The garden can suffer and benefit from all sorts of wildlife visitors. Insects such as bees and butterflies are critical to vegetation pollination, but the caterpillars that will someday become those butterflies can do significant damage to plants in the meantime.

Plenty of other insects will also harm plants, and outside of chemical treatments, there is very little that can be done to discourage them. The easiest and most environmentally-friendly option is typically insecticidal soap which is sold in a spray bottle and has a chemical in it referred to as ‘potassium salts of fatty acids.’ When sprayed on insects, this will kill them quickly by disrupting their cellular structure.

When applying any chemical to the garden, be sure to understand how it works, how to apply it and how long will it be to safely eat or even touch the plants that have been treated. For fatty acid sprays, vegetables can often be used the same day they are treated as long as they are well-washed.

Drawing natural predators to insects

To encourage natural predators to eliminate insects, plant more flowers. Lots of big blooming flowers will attract pollinating insects and many insects that feed on pollen will also eat smaller insect pests.

Dealing with bigger pests

Bigger pests require bigger prevention. Tomatoes are a favorite summer treat of all animals, human and otherwise. To protect them from friendly neighborhood squirrels, it really takes a little ingenuity. If there is a real problem, consider using a bird netting. It won’t necessarily keep them out but it might make them uncomfortable getting through it.

Some gardeners swear by sprays that have a sulfur smell like rotting eggs that is sprayed around plants to ward off chipmunks, squirrels and even deer. Effectiveness varies greatly on whether there are easier food sources elsewhere.

Speaking of deer, there is one foolproof method of keeping them out of a garden. Fences. Solid or mesh fences, at least 10 feet tall. They can crawl under fences only a foot off the ground and can easily jump an eight-foot fence with little clearance.

There are also products available on the market that either include or mimic the urine of predatory animals, like foxes and coyotes. When sprinkled or sprayed around the perimeter of a yard, the foul odor can sometimes be just enough to discourage intruders.

The other methods of dealing with garden pests would include giving in and enjoying the natural visitors into the yard, or possibly consider planting more than usual and plan on sharing. This method won’t thrill the neighbors and will probably just result in pest population growth long-term, but could make for a short-term educational experience for the kids.

The next best method of giving-in would be to live in the garden. By making a human presence known and visiting often, larger animals won’t feel as comfortable dropping by. So enjoy the summer in the yard, especially during the animals active hours, early in the morning and in the early evening to dusk when many escape the shade of the hot days and venture out to seek some peaceful meals.

Of course, gardeners can always refer to the popular phrase, “if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em.” Take pride in the garden creation and share those benefits with some hungry four (or more) legged visitors.

Information for this column was contributed by Volante Farms, 292 Forest St., Needham, 781-444-2351, www.volantefarms.wordpress.com.

CHARLESTON, W.Va. — A friend gave me an interesting booklet from Sherry Thaxton, state coordinator of the Adopt-A-Highway/Operation Wildflower. It’s a guide to help homeowners plant wildflowers — just like the popular plantings along our highways.

Although wildflower seeds shouldn’t be planted until fall, I’m sharing this information now so seeds can be ordered and site preparation can be done. Also, summer is a great time to mark plants so that when they go to seed, you can collect the seeds for later planting.

The brochure gives these tips:

An all-annual mix generally will not reseed itself; an all-perennial mix will not flower profusely the first year. Annuals are generally more colorful than perennials. Native and naturalized species will grow better in your area. Beds near the house are usually best with plants that grow to a height of less than 3 feet. Tall plants are better suited to meadows.

The brochure goes into more detail about site and seed selection.

Some species native to West Virginia include perennials such as butterfly weed, lance-leaved coreopsis, purple coneflower, blanket flower, blazing star, blue flax, perennial lupine, prairie coneflower, black-eyed Susan. Annuals include cosmos and calliopsis.

The brochure also lists many nonnative species tolerant to our environment, including white yarrow, cornflower, ox-eye daisy, several poppy varieties and sweet pea.

