Long Island Landscaping, Castle Landscapes builds website dedicated to give customers tips on landscaping masonry.

Dix Hills, NY (PRWEB) May 05, 2012

Castle Landscapes Inc. having been in operation for the past 25 years, has transformed dreams into reality. They have done this by skillfully and professionally combing years of experience, cost cutting consciousness, unsurpassed quality giving the customer confidence that they will receive a state of the art decorative design.

In 2012 Castle Landscapes has decided to give back to their clients for years of loyalty by designing and building a website just dedicated to landscaping masonry tips. The website goes into detail the process of what to look for when hiring a landscape design company. Here are a few excerpts from the website.

1- Make sure the contractor is fully licensed and insured in the country that the project is being done.

2-Be sure to look for reviews and references from past projects.

3-Ask for samples of what you will be getting to make sure the company is working with quality materials.

Castle Landscapes put three major sections to the new website. Masonry tips, Landscaping tips and Gardening tips. Each page was built with a frequently asked questions page so if clients have any questions Castle can answer. As a bonus Castle put a discounts page for customers that want to hire them for work. Here are the discounts.

• Free Estimates
• $550.00 off for any service $3,000.00 or more
• $125.00 off for any service of $1,000.00 or more.
• New customers only. Excludes Lawn Maintenance. Cannot be combined with any other offer.

The new website has been getting great feedback from clients and Castle has increased businesses due to this addition. Castle hired Long Island Web Design company, Benjamin Marc to design, build and brand this new website. Benjamin Marc has built and marketed Castle previous website and owner Anthony Savino had this to say about working with Castle Landscapes. “Working with Mike has been great. He does excellent work and building websites with him has been a pleasure I wish him success with his new website and we at Benjamin Marc hope we made him proud”.

Castle Landscapes new website was launched one month ago and can be found at http://www.longislandlandscapingltd.com. Castle’s services include landscaping, gardening, masonry, tree services, snow removal, pools, patios, walkways, driveways and more. Clients can feel free to visit their showroom to receive a free consultation.

Telehphone: 1 (631) 427-3793

Telephone: 2 (631) 242-1019

Fax:                 (631) 427-3792

Email: castlelandscape(at)optonline(dot)net

Mailing Address:

151 Millet Street

Dix Hills, NY 11746

For the original version on PRWeb visit: http://www.prweb.com/releases/prwebLong-Island-Landscape/Designers-Castle-Landscap/prweb9475327.htm

Learn how, why and when to prune azaleas, no matter what kind you have. Remove dead wood and damage or prune to shape the shrub.

There are many types of azaleas, but they are often divided into two major groups, deciduous and evergreen. Deciduous shrubs lose their leaves in the winter. Evergreens, of course, do not. There are many hybrids within each group. Some flower at different times of year than others. Azaleas are known for the variety of their blooms and the many colors available.

Gardening tips: How to prune azalea

The good news is that each of theses types of azalea follows the same rules of pruning as all the others. The bad news is that you will not be pruning all of them at the same time unless they are all the same kind.

It is a good idea to keep the pruning shears clean as you work. To prevent the spread of insects and diseases from one plant to the next, it is always good practice to clean the pruning shears. Dip the pruning shear blades in a solution of nine parts water and one part chlorine bleach between cuts. A convenient amount to make is 2 1/4 cups water with 1/4 cup bleach. Put it in a small pail or jar to carry with you. Alternately, you may wipe the pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts.

Cuts are made cleanly and at a 45-degree angle to the stem. This allows water to run easily off that area of the stem and lessens the chances of disease entering the new wound. Each cut should be just above the place where a branch connects with the stem.
After pruning, be sure to clean up any plant litter. Azaleas are susceptible to fungal attack. Fungus often over-winters in plant litter. Remove dead wood from the site. Also, rake up the ground beneath the shrub to remove fallen leaves.

Azaleas do not need regular much pruning. Their growth rate is slow. A limited amount of new wood is added each year. Azaleas need no routine pruning.

It is certainly fine to deadhead (remove) spent flowers to encourage new leaf growth rather than growth of seeds. Just be careful not to cut too much off as you may destroy new growth. Deadhead azaleas by cutting the stem close to the flower. Deadheading is not mandatory, but a matter of choice.

