By now, if you’ve been maintaining a vegetable garden throughout the summer, it’s about time to harvest some of the fruits of your labor.

If you aren’t a seasoned gardener, then it’s safe to say you’ve got some questions about picking and even storing your bounty.

When should I pick my veggies?

Picking, and how you pick, depends on what you are growing.

Here is the short list of the how and when:

Tomatoes:

Tomatoes come in all shapes and sizes, and sometimes it can be hard to tell if they are ripe enough to pick if you don’t know what to look for.

It’s good to find out before you plant what their grow life can be, and what they will look like when they are ready to be picked. Large slicer tomatoes will take longer to ripen on the vine, and some heirloom varieties take even longer than Better Boys or Beefsteak tomatoes.

If you think your tomato is ready to be picked, test the ripest-looking one by giving it a gentle twist. If it pulls easily from the vine, it is ready.

Keep tomatoes in a cool place, outside of the refrigerator. They will last up to a week, that is, if you can keep from eating them.

If your plants are still fruiting up until frost time, go ahead and pick everything, even the green ones, about a week before the frost. You can wrap them individually in newspaper or store in paper bags to aid in ripening.

Or you can make fried green tomatoes!

Herbs:

Once your herbs have gotten about 12” tall, you can start by cutting or pinching them back frequently to encourage more production. This keeps them from blooming.

Keeping your plants from blooming is a good way to keep the flavor consistent, and extra herbs can be dried for future use or shared with friends.

Basil is a heat-loving plant, so it will thrive during the hotter months of the summer. This means you will need to cut it back constantly to keep it from flowering.

You can keep cut basil in water for up to a week in the kitchen for use. If you have an abundance of it, try mixing it in with some fresh flower arrangements or making a big batch of pesto you can freeze for later.

Lettuces and greens:

Lettuces and greens are cool weather plants, although they can grow in the heat, depending on the variety. It’s best to pick them before they bolt, which means before they develop a flower stalk that can make the flavor turn bitter.

Start by cutting the largest leaves first, and then come back later for smaller leaves that are younger and more tender. Lettuces and greens are referred as “cut and come again” plants because they keep growing as you harvest.

It’s best to use scissors for harvesting them, and cut only what you plan on eating immediately – a day or so if possible.

To keep your lettuces and greens going throughout the season, plant seeds every two or three weeks, and you’ll have lettuce enough until it gets too hot to grow. Try placing the plants in partial shade to keep plants from bolting in extreme heat.

You can start sowing seeds again once it cools down, and into the fall growing season.

There is no way to store lettuce or greens for the whole winter, but placing them in an aerated container with a paper towel in the fridge can help you keep them for a few days if need be.

Peppers:

Depending on the variety, peppers are ready to pick when they are green. The longer on the vine, the more their color can change – red, yellow, purple, etc.

Leaving them longer will deepen their flavor, but can aid them in loosing their crispness.

It’s true. The longer you leave a hot pepper on the vine, the hotter it gets. Depending on variety and how hot you want your peppers is when you’ll harvest them.

It’s easy to store peppers, and they will last a good while sitting in a cool place on your counter. If you want peppers throughout the winter months, you can dry them or you can chop and parboil them and then freeze for later use.

Cucumbers:

Cucumbers can really be picked in any stage, depending on how you plan to use them. If you want small ones for pickling, don’t hesitate to pick them when they are 3-4” in size. Smaller cucumbers are more tender. They will also have a less bitter taste to their skin and way less seeds which makes them perfect for pickling.

Don’t let their size get out of control, however, because they will begin to become dry and have a wood-like texture. This means they will not be good for eating and would be better served raw right into the compost.

For longer life, pickling is the way to go. Look for my end of the summer pickling article for more on preserving your veggies in August.

Short-term, cukes will last for about a week in the refrigerator. I find the best way to store them is on the top shelf in a small bowl where they don’t collect too much moisture.

The best thing you can do for harvesting is to inspect your garden every day for ripened fruits and veggies, ones that might begin over-ripening or even rotting and glean those from your plants.