A northeastern mixture will do best in West Virginia (this mix contains species native or naturalized to this area). Annuals bloom the first year while many perennials do not bloom until the second year, but will return year after year.

Most wildflower seed commercially available is suited for full sun to half-day sun and well-drained soil.

Eliminate grasses and perennial weeds before seeding wildflowers. Cut or mow a planting site as low as possible, and then treat with systemic herbicide. Sites should be allowed to stand untouched one to two weeks, and then a second coat of herbicide applied if necessary.

Seed should be broadcast by hand. Do not cover with soil or mulch, instead, tamp or roll into the soil. General seeding rates are 10 to 20 pounds of flower seed per acre. (The West Virginia Division of Highways plants seeds at a rate of 30 pounds per acre.)

In West Virginia, the ideal planting time for perennials is two to three weeks after the first fall frost, usually in late October/early November. Annual wildflower seed should be planted in late April or early May, however, the seed requires large amounts of moisture for germination. Perennial wildflower seed produces best results when exposed to the heavy moisture and continual freezing and thawing during the winter months.

To plant wildflowers in small areas, scrape away surface vegetation with a shovel, then roughen the soil surface with rake. Mix wildflower seed with sand. Spread sand and seed mixture evenly over planting surface. Press seed and sand into soil by tamping down with a shovel or pressing it in with your feet. Water liberally. Keep well watered until plants are established.

How, where to collect seed

Collecting wildflower seed is done largely by hand because native species usually do not grow in pure stands.

Basic equipment includes gloves, boots, drop cloths, pruning shears, boxes, baskets, paper or canvas bags (no plastic bags). Many plants can be stripped by hand, or the seeds can be beaten onto drop cloths. Screens with large openings are often used to sort seed or fruit from other plant’s parts.

Mark native plants during their flowering season, when they are most noticeable. This is an important step. Seldom will plants growing in the wild catch your attention when they are in fruit, and dried seed stalks are difficult to find.

Always obtain permission from the landowner when collecting seed on private land. Never collect on public land. Areas scheduled to be developed or where native plants will be destroyed in the future are excellent sites for seed collection. Avoid collecting seed from rare or endangered species. Collect only from plants that you find growing abundantly in a given area so that you will not eradicate an isolated population. Never collect seed from plants that have not been identified. At the most, take only one-third of the seed to ensure that enough remains to reseed and increase the stand.

Since production of mature seed is weather-dependent, flowering and fruiting dates vary from year to year. For example, an early spring and dry summer may cause seed to set, or mature early. As a general rule, late August, September and October are the best months for collecting seed.

Collection should begin when fruit and seed are mature. A delay of only a few days can result in an unsuccessful harvest, especially of seeds that are dispersed quickly or are attractive to birds and other animals. Delayed harvesting, even of persistent pods, may also result in insect- or mold-infested pods and seeds.

Many pods or capsules dehisce (break open and expel seed) when ripe and at staggered intervals, making collection difficult. Once maturation begins, these plants may need to be checked every few days for newly matured seed. Or you may invert a paper sack over the blooms and tie the sack off with a twist-tie. Enough light and air will reach the plant to allow it to continue growing, but the sack will collect the seeds as they mature and drop. This way, you will only need to collect seed once, at the end of the seed set.

Collect seeds as soon as they are mature. Mature seeds are usually dark in color, firm and dry. Seeds that are green and moist are immature and generally will not germinate, or will produce unhealthy seedlings. Legume pods should be collected just before or as the pod turns brown, and before it dehisces. The flesh of pulpy fruit often becomes soft and changes from green to yellow to red or blue-purple when ripe. Seeds are often mature a week or more before the fleshy fruit turns color and falls from the plant. Seed maturity can be determined by cutting open the fruit and examining the seed for firmness, fullness and dark color.

Gather fruit from the ground only if it has dropped recently. After the seeds are dried, clean them either by placing in a paper bag and vigorously shaking or by placing the seed on a piece of screen stretched on a frame and vigorously shaking.

