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Alan Titchmarsh’s tips for growing ornamental grasses in winter

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Many gardeners chop back the plants in their beds and borders as soon as they start to look tatty in October or November, but there is much to be gained from leaving the top growth alone until now – birds will take what sustenance they can from seed heads and will enjoy the protection from the weather that the dry foliage provides.

Insects, which the birds will enjoy feasting on when food supplies are short, will also find shelter in the foliage that would be absent were a tidy gardener to shear it to the ground in autumn. This is especially true of ornamental grasses, which are almost as decorative when their leaves and stems have turned to straw, particularly when they are rimed with frost. 

But the time has come when any remaining herbaceous perennial foliage, and even the ornamental grasses, need to be attended to, simply to make way for new growth which will start pushing through the earth over the next few weeks once the weather begins to warm up.

I love ornamental grasses. They act as glue in my beds and borders, linking disparate groups of plants whose flower colour, if they were positioned side by side, would make for an unwelcome combination.

But my best use of them is in a narrow border at the top of a brick wall. The strip of earth is barely 18in wide, but the grasses, planted side by side, make a feathery ribbon that lasts right the way through the winter, squirting over the wall like a fountain.

At this time of year I take the shears to all of them, except those that are clearly evergreen and still showing signs of life. These can be divided up in a few weeks’ time and planted out again to give them room to grow more lavishly.

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Garden Tips: Learn to properly support tomato plants

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For the past several years, I have been trying tomato cages for supporting my tomatoes, but these efforts have usually ended in failure. Last year, windy weather caused all my cages and plants to blow over. Since I am not an expert on staking tomatoes, I have been researching where I went wrong.

Tomato plants are a vine. When not provided with some type of support structure, they will grow along the ground. If left to sprawl like this, an indeterminate tomato variety can take up as much as 16 square feet of area. That’s a lot of space for just one tomato plant. Plus, many of the fruit that develop touch the ground, increasing the potential of fruit rot.

Maximize garden space and minimize fruit rot by providing vines with support and growing them upright. Before discussing caging, staking and trellising, let me explain the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes.

Determinate tomatoes are varieties with bushier, more restrained growth. Vines are shorter, growing from 3 to 4 feet in length. The main vines develop numerous branches, which stop growing when the plants begin to flower. With the flowers and fruit developing at the same time, commercial tomato growers favor determinant tomatoes for processing. The varieties, Celebrity, Oregon Spring, Bush Early Girl and Rutgers, are popular determinate garden tomato varieties. Many early season tomatoes are determinate varieties.

Indeterminate tomatoes are varieties with vines that keep growing until frost kills them. Their vines can grow from 6 to 12 feet or longer. They flower and fruit during a period of two months or more. While indeterminate varieties typically develop mature fruit later in the season, they tend to produce more tomatoes during the entire season. Many of the heirloom varieties have an indeterminate growth habit.

So where did I go wrong? I used tomato cages, the 3- to 4-inch types, commonly sold to gardeners. These cages will work fairly well for caging determinant tomatoes.

The indeterminate tomato varieties that I have been growing are too big for these short cages. They require taller, more substantial support in the form of a wire cage, sturdy trellis or strong stake, especially when living in a region that can experience strong summer winds.

Indeterminate tomatoes can be “caged” by constructing a 2-inch diameter cylinder cage with 5-inch hog wire, or use a heavy gauge wire cattle fencing panel to make a square cage with 18-inch-wide sides. The cage must be anchored to the ground, especially in windy areas, such as placing a length of rebar inside the cage and pounding it a foot or more into the ground. Place cages 3 to 4 feet apart in the garden.

Consider making your own cages like these for growing indeterminate tomatoes. Caged tomatoes are unpruned (less work) and tend to yield more fruit per vine than staked tomatoes, but the fruit is smaller. Next week, I will finish up this “Tomatoes” series with information on staking and trellising tomatoes.

— Marianne C. Ophardt is a horticulturist for Washington State University Benton County Extension.

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This week’s gardening tips: lettuce, fruit trees and veggie planting edition – The Times

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Hearths worthy of centerpiece status, even when they’re not ablaze. … Read the story»

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Gardening Tips For Raised Beds

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Love gardening but don’t have the right place to indulge in your favourite hobby? Living in urban flats can actually ruin your love for gardening as you just can’t do anything. If you live in high rise apartments, which do not have a patio, then you are all the more disappointed.

But, with modern urban gardening tips, you can take care of this problem as well. You just need to get an urban bed ready to begin gardening. You can now plant small plants along your window sill or outside your home in the space provided.

Raised bed gardening is something that’s absolutely new and urban. It’s a classy way of growing plants like cucumber within your home space. If you have a garden that has dampened soil or bad soil, raised bed gardening is your way of growing what you want. It’s just a large container that gives out a garden like look and feel. Gardening in them is easy. Here are some tips that will aid you in gardening with raised beds.

