Summer can cause problems for plants. From humidity to bugs, from inconsistent temperatures to rain, gardens are often at the mercy of Mother Nature.

Bugs, in particular Japanese beetles, can be problematic for plants. This year, said Kat McGraw, day manager at Ooltewah Nursery, the beetles seem to be short-lived, lasting only two or three weeks. In that short time, however, insects can do damage, eating rosebuds or tender leaves on trees and shrubs such as hydrangeas. Insecticides are available. However, she said she doesn’t prefer them as they can cause harm to beneficial bugs such as bees and ladybugs.

Heat and humidity can cause issues as well.

“This year we’ve seen a lot of fungus, especially powdery mildew, and it’s because we’ve had a variation in temperature,” said McGraw.

Even the hardy Knockout roses, which are meant to be hardy, have had problems, she said.

Fungicides can be applied in the soil, to the roots or externally with a hose or sprayer, depending on the type.

When it comes to water, plants are a little like Goldilocks. They have too much or too little; they need to have just the right amount.

During dry times, be sure to water regularly. The recent rains have been good for the gardens, McGraw said.

“Right now, I think they’re all loving it. They’ve had 100 to 105 degrees for almost a month, which is just not kind to them.”

Too much rain, however, can cause problems if the plants are just sitting in still water with no drainage.

Keep gravel underneath small trees, shrubs and bushes to carry the water off. Otherwise, root rot can set in.

“Root rot will kill the plants. It will basically mold in the ground,” McGraw said.

A few plants, she said, such as weeping willows, like a lot of water, but most need to be well-drained.

The humidity also can cause the same sort of fungal problems.

“This year has been very erratic,” McGraw said. “It’s been like a roller-coaster.”

Humidity, she said, can be especially tough on older varieties of roses.

“They’re prone to black spot, and that just breeds and goes rampant in very humid conditions.”

To deal with this, be diligent about spraying the plants, she said.

5 TIPS

1. To deal with too little rain: Water frequently. Make sure the soil is moist.

2. To deal with too much rain: Be sure the plants have good drainage. Gravel underneath trees and shrubs can help with water runoffs.

3. To deal with bugs: Insecticides are available that can be applied, but they also kill beneficial insects, so hold off if you can.

4. To deal with heat: Inconsistent temperatures can cause fungus, especially white, powdery mildew. Use an antifungal, either in the soil or directly on the plant. Be sure to water sufficiently.

5. To deal with humidity: Humidity can cause black spot, particularly on delicate rosebushes. These can be treated with diligent use of a sprayed antifungal.

During the second week of July, some lucky home farmers may taste their first ripe tomatoes. Most Western Washington gardeners, however, will still be struggling to keep tomato plants alive after the cool and rainy weather of early summer.

Here are the most-asked tomato growing questions:

Q. Why did the leaves of my tomato plant turn purple? I have successfully grown tomatoes for years and this is the first time this has happened. — R.P., Buckley

A. Blame it on the cold, the wind and the wet weather. Anytime the temperature drops below 65 degrees tomato plants shiver and suffer in silence. Next spring invest in a blanket of agricultural fleece sold at garden centers and home stores. Cover your young plants at night until the weather warms up in mid-summer. Purple leaves are also a sign of a phosphorus deficiency because our acid soils do not release phosphorous well. Spread wood ashes around the tomato plants or use a complete fertilizer such as Osmocote or Miracle Grow that contains potassium.

Q. My neighbor and I bought Early Girl tomatoes from the same nursery and he planted his in a container while I planted mine in the ground. His tomato plants look much better than mine. Is this because tomatoes love potting soil? Love growing in pots? He just has a green thumb? He claims he does nothing special and we use the same plant food. — J., email.

A. It’s all about the night temperature. Tomatoes grown in pots, especially black plastic pots that absorb the heat, will be happier in cool climates like ours. Container-grown tomatoes can also be moved close to the house and under the eaves during rain storms. I like to place metal tomato cages around my young plants, then wrap this support system with plastic bubble wrap leaving the top open. This creates a mini-greenhouse to raise the night temperature. By mid-summer I remove the plastic walls so the growing plants can expand.

Q. How often should one fertilize tomatoes? — K. email

A. Tomatoes are hungry plants — but too much nitrogen plant food can encourage foliage over fruit. Organic gardeners use a liquid seaweed extract two or three times during the growing season according to the package instructions. You can also use a slow-release plant food like Osmocote once at planting time so the nutrients will be released all summer. A flower and vegetable plant food like Miracle Grow, Bonnie’s Herb and Vegetable food or Peter’s Professional plant food will get the nutrients to hungry tomato plants quickly because they can absorb the nutrition from their leaves when these water-soluble plant foods are used. With so many options for feeding tomatoes, the most important advice is to read and follow label directions. Remember that the first number on the fertilizer label is nitrogen — and for tomatoes, that first number should not be higher than the other two numbers (potassium and phosphorous) listed on the label. The most important time to feed your tomatoes is two to three weeks after transplanting and again once the fruit is set but before it has ripened.