Once collected seeds should be air-dried for three to five days in a cool (50 degrees or less), dry (50 percent or less humidity) spot, out of direct sunlight. Store seed in paper sacks for optimum air circulation and to prevent molding. Do not store in plastic containers. Ideally, seeds should be planted within one year.

Unlawful to pick wildflowers

It is illegal to pick roadside flora along West Virginia highways. Here is an excerpt from the law making this act illegal:

West Virginia law §31-3-48(a) It is unlawful to break, cut, take or carry away, or in any manner damage any of the shrubbery or flowers, including everything under the title of flora, whether wild or cultivated, growing within one hundred yards on either side of any public road in this state, without the permission in writing of the owner or tenant of the land upon which the shrubbery or flowers, including everything under the title of flora, are growing.

Reach Sara Busse at sara.bu…@wvgazette.com or 304-348-1249.

By Roger Mercer

Dear Roger: I need your help. My mother passed last week, and I received three beautiful hydrangeas from florists. I want so much for these plants to survive for her memory. Could you please tell me the best way to plant, and do I need to cut the blooms?- Susan, Fayetteville

Dear Susan: First, try to put them where they will get shade in the afternoon. Morning sun is ideal.

Plant now. That will be rough on the plant, because of the heat, but plant anyway. Plants left in pots will be root- bound and may deteriorate by the time cool weather arrives in September or October.

Loosen the roots around the edges of the pot.

Do this lightly and with care to do the least damage possible to the roots. Hydrangeas are sensitive to root damage.

Roots that have curved around inside the pot may have formed an impenetrable barrier that will keep the plant from developing a large, healthy roots system.

If the plant is root-bound or pot-bound, make a few vertical cuts along the outside of the root ball and loosen the roots slightly. This will allow the plant to quickly create a strong root system. They can be grown in full sun but will need much more water for several years until they are fully established. Even then, they will wilt on hot afternoons.

Do not plant too deeply. Plant at the same depth the plant was growing in the pot.

Allow enough space for each plant to grow 5 feet wide.

Our well-drained soil is perfect for hydrangeas, though a good mulch will help greatly.

Heavy clay soils can lead to root rot, so choose soil with good drainage or create a raised bed of soil with good drainage if your are planting over hard clay, which is rare in the Fayetteville area.

Mulch with composted leaves, wood chips, bark or other composted material. Pine needles, composted or not, in a thick layer, will do the job well and look great.

Hydrangeas need little or no fertilizer. But establishment may be faster with a few half-strength applications of soluble fertilizer, such as Miracle-Gro, spaced a month apart for the first year.

Acidic fertilizers and decaying pine needles produce acid soil, which turns hydrangeas blue. Applications of lime will turn the soil alkaline, causing the plants to produce pink flowers.

Make sure you plant where you can water. The plant will need extra water for the first year or two, at least. Water twice weekly until fall, then weekly.

Winter watering usually is not necessary. But sometimes, in a long, warm, dry spell, watering is needed even in the coldest months when the plants are still developing their root systems.

If you plant under trees, more water and fertilizer will be needed for the plant to succeed. The root system will be penetrated by tree roots that will take much of the water and fertility that enter the root zone. Be careful not to put too much fertilizer on hydrangeas. They are sensitive to fertilizer salts and are easily killed by fertilizer.

When you do fertilize, water first. And water thoroughly so that you are certain the root zone is moist. The water again immediately after fertilizing.

Mike McGrath,
wtop.com

WASHINGTON – Heat wave alert!

• Do your harvesting and other light garden chores early in the morning.
  Everything tastes best when picked early in the day, and early morning
  temperatures are a lot more healthy for you. Better to get up early and then take
  a nap at noon than to risk heat stroke from being outside at the worst time of
  day.

• Do not cut your lawn during a dry heat wave. Better to let it grow a
  little tall than to release all of its stored moisture and brown it out.