If you don’t have your own garden, no worries. These ideas

By now, if you’ve been maintaining a vegetable garden throughout the summer, it’s about time to harvest some of the fruits of your labor.

If you aren’t a seasoned gardener, then it’s safe to say you’ve got some questions about picking and even storing your bounty.

When should I pick my veggies?

Picking, and how you pick, depends on what you are growing.

Here is the short list of the how and when:

Tomatoes:

Tomatoes come in all shapes and sizes, and sometimes it can be hard to tell if they are ripe enough to pick if you don’t know what to look for.

It’s good to find out before you plant what their grow life can be, and what they will look like when they are ready to be picked. Large slicer tomatoes will take longer to ripen on the vine, and some heirloom varieties take even longer than Better Boys or Beefsteak tomatoes.

If you think your tomato is ready to be picked, test the ripest-looking one by giving it a gentle twist. If it pulls easily from the vine, it is ready.

Keep tomatoes in a cool place, outside of the refrigerator. They will last up to a week, that is, if you can keep from eating them.

If your plants are still fruiting up until frost time, go ahead and pick everything, even the green ones, about a week before the frost. You can wrap them individually in newspaper or store in paper bags to aid in ripening.

Or you can make fried green tomatoes!

Herbs:

Once your herbs have gotten about 12” tall, you can start by cutting or pinching them back frequently to encourage more production. This keeps them from blooming.

Keeping your plants from blooming is a good way to keep the flavor consistent, and extra herbs can be dried for future use or shared with friends.

Basil is a heat-loving plant, so it will thrive during the hotter months of the summer. This means you will need to cut it back constantly to keep it from flowering.

You can keep cut basil in water for up to a week in the kitchen for use. If you have an abundance of it, try mixing it in with some fresh flower arrangements or making a big batch of pesto you can freeze for later.

Lettuces and greens:

Lettuces and greens are cool weather plants, although they can grow in the heat, depending on the variety. It’s best to pick them before they bolt, which means before they develop a flower stalk that can make the flavor turn bitter.

Start by cutting the largest leaves first, and then come back later for smaller leaves that are younger and more tender. Lettuces and greens are referred as “cut and come again” plants because they keep growing as you harvest.

It’s best to use scissors for harvesting them, and cut only what you plan on eating immediately – a day or so if possible.

To keep your lettuces and greens going throughout the season, plant seeds every two or three weeks, and you’ll have lettuce enough until it gets too hot to grow. Try placing the plants in partial shade to keep plants from bolting in extreme heat.

You can start sowing seeds again once it cools down, and into the fall growing season.

There is no way to store lettuce or greens for the whole winter, but placing them in an aerated container with a paper towel in the fridge can help you keep them for a few days if need be.

Peppers:

Depending on the variety, peppers are ready to pick when they are green. The longer on the vine, the more their color can change – red, yellow, purple, etc.

Leaving them longer will deepen their flavor, but can aid them in loosing their crispness.

It’s true. The longer you leave a hot pepper on the vine, the hotter it gets. Depending on variety and how hot you want your peppers is when you’ll harvest them.

It’s easy to store peppers, and they will last a good while sitting in a cool place on your counter. If you want peppers throughout the winter months, you can dry them or you can chop and parboil them and then freeze for later use.

Cucumbers:

Cucumbers can really be picked in any stage, depending on how you plan to use them. If you want small ones for pickling, don’t hesitate to pick them when they are 3-4” in size. Smaller cucumbers are more tender. They will also have a less bitter taste to their skin and way less seeds which makes them perfect for pickling.

Don’t let their size get out of control, however, because they will begin to become dry and have a wood-like texture. This means they will not be good for eating and would be better served raw right into the compost.

For longer life, pickling is the way to go. Look for my end of the summer pickling article for more on preserving your veggies in August.

Short-term, cukes will last for about a week in the refrigerator. I find the best way to store them is on the top shelf in a small bowl where they don’t collect too much moisture.

The best thing you can do for harvesting is to inspect your garden every day for ripened fruits and veggies, ones that might begin over-ripening or even rotting and glean those from your plants.