Q. Help! All my tomato plants have dark spots on the older leaves and the stems are now turning brown. I do know this is probably a blight caused by wet weather but my question is there anything I can do to save the plants? — P.L., Longview

A. My sympathies for the blight upon you. You can take heroic measures and spray your plants with a copper fungicide every 7 to 10 days following label instructions and this may save the plants. Option two is to buy some potted cherry tomatoes from the garden center and enjoy fresh tomatoes grown in pots inside a greenhouse that have been protected from the cold and rain. A good tomato for our area that is resistant to leaf blight is Early Cascade.

Q. What is the best tasting tomato that will grow in our area? I do grow the dependable Early Girl but the flavor seems a bit flat. — Anonymous

A. The best- tasting tomatoes for cool climates are the small cherry or patio tomatoes; in blind taste tests the yellow baby tomatoes do best. Sun Gold, Husky Gold or yellow pear tomatoes all have high sugar contents and great tomato flavor with a bonus of ripening early and growing on compact plants that do well in containers. It is not too late to invest this summer in these flavor-packed winners. A ripe tomato warm from the sun and popped directly into your mouth is one of the joys of summer gardening.

Send your gardening questions to Marianne Binetti at P.O. Box 872, Enumclaw WA 98022, enclosing a self-addressed, stamped envelope for a personal reply. Or see her Web site: www.binettigarden.com

Botrytis cinerea (gray mold) is a problem on strawberries this year thanks to the rainy weather this spring.

The fungus causes infected blossoms to turn brown and dry up. Infected fruit develops a soft brown rot that usually shows up as the fruit is ripening. Rotted fruit and other infected plant parts left in the garden get covered with gray spores. Strawberries produced from infected flowers almost always develop the disease, but fruit from uninfected flowers is also susceptible.

Chemical treatments aren’t always effective and have health concerns. Fortunately, there are other ways to help prevent your strawberries from contracting the disease.

Botrytis spreads from infected plant parts, so in winter, prune off the old foliage. In spring and summer, remove dead and dying leaves and infected buds and flowers whenever they appear.

Air circulation is critical. Allow adequate space between plants and avoid overfertilizing to lessen excessive, dense foliage. Mulch with plastic or straw to prevent the berries from touching the ground, and pick ripe berries frequently. If the problem is serious and recurring, consider moving your strawberry patch to a sunny, well-drained, windy location where leaves will dry faster.

Charming Chinese

ground orchids

One of the easiest ground orchids to grow is Bletilla striata (Chinese ground orchid). With numerous pink orchid flowers atop arching 12-15 inch stems, it makes a lovely addition to the bright woodland shade garden.

For years, the standard pink was the only Bletilla available, but interesting new varieties are beginning to show up at local nurseries.

Bletilla striata “Albostriata” features white-edged leaves and pinkish-purple flowers, while Bletilla striata “Alba” features snow-white flowers.

My new favorite, which I recently scored at Gray Barn Nursery in Redmond, is Bletilla ochracea (Chinese Butterfly). Each stem carries three to five small, creamy yellow flowers, highlighted with a purple-speckled lip.

Most Bletillas need only moist rich soil and morning sun or bright shade to thrive, but the yellow Chinese Butterfly is evidently a bit more demanding and sometimes dies if conditions aren’t just right. Don’t worry about it: This beauty blooms brilliantly for a two-month period, so it’s worth trying, even if it ends up an annual.

Watch out for serious lily pests

The lily leaf beetle, which has decimated lilies in New England since it showed up there in 1992, was recently discovered in a Bellevue garden.

The adult beetles are beautiful: scarlet on top, black on the bottom and just over a half-inch long, but the damage they cause is anything but pretty. Each adult can lay up to 450 eggs and the larvae, which hatch almost all at once, are eating machines that devour leaves, buds and flowers at a record rate.

If you see damage on your lilies (they also attack hollyhock, hosta, potatoes, fritillarias and lily of the valley) look to see if bright red adults, red or brown egg masses, or the larvae covered with a soft brown gooey substance are present.

El kabatski pest control doesn’t work well to control this menace. The adults are fast and drop from the plant at the slightest threat, the eggs are hard and difficult to crush, and the larvae cover themselves with their own excrement, making them too slippery (and disgusting) to squish.