If there is damage to the shrub, that damage may be pruned out at any time. Make cuts underneath each damaged area to replace jagged, torn bark with a clean cut. Dead, but uninjured wood is best removed in mid spring. In the case of deciduous azalea, it allows time for new growth to start so that dead wood can be spotted easily.

The only other need for pruning is when the shrub lacks symmetry. If a branch has grown so that it ruins the look of the shrub, it needs to be pruned. Do this type of pruning after the bush is done flowering, whenever that may be. Simply cut the offending branch back to a point where it again fits with the shape of the shrub.

That is all it takes! Keep pruning shears clean. Deadhead if you want to. Take off damaged wood anytime. Remove dead wood in mid spring. Prune for shape after the bush is done blooming. Most of all enjoy your beautiful shrub.

Q: Some of the leaves of different shrubs in my garden are curling at the ends and turning brown. Some new growth has turned completely brown at the ends. Is there a new disease attacking shrubs?

— Bob Jackson, Winnetka

A: Considering the weather in the Chicago area this spring, the damage that you are seeing on your plants is likely from frost. The symptoms of frost damage can look similar to certain disease symptoms. Frost injury occurs when ice crystals form within the plant cells and rupture the cell walls.

The exceptionally warm weather in March pushed early growth and flowers in the Chicago region. The development of the plants was weeks ahead until a return to cooler temperatures slowed things down. Occasional freezing nights in the past few weeks, which are normal for this time of year, have damaged some plants that were in the process of leafing out early. In a more normal spring, most plants would not be as advanced in their growth and would be less likely to be affected by spring freezes.

Frost damage will occur shortly after a freeze event. It will not necessarily affect your entire garden, but the symptoms will be fairly uniform on all of a plant’s leaves and on other plants in the same location or exposure.

I have observed frost damage on spring-flowering bulb foliage, hydrangeas, hybrid roses, ferns, astilbes, hostas, butterfly bushes and boxwood at the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe. The new growth on the boxwood was curled and turning brown at the edges, but these plants will grow out and be just fine. “Annabelle” hydrangea leaves were curled at the edges and turning black.

There is not much to do about frost damage at this point, other than prune off damaged growth. The plant should leaf out again or fill in within two to three weeks. Plants that are in good health should recover without any problems.

Tim Johnson is director of horticulture for the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe (chicagobotanic.org). Send questions to: Gardening QA, Sunday, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611-4041; e-mail to sunday@tribune.com.

by Stephen Gent, Owner
McDade’s Nursery

Stephen has 14+ years of experience in horticulture as Publisher and Marketing Director for Nursery Management and Production, Greenhouse Management and Production and Garden Center magazine.

An avid gardener with a lifelong passion for plants, he enjoys sharing his knowledge and experience with customers.

This has been a great spring for gardening. In the Cedar Creek Lake area we are fortunate to have received a plentiful supply of rain along with moderate temperatures – ideal conditions for growing healthy plants.

May is the month to start replacing the cooler weather plants with varieties that like warmer temperatures. For example, verbena, petunias, purslane, pentas, vinca and zinnia can all be planted in sunny spots during the month. In shady areas, try ferns, begonias, impatiens, nicotiana, hostas and caladiums to provide an interesting mix of color and greenery.

If you want to attract birds and butterflies, plant milkweed, butterfly bush, rue, red yucca, zinnia, hibiscus, lantana, salvia, pentas and vines like trumpet, passion and honeysuckle.

Many homeowners lost part or all of their lawns last year due to the severe drought. St. Augustine, Bermuda and other warm-season turfgrasses can now be planted. Keep new grass moist until well established. If laying sod, use a root stimulator to help the grass develop a healthy root system and don’t fertilize until after the second or third mowing.

In early May, you can still plant in your vegetable garden summer crops like tomatoes, peppers, okra, corn, cucumber, eggplant, cantaloupe and watermelon. But don’t wait too long as young plants need to be well established before the summer heat hits.

Caladium bulbs are considered tropicals and are typically planted around Mother’s Day when the soil temperature is warm enough for germination. Fancy leaf caladiums enjoy the shade while strap leaf varieties will tolerate more sun.