Gardening Tips For Raised Beds

Soil for Raised Beds

Did you, while investing in high quality, soil check for something called organic matter? Well, buying high quality soil is not the end of a story. It’s just the beginning of something bigger. Your quality may be plain dirt with no organic matter. So, how will that help your plant? It may just not grow properly in that case. When you are choosing soil make sure you choose something that’s light and fluffy. Such soil will help the roots grow better and stronger. After all you need to develop the roots well to make the plant better.

Revitalise Soil Annually

Another gardening tip for raised beds it to revitalise your soil: this is necessary to provide for your plants. You can opt for easy to grow plants in that soil for sometime and then chop them. This would revitalise the soil and prepare them for growing the existing plants again.

Adding Compost to the Raised Bed

Be it spring or fall, adding compost to raised bed is an important gardening tip. You can end the gardening season by adding compost. It will help you clean out the garden during winters when the plants don’t grow and prepare the soil for the coming growing season. So, always ensure you have added compost to your raised beds.

Soil Amendments

This is your way of improving soil quality by adding soil amendments to soil. What is it that you want your soil to possess or do? Accordingly add the soil amendment. Add soil amendments to increase the nutrient content in your soil, to improve its physical structure or to just improve its structure. Make sure you use good quality amendments.

Cover Crop

Whenever you plan to garden using raised beds, make sure you follow this tip to add to its benefits. You will be able to replenish the nutrient content in your soil. If you have a backyard garden, using the cover crop will be beneficial. It increases the organic content of your soil.

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Winter can make gardening more interesting

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Gardeners attack the spring with energy and enthusiasm, adding lots of color, bulbs, perennials, flowering trees and shrubs.

We wilt in the summer heat, and by fall we barely have the spirit for a pot of mums. Winter, we think, is for catalogs by the fire. It’s also when you stop working in the garden and just think about it.

Not so for Christine Killian of Annapolis and Alice Ryan of Easton. Both gardeners have made it a point to create winter interest in their gardens, if for no other reason than they want something lovely to look at from the warmth of the house.

“When I worked with a designer 28 years ago,” said Killian, who lives in an 18th-century-style farmhouse and takes her cues from Williamsburg, Va., and Old Sturbridge Village, “I made it clear I wanted 12 months of interest. I wasn’t sure what that meant, but I knew I didn’t want to look at a barren landscape.”

When Alice Ryan purchased the 80-acre Knightly estate outside Easton nine years ago, of which almost 3 acres are formal gardens, she was intimidated by the work that the previous owner had done.

“Just make it your own,” a gardening friend told her.

Part of that process has been to create a “winter garden walk,” a path for her daily constitutional through and around the formal Edwardian gardens. It is a path lined with color, texture and blooms to warm the heart of the gardener on a cold day.

Ryan sees the color of the gold thread leaf cypress, the dynamic shape of the diadora and its upright cones, the spidery winter hazel, the swollen buds of the magnolia, a huge and rare round leaf ozmanthus and berries everywhere.

“The garden is hot as blazes in the summer,” said the longtime Easton philanthropist. “It is actually wonderful in the winter.”

Nancy and Pierre Moitrier of Designs for Greener Gardens in Annapolis began working with Killian about four years ago to refine her mature garden, one much smaller than the canvas Ryan has painted.

“I wanted to look out every window and see something,” said Killian, who would give directions from the bedrooms upstairs.

“You need to have collections and repetitions that are legible in the winter,” said Nancy Moitrier.

Even when snow covers everything, the evergreens that form the bones of both the front garden and the plantings around the water fountain give both a visible structure.

So does Pierre Moitrier’s hand-hewn fence. That’s because winter interest doesn’t simply include plantings and vegetation, but extends to structures like the obelisk on which Killian’s honeysuckle grows or an aqua metal bench that is tucked into Ryan’s garden near statues of herons. Arbors and brick walkways count, too.

Adding to the scene in Killian’s garden are pots planted with evergreens and violas that sit on a porch and huge stones in her rain garden. The browning tufts atop Killian’s Annabelle hydrangeas catch the snow and look like ladies in hats.

All of these elements can distract the gardener from the dormancy of the winter garden. “And birds,” said Killian. “I wanted trees and shrubs that would attract birds in the winter.”

There can be fragrance in the winter garden, too, with sweetbox, witch hazel and winter jasmine.

Summer’s abundant foliage can obscure the peeling bark of river birch and oakleaf hydrangea or the mottled bark of crepe myrtle, as well as the red stems of red twig dogwood. Clusters of red berries on winterberry and the texture of the aptly named leather leaf viburnum along with the twisted stems of Harry Lauder’s walking stick become dramatic features in the winter garden.

Killian has retired from Xerox after 35 years and she plans to spend a lot more time in the garden. And there is plenty to do in the winter.

Winter is a good time to do structural pruning because the forms of the trees and shrubs and ill-placed branches are easy to see. It is a time to check for heaving roots and press them back into the earth so they will not dry out. When the ground is not saturated and vulnerable to the compression of a gardener’s footprints, it is a good time to cut back the seed heads, pods and foliage from last season’s perennials.