Two environmentally friendly sprays can help control the problem. Neem oil, a well-known spray for roses, and spinosad, a natural bacterium, can be effective, but only if they are applied at the first sign of damage and reapplied every 5 to 7 days as long as needed.

Ciscoe Morris: ciscoe@ciscoe.com; “Gardening with Ciscoe” airs at 10 a.m. Saturdays on KING-TV.

 

Growing seedlings

Sow the seeds in a seed box or commercial seedling tray.

For a seed box, sandy, loamy soil, manure, coir (optional), straw, small stones and a box or similar container with drainage holes, at the bottom are needed.

1. Mix together one part sand, two parts clean, loamy soil, one part well-broken-down farmyard manure and one part coir dust.

2. Put small stones over holes in container and straw over stones so soil will not fall out.

3. Fill box with soil mixture or potting mix.

4. To kill pests and some disease organisms, pour boiling water over the soil to soak it properly. Most commercial potting mixtures are already sterilised.

5. After the soil has cooled and drained, level the seedbed and make rows eight centimetres (three inches) apart.

6. Sow seeds singly in rows and cover to a depth of 0.5-1 centimetre (1/4-1/2 inch).

7. Water lightly, cover with plastic to retain moisture, place box in a cool area and check daily for sprouting.

8. When the first two true leaves open fully, water with a fertiliser starter solution and at three-day intervals afterwards.

Transplant seedlings when they reach one to 15 centimetres (four to six inches) tall.

Information provided by the Rural Agricultural Development Authority (RADA).

Whether you’re just starting to plant or your garden is in full swing, check out these unique tips to help you grow better, healthier plants. These tips are eco-friendly, organic and mostly free!

1. Create a natural fertilizer by crushing up old eggshells in a food processor or blender. Sprinkle the shells into your garden to enrich the soil. Eggshells contain calcium that some plants like tomatoes and eggplants need to avoid rot. The extra calcium helps combat this.

Eggshells also combat slugs and other pests, as well.  For more tips on keeping slugs and bugs away from your plants, check out this post on TwinkleVanWinkle.com.

 

2. Keep weeds at bay with vinegar and salt. If you have a large area of weeds you’d like to get rid of, pour vinegar on the leaves and salt on the roots. Make sure to keep away from things you DON’T want killed. The salt will leave the soil dead for several months. It is a great way to kill plants in the fall and prepare an area for spring planting, however.

3. Layer old newspapers three or four layers deep onto areas where weeds are a problem. The paper will smother the plants and keep them from getting any of the sunlight they need to grow.

4. Try making your garden some tea. Chamomile tea is perfect for keeping bacteria and fungus at bay. Pour a cooled batch of chamomile tea onto the roots of plants to help keep veggies and flowers healthy.

 

5. Save the water after you boil vegetables, and even noodles. The leftover water is full of nutrients and vitamins that your plants will love to drink. Just let the water cool down before using it on plants.

For tips on growing great tomatoes, check out this post from last month.

6. Document your success as well as your failures. A gardening journal is the best way to make sure you remember the great things you’ve done, as well as helps to keep you from duplicating the mistakes the next growing season.

7. Give your plants some friends. Companion plants really can help grow your garden to its fullest potential. Fragrant herbs repel pests while nectar-rich plants, like sunflowers and zinnia, attract beneficial insects that help pollinate.

8. A well-placed soaker hose lets water seep slowly into the soil around your plants. This is a great way to get much-needed water to the roots on a steady schedule. Water your plants easily in the morning and evenings, avoiding midday sun. This method also helps your plants avoid bacteria and fungus that can appear from shock and spot watering.

For more watering tips, go to TwinkleVanWinkle.com and check out Twinkle’s 10 Watering Tips.

9. Give your plants support by tying them up to a stake, cage or even fencing. Use old pantyhose for the best way to camouflage the ties in the garden while giving them a little bit of flexibility with the stretchy material. Great way to recycle ripped or torn stockings as well!

10. When it gets down to it, your hands are the best and most effective weed deterrent. For small, intermittent weeds, a little elbow grease and some manual weed-pulling goes a long way. It’s a great way to commune with your garden and get down and dirty to investigate if there are any problems you may be overlooking.

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For more on gardening, tech geekery, food and music, check out twinklevanwinkle.com. Find Twinkle on Foodspotting, Tumblr and Twitter.

Twinkle VanWinkle ponders, creates and discovers cool stuff about music, movies, food, fashion and so forth. Her thoughtful writings and interactives give great advice about healthy food, cooking tips, DIY projects, fashion and more. She’ll teach you a thing or two about music as well. Along with producing dynamic entertainment content for LIN Media, she is a mother, musician and social media fanatic.