• Never fertilize a cool-season lawn (bluegrass, rye and/or fescue) in the
  summer. The hotter the weather, the more summer feedings will harm a lawn. And
  summer feedings can never help a cool-season lawn, they can only harm. Cool
  season lawns should only be fed in the spring and fall.

• You can feed Bermuda and zoysia now. Warm-season grasses are fed in the
  summer.

• If temperatures stay high and rain remains scarce, you can water your lawn and
  garden as often as twice a week.

• Water as early in the morning as possible, never during the heat of the day.
  The plants are closed up tight to retain moisture then, and evening watering leads
  to plant disease.

• When you water, do so for a good long time – at least an hour at a pop,
  preferably longer. Short, frequent watering can be worse for lawns and gardens
  than no water at all.

• Containers may need to be watered daily. The smaller the container, the more
  frequently you’ll need to water them (that’s a good reason to trade up to bigger
  pots.) To water containers effectively, give each pot a little water, wait 10 or
  20 minutes, and then deliver more – this will lessen the amount that runs out of
  the bottom and help the plants do better between waterings.

• Don’t use saucers under outdoor containers – unless you want to be a mosquito
  breeder.

Tomato timing: Only early varieties fruit, well …early

Ed in Potomac Falls writes: “I grow tomatoes in pots on my deck (saves them from
being eaten by the local wildlife), but this year I have an unusual situation. I
have a Cherokee Purple and a Moonglow. Both plants are huge, very healthy-looking
and have lots and lots of fruit, but it’s all still green. Any suggestions on
getting these guys to ripen? Or did I just not pick good varieties this year?”

You picked very good varieties, Ed. Cherokee Purple especially garners high praise
for its flavor – but you did not pick early varieties. Tomatoes like Early Girl
and Fourth of July are bred to produce ripe fruits, fast. On average, these
varieties ripen about 50 to 55 days after they’re planted – those types of plants
are producing ripe fruit right now.

Your (much better tasting) heirlooms (and just about every big tomato) take about
a month longer than the early varieties to ripen up – 80 to 90 days from
transplant. So just be patient this year. Next year, plant an early variety if you
want tomatoes in late June.

Yellow jackets in the ivy and Woodsman: Spare that Tree!

Argery in Alexandria writes: “My backyard is full of trees and ivy. I just
discovered that there are yellow jacket nests under the ivy, but it doesn’t seem
feasible for me to try to wade through the ivy to find where the nests are and
cover them with plastic, as you recommended last week. I had a couple of workers come by to give me an estimate on
trimming some of the trees, but they got stung multiple times. Is there a safe way
to get rid of these wasps at a distance? Or do I just let nature run its course
and take care of the tree trimming later in the year?”

Great news, Arg – that tree trimming should wait until winter or next spring,
wasps or no wasps. The trees would suffer severe heat stress if they were trimmed
now, and nothing should ever be pruned in the fall, as it interferes with their
going into dormancy. The ideal time for big tree pruning is when they’re fully
dormant in the winter. Second best is two weeks after they break dormancy in the
spring.

As to the wasps: Place multiple yellow jacket traps around the area to cut their
numbers over the summer. The traps are available commercially
at virtually all hardware stores and home centers. The more traps you use, the
more wasps you’ll take out of the picture and the less chance you’ll get stung.
And this is a great time to reduce their numbers, before they become hyper-
aggressive late in the summer.

Over The Hill

This Coney Island icon debuted when
Coolidge was in the White House.

Rolling in the Joy

Adele is celebrating another milestone: her
first child.

To Rome With Love

A look back at some of Woody Allen’s most
memorable movies.

‘Today’ in Transition

Savannah Guthrie is the new co-anchor of the
“Today” show.

Tips for a harmonious garden

2:14pm Friday 29th June 2012 in News

The RSPB has provided a series of tips to gardeners who want to make sure their outside space is as wildlife friendly as possible this summer.

