were the owner of a manor the way I survey my yard – planning, scanning and rearranging my plants. With my children grown, my plants have become my new “babies,” and I treat them as such. When the weather warms, I find it’s very hard for me to restrain myself and not buy everything off the shelf. Yes, I have a cold, calculated plan of what will look good and what will work, but the impulsive me wants everything now.

The first-time gardener needs to remember that an attractive garden doesn’t happen overnight. There are many things you could do to have a lovely garden if you continue your work throughout the year. These tips are for the spring time of the year with summer not actually on the calendar until later next month.

Flower beds

Consult professional advice

When I am making choices for my garden, one of the items I consult is one of the various publications developed by Texas AM AgriLife, which lists the “Texas Superstars.” Plants that receive the designation of a Texas Superstar have been extensively tested at several locations in Texas by AgriLife Research and Extension personnel to determine their suitability for the harsh Texas environment. Some of the choices, among others, are cuphea, fall aster or firebush. Also consulting with the local nurseries will give you information to help in your yard.

Deadhead to extend blooming life

My flowers by now have been long established, and so it is the time to deadhead flowers to encourage and enhance better growth in the plant. If you don’t deadhead the flower, the plant will be tricked into thinking it still has a bloom and will not bloom another.

I move about my garden weekly and deadhead (remove spent blooms) to produce a bounty of flowers. As we move into the hotter months, take a close look at the flowers you are growing. Some plants, for example, like pansies and snapdragons, don’t tolerate the heat well and will need to be replaced with flowers that do tolerate the heat – such as lantana or perennial phlox.

Vegetable garden

I planted my spring vegetable garden, according to the schedule I review at the Texas AgriLife website.

Feeding and thinning

Now it is May, and a suggested feeding should be done once a month just like for the flowers. Adequate feeding promotes healthy and tasty vegetables. Some of my vegetables need thinning such as my green bean plants. The purpose of thinning the existing plants is so the ones left behind have enough sunlight and nutrients as well as room to grow.

Amendments and mulching

I add nutrients to the soil before planting and continue doing so throughout the season. Mulching is also a necessity when gardening. Whether a gardener uses an organic mulch such as dried leaves or manufactured mulch, it helps the soil retain the moisture, keeps the weeds at a minimum and also encourages the development of the organisms living in the soil promoting better plant development

Pests

Keep a vigilant eye for any pests that can stress your plants. If I find an insect on my plants, I will first research to identify if it is beneficial or detrimental to the plant. Then I treat as needed.

Tool maintenance

I have learned from Master Gardener Lupe Cook how to properly take care of garden tools after spending time in the greenhouse at Victoria Educational Gardens. After working in the garden whether you are trimming, transplanting or snipping plants for propagation, take proper care of your tools.

First, wash your tools in warm, soapy water and then dry them. Next, spray your scissors with a solution of 10 percent bleach. This hopefully will prevent the spread of diseases to other areas of your garden. Also, spray the hinges of tools with a lubricant to prevent rusting.

Care for the gardener

Maintain your own health by using lots of sunscreen and drinking plenty of water. I wear a hat and sunglasses to add further protection. Working in your garden in the cool of the morning or the shade of the evening is also beneficial to your health.

The gardener that I am, I make note of the things I would like to change for the following year: where I would like to add more color or more texture from the leaves to go here or there.

And last of all, my suggestion to you is to just take time to stroll through your garden and enjoy the rewards from the hard work you have put forth.

The Gardeners’ Dirt is written by members of the Victoria County Master Gardener Association, an educational outreach of Texas AgriLife Extension – Victoria County. Mail your questions in care of the Advocate, P.O. Box 1518, Victoria, TX 77901 or vcmga@vicad.com.

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Win a $1,000 Extreme Garden Makeover

It’s time for the 5th Annual McDade’s $1,000 Extreme Garden Makeover Drawing.  Transform your landscape into a garden paradise.  One lucky McDade’s customer will win the $1,000 professionally installed garden makeover. 