TV garden expert David Domoney provides conservatory and garden tips from the Hampton Court Palace Flower Show

Visitors to last week’s Hampton Court Palace Flower Show may not have had perfect summer weather but they were able to pick up some top conservatory and garden tips from TV garden expert David Domoney in the Hampton Grapevine Theatre, sponsored by conservatory, door and window double glazing specialist Anglian Home Improvements, to help them make the most of their garden, rain or shine.

David Domoney, who is currently appearing on ITV’s Love Your Garden with Alan Titchmarsh, provided some great ideas for bringing the best of your garden into and around your home – meaning you can enjoy the benefits and beauty of a garden all year round.

“Tropical plants such as Bird of Paradise and citrus fruit grow well in a conservatory, adding a splash of colour and fragrance to your home,” says David. “It’s important to ensure that your plants are well cared for though as conservatories can get very hot when the sun shines. Technology such as Anglian’s Solaroof limits heat build-up in summer and reduces UV penetration, while automatic electronic or thermostatic roof vents will allow air to circulate through the conservatory to keep the plants in top condition. Better still, if you have bi-fold doors, which are my personal favourite, you can open the whole side of the conservatory to give the plants plenty of fresh air, enjoying a sense of stylish outdoor living at the same time.”

According to David, external window boxes are becoming more popular and are another way to bring a little of the garden indoors. He recommends planting pretty and fragrant varieties such as dwarf lavender that will bring colour and scent into the home, or planting herbs such as oregano, sage and parsley by a kitchen window to provide fresh ingredients within easy reach.

Hanging baskets and tubs at the base of the front door are another way to improve the look of your home, making it instantly more appealing. They can be changed with the season to maintain a fresh, colourful look, while structured topiary such as trained box will lend a slightly regal feeling to the entrance to your home. Planting jasmine close to the front door will also add a heavenly scent to complete an impressive welcome for your guests.

More ideas and tips from David for bringing a bit of the garden into your home can be found on Anglian’s YouTube channel at www.youtube.com/user/AnglianWindows. To be in with a chance of receiving bespoke advice for your garden, Anglian Home Improvements is running a free prize draw to win a £10,000 garden makeover by David and his team of Garden Angels. For more information, including full terms and conditions, please visit www.anglianhome.co.uk/hampton-court-flower-show.

Ends

Notes to Editors

About Anglian Home Improvements:

Established in 1966, Anglian Home Improvements is the UK’s leading home improvements company, responsible for the employment of 4500 people. With more than 45 years’ experience of providing UVPC double-glazing windows, Anglian ensures it is ahead of the competition with a continuing research and development programme. Anglian offers an extensive range of home improvement products, including double glazing replacement windows and doors, conservatories, driveways, solar products, garage conversions and roof trims

For further information visit www.anglianhome.co.uk or please contact:

Melanie McDonald at Anglian Home Improvements

01603 405911
Melanie.mcdonald@angliangroup.com

or

Jacqui Green at JGMPR

07885 270 349
Jacqui@jgmpr.com

This press release was distributed by SourceWire News Distribution on behalf of Jacqui Green Marketing. For more information visit http://www.dwpub.com/sourcewire

By Carol Stocker

The annual Iris Society of Massachusetts auction July 29 will be hosted by Stephanie Markham and Larry Wilson at 22 Lawrence Street, Norfolk, from noon to 4:00 PM for members and their guests. This is an opportunity to obtain newer irises at prices below those listed in the catalogs. There is also a sale table with older irises. Bring a chair.

Directions to 22 Lawrence Street, Norfolk, MA

FROM Boston/Points northeast via southeast Expressway: Take the Southeast Expressway(south) to Rt128N/95S; take Rt 95 South, then take Rt 495 North. Follow directions from Rt 495.

FROM North/Northeast/Southeast via Rt 495: Take Rt 495 South or North. Take Exit 16 (Franklin, King Street). Go LEFT off the exit if coming from the north, or go RIGHT off the exit if coming from the south. Go through 1 set of lights almost immediately. Go through another set of lights at the intersection with Rt 140 after about 1 mile. About 1 mile further, take a RIGHT on MILL ST. Travel about 1 mile to #22 Lawrence Street (Mill Street becomes Lawrence Street after about 1/2 mile when you enter Norfolk from Franklin). #22 Lawrence Street is on the RIGHT — a white and gray house with white and gray awnings, and an uphill driveway.