Adrian Thomas works for the RSPB and is the author of the book, Gardening for Wildlife. He said: “Making a few small tweaks and sticking to some simple rules is the best way to ensure your garden
is in harmony with nature this summer.”

Top 5 tips for a harmonious garden 1. Give your cat a bell Cats’ natural hunting instincts mean they can be a bit of a threat to garden birds. If you have a pet cat then make sure it wears a collar
with a bell attached so birds get an early warning when there’s a predator about.

2. Plants, plants, plants A good rule of thumb is that the more plants you grow, the better it is for wildlife, which is a great excuse to get out there and fill your garden with greenery. Grow
flowers in amongst your vegetables, climbers up the walls, and in pots on your patio.

3. Cut out the chemicals Where possible, avoid using chemicals to kill creepy crawlies or weeds. Pesticides can knock vital layers out of the food chain, when there are often much more constructive
ways of working with nature to sustain a healthy garden.

4. Store up your water for (the opposite of) a rainy day With all the rain we’ve had lately it may seem odd to suggest storing it up to water your plants with, but only a few months ago many of us
were in a drought. Water butts are very environmentally friendly because they collect and store rain water, allowing you to recycle it and give your plants a good drink at the same time.

5. Let hedges be for few more months The main breeding period for garden birds is between 1 March and the end of August, so it’s best to avoid cutting trees or hedges during this time so as not to
disturb any nests. Conifers can provide nesting sites for a variety of species at this time including blackbirds, robins, greenfinch, goldcrest and even larger birds such as sparrowhawks and crows,
so real care needs to be taken during any cutting.

Over 170,000 people have registered for the RSPB’s Homes for Wildlife scheme, a free online service in which you feed in basic information about your garden, generating gardening advice specific to
your type of garden.

For more information on how to create the perfect wildlife garden, visit www.rspb.org.uk/homesforwildlife

Comment now! Register or sign in below.

Or

LUDHIANA: What started with only a couple of publications, keeping in mind the limited needs of a niche farming community of Punjab, has now diversified manifold and is making difference to the lives of countless people from various sections of the society.

Apart from farmers; people interested in setting up kitchen gardens in their houses, auxiliary agriculture like bee-keeping,fishery, mushroom growing and kinnow farming are interestingly gaining popularity with residents picking up the literature published by Punjab Agricultural University (PAU).

“I am quite interested in bee-keeping and started it as a business after reading the literature of PAU. It was very useful and now I am successfully exporting honey in various northern states of the country,” Madhur Gupta, 24, an entrepreneur and resident of BRS Nagar, told TOI.

Shardha Mehndi, a homemaker and resident of Sarabha Nagar, said, “You can find various all weather vegetables and cereals in my kitchen garden. I feel the exposure has given a new meaning to my hobby.”

Some of the most sought after literature by residents included, packages of practice for crops of Punjab (both Rabi and Kharif), progressive farming, crop calendar, agriculture handbook of Punjab and auxiliary agriculture occupation. “I started reading this literature to learn the basics of gardening. But it proved very fruitful and now I have a full-fledged kitchen garden with diverse plants in my courtyard. I am so proud of being able to convert my interest in gardening into a useful venture,” said Sukhman Dosanjh, another homemaker who resides at Sarabha Nagar.

Back at PAU, experts are also enthused with whopping response from different sections of society. “We are publishing the literature on a no-profit basis. Though our target audience is farmers, but its encouraging to know that people from diverse backgrounds like doctors, engineers, students and even homemakers are showing interest in them and buying them,” Dr Jagtar Singh Dhiman, PAU’s additional director communication, said.

“Our literature is very credible as anything can go into it only after a thorough research of four to five years. Besides, we also keep updating at regular intervals,” stated Dhiman.