Temperatures will start to rise in May so keep a closer check on the watering needs of your garden and patio plants. High winds especially can rob your soil of moisture. When it comes to watering we recommend the simple finger test. Place your finger in the soil, if it’s damp then leave well alone. If it’s dry, then water.
Over watering can be more of a problem than under watering. Most plants don’t like wet feet. In fact, having a drier soil allows oxygen to circulate around the root system which is beneficial to plants.

Mulching your flower and vegetable beds is the best method for keeping moisture in the ground. It also cuts down on your water bill. A layer of mulch 2″ – 3″ thick prevents evaporation, keeps the ground cooler, stops weeds from germinating and also has a pleasing look. Cedar and cypress mulches have properties that help repel annoying insects.

Join Lake Superior Master Gardeners and UW-Extension horticulture educator Jane Anklam for instruction and a demonstration on planting your spring garden.

The educational session begins at 10 a.m. Saturday at the Broadway Market Community Garden at the corner of Broadway Street and Hammond Avenue in Superior.

Topics include soil preparation, early spring weed identification, compost use and planting.

The Superior Council for the Arts maintains the Broadway Community Garden.

“Spring planting is one of the most exciting times in the gardening year. Following a few instructions will pay off when it comes to harvesting those fresh vegetables this summer,” Anklam said.

Radishes, carrots, turnips, peas and onions are planned for the demonstration garden. In addition, Master Gardeners will be available to answer your spring home gardening questions.

The Lake Superior Master Gardeners have begun the garden planting at the Solid Rock Gardens. Gardeners with questions about pests, plants, and fertilizers will find the Master Gardeners available to talk about gardening tips and frustrations 4-6 p.m. Tuesdays this summer at the corner of North Sixth Street and Weeks Avenue in Superior.

Tags:
community, money, gardens

Q: I have an old patch of daffodils. It used to bloom but doesn’t any more. What’s the matter?

A: Over the years the plants have multiplied and exhausted soil nutrients. There’s sufficient fertility for them to leaf out but not to flower.

To reinvigorate them, dig up and divide the bulbs this summer after the foliage has dried. Replant the bulbs in fertile soil. The larger bulbs should flower next spring and most of the smaller ones the year after.

Q: I pruned a grape and a few maple trees last year in late spring and they bled sap like crazy. They didn’t die or even look unhealthy a couple weeks later. Can a plant ever bleed to death from being pruned during the growing season?

A: Not if you apply a tourniquet. Seriously, even profuse bleeding of sap poses no threat to these plants. Maples, grapes and some other plants sap heavily when cut in late spring. The loss is mostly water. Eventually a callus forms over the cut and staunches the flow.Q: Can you give me any tips for deer control? They have already stripped the roses. I’ve tried the homemade sprays and they seem to work, but with all the rain we have, it seems futile. Right now I am using a commercial product that consists of dried blood in a water proof container on a stake, but would like to know any ideas you might have.

A: Fencing is the only sure-fire deer control I know. Theoretically, a deer fence should be 7 feet high. Actually, my 6-foot fence has deterred all trespass by the creatures. Would that it worked as well for the raccoons.

A fence though, is not to everyone’s aesthetic or financial liking, especially if it protects just a few plants. Waterproof blood repellent sounds worth a try. Other repellents based on putrescent eggs or bone tar oil have been used by Christmas tree growers and homeowners with varying degrees of success. Some folks even swear by bars of Irish Spring soap hung near vulnerable plants.

Q: When should I plant potatoes?

A: Right now — early May. You can gamble on an earlier planting, and in a mild year get an earlier harvest. In a spring with fluctuating temperatures though, early-planted potatoes suffer checks in growth which can result in misshapen and hollow-hearted tubers.

Waiting until May has a drawback if you buy seed potatoes just before planting. By then preferred varieties may be sold out. So buy seed potatoes in late March or April and hold them until planting time.

Q: Should I fertilize my fruit trees each spring?

A: That depends on how they’ve grown. If they’ve produced a foot or more of new growth last year, forget the fertilizer. You can tell new growth because it’s on the ends of branches and lighter in color. Fertilizing already vigorous trees results in an ecstasy of water sprouts. That vertical growth makes your trees taller but won’t set fruit.

If new growth is less than a foot, a good pruning job may stimulate normal growth next year. Or you can make a light application of 21-0-0 (ammonium sulfate) in the drip zone of the trees.