FROM Points North: Take Rt 128 (95S) south. Take Exit 16B (Rt 109 W towards Westwood). Follow Rt 109 through several towns (9+ miles) until you reach Millis and the intersection with Rt 115. Take a LEFT on Rt 115. Travel into the center of Norfolk (about 4 miles) and take a RIGHT at the rotary in the center of town onto MAIN ST. Travel about 1.7 miles to a blinking light and take a LEFT onto PARK ST. Take your 3rd RIGHT onto LAWRENCE ST. #22 Lawrence Street is the 4th house on your LEFT — a white and gray house with white and gray awnings, and an uphill driveway.

FROM Points West (Framingham/Natick): Take Rt 27 south to Rt 115 south (take a RIGHT onto Rt 115). Follow Rt 115 into the center of Norfolk (a little over 7 miles). Take a RIGHT at the rotary in the center of town onto MAIN ST. Travel about 1.7 miles to a blinking yellow light and take a LEFT onto PARK STREET. Take your 3rd RIGHT onto LAWRENCE ST. #22 Lawrence Street is the 4th house on your LEFT — a white and gray house with white and gray awnings, and an uphill driveway.

istockphoto.com/groveb

Want to get that “I rocked this” vibe when looking at your lawn? Follow the tips in this column from Master Gardeners Brad and Mary Drury.

Brad: The cool, early summer weather, including a smattering of rain showers and clouds, has been clearly very good to the lawns in this valley. If you have a lawn, assuming you’ve mowed it somewhat regularly and you’ve applied nitrogen at some point this spring, I’d be willing to bet that it’s currently a shimmering vision of velvety emerald softness.

So your lawn looks like the 18th green at Augusta National. Congrats. We’ve successfully grown grass in perfect grass-growing conditions. Problem is, the heat is now hitting, and though the cooler weather might have fooled you a bit, you still live in a high-desert climate zone. So now what?

Mary: As temperatures increase, there are some simple solutions which will both save water and suppress weeds. First, if your mower deck is cutting your grass lower than 3 inches, it’s a good idea to raise it.

It’s very likely in this valley that your lawn is made up of 85 percent to 90 percent Kentucky bluegrass mixed with a variety of rye grass. At lower mowing heights, not only is more frequent mowing required, but the resulting stands of grass will be weaker when mowing height gets below 2 inches. Also, at mowing heights below 2 inches, annual grass weeds like barnyard grass and crabgrass will have a much easier time invading your turf and your lawn will lose more moisture during hot summer months. Subsequent mowings need to be frequent enough so that no more than a third of the leaf is cut at each mowing.

Brad: Even though it is the predominant turf in this area, it’s important to remember that Kentucky bluegrass is actually a cool-season grass and things start to get dicey for it once temperatures rise above 80 degrees. It spreads by rhizomes and tillers to form a dense sod, but it has a characteristically shallow root system, and at 80 degrees or above, root growth basically ceases.

Compared to the warm-season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass has a high water requirement. Therefore, as much as 2 inches of water per week are needed to keep bluegrass green and growing during summer months in our growing zone. Ideally, this amount of water would be applied in one day to wet the entire rootzone of the turf. However, because of its shallow rootzone, Kentucky bluegrass is often unable hold that amount of water.

In my experience, in the heat of a Wenatchee summer, no less than 1 inch of water needs to be applied every 2 to 3 days to promote deeper rooting of bluegrass in this area. And of course, watering should be done between 9 p.m. and 9 a.m. for optimum results.

Mary: For gardeners who remembered to apply pre-emergent herbicide in mid-March this year, remember another application is still needed for best results. Weed seeds will have traveled onto your lawn by various means of transport (wind, shoes, birds, etc.) and many will survive the winter freeze. You can get a head start on next year’s weed control by applying pre-emergent again in mid-September.

Brad: A final component of maintaining a healthy lawn throughout the summer is to keep your lawn mower blades sharp. Blunted mower blades can decrease the surface area of the grass by as much as four times. A shredded or torn grass blade creates a place for water to escape from the plant. This, in turn, can cause the plant to wilt and potentially die. Sharp blades, especially during July and August, will greatly reduce the risk of wilt in your lawn.

Mary: Admittedly, lawn care isn’t the flashiest of topics, but it’s definitely a satisfying sight to see your lush, green lawn at the end of a long day and think “I rocked this.”

A WSU Master Gardeners of Chelan County column appears regularly in the Home, Garden section. Master Gardeners Brad and Mary Drury are two of five columnists featured.

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• 
  Amber Dew
• 
  Skewers as ramparts

FARGO – Hear that wailing?

That’s gardeners in the metro area after rabbits with big, sharp, pointy teeth have turned their carefully maintained spreads into all-you-can-eat bunny buffets.

Those flower and vegetable lovers are going through the stages of garden grief: Denial. Anger. More Anger. And more anger still.

Who needs the other stages when you want to go all Elmer Fudd on their hopping heinies!