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Gardening Tips For Cherry Tomatoes

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best suited for small gardens and for busy people as it does not require too much time.

The advantage of growing cherry tomatoes is that this plant does not require a traditional garden. Experts say that cherry tomatoes can grow well in containers (pots) or even on a patio. This vegetable plant needs minimal amount of care and yields its best fruit when kept in good atmosphere.

HAVE YOU TRIED ROOT VEGETABLE PLANTING IN YOUR GARDEN?

If you are planning to grow cherry tomatoes, then you should be following some of these gardening tips. Welcome the summer season by growing these tasty cherry tomatoes in your garden.

Take a look at some of the gardening tips for cherry tomatoes:

Gardening Tips For Cherry Tomatoes

Sowing the seeds
The very first gardening tips for cherry tomatoes is to get a soiled container or a clay pot (if you do not have a traditional garden). In the container filled with soil, sow the cherry tomato seeds about 1/8 inch deep.

Placement
After sowing the cherry tomato seeds into the container, you need to place the container where it will receive ample amount of sunlight.

When the seedlings appear
This is one of the most crucial tips for growing cherry tomatoes. It is said, when the seedlings have grown to an inch or two, place the container near a table fan on low setting for 5 to 10 minutes twice in a day. The breeze from the fan stimulates the tomato plant to develop strong stems.

After 3 weeks, follow these gardening tips for cherry tomatoes;

Transplanting
Transplant the cherry tomato plants from the container to a bigger container or artificial bed 1 to 2 days after they have sprouted. When you transplant, make sure to add in a natural fertiliser. At any cost, do not forget this gardening tip for your cherry plant. When you are transplanting, make sure to not touch the roots, as disturbing them could result in a transplant shock.

Finally, water the cherry tomato plant on a regular basis. But, you need to make sure to keep the water and moisture off from the leaves as much as possible as it can lead to bacterial growth.

These are some of the most important gardening tips for cherry tomatoes. It takes around 90 days or so to see a matured cherry tomato.

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Garden journals: Reviews, tips and recommendations

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Paper

Paper-based garden journals were the way people originally tracked information about their garden or landscape, and it is still very popular. There are a number of different methods from Rolodex cards to purchased garden journals.

Three-ring binders afford gardeners the ability to remove or add notes, sections, sketches, or other paper-based materials at will; an advantage over hardbound diary systems, journal-style calendar books, or compositions books. Components, such as a manila folder for receipts, pocket folders for seed packs, or index cards for quick notes, can be added to the system. Archiving is easy and stable, compared to the other two options, and some people enjoy the thought that their garden journal could be a legacy to other family members sometime in the future.

The disadvantages of paper-based systems include time consuming searching, running out of space within the system, loss of notes or other papers, and lack of flexibility in terms of moving individual pieces of data (e.g. one plant entry) around within the system. Some gardeners report being overwhelmed by all the different pieces of paper that needs to be managed. Inserting photos into some forms of paper-based systems can also be challenging. Finally, sharing the information in a paper-based system, especially remotely, is neither quick nor easy.

Computer

Like paper-based systems, there are a number of different options from spreadsheets to dedicated gardening management software. Garden journals can be created using Excel spreadsheets and Word documents. Purchased software programs have the benefit of rapid data aggregation, increased flexibility, better reporting functions, and superior search abilities. It also allows the creator to share information rapidly and remotely.

For simplicity sake, the focus of this section will be dedicated to software packages for garden management. User-created electronic garden journals (using spreadsheets, Word documents, etc.) would be similar to paper journals.

As with the paper-based system, there are a number of drawbacks to the software model. First, the software is tied to the developer. If the developer stops supporting the software, goes out of business, or stops upgrading the software, there is no recourse. All the years of data you have put into the system may be jeopardized, especially if there is no way to export the data. In addition, the software is molded to the developer’s way of thinking and gardening. It is unlikely that any software package will have all the components that you want and in most cases you will be unable to change this. Software garden journals also require hardware, so they are more limited and less mobile than paper-based journals. Data entry can be time consuming depending on the interface and the user’s typing skills. Finally, archiving and data corruption are significantly larger and more difficult issues with a software solution.

Some software garden journals currently available, include:

Garden Tracker: Offers worksheets, database, reports, to-do lists, ability to organize photos and videos, and ability to create markers/labels/seed packets. This system may be useful for someone with only basic needs. The program offers no way to pull out or compare weather data, for example, and comes with only limited plant information. There is also no built in backup function. Developer has been supporting product for 8 years and is responsive to email inquiries.

Premier Gardens by Pleasant Lake Software: Billed as software for home garden, professional landscape, and master gardener, Premier Gardens has fair number of components: plant catalog provided by a bulb company, ways to track multiple gardens, plant inventory, planning list, grids, weather, and various reports. The developer offers a 30 days free trial and is responsive to email inquiries.