Q: How do I know when my soil is ready to plant?

A: Grab a handful of soil. Form it into a ball. Press the ball with your thumb. If it crumbles readily, your soil is ready to plant.

If the soil stubbornly refuses to crumble, it’s too wet. Working wet soil produces clods. Imagine yourself as a seed trying to germinate under a clod. So wait until the soil dries enough that you can work it into a hospitable seedbed.

From seasoned gardeners to those getting their hands dirty for the first time, there is a way to avoid that frustration that comes when the plants that you thought were so healthy and thriving suddenly bite the dust. Here are ten simple practices to put in place to avoid losing plans, time and money to disease.

1. Good sanitation: Start with a clean planting site free of debris from years past which could be harboring disease and insects that you do not want to expose your tender plants to.

2. Use high quality plants and seeds: Select plants that are healthy looking; no wilted leaves, yellow spots or soft stems.

3. Rotate the crops: Plant in different parts of the garden each year. Be sure not to rotate crops with those in the same plant family (e.g. tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower).

4. Don’t plant too early: Planting too soon can slow down growth if the soil is not warm enough. Know what growing zone you live in.

5. Use mulch: Mulch holds in moisture and helps to prevent those pesky weeds from growing.

6. Do not overcrowd the plants: Plants need room to grow and crowding them too close creates a humid condition that can cause diseases to develop.

7. Water early in the day: Do not water when the sun is most intense, as the water will just evaporate.

8. Remove diseased leaves as the plants are growing.

9. Fertilize: It will help plants thrive, but do not over fertilize.

10. Use row covers: Where possible, use them to protect plants from bugs. Row covers are porous, let sunlight in, and protect from wind damage.

This entry was posted
on Wednesday, May 2nd, 2012 at 6:59 am and is filed under Mary Ann Esposito, gardening.
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“In the garden I tend to drop my thoughts here and there.  To the flowers I whisper the secrets I keep and the hopes I breathe.  I know they are there to eavesdrop for the angels.”  ~Dodinsky, www.dodinsky.com

Spring is in motion and summer will be upon us in no time… hence, let’s add a few gardening tips and tricks to your horticulture skills!

• Natural Insecticide – add onions and garlic to a jar of water, let stand for a week, and spray plants with it.
• Rose Holder – if cutting thorny rose stems, hold onto the stem with a spring clothespin.
• Tomato Ties – cut old stockings lengthwise to make ties for tomato plants.  These are strong but will not cut into the stalk.
• Painted Flower Pots – turn a flower pot upside down over a large tin can when painting them. They can easily be turned until the paint dries.
• Vegetable Carrier – replace the bottom of a wooden box with chicken wire to place your freshly-picked vegetables in.  Spray vegetables with a hose; dirt and bugs will be washed out, without dirtying your kitchen sink.
• Preserving Flowers – spray cut flowers with hair spray to make them last longer.
• Tinting Flowers – mix food coloring in warm water and put flower stems in the solution.  Stems will absorb the color and tint the flowers.
• Removing Poison Ivy – mix a gallon of soapy water and 3 pounds of salt and spray the area.
• Rabbit Plague – use the cheapest talcum powder you can find around the base of your vegetable plants and it will rid you of rabbit and flea beetle pests.
• Sowing Seeds – use a salt shaker to sow seeds in your garden, it will spread the seeds more evenly.
• Watering Seedlings – push a drinking straw into the soil and funnel water into it to avoid disturbing new seedlings.
• Killing Weeds – pour boiling salt water on grass or weeds growing between sections of sidewalk.
• Preventing Weeds – Sprinkle salt or cheap motor oil between brinks in a walk to prevent grass and seeds from growing.
• Egg Water – Use the water from eggs that have been boiled to water plants – a good source of minerals.
• Melted Snow – Snow contains wonderful minerals for plants – during the winter bring some in, let it melt and water with it.
• Watering Plants – Use room temperature water.
• Watering While on Vacation – For extended vacations, put plants in the bathtub on thickly folded newspaper in a few inches of water. Water will be absorbed through the bottom of the pots.

An old fashion cure all… a tablespoon of castor oil chased by water will bring sick plants out of their slump!!

Have Fun Happy Gardening!!

Love God bless,

Lori