No scheme is too hare-brained for the desperate if there’s any hope of protecting their petunias, parsnips, peas or pansies.

Janice Tuel spent 20 years fighting the good fight in north Moorhead, but she’s gone into full defensive mode with her recent move to south Fargo.

“The very first time I discovered them, I thought they were cute,” Tuel said.

Now?

“I hate the little buggers!”

It started with a brand new plant. She likes miniature hostas. Some of them are $25 a pop. The next morning …

“There was nothing but a stalk left. My hatred started growing from there,” Tuel said.

If she found nests, she rousted the occupants. She tried poison, but gave it up for worries about neighborhood pets and her grandchildren. She live-trapped, but they mostly ignored her baits for the growing things outside of the cages. She went for firepower but nothing of the killer caliber.

“I have a pellet gun, and I got pretty good, but it just didn’t deter them,” she said.

“Nothing stops them. Nothing. I’ve tried pepper spray, fox urine. Fox urine!” Tuel said.

“Every winter, no matter what I do, they chew down my clematis down to the snowline,” she said.

When she found snowbank rabbit runs by her house, she stamped out the squatters.

“I’d be tromping away down at the snow. I was the crazy woman. I thought if I kept it (the snow) down, they couldn’t live next to my house,” Tuel said.

At her new south Fargo digs a couple of blocks south of Doolittle’s, she has a fenced backyard.

“I’ve used hardware cloth all around (the bottom of the fence). I have a shed which they live under. My plan is to lift the shed, and fill in underneath,” she said.

“But, south Fargo has rabbits, rabbits and rabbits,” she said, noting that four were congregating in the street the other day.

These rabbits are bold, she said. They’re like rabbit delinquents, just needing cigarettes, beer and tattoos saying, “Hopping to heck!” to fill out the part.

“I’ve gone running out at night in my nightgown, yelling, ‘Yahhhhh!’” Tuel said. “I’d chase the rabbits. Never. Caught. One.”

To the ramparts!

Amber Dew admits to being “kind of a softy” with rabbits.

But this is war. And if Peter Rabbit wants to get too aggressive, well, it’s bunny kebab time.

Dew, a student who lives near the Cass County Courthouse, spent nearly $400 on plants this year.

She figures she’s lost about half of that. And that doesn’t include what’s gone that she planted last year.

She’s used bone meal and blood meal, hoping the scent would work, but now she’s using Iron Age tactics.

Dew installs “ramparts” around her tender plants.

Using wooden shish kebab sticks, she creates spiky wooden barriers around the plants.

Think of the coneflowers as little Roman centurions, and the bunnies as barbarians. You get the picture.

“I take wooden skewers, insert them into the ground at all angles to protect my land,” Dew said.

Odd as it sounds, it works.

“Every once in a while I find a broken rampart. If there’s something pokey, they’re not going in there. This week, it’s been fairly successful,” Dew said.

Hold your fire, Mr. Fudd

Rabbits are a gray area with law enforcement.

First off, you definitely can’t use guns or BB guns or bows in town, says Kari Waller, a community service officer with the Fargo Police Department who works the animal control beat.

No matter how effective a .22 bullet is in sending Thumper to the big rabbit warren in the sky, it’s a misdemeanor offense to discharge firearms in the city limits of Fargo, Moorhead or West Fargo.

Poison is usable, but it can be a danger to pets and children, Fargo police Sgt. Ryan Dorrheim said.

You can live trap rabbits and try to relocate them, Waller said.

Smiting one lustily with a shovel or a garden hoe might get a pass. But actions that could be considered torture, such as drowning, would be illegal, and could pull a fine in Fargo of up to $500 for animal cruelty, Waller said.

It’s far safer, legally, to stick with a defensive strategy, like fencing, Waller said.

She said human hair, dog hair, moth balls and sprays available at lawn and garden stores are sometimes effective, too.

Know your enemy

Cole Rupprecht, a Cass County Extension agent for agriculture, raises rabbits.

He’s said a fence will do the trick, as long as it’s not wood or plastic, which can be chewed. Chicken wire works especially well, he said.

Rabbits are finicky when it comes to smell, so using repellent scents makes sense: blood meal, moth balls or hair can be a deterrent, he said. But they must be applied often.

Rabbits like new growth, Rupprecht said. Soybean seedlings are toast if they can get to them. Same goes for alfalfa and leafy greens and green vegetables.

“They like to eat the tops off most things,” he said. And they roam around, grazing from garden to garden, he said.

Rabbits look like rodents but aren’t. They’re lagomorphs, Rupprecht said. Their digestive systems are similar to a horse, so they’ll eat pretty much what a horse will eat.