SAN FRANCISCO, CA — (Marketwire) — 06/27/12 — Janet Moyer Landscaping (JML), a full service landscaping company in San Francisco devoted to addressing the unique challenges of urban gardens, recommends a number of ways that homeowners can deter unwanted critters in their garden. Janet Moyer, company founder and president, suggests the following:

1. Do not leave pet food outside.
2. Make sure garbage cans have tight-fitting lids. If cans tip easily, secure them to something sturdy.
3. Pick up fallen fruit around fruit trees. The sweet fruit is attractive to many critters.
4. If you have fish in a pond, make sure the pond includes rocks for the fish to hide under.
5. If your garden is becoming a litter box, clean up and place citrus peels in the area. The smell of citrus is a natural and non-toxic deterrent for unwelcome pets that may come into your garden. Chicken wire may also help to keep animals out of the garden.
6. If you put food into a composter, make sure it has a solid bottom and secure lid. Side openings should be no more than a quarter of an inch.
7. If digging is occurring, apply beneficial nematodes to get rid of grubs. Grubs are the primary reason moles dig in the garden. If gophers are eating plant roots, plant some garlic in your planting beds. If birds and critters are eating veggies before you do, protect with netting or fencing and hang reflective ribbon nearby.
8. Make sure nesting places are eliminated. Decks should have skirting to prevent access.
9. If critters are chewing on drip irrigation lines, rub bar soap on the tubing. This also works on the trunks of citrus trees.

About Janet Moyer Landscaping
Founded in 1990, Janet Moyer Landscaping is an award-winning full service landscaping company based in San Francisco, CA. It has designed and installed more than 475 unique and customized gardens in San Francisco’s varied terrain. The company specializes in the creation of custom residential landscapes that address the unique challenges posed by San Francisco’s climate, significant grade changes and architectural constraints. Owned and managed by Janet Moyer and Michael Hofman, JML applies sustainable practices to its residential landscape design, installation and maintenance services. In 2010, JML received recognition for its work in designing and installing the first “teaching garden” for children at a public library in San Francisco. For more information, visit www.jmoyerlandscaping.com or call 415-821-3760; and become a member of the JML community at http://www.facebook.com/janetmoyerlandscaping and http://www.twitter.com/jmoyerlandscape.

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Contact:
Carol Crawford
Crawford Communications
415-239-1550
Email Contact

MANY JAMAICANS have grown crops successfully in their backyards or apartments using pots, pans or anything else in which they could put soil.

With the high prices of food and generally unstable supply now facing Jamaica, gardens will help householders to supplement their diet.

Short-term vegetables, condiments and herbs are particularly suited to ongoing production in backyard gardening. They supply energy, vitamins and minerals essential to good nutrition as well as the exotic flavours characteristic of Jamaican food. Backyard gardening also brings savings, exercise, a greater appreciation for nature and the satisfaction of knowing that you grow your own food.

Getting ready to start your garden

An area which receives sunlight at least six hours per day is best.

1. Clear the land of stones, cans, etc., leaving a free area in which to grow crops.

2. Fork the soil to a depth of 25-30 centimetres (10-12 inches) breaking up large particles.

3. Add manure and compost where available. This is most important for sandy or clay soils.

4. Make raised beds 90 centimetres (3 ft) wide and 20-30 centimetres (8-12 inches) high.

5. Protect the area from animals e.g. with a fence.

Crops to grow

Some nutritious foods which are easy to grow are callaloo, pak choi, beans, cucumbers, okra, corn, carrot, tomato and cabbage. Sweet potato will also grow easily but requires more space. If you are a beginner, start with only two or three crops until you become accustomed to operating a garden.

by Stephen Gent, Owner
McDade’s Nursery

Stephen has 14+ years of experience in horticulture as Publisher and Marketing Director for Nursery Management and Production, Greenhouse Management and Production and Garden Center magazine.

An avid gardener with a lifelong passion for plants, he enjoys sharing his knowledge and experience with customers.

As the Texas summer takes hold and daytime temperatures stay in the 90’s or even 100’s, it’s important to monitor what’s happening in your garden. Here are some simple gardening practices that can maintain, preserve and keep your yard looking its very best.