If you don’t have your own garden, no worries. These ideas

by Stephen Gent, Owner
McDade’s Nursery

Stephen has 14+ years of experience in horticulture as Publisher and Marketing Director for Nursery Management and Production, Greenhouse Management and Production and Garden Center magazine.

An avid gardener with a lifelong passion for plants, he enjoys sharing his knowledge and experience with customers.

With daytime temperatures in the 90’s and above, your landscape and garden plants are under extreme stress. Here are a few simple tips to keep your yard looking its best during the summer heat.

Make sure you are watering on a regular basis. The recommendation is to water 2 – 3 times a week in the morning, if possible. Be sure to water long enough so the root system grows deep rather than staying close to the soil surface. To get water, fertilizer and oxygen deep into the root system use deep drip tree stakes.

Check your irrigation system for leaks, clogs or breakages to make sure water is getting to all areas in your lawns and beds.

Plants in hanging baskets or pots require more attention as they can dry out very quickly. We recommend using a soil that can hold more water. At the Nursery we carry Miracle Gro’s Moisture Control Soil that holds up to 25% more water than native soils and Soil Moist granules that release water into the soil. These products are especially helpful if you plan to be out on vacation or are a Weekender.

Remember to adjust the height of your lawn mower blade to allow your grass to grow taller during the summer months. A thicker turf will be protected from the heat and will require less watering.

Check your garden regularly for insects and fungi. Plants with heat stress are more prone to disease. If you find a problem, take care of it as soon as possible using a recommended insecticide or fungicide. Both organic and non-organic products are available to stop and protect against insects and fungi.

In the last few weeks our residents of Cedar Creek Lake are seeing high levels of pests and disease especially on trees and lawns. Brown patch and other types of fungus are very common on lawns during August. If you are unsure of the problem, bring in a sample twig or leaf to the Nursery and we’ll help you diagnose it and offer a solution.

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Published: July 25, 2012 11:33 AM

By THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

Photo credit: AP | Green living author Abigail Gehring hangs laundry outside her home in West Brattleboro, Vt. (July 8, 2012)

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Blog: Garden Detective

Think clotheslines are a relic of a bygone era, a time when our grandmothers slaved over their dainties with stiff birch-wood pins?

Think again. Hanging clothes is hot, due in no small part to the rising costs of, well, everything. Between soaring utility bills, concerns for the environment and a growing interest in traditional home arts, forgoing the dryer is the newest (oldest) way to tackle…

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* Keep your dog on a leash. No matter how well trained, any dog might see a rabbit or another dog and take off, ending up in traffic, getting into a fight or possibly injuring another animal or person. Some dogs are more powerful than others, and it doesn’t always depend on size. If your dog can pull you off balance, consider a different kind of collar and/or leash. Ask your vet or trainer to recommend one that will give you more control over your dog.

* Take different routes. Dogs can get bored too! Mix it up a little and take Max around a different block for a change. Or drive to a new area for your daily promenade. Dogs live for new smells, and they love exploring new territory.

* Bring a flashlight, when walking at night, it’s as important to be seen as to see what’s around you. Wear a reflective vest so drivers and other people walking can see you. There are also reflective leashes and collars available, as well as collar lights for your companion. Keep an eye out for sharp rocks and broken glass your dog could hurt himself on.

* Never get in the middle of a dog fight. This includes trying to pick up your dog if s/he is attacked by another dog. This would make you the object of attack as well. Many vets recommend citronella spray over pepper spray for stopping dog fights without doing serious damage. Don’t run. You will never be able to outrun a dog, and it will only escalate the attack behavior. Stay calm and, if possible, wedge something between the fighting dogs, but only if you are at a safe distance. After the fight, take your dog to the vet for a full examination and any necessary first aid.

* Don’t allow your dog to eat anything. Dogs don’t always know what’s best for them. Roadkill, garbage, fungus and animal droppings seem like a tasty snack to many dogs, but the chances of picking up a parasite are pretty high. This is another good reason to keep your dog on a leash. Be vigilant, and if your dog seems extra interested and won’t leave a certain spot alone, take a good look, and draw him away from anything questionable.