Rabbits are similar to hares, but rabbits are born hairless and blind.

Jackrabbits are actually hares. They are seen more on the edges of the metro area in less habited areas, Rupprecht said.

Rabbits do breed fast.

A rabbit is mature in as little as six months. The gestation period for a litter is 28 days, Rupprecht said.

Keep a watch cat

Lynn Propp of Wheaton, Minn., has found the perfect anti-rabbit ally.

It’s Echo.

His cat.

The 8-year-old kitty has been keeping the Propps’ many gardens free of rabbits for years. As have the family’s previous two cats.

In all, the Propps have enjoyed 42 years of relatively rabbit-free gardening, thanks to their ferocious feline fence.

“They’re housecats, but they can come and go outside anytime they want to. They always stick around the house,” he said. “All our cats are always females. Cats are extremely territorial. Anything on their territory, they defend.”

Propp said he and his wife have hedges. The cats simply kill the small and half-grown rabbits in the hedges, he said.

“Real little, they’ll eat off the heads and bring up the bodies and leave them on the steps for us. Kind of like bringing home groceries,” Propp said.

None of their large vegetable and flower gardens gets chomped, he said.

“So I think the cat’s presence. She’ll sit out on the back step. She’s like a watcher,” he said. “It’s good to have a watch cat.”

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History records and explains past events, while folklore preserves what people widely remember.

History and Folklore!

This July 14, 2012 residents and non-residents will have the opportunity to experience why Greendale is called ‘The Garden Community’. The Annual Greendale Garden Gazing Walk will be held on Saturday from 8 a.m. until noon. This is the 18^th Annual walk organized by a small and dedicated group of individuals who share a love of gardening. Their efforts and the cooperation of community gardeners make it possible to see gardens that are normally hidden from view. The walk starts and ends at Greendale Gazebo Park, 5710 Broad Street (i.e. for you GPS techies).

Before I tell you about this amazing group, here are some more particulars concerning the walk:

• Walk goes on ‘Rain or Shine’
• Free to the public, but donations to support the event are welcome
• The self-guided tour starts at the Gazebo where the tour map is picked up
• Signs, chalk arrows and signposts show the way
• Homeowners will be available to answer questions
• Walk should take approximate 2 hours, allowing for 15 minutes at each garden on the walk
• No dogs allowed on the tour, no strollers, bikes or wagons in the yards
• A rest area with refreshments and rest rooms is located along the route
• A raffle can be entered after the tour, with a drawing at noon
• Raffle prizes will be delivered if not there for the noon drawing

Now for the rest of the story:

As described in a previous story (see week #59) the early residents in 1938 were families moving from crowded conditions in cities. The Greenbelt communities of Greendale WI, Green Hills OH, and Greenbelt MD were planned communities designed around the Garden City model in Great Britain. In these three new communities, a small entrance to the house faced the street, but the main living area in the rear of the house looked out over larger green spaces. With this improvement in their living conditions many took the opportunity to plant flower and vegetable gardens. There was an annual flower contest, and in a previous story (see Week #71) Bruce Meyer said that his dad John won the contest three times. Over the years these contests were discontinued.

Then in 1995 a small group of residents decided to showcase some of unique hidden gardens in Greendale for everyone to enjoy. The Greendale Garden Gazing Club was formed and the first walk originating from Pioneer Park was held in June of 1995. The Greendale Garden Gazing walk is one of the only free walks in the area. Contributions from major sponsors like the Greendale Entertainment Association and ‘The Shoppe Around the Corner’ help finance the event. Partnerships established over the years provide additional support. The Greendale Visitor Center donates the tables, the churches provide rest areas, and Tri City Bank furnishes a popcorn machine. The Village Department of Public Works steps up huge by setting out trash cans and barricades. They also repair sidewalks and conduct a pre-walk to make sure the route is safe.

Paula Wallner, one of the members of the club, provided some insight into the thinking behind the event. She said the members have a love of gardening, but also like walking. This annual event encourages walking for people of all ages, and the tour takes them along some of the many walking paths in Greendale they might not otherwise take. It also brings people to the Village Center. She estimates that 50% of the 500 plus participants in the walk are from outside Greendale. Paula concluded by saying, “People plan their vacations around this walk. It is always the 2^nd Saturday in July.”

Another member, Pam Kania listed what she thinks are the key elements that make this annual event a success. First, the hidden gardens would not be seen unless this walk existed. Second, the homeowners are there during the walk. People love to talk with them, ask questions, compare notes on gardening. Next, the walk has different levels of gardening. Some gardens are grand; some are just ‘container’ gardens. This provides appeal for everyone. Lastly, the tour rotates between different sections of the Village each year. Homeowners and gardens change. This variety keeps the tour fresh and people coming back year after year.