Mulching is a low cost and easy way to make a huge difference in the summer landscape. A mulch covering of 1-2 inches helps reduce soil evaporation and keeps the soil moist for longer. The soil temperature stays several degrees cooler and keeps the roots system cooler and stronger.

A natural barrier is also created by mulching that prevents weeds from germinating. The thicker the mulch the better the weed control. Mulches like pine, hardwood, pecan, cedar or cypress adds color and texture to the garden providing a clean, neat and natural appearance. Cedar and cypress mulch are known to repel insects. The sharp shells of crushed pecans make it difficult for cats and other animals to walk on.

Correct watering at this time of year is critical. The natural tendency is to overwater your garden by watering everyday. It’s best to water 2-3 times per week for longer durations. This allows the soil to dry out and aerate forcing the root systems deeper, creating a stronger and more vigorous plant. The exception to this rule is hanging baskets that can dry out quickly in the heat and wind. Watering later in the day allows fungi to develop overnight. Early morning watering is always recommended.

Remember to move the cutting height of your lawn mower up a notch or two. Having a taller, thicker lawn will require less watering and will keep the grass looking greener. You also don’t have to mow as often!

The grasshopper population is reported to be extremely high this year and causing widespread damage. There are several solutions to reducing their devastating effects. One organic biological insecticide called Nolo Bait that has proven successful in controlling these pests. Nolo Bait is formulated to only kill grasshoppers, safeguarding other beneficial insects like bees and lady bugs. Being organic, it’s also friendly to pets, children and the environment. Ask your local garden center or nursery if they carry it.

Your garden doesn’t have to look bare during the summer. There are plenty of colorful plants that can withstand the Texas heat. Purslane, Spanish Moss, vinca (periwinkle), pentas, portulaca and zinnia will take the full sun. In shady areas try ferns, green leaf begonias, impatiens, nicotiana, hostas and caladiums to provide an interesting mix of color and greenery.

Mid-summer heat can be as uncomfortable for plants as it is for people. Here are some practical seasonal tips for the summer garden.

Lebanon, PA (PRWEB) June 27, 2012

Mid-summer heat can be as uncomfortable for plants as it is for people. Keep flowers, vegetables, trees and shrubs cool and comfortable by watering them deeply once or twice each week. When possible, water in the morning and concentrate the moisture right at soil level. For practical seasonal notes, see the “Garden Landscape Tips” section of preen.com:

•     If tomatoes display a dark, leathery spot on the bottom of the fruit, it is likely “blossom end rot.” This usually indicates that while the fruit was forming, the plant was stressed by fluctuations in soil moisture. To prevent future damage, water deeply and mulch the soil surface to keep the root zone consistently moist.
•     Petunias and calibrachoa often look scraggly by mid-summer. Use scissors to cut them back, reducing the length of their stems by half. This will stimulate new growth and will also keep the plants looking neater. To maintain good flower production, fertilize all flowering annuals weekly right into September.
•     Refresh weed prevention now to stop late-summer weeds before they happen. Many people think most weeds sprout in spring but just as many sprout later in the season. Reapply Preen Garden Weed Preventer around shrubs and perennials to keep new weed seeds from germinating.
•     Now is the time to plant bush beans, cucumbers, carrots and beets for harvest in September and October. Other fall crops that may be planted directly from seed include broccoli, kale and cabbage. Once the young plants are 2 to 3-inches tall, apply Organic Preen vegetable garden weed preventer to minimize weeds in beds.
•     Most types of bearded iris benefit from being divided every couple years. Overcrowded plants produce fewer flowers and are more susceptible to disease and insect damage. For best results, bearded iris should be divided during their dormant period, from mid-July through mid-September. Dig up the entire plant and discard any small or diseased rhizomes. Replant, making sure the top of the rhizome is at or just above the soil surface.

For the original version on PRWeb visit: http://www.prweb.com/releases/prweb2012/6/prweb9639916.htm