* Don’t force your dog to keep going. Older dogs, those with arthritis or hip dysplasia, and all dogs in the hot weather, need frequent breaks. Little dogs with short legs may be taking four steps to your one, so don’t necessarily go by how tired you are. Plan your route to include one or two shady spots where you can both rest and rehydrate.

* Don’t use strong insect repellent. The ingredients, especially DEET, in most insect repellent, can cause neurological damage to dogs. If insects are causing a problem for your dog, ask your vet for a healthy alternative.

So let’s all say the “w” word! WALK! Dogs need the exercise, the fresh air and a chance to explore. Just be prepared and stay vigilant, keeping your pal’s safety and well being in mind.

Judy DiForte is marketing manager and a professional dog walker and organizer for The Betty Brigade, an Ann Arbor-based full service personal assistance and concierge company, founded in 2003. Leave a comment here, or email her at judy@bettybrigade.com.

There are a few things you need to know, however, if you are new to delphiniums. They are sold as starts locally and while fall is the time Outside gardeners are advised to plant them, this columnist thinks anytime is ideal. In fact, if you see any for sale now, grab them. You can believe me and dip them in some mycorrhizal and plant them right away (assuming they have been hardened off) or you can believe Them — the Lower 48 folks — and just keep them watered and plant them in the fall.

Either way, these are plants that need soils with lots of organics. This is important to feed them, but also because organics-filled soils retain water and delphiniums do best if the soil they are grown in never dries out. Mulching with leaves will also help ensure the soil remains moist.

Delphinium plants tend to wind down over the years if they are not thinned out. They may not stop blooming, but the spires will get progressively shorter each year and the plants will seem stunted. Some gardeners thin them every year. Others literally divide clumps every three to five years instead.,

Alaskan delphiniums also have their own pest, the delphinium defoliator. This caterpillar attacks as soon as the first few leaves appear. Neem- or Bt-based products will get rid of them. Thrips are also a problem as they are attracted to white and blue, a popular delphinium color combo. Again, neem oil products seem to work. Blue sticky traps, too, would work, but probably need to go out before buds open. You can make your own with blue cardboard and light motor oil.

Some people have problems with slugs when they grow delphiniums. Slug baits are in order if you have problems, as is hand picking. When setting up your trapline, make sure to keep it outside the garden. Don’t attract slugs into the garden!

A constant call in my weekly gardening calendar is to stake delphiniums. These need it more than anything else on your property, unless you are growing peonies or tomatoes. This is because delphiniums have a hollow stem and the massive surface area created by the multitude of flowers that catches rain which weighs down the plant causing the stem to snap. It’s a sad sight. These hollow stems should be cut down to the crown of the plant after the first frost so they don’t fill with water and rot the plant.

As a result of having a hollow stem, many a delphinium has been sabotaged by a bad staking job. Instead of tying the plant to a stake, make a cage for the plant so nothing touches the stem. It’s best to do this early in the season and then make sure that all the plants are contained as they grow. It is also a good idea to try and not be too obvious. Use green yard tape, not red, and green supports, not tan ones. These are magnificent flowering spires you are displaying, not a caged animal.

You can start delphinium from seed. There are some fantastic colors, deep and light purples and blues, white, fringed and combos. The seeds are easy to start. They are not difficult. On the other hand, because they do so well, local nurseries carry mouthwatering selections.

Jeff Lowenfels is a member of the Garden Writers Hall of Fame. You can reach him at teamingwithmicrobes.com and hear him (and call in) on the Garden Party from 10 a.m.-noon on Saturdays on KBYR, 700 AM.

Garden calendar

Willow Garden Tour, Coyote Garden Tour: Saturday for both (call 495 6034 or 495-2080), Sunday for a second chance at Les Brake’s Coyote Garden (495-6525). Meet on Saturday at the Willow Community Center at 9:45 a.m. for maps, etc. Bring lunch. Have fun. See some fantastic gardens.

SNAP AND OTHER PEAS: START EATING.

BEETS AND CARROTS: THIN EVEN MORE.

RASPBERRIES: SHOULD BE ALMOST READY. DON’T LET THEM GO TO WASTE.