For every $20 purchased now through June 30th, your name is placed into the Makeover drawing.  A $40 purchase receives 2 entries and so on – there’s no limit to the number of entries!

$1,000 Prize includes:

$500 Shopping Spree at McDade’s Nursery

$250 Professional Landscape Installation

$250 Nature’s Guide Organic Products

Previous winners were all local to Cedar Creek Lake – Denise Bradley 2013,Toni Niles 2012, Joanie Bechard  2011 and Dave Davis 2010.  For full contest details see store or click here to visit our website. The Makeover is sponsored by Nature’s Guide.

The winner will be announced at the close of business June 30th.

 

June Gardening Tips  

If you fertilized your lawn back in late February or early March, it’s now time to give it a second feeding.  Horticultural experts agree a spring, summer and fall fertilization schedule is the best and most effective treatment for lawns. 

Applying now, gives your grass the nutrients it requires to withstand the higher temperatures we’ll see in July and August.  We highly recommend a fertilizer with a 16-4-12 formulation. 

Likewise, applying a pre-emergent on your lawn in June will help prevent unwanted weeds, especially those annoying grassburrs (sandburs).  A pre-emergent prevents weed seeds from germinating.  Corn gluten acts as an effective organic pre-emergent without harm to animals or children.

Remember to move the cutting height of your lawn mower up a notch.  Having a taller, thicker lawn will require less watering and will keep the grass looking greener.  You also don’t have to mow as often!

During June, we see a dramatic increase in the number of pests in the garden along with different types of fungus.  Be on the lookout for insect damage that can quickly destroy vegetable and flower beds.  Act quickly by using an approved insecticide to prevent spread and further damage.  Fungus can show up in your lawn (especially St. Augustine), on shrubs (like roses), fruit trees and in the vegetable garden. 

For gardeners interested in using organic products, neem oil and diatomaceous earth are effective and safe ways to treat insects on vegetables, fruits and berries.  Beneficial nematodes kill in-ground grubs and fire ants and Nolo Bait will control grasshoppers.  (We are already starting to see young grasshopper around the lake.)

Help protect plants and conserve water by applying a fresh layer of mulch to your flower and vegetable beds.  Mulch keeps the soil temperature cooler, keeps out weeds and retains water below the soil line.  Cedar and cypress mulch are especially effective as it repels insects.

 

Allan Haschick Shares Tips on Maintaining a Succulent Garden With Little to No Hassle

Does the thought of spending time in the garden leave you feeling a bit ‘meh’? Does the absence of green fingers leave you with a fear of gardening? Don’t worry! Allan Haschick has some advice for you.

“These days, gardens can be high-style and low-maintenance at the same time. Indigenous plants, cactii and succulents require very little care and attention yet provide year-round foliage and colour for the modern garden,” writes the author of Coastal Gardening in South Africa.

Read his simple tips for foolproof gardening, as shared on Home-Dzine:

Succulents, with their funky shapes, textures, colours and eye-catching forms, have made a striking comeback, minus their 1960s-style rockeries though. Their resurgence in popularity is probably due to a number of factors:
They are slow growing and need minimal care and watering (they are extremely water wise plants), so there is no need for excessive maintenance in today’s fast-paced world.

Most succulent’s clean lines, striking forms and dramatic silhouettes fit into today’s modern and simple styles of homes and décor.

• Complete article: Home-Dzine

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• Coastal Gardening in South Africa by Allan Haschick
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  EAN: 9781432301675
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Cats: Lifestyle, Nature, Non-fiction, South Africa
Tags: Allan Haschick, Cactii, Coastal Gardening in South Africa, English, Foilage, Foolproof Gardens, Home-Dzine, Indigenous Plants, Lifestyle, Modern Gardens, Nature, Non-fiction, South Africa, Struik Lifestyle, Succulents
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