The program has some quirks. For example, the Plant Catalog has an area to put in the botanical name, but no column that shows it in the grid below, so you are limited to searches by common name. Plants cannot be put into the Garden Plants sections directly; they have to be imported (“planted”) from the Plant Catalog.

The Garden Plants section offers common name, cultivar, primary and secondary color, pattern, flower date, information on purchasing, etc. There are no input areas for light, moisture, dimensions, soil type, pH, botanical name, etc. unless you use the comments area, which does not appear to be searchable. The program does have a Planning section for tracking plants you may want to acquire and a Transplant tracking function.

Online

A new form of tracking gardening information is to store it online, either on a dedicated site or via a blog. Online gardening journals enjoy many of the same benefits as the software option: rapid data aggregation, increased flexibility, ease of sharing with others, and superior search abilities. Archiving is still an issue, but there is less of a problem with data corruption.

The biggest drawback with the online gardening journals is that your information is on someone else’s server. If they decided to discontinue the site, your information could be lost as well. Access can be a problem if you are not at a computer or if your online connection goes down. In addition, sharing is different in this environment; instead of sending the information itself, users typically send the URL of their blog or online data. If at a future time you do not want people to have access to this data, or if you only want them to access to some of it, things become more difficult.

Example of a dedicated online gardening journal: Green Thumb Journal.

More tips

■ You may find it helpful to divide your garden journal into sections. As with all the other choices you’ll make regarding your journal, your choice of sections depends on how much information you plan to keep. Think about the gardening information you currently keep, and why you might consider a change. Then consider how to achieve this. You can record as much or as little as you want, in your garden journal. Just make sure it’s a fun activity, rather than a chore. A pdf garden journal may be found at Garden Journal-Homestead Harvestsite (wayzata-homestead-harvest.com/GardenJournal.pdf‎).

■ Some suggestions for the kinds of information you may want to include are:

Garden calendar; budget and spending ecords; to-do lists; garden maps; plant profile; soil preparation and maintenance; seed started indoors; planting dates both direct seeding and transplanting; plant propagation, cuttings and division; fertilizing and side dressing schedules, weed control, pest control, disease control, wildlife sightings such as animals, birds and insects; daily/weekly/monthly observations; harvest reports (amount harvested, disbursement of harvest and seeds saved); reflections and reminders for next year; wish lists for seeds, plants and tools; references, clippings and online articles.

■ Also, to create a garden map, begin with a rough, hand-drawn garden plan of your yard. If you have a large yard, it is easier to break it down into sections. Transfer individual beds on your main plan to separate drawings on graph paper; the beds can be measured if you desire accuracy. Map the plants either individually or by groups. If you plan to keep records on each plant or type of plant, create a separate page for each plant. An alternate method is to use a spreadsheet to assemble the data with columns for botanical name, common name, date planted, source (purchased or propagated), mature size, garden location, leaf and bloom color and any other information you may want. Take pictures of your garden and of the individual plants. Record your activities.

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Plants vs. Zombies Garden Warfare Multiplayer Tips