BUTTER AND EGGS: THEY ARE UP, GROWING AND GETTING READY TO FLOWER. GET ‘EM BEFORE THEY GET YOU. HAND PICK, HOE, ETC. NO POISONS.

HEARINGS TO SPRAY PESTICIDES: STATE AGENCIES SHOULD HAVE TO CONTINUE TO GO THROUGH A HEARING PROCESS BEFORE BEING ABLE TO SPRAY PESTICIDES AND HERBICIDES ON PUBLIC LANDS. THE GOVERNOR DOESN’T THINK SO. ALL ORGANIC GARDENERS NEED TO CONTACT DEC AND TELL THEM THIS IS A TERRIBLE IDEA. HTTP://DEC.ALASKA.GOV/

ALASKA BOTANICAL GARDEN: WEDNESDAY IS YOGA IN THE GARDEN. SEE ALASKABG.ORG FOR DETAILS.

During a dry summer, such as the one we are having, gardeners should ensure that they are watering their plants well enough.

You want water to reach all of the roots of your plant. In addition, you want to water the soil surrounding the root system, because dry soil around the roots acts like a sponge and can draw water away from the plant.

If your plant’s root system goes down 3 or 4 inches into the soil, you must get water down that far. If you have 2 inches of mulch on top of your soil, you need to make sure water gets through those 2 inches of mulch, as well as through the 4 inches of soil.

For established gardens, begin by setting the water source on low and directing the stream at the base of the plant until the area puddles up. Move on to another plant and then another, until all have been watered. Then, go back and water them all again. When you have completed that, hose down the rest of the bed, to keep it moist.

After you have watered enough, move some of the mulch away. You may be surprised to find that the soil is still dry and the water hasn’t gotten past the mulch.

Four more watering tips

These first three tips are from Linda Blyth of Tonawanda. You can see the gardens that she tends with her husband Brian at 939 Delaware Road on the Ken-Ton Garden Tour, which runs from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. July 21 and 22. Her garden is also on the Open Gardens of the National Garden Festival, and 2 – 6 p.m. Thursday, July 26 is the last day to see it.

Watering tip No. 1:
Bury pots in garden bed
Keeping plants in pots is a good way to prevent plants from spreading all over your garden. To cut down on watering, set the pots 2 – 4 inches into the soil. When you water, any excess water will drain into the garden bed and keep moisture at the roots of your plant.

Watering tip No. 2:
Line containers with plastic
When the weather is very warm, you may have to water your containers more than once per day. To cut down on watering, line containers with plastic shopping bags to help retain the moisture.

You still have to water regularly. The plastic bag plugs up drainage holes that can allow excess water to drip through. If you let your plants dry out and then attempt to fix them by drenching them, you will just be alternating under-watering with over-watering.

Watering tip No. 3:
Water the hole before you add a plant
This is a good tip whenever you are planting, but is especially important during the hot, dry weather we are experiencing now. When you dig the hole for your plant, water the hole before sinking the plant. Create a moat around the plant and fill it with compost or mulch and then water the moat.

Watering tip No. 4:
Make a slow-release irrigator
I found this tip on Pinterest®. The directions originated at the Provident Living website and you can view more photos there, as well as detailed instructions on how to make this irrigation dripper that is quick to fill, but releases water to the roots of your plants slowly.

Find a 2-liter pop or juice bottle, milk carton or other plastic container. Using a pocket knife or box cutter, make two small slits in the bottom of the bottle. Make two more small slits halfway up the container.

Fill the bottle with water to test it. If it empties too slowly, make bigger slits.

Dig a hole next to your plant and place the bottle mouth-side up. Cover it with dirt about 2/3 of the way up.

Fill the bottle with a hose.

The Provident Living site discussed how to regulate the water flow by screwing on the cap, creating an air hole and adding sand. It also discusses placing the bottle in the hole upside down and using it as a funnel.

Don’t miss:
The brand-new West Seneca Garden Walk will take place from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., July 21 and 22.

The West Seneca Garden Walk is being organized by Sharon and Dave Pulinski. They said they used to go on garden walks in other towns and ask each other, “Why doesn’t West Seneca have a garden walk?”