I must admit I’ve never been on one of these Greendale Garden Gazing walks, but that is going to end this Saturday, July 14th. I like walking, think flowers and plants are OK, and find what the club does to stage this event amazing. The time spent and the details they must work out every year are substantial. As soon as this years’ event concludes they will start work on 2013. I hear they are planning something absolutely special for Greendale’s 75^th Diamond Celebration year.

Kudos go out to the sponsors, the supporting partners, and the participants. Finally, special thanks to all the club members and the homeowners who so generously share their love of gardening with us all.

But did you know?

It’s hot out there this summer. After two days in a row of over 100 degrees, I thought I’d ask the plant guru from Grandhaven, Stacy Yingling, for some hints in caring for outdoor plants. The first thing she said was that “more plants are killed by overwatering than under watering”. That surprised me. I always worry that I’m not watering enough during the excessive heat. She explained that “a plant that is too dry can usually be brought back, but if too wet it is hard to save”. She said yellow leaves are usually a sign of over watering. During very hot periods her crew will water plants every day, but otherwise every other day in the mornings.

The other big tip she gave me was that plants should have good drainage. There should always be a drainage hole or holes in the bottom of potted flowers. Stacy explained, “You can’t have too many holes. We usually water until we see the water coming out of the holes. It’s the soil that you want to get soaked with water.” She said you can use coffee filters over the holes to keep the soil from running out of the pot if that is a problem. So there you have it. Two easy tips from the ‘guru’ that should help your plants survive. However, for award winning plants I’m sure more care is involved.

People, Past Present!

Take a summer stroll down either side of Broad Street outside the Village businesses and you’ll see gorgeous flowers in plots or hanging baskets. The landscaping crew from Grandhaven plants and prepares this picturesque scenery, and the Weed Out Warriors (aka WOW) keep the plots spruced up to perfection. This is fittingly a community effort that began in 1997.

In the fall of 1996 Grandhaven LLC purchased the northern most Broad Street business buildings and began remodeling them and creating new landscaping. In 1997 a call went out for volunteers to assist with maintaining the garden plots. That’s when the Weed Out Warriors were formed. Each WOW individual, family, or business has an assigned plot and their name is on a small sign. Every volunteer receives a uniquely designed WOW t-shirt each year at a kickoff party. Then it is their responsibility to till the soil, pull the weeds and snap off the dead heads during the growing season.  

With all the effort that goes into planting and maintaining the flower beds, I wondered what kind of damage the crowds do during the 4^th of July and Village Days parades. I posed that question to Stacy Yingling, the ‘General’ in charge of the Grandhaven landscape crew and the Weed Out Warriors. She said that the crowds are very respectful of the plantings and don’t hurt the flowers. That’s pretty amazing considering the large crowds, blankets, chairs, and strollers along Broad Street during the parades. I guess everyone recognizes the special beauty of the Village Center.

Thanks to these individuals for the beauty in the Village Center in 2012:

Grandhaven LLC Landscape Department: Stacy Yingling, Jesse Meltzer, Dennis Vilkoski and part-time helpers Arthur Starosciak, Carley Johnsen, and Kyle Johnsen.

2012 Weed Out Warriors: Pam Ariens, Jen Brunhoefer Cris Reischl,
Sally Biermann, Morgan Jacob Schroeder, Sally Chadwick, Druse Family, Hugh Evans, Duane Janet Freitag, Alana Holter, Bubba Brair Huffman, Jim Susie Jankowski, Deb Kevin Keesler, Ted Bernie Knier, Cheryl Josh Koc, Tom Gloria Lacey, M I, Steve, Judy Joel Maersch, Sherry Randy Meyer, Terry Nancy Newton, Jim Mary Ann Schaefer, Al Patti Sikorski, Ahliya Sotelo, Cheryl Mimi Soto, Gina Turner, Bob Paula Wallner, Cathy Walters, Mary Ann Dan Zauner, Greendale Garden Gazing Club. Note: To become a WOW stop in at the Visitor Center and sign up.  

Greendale Trivia Question and Answer:

Week#57 Answer – The answers to last weeks’ questions did not come in yet, but when they do we’ll be sure to let you know. The questions again are: Does anyone know when the water ‘exhibitions’ put on by the Fire Department ended? Does anyone have more recent pictures of these water games and the individuals involved?

Week#56 Question – What is the name of the field where the Greendale Panthers play their baseball games? What is the significance of the name?

** Week #56 contributors Sally Chadwick, Greendale Garden Gazing Club, Paula Wallner, Pam Kania, Stacy Yingling.