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䥮捬畤敳睮敤⁄䱃⤢⁴楴汥㴢䅣桩敶敭敮琠䍯浰汥瑩潮⁐敲捥湴慧攺‱〰⸰〥
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瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㔼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐲㐶㘹㘢㹔桥潮来獴⁧慰⁢整睥敮⁡捨楥癥浥湴猠楮⁴桥⁳慭攠条浥㼠††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㘼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〲ㄯ歩湧摯洭捯浥ⵤ敬楶敲慮捥ⵤ敶ⵤ楡特⹨瑭∾䭩湧摯洠䍯浥㨠䑥汩癥牡湣攠䑥瘠䑩慲礼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㜼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〲㌯灬慮瑳⵶猭穯浢楥猭条牤敮⵷慲晡牥⵭畬瑩灬慹敲⵴楰献桴洢㹐污湴猠癳⸠婯浢楥猠䝡牤敮⁗慲晡牥⁍畬瑩灬慹敲⁔楰猼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㠼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㌳㔹㐶㘢㹔潭戠剡楤敲⁗慬歴桲潵杨⁄楳捵獳楯渠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㤼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〰㈯条浥猭睩瑨ⵧ潬搭瑩瑬敳ⵦ潲ⵦ敢牵慲礭牥癥慬敤⹨瑭∾䝡浥猠坩瑨⁇潬搠呩瑬敳⁦潲⁆敢牵慲礠剥癥慬敤㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㈰㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈳㐱㐴∾剥癩敷礠捡獥⁰汥慳攠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爠捬慳猽≭潲攢㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢物杨琢⁣潬獰慮㴢㈢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽢潡牤楮摥砮慳灸∾浯牥‮⸮㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ††㰯瑡扬放ഊ††㱴慢汥⁣污獳㴢桯瑴桲敡摬楳琢⁩搽≴扬䡯瑔桲敡摳乥睳∠獴祬攽≤楳灬慹㩮潮攢㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㘷㔲∾䙡癯畲楴攠条浩湧⁣潮獯汥映慬氠瑩浥㼠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㈼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〲㔯湥眭条浥⵰慧攭癩敷猭慮搭晩汴敲献桴洢㹎敷⁇慭攠偡来⁖楥睳⁡湤⁆楬瑥牳㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㌼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〲〯牥瑡楬⵲敬敡獥猭睥敫ⵯ昭晥扲畡特ⴳ牤ⴲ〱㐮桴洢㹒整慩氠剥汥慳敳㨠坥敫映䙥扲畡特″牤Ⱐ㈰ㄴ㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㐼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〱㠯瑨攭睯汦ⵡ浯湧⵵猭数楳潤攭㈭摡瑥搮桴洢㹔桥⁗潬映䅭潮朠啳⁅灩獯摥′⁄慴敤㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㔼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〱㘯摡牴栭浡畬ⵣ潭敳⵴漭摡牫⵳潵汳⵩椮桴洢㹄慲瑨⁍慵氠䍯浥猠呯⁄慲欠卯畬猠䥉㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㘼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〱㤯瑨攭睡汫楮札摥慤⵳敡獯渭㈭数楳潤攭㈭瑥慳敲⵩浡来⹨瑭∾周攠坡汫楮朠䑥慤⁓敡獯渠㈠䕰楳潤攠㈠呥慳敲⁉浡来㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㜼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〱㜯獯畴栭灡牫⵴桥⵳瑩捫ⵯ昭瑲畴栭瑶⵳灯琭⵴牡楬敲献桴洢㹓潵瑨⁐慲欺⁔桥⁓瑩捫映呲畴栠呖⁓灯琠♡浰㬠呲慩汥牳㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㠼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〱〯瑡⵴潰ⵦ楶攭桥慤来慲⹨瑭∾呁⁔潰⁆楶攺⁈敡摧敡爼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸹㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㔹㤰⽷敬捯浥⵴漭瑨攭瑡⵷楮瑥爭潬祭灩捳⹨瑭∾坥汣潭攠瑯⁴桥⁔䄠坩湴敲⁏汹浰楣猼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱〼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〲ㄯ歩湧摯洭捯浥ⵤ敬楶敲慮捥ⵤ敶ⵤ楡特⹨瑭∾䭩湧摯洠䍯浥㨠䑥汩癥牡湣攠䑥瘠䑩慲礼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱ㄼ⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〲㌯灬慮瑳⵶猭穯浢楥猭条牤敮⵷慲晡牥⵭畬瑩灬慹敲⵴楰献桴洢㹐污湴猠癳⸠婯浢楥猠䝡牤敮⁗慲晡牥⁍畬瑩灬慹敲⁔楰猼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㈼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〲㘯硢氭捯湴敮琭牯畮摵瀭晥扲畡特ⴴ瑨ⴲ〱㐮桴洢㹘䉌⁃潮瑥湴⁒潵湤異㨠䙥扲畡特‴瑨Ⱐ㈰ㄴ㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄳ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㘰ㄱ⽴敡洭捲潳獷潲搭獥牶敲猭瑯ⵣ汯獥⹨瑭∾呥慭⁃牯獳睯牤⁓敲癥牳⁴漠䍬潳攼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㐼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄶ〰㈯条浥猭睩瑨ⵧ潬搭瑩瑬敳ⵦ潲ⵦ敢牵慲礭牥癥慬敤⹨瑭∾䝡浥猠坩瑨⁇潬搠呩瑬敳⁦潲⁆敢牵慲礠剥癥慬敤㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄵ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㔹㔴⽴愭条浩湧⵳瑡瑳ⴭ橡湵慲礭㈰瑨⵴漭㈶瑨ⴲ〱㐮桴洢㹔䄠䝡浩湧⁓瑡瑳‭⁊慮畡特′ぴ栠瑯′㙴栠㈰ㄴ㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄶ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㘰〷⽰慣浡渭浵獥畭ⵤ慴敤⹨瑭∾偁䌭䵁丠䵵獥畭⁄慴敤㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄷ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㘰〶⽥慳瑥爭敧杳瑨攭浩獡摶敮瑵牥猭潦⵰戭睩湴敲扯瑴潭⹨瑭∾䕡獴敲⁅杧猺周攠䵩獡摶敮瑵牥猠潦⁐⹂⸠坩湴敲扯瑴潭㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄸ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㔹㤵⽡捨楥癥浥湴ⵯ昭瑨攭睥敫ⵦ潲⵪慮畡特ⴳㅳ琮桴洢㹁捨楥癥浥湴映瑨攠坥敫⁦潲⁊慮畡特″ㅳ琼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㤼