They began talking to neighbors about the idea last summer and got people interested. They now have 21 gardens registered for their debut event.

Visitors can pick up paper maps at Ebenezer Greenhouse, 1347 Union Road, West Seneca, or visit the Burchfield Nature and Art Center website. Also, check out the Upcoming Events Page at Buffalo-NiagaraGardening.com.

Connie Oswald Stofko is publisher of Buffalo-NiagaraGardening.com, the online gardening magazine for Western New York. Email Connie@BuffaloNiagaraGardening.com.

 

Once the busy spring and summer flower seasons ha ve passed, many nurseries and garden centers are still stocked up on garden enhancements, such as wrought iron decorations and pottery planters. Additionally, these items are often marked down to clear inventories for the next year. So, visiting the nurseries and garden centers often in the middle of the summer can be a great opportunity to fill spots in the home landscape that have not lived up to expectations.

Some great accessories include trellises, birdbaths, and larger pottery or plastic pots.

Trellises

Trellises are often made of wood or metal. They come in flat designs to aid vining plants to cover a wall space or obelisk shapes which can support a plant that is out in the center of a garden.

These decorative pieces can also act as focal points that can draw the eye to a certain point in the yard and help create height in a landscape that is otherwise low to the ground. Many types of plants benefit from trellises, including annuals like morning glories and perennials like climbing roses or wisteria.

Along the same lines, if you haven’t staked or caged tomato plants yet, now is the time before they grow any taller. Supporting the vegetable plants will keep them healthier and the fruit cleaner and more out of the reach of pests.

Birdbaths

With the above average summer heat this July, consider adding a little flair to the garden that will also help our feathered friends.  Birdbaths are a wonderful addition to a garden as a way of introducing a simple water feature to a space as well as providing a necessary life force to the many birds and insects living in the yard.

Also, watering, especially this summer has been more than necessary to keep plants adequately so keeping a birdbath fresh and clean shouldn’t add too much to the gardening chores. One thing to keep in mind, however, is that water that is allowed to stagnate will not be attractive to birds can be a breeding ground for mosquitoes. Be sure to change the water regularly.

Birdbaths come in all styles, prices, and materials. Consider that metal or stone birdbaths will resist the harsh advances of winter when that time comes and ceramic and pottery ones will need to be kept empty and safely stored from freezing temperatures.

Containers

The other reason to shop for garden decor now is to look for growth spurts, especially in houseplants that may be crying for a little more root room. Any of the plants that have been around for a while might benefit from a transplant to a larger container, and now while stock is on sale at many places it’s a great opportunity to prolong the plant’s life by giving them room to grow. 

Garden Decor Material

Always consider the material of garden decor. Metals will often rust or turn color and may need some sanding and painting treatment in the future. Wood that is natural or painted or stained will also weather and need some upkeep. Ceramic and stone is very durable but can crack and freeze if left out for the winter. Plastic is very lightweight and durable, but the prettiest and realistic-looking ceramic knockoffs can be as expensive as real pottery or cast iron. Choose what will work best for the landscape’s look and style, as keep in mind that everything has its pros and cons.

Garden decor can work double duty with the care and beautification of a garden or landscape. Don’t neglect these fun, often whimsical and functional aspects to gardening. These enhancements can be very affordable, require minimal maintenance and will make quite a splash to the landscape.

Information for this column was contributed by Volante Farms, 292 Forest St., Needham.

Looking for a great summer time activity for children, or a wonderful way for families to bond and spend time together in meaningful and relatively inexpensive activities? If so, gardening can be just the thing! It doesn’t matter if you have ever raised a garden before, how much space you have, where you live or even what age your children are.

To begin with, you’ll need to make some choices about your garden project. Do you want to plant a vegetable garden or a flower garden? Will you start with seeds or purchase plants already started? Of course, you could decide on a combination. Where will you plant your garden? Is there space in your backyard or in a nearby field? How much space you have will impact what and how much you plant but remember there are lots of options like raised bed gardens, and bag or pot gardens that make use of small areas like patios or balconies.

The bottom line is that gardens don’t have to be square or in a big area. Garden areas can be planted in a circle or triangle, in the backyard, in flower pots on the balcony or even in small corner areas around the outside of your house.

Once you’ve settled on a garden type, location and size, the next step is to work together to come up with a plan. Will you plants rows of vegetables? If so how many rows will you have and what types of vegetables do you want to produce. Are you planning to use flowers to add color around your yard? If so, does the area get a lot of sun or is it mostly shady? Are there specific colors you would like to focus on? Do you want something that blooms for a long season or do you want to combine different plants that bloom in different seasons?

The tools you need depend on the size and type of garden your family selects, but basic tools might include a rake, shovel, garden hoe, hand trowel, garden hose or watering cans. Many stores also carry these same tools in kid-size versions that are shorter and smaller – just right for a young child.

There are some special tips for gardening with young children helping to make it a good experience for everyone involved. Provide lots of options, like digging holes for plants or putting seeds in the trenches, so that everyone can be involved. Remember that young children look for instant gratification, so consider including radishes which grow quicker in your vegetable garden, or select flowers that will bloom this year. When caring for the garden, young children can enjoy weeding alongside the rest of the family but may have more trouble telling the weeds from the plants so consider having them weed and area with plants that do not look similar to the plants and don’t let an accidently pulled plant stress you out.

Gardening has all kinds of social, emotional, health and nutritional benefits including: spending time together; facilitating teamwork, cooperation and communication skills; increasing time spent outdoors in a natural environment; stress reduction; time spent learning together with family members, friends and/or neighbors; increased physical activity; promotion of adding more fruits and vegetables to the families diet; and experiencing accomplishments as a team. So, garden; it’s good for the whole family.

–by Theresa Silm, Michigan State University ExtensionThis article was published by MSU Extension. For more information, visit http://www.msue.msu.edu.

Many home gardeners may not immediately think of growing blueberries in the backyard, but this delicious and nutritious fruit is an ideal addition to a home landscape and will provide weeks of mid-summer treats.

At the Nursery

To have a successful blueberry crop, typically more than one type of cultivated blueberry plant is needed growing in the yard. It is a good idea if the flowering time of these plants overlaps, so don’t go for a very early and very late season crop, but rather one of these and at least one that is a main-season variety. This way they can be adequately pollinated and provide a strong stand of fruit.

Soil Requirements/Care

Blueberries prefer a fairly acid soil which is luckily very common in this area. Surprisingly, some gardens may even need to amend the soil with an acid fertilizer, such as Mir acid or Hollytone. Blueberry plants do prefer some initial preparation on the gardener’s part with a weed-free and mulched base and require a decent amount of water during their fruiting season.

Cultivation/Post Season

Young blueberry plants usually need three years of growth before fruiting to any great amount, so there is an investment of time, however many nurseries now sell adult plants that have been grown to maturity and are ready for fruit production.

After the fruiting season, blueberry bushes turn a vibrant red in the fall, with colorful foliage and even bright red branches after the leaves disappear, holding their color through the winter holidays.

In the late winter, blueberry bushes need a quick pruning to remove dead or damaged branches. Ideally, pruning creates an open plant with plenty of airflow and mostly vertical branches.

Deflecting Garden Visitors

There are plenty of pests to watch for with blueberry plants, but if caught in time they will do little harm. When leaves first bud out, winter moth caterpillars will find this a tasty home and can be treated with organic sprays. As the berries grow and ripen, they will become a favorite of many colorful birds. Feel free to share, but they will get most of the fruit unless a bird netting is placed over the plant. It is usually quite effective at deterring most birds, and relatively cheap and reusable. It only needs to be in place as berries begin to ripen until right after harvest, then it can be removed to absorb the beauty of the plant back into the garden.

The blueberry plant is not as common a choice among home gardeners as conventional vegetables, but with just a little time investment, a small blueberry patch can provide many weeks of this delicious fruit for the entire family to enjoy. They also provide a great visual enhancement to the landscape, even as fall turns to winter when most of the gardens are typically at rest.

Information for this column was contributed by Volante Farms, 292 Forest St., Needham, 781-444-2351, www.volantefarms.wordpress.com.