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄵ㤶㤯慣桩敶敭敮琭灲敶楥眭獰潴汩杨琭ⵦ慢汥ⵡ湮楶敲獡特⹨瑭∾䅣桩敶敭敮琠偲敶楥眠印潴汩杨琺†䙡扬攠䅮湩癥牳慲礼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸲〼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽮ㄵ㤵〯浩捲潳潦琭獴畤楯猭慣煵楲敳ⵧ敡牳⵲楧桴献桴洢㹍楣牯獯晴⁓瑵摩潳⁁捱畩牥猠䝥慲猠剩杨瑳㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爠捬慳猽≭潲攢㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢物杨琢⁣潬獰慮㴢㈢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽢潡牤楮摥砮慳灸∾浯牥‮⸮㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ††㰯瑡扬放ഊ††㱴慢汥⁣污獳㴢桯瑴桲敡摬楳琢⁩搽≴扬䡯瑔桲敡摳䝡浩湧∠獴祬攽≤楳灬慹㩮潮攢㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㘰㈲⽸扬⵳慬攭牯畮摵瀭晥扲畡特ⴴ瑨ⴲ〱㐮桴洢㹘䉌⁓慬攠副畮摵瀺⁆敢牵慲礠㑴栬′〱㐼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸲㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯渱㘰㈴⽵猭摥慬⵲潵湤異ⵦ潲ⵦ敢牵慲礭㑴栭㈰ㄴ⹨瑭∾啓⁄敡氠副畮摵瀠景爠䙥扲畡特‴瑨Ⱐ㈰ㄴ㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㌼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽ㄸ㤱㘳㘢㹌楳琠佦⁆牥攠䍯湴敮琠⡇慭敳Ⱐ䅰灥牡氬⁥捴⤠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸴㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㘶㤶∾周攠汯湧敳琠条瀠扥瑷敥渠慣桩敶敭敮瑳⁩渠瑨攠獡浥⁧慭政†††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㔼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐲㌷ㄱ㐢㹁湹潮攠䕬獥⁔業攠偬慹敤⁓瑵捫㼠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸶㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㐳〱∾䍡灲愠䑥浯渠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㜼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐱㄰㠷㈢㹗桡琠条浥猠睯畬搠祯甠汩步⁴漠獥攠潮⁴桥⁏湥㼠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸸㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㠹㤲∾扥捯浩湧⁡⁶慭灩牥†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㤼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐲㐹㌸ㄢ㹄潵扬攠摩灰楮朠慣桩敶敭敮瑳㼠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱〼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽ㄲ㤰ㄵ∾周攠呲慤楮朠周牥慤†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄱ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈲〵㠹∾䙡扬攠䅮湩癥牳慲礠慣桩敶敭敮瑳⁡牥潷渠瑨攠獩瑥†††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄲ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈳㈶㜰∾䱩獴⁏映䝡浥猠坩瑨⁕湯扴慩湡扬攠䅣桩敶敭敮瑳††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄳ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㈷㌱∾䍡湮潴⁣牥慴攠愠条浥⁳敳獩潮⁦潲⁴桩猠条浥⸠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄴ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴳㐰㈹〹∾偲漠乥敤敤‭⁆慢汥⁉䤠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄵ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㜷ㄶ∾䅣桩敶敭敮琠䡥汰⸠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄶ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈵〶㔰∾䍯湴牯汳††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄷ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈵〷ㄷ∾佦晩捩慬⁗潲汤映呡湫猠睥扳楴攠慮搠硢潸⁶敲獩潮††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄸ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㤸㤱∾䍬潳敤⁓敲癥爠兵敳瑩潮猠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄹ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈵〲〳∾坨慴❳⁥慳楥爯晡獴敲⁴漠㄰〥㼠䝔䄠嘬爠剥搠䑥慤㼠†††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㈰㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈵〲ㄱ∾䱯潫楮朠景爠桥汰⁷楴栠癥牳畳⁡捨楥癥浥湴献†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爠捬慳猽≭潲攢㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢物杨琢⁣潬獰慮㴢㈢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽢潡牤楮摥砮慳灸∾浯牥‮⸮㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ††㰯瑡扬放ഊ††㱴慢汥⁣污獳㴢桯瑴桲敡摬楳琢⁩搽≴扬䡯瑔桲敡摳卩瑥∠獴祬攽≤楳灬慹㩮潮攢㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㠰㌱∾䥮癥獴楧慴楯渠瑥慭⁣慮⁹潵⁰汥慳攠捨慮来礠慣桩敶敭敮瑳††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㈼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㌸㤹㔹∾䵡汦畮捴楯湩湧⁓捡湮敲猠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㌼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㌳㔹㐶㘢㹔潭戠剡楤敲⁗慬歴桲潵杨⁄楳捵獳楯渠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸴㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈳㐱㐴∾剥癩敷礠捡獥⁰汥慳攠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㔼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐲㐷ㄳ〢㹔䄠剡瑩漠楳獵攠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸶㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴳㜱㘸㐰∾䑡牫⁗慬歴桲潵杨⁄楳捵獳楯渠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㜼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽ㄶ〳㌵㔢㹙潵爠浯獴⁷慮瑥搠湥眠晥慴畲政†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸸㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴㜳㈱∾兵敳瑩潮⁡扯畴⁍礠䝯慬猯䍯浰汥瑥搠䝡浥猠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㤼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐲㐶㠷㜢㹛䙩硥摝⁍楬敳瑯湥猠䝲慰栠浥獳敤⁵瀠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱〼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐲㐸㔰〢㹍敳獡来猠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱ㄼ⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㐱㘳㌲ㄢ㹃慬氠潦⁄畴示⁇桯獴猠⡘扯砠佮攩⁗慬歴桲潵杨⁄楳捵獳楯渠††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㈼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽ㄶ㤴㘷㐢㹔慬敳映噥獰敲楡⁅唠噥爠坡汫瑨牯畧栠䑩獣畳獩潮††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㌼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㜱㈶㔷∾䍯畮瑹⁌敡摥牢潡牤猠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄴ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴲㄰㘢㹗桥牥⁤楤⁹潵⁨敡爠慢潵琠呲略䅣桩敶敭敮瑳㼠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㔼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㌶㜹㐶∾噯汵湴敥爠瑯⁷物瑥⁡⁷慬歴桲潵杨††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄶ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈵〶㘳∾孌潧来摝⁎敷⁇牯異楮朠噩敷⽍整桯搠潮⁇慭攠偡来†††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄷ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴲㠲㈹㘵∾噩敷⁓瑥慭⁡湤⁐华⁡捨楥癥浥湴猯瑲潰桩敳㼠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄸ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴳〰㘷ㄲ∾䱅䝏⁂慴浡渠㈺⁄䌠卵灥爠䡥牯敳⁗慬歴桲潵杨⁄楳捵獳楯渠†††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾ㄹ㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈳㠰㌹∾坯牬搠佦⁔慮歳‭⁇慭攠䥮景⁳畢浩獳楯湳†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㈰㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴴㈴ㄷ㜷∾孆楸敤崠呁⁗楮瑥爠佬祭灩挠䕶敮琠䍯畮瑤潷湳†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爠捬慳猽≭潲攢㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢物杨琢⁣潬獰慮㴢㈢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽢潡牤楮摥砮慳灸∾浯牥‮⸮㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ††㰯瑡扬放ഊ††㱴慢汥⁣污獳㴢桯瑴桲敡摬楳琢⁩搽≴扬䡯瑔桲敡摳佔∠獴祬攽≤楳灬慹㩮潮攢㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴲㤷㜸∾睨慴猠瑨攠污獴⁡捨楥癥浥湴⁹潵扴慩湥搠祥獴敲摡礿†††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㈼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽ㄵ㘱㔳㜢㹗潲搠䅳獯捩慴楯渠䝡浥℠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸳㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴲㘶㤵㘳∾䅬灨慢整⁇慭攠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㐼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㠹〲∾奯畲慴敳琠条浥⁰畲捨慳敳⸠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㔼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㈷㈳㈳㈢㹈潷汤⁡牥⁹潵㼠†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸶㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴳㈹ㄹ㘹∾乡浥⁴桡琠条浥⸠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㜼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㄰ㄲ〶㔢㹔桩猠潲⁔桡琠㼠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸸㰯瑤㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢条浥∾ഊ†††††㱡⁨牥昽∯景牵洯癩敷瑨牥慤⹡獰砿瑨牥慤楤㴲㜱㤲∾剡瑥⁴桥慳琠浯癩攠祯甠獡眠††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††㰯愾ഊ††††㰯瑤㸍ਠ††‼⽴爾ഊ†††㱴爾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≰潳∾㤼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㈹㐸㌢㹙潵爠污獴⁃潭灬整敤‱〰┠䅲捡摥⁧慭攡†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱〼⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢⽦潲畭⽶楥睴桲敡搮慳灸㽴桲敡摩搽㈰㌶〵㌢㹙敳爠乯†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††‼⽡㸍ਠ†††‼⽴搾ഊ†††㰯瑲㸍ਠ††‼瑲㸍ਠ†††‼瑤⁣污獳㴢灯猢㸱ㄼ⽴搾ഊ††††㱴搠捬慳猽≧慭攢㸍ਠ††††‼愠桲敦㴢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⡴祰敯昨昳㤶㠸㔩㴽❵湤敦楮敤✠籼⁦㌹㘸㠵‾‰⤠⤠笍੩昨瑹灥潦⡧湭彯牤⤽㴧畮摥晩湥搧⤠杮浟潲搽䵡瑨⹲慮摯洨⤪㄰〰〰〰〰〰〰〰〻⁩昨瑹灥潦⡧湭彴楬攩‽㴠❵湤敦楮敤✩⁧湭彴楬攽ㄻഊ摯捵浥湴⹷物瑥⠧㱳捲✫❩灴⁳牣㴢桴瑰㨯⽮㐴〳慤⹤潵扬散汩捫⹮整⽡摪⽧渮瑲略慣桩敶敭敮瑳⹣潭⽲潳㭳散琽牯猻浴晉湬楮攽瑲略㭳稽㄰〰砱〰〻瑩汥㴧⬨杮浟瑩汥⬫⤫✻潲搽✫杮浟潲搫✿∠瑹灥㴢瑥硴⽪慶慳捲楰琢㸼⽳捲✫❩灴㸧⤻ഊ絥汳敻ഊ⼯楮獥牴⁤敦慵汴⁳瑡瑩挠業慧攠桥牥⁡猠摥晡畬琠慤ഊ納਼⽳捲楰琾ഊ㰡ⴭ⁅乄⁁䐠呁䜠ⴭ㸍਍ਉ㰯扯摹㸍਼⽨瑭氾

Filed Under: garden tips

Tips from Toby: Taking care of those Honey-dos

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KANSAS CITY, Mo. – If you want to have the best lawn on the block, February is a key month. February is the month that we kick start our lawns.

The first step is to mow off that dead layer of grass on top of your lawns. Lower your mower height as low as it will go without scalping your lawn. Be sure to bag all the clippings when you mow.

This simple step of mowing your lawn short in February will get your entire lawn growing strong.

This top layer of dead grass is blocking the sun to the new grass growing below.

You will be amazed at how much green is already underneath the dead layer.

Of course if there is snow or ice on the ground or the lawn is really wet.

You will just have to wait until the conditions are better and that can be late February or early march depending on the weather, but get it done as soon as you can.

Now is the time to check for those little weeds that are already popping up.

Mix up a pump sprayer with Gordon’s Speed Zone concentrate, and spreader sticker per instructions with water and spray those small weeds and dandelions now so they don’t become big weeds this Spring.

With this cold snap not going away for a while, here’s a great February tip that’s so easy and will make a big difference.

Add Tang Instant Drink Mix to your washing machine’s soap dispenser and run the washing machine empty with hot water.

This will clean out your machine, keep it fresh and also clean the pipes. The acid in tang helps make for a clean washer and you should do this once a month. 

For your dishwasher add two cups of white vinegar to the bottom of your machine and run an empty load, then add two cups of bleach and run another empty cycle.

This will sanitize and clean out your dishwasher for a quick easy honey do once per month.

Copyright 2014 Scripps Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.

Filed Under: garden tips

Garden Tips: Gardeners have taste for heirloom tomatoes

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New garden catalogs are arriving daily, telling me that it is time to start planning this year’s garden. Spring must be around the corner!

Of course tomatoes are at the top on my list of vegetables to grow. There is nothing like a homegrown tomato fresh from the garden. If you plan to grow your own veggie transplants, now is when you ought to be ordering seeds and getting ready to plant. Tomato seeds should be planted about six weeks before the anticipated date of planting outdoors.

When perusing seed catalogs, notice modern hybrid varieties, such as Burpee’s Better Boy or Big Boy, are not as popular as they once were. Today’s gardeners are clamoring for heirloom varieties because of their full flavor and attractive fruit of various colors and shapes. Specialty mail-order seed companies and even mainstream companies are offering an expanding list of heirloom tomatoes.

Modern hybrid tomato varieties were bred primarily for commercial field production. Breeders sought firm, uniform, deep red fruit and resistance to soil pathogens. They did not focus on flavor. As a result, some of the flavor we desire in a fresh tomato was lost during their development.

Heirloom tomatoes are older varieties that have been passed from one generation to another. Unlike modern hybrid tomatoes, heirlooms are open pollinated. The prime reason for the “growing” interest in heirlooms is their flavor. Many folks feel that heirlooms have more of the robust tomato taste.

Specialty mail-order seed companies that specialize in tomatoes are a good place to look for tomato varieties to grow. Totally Tomatoes (totallytomato.com) is offering a new series of tomatoes called the “Wild Boar Series” that are new introductions from a small organic farmer and breeder. The series is the result of crosses the farmer made from his favorites among hundreds of heirlooms and hybrids, and selecting the resulting crosses for their extreme flavor, interesting appearance and coloring.

Tomato Growers Supply (tomatogrowers.com) offers more than 500 varieties of heirloom and hybrid tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. Tomato Fest (tomatofest.com) only offers organically grown heirloom tomatoes with a list of a 600 varieties including paste, dwarf, determinant, heart-shaped and, of course red, orange, yellow, green, striped, brown, purple and even blue varieties.

Many seed companies, even the big-name seed catalogs (like Burpee), are offering grafted tomatoes. A grafted tomato is one that has been fused together via the propagation method of grafting. This involves placing a desirable variety (scion) on top the roots of a different variety (rootstock). The scion grows into the upper part of the plant and produces fruit of the desirable variety. The rootstock grows into the root system and imparts that variety’s characteristics to the roots.

While heirlooms may have better tasting fruit, the plants lack resistance to certain soil pathogens bred into most modern hybrids. Grafted tomatoes allow tomato growers to grow tasty heirloom tomatoes on rootstock that is resistant to certain soil diseases. Many of these rootstocks also improve plant vigor and productivity.

So do not procrastinate, decide what to you want to grow and order your seed or grafted plants now.

— Marianne C. Ophardt is a horjticulturist for Washington State University Benton County Extension.

Filed Under: garden tips
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