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I wouldn’t say that gardening ranks with commercial fishing and crocodile handling as one of the world’s most dangerous jobs, but there are some occupational hazards that can ruin our health or at least cause serious discomfort. And as with any pastime, we can worry our family by being cavalier risk-takers or set their minds at ease by being prudent precaution-takers instead.

Their and our No. 1 worry is the potentially fatal danger from exposure to the sun. It’s hard for a gardener to avoid the blaze altogether but disease prevention is a no-brainer. Wear a hat and slather on great gobs of sunscreen even on cloudy days to prevent sun damage that can become cancerous down the road. Don’t miss the ears, the back of the neck and that patch of skin on your back between your belt and riding-up shirt hem. And drink lots of water and seek shade and a chaise during the hottest parts of a high-summer day to prevent heat exhaustion and heat stroke, which is a real killer too.

Another hazard that can knock a strong gardener flat is Lyme disease. Of all the insects and arachnids in our region, deer ticks are the scariest for being deceptively tiny and packing a wallop of an angry round rash, flu-like symptoms and joint pain, headaches, facial paralysis and neurological problems if left untreated. And the treatment — a course, or several, of heavy-duty antibiotics — is no day at the beach either according to friends and colleagues who have gone through it. Full-body armor is needed to venture out in the sun and in any case, a total lack of energy nullifies any desire you might have to get off the couch.

To prevent Lyme disease, you can tuck your pants into your socks (not a good look), wear clothing impregnated with pesticides or spray them on your skin (such chemistry being another dangerous occupational hazard), and/or do a thorough tick-check after being in shady, woodsy, leaf-littery areas of the garden. (Deer ticks eschew full sun and anything lower than 90 percent humidity, so they aren’t likely to be on the zinnias.)

They range in size from a printed period, to poppy seed, to sesame seed but are only disease vectors at the poppy-seed nymph stage (spring, early-summer) and sesame-seed adult stage (fall into winter.) Wash with a loofa to dislodge hitchhikers and use tweezers to remove any that have embedded themselves. Don’t panic. It takes at least 24 hours for ticks to transmit the disease. Swab the bite (and the tick before removing it) with rubbing alcohol to disinfect the area, and as an extra precaution, apply a blob of topical antibiotic like Neosporin. One gardener I know who had Lyme disease four times has been disease-free for the last 10 years since he started putting antibiotic on anything he thought might be a bite.

As much as I hate wearing gloves while the weather is warm, they can save fingers and forearms the woes of contact dermatitis from poison ivy, thorn pricks, verbena sandpaper, caustic spurge (Euphorbia spp.) sap and nettle stings. The same is true of long trousers, socks and boots. Take it from one who knows: It’s worth trading one discomfort for the other.

Know your plant

Lastly, because I’m running out of space, I’ll just mention a couple of other common-sense risk avoidance strategies. Resist the urge to taste any plant you can’t positively identify as edible. Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) is one of the healthiest greens, high in omega-3s, but pokeweed (Phytolacca americana) in large quantities can kill you. (Both have succulent leaves and pinkish stems but are otherwise night-and-day different.) Maintain a healthy fear of the sharp edges of your tools; always use the right tool for the job (i.e. never deadhead the lavender with a chainsaw) and stay up to date with your tetanus shots.

All that said, the health benefits of gardening far outweigh the risks. And as long as we take care (I’m reminding myself, too), we’ll do ourselves more good than harm and can reasonably hope to be around to garden for a long time yet.

Kristin Green is the interpretive horticulturist at Blithewold Mansion, Gardens Arboretum in Bristol, where she’s worked since 2003. Follow her garden blog at http://blog.blithewold.org.

Winning tip: Mount Stewart House, County Down

You can’t beat a garden and tearoom combo to blow away the cobwebs at any time of year, and Mount Stewart House at Newtownards delivers. There are Spanish and Italianate gardens, a funky shamrock garden, 80 acres of woodland and the chance to see seals on Strangford Lough. And the tearoom? It makes its own ice-cream – a treat after all that healthy fresh air.
028-4278 8387, nationaltrust.org.uk/mount-stewart, adult £6.36, child £3.18
Arstar123

Kent

Sissinghurst Castle
There are 10 gardens here created in the 1930s on derelict land by two writers, Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicolson, around romantic, mellow pink brick Tudor buildings high on the Weald of Kent. What she called “rooms open to the sky” are intimate gardens, each with its own character, enclosed by old walls and hedges, each planted differently by colour or theme.
01580 710701, nationaltrust.org.uk/sissinghurst-castle, £10.40/£5
terryphilpot

London

Photograph: Richard Bryant/Bolton Quinn

Chiswick House Gardens
In the 1990s I used to walk Yogi, a joyful Bouvier des Flandres, in these gardens. Yogi is long gone, but the gardens are in better shape than ever after a £12.1m facelift courtesy of National Lottery funding. An artificial lake, classic bridge, cascade of waterfalls and even an Inigo Jones gateway are just some of the treasures hidden among the specimen trees and latticework of pathways in this early example of English landscape gardening.
Chiswick W4, 020-8742 3905, chgt.org.uk, gardens free, Chiswick House, £5.70/£3.40
Lizcleere

Cumbria

Brantwood Gardens, Coniston
The house was the home of John Ruskin for the last 20 years of his life. The gardens are set into the hillside, and give an insight into the mind of this great Victorian polymath. There are eight themed gardens, some radical (Dante’s Purgatorial Mount), some medicinal, others dedicated to ferns (more than 250). Having spent a few hours wandering around the gardens, (and house) you’ll get an appreciation of the troubled mind of Ruskin.
015394 41396, brantwood.org.uk, £6.30/£1.35
Moleycule

Northumberland

Photograph: Murdo MacLeod

Howick Hall Gardens, Alnwick
Read all the historic family gossip on the menu in the Earl Grey Tea House after you have seen the herbaceous borders, formal gardens, bog garden and woodland garden. Leave time for the Long Walk through woodland to the sea where, in the 1830s, Earl Grey sent each of his 15 children on the first full moon in the July after their 10th birthday. It is quite the most idyllic combination of formal and natural planting, wild sea and land, divine tea and scones.
01665 577285, howickhallgardens.org, £6.60/free
rojo23

Wiltshire

The Courts Garden, Holt, near Bradford-on-Avon
Take a stroll around the kitchen gardens, wildlife areas and arboretums all planted with stunning flowers and shrubs. I have been to most National Trust gardens and this classic early-20th-century one is my favourite. After a perfect meal in the lovely tearoom take a short signposted walk across nearby scenic fields to Great Chalfield Manor, another gem.
01225 782875, nationaltrust.org.uk/courts-garden, £6.10/£3.05
Chrisbocci

Gloucestershire

Photograph: Alamy

Westbury Court Garden, Westbury-on-Severn
This unique and exquisite 17th-century Dutch water garden, with canals and ponds full of water lilies and lawns bordered by attractive topiary, is best seen from the first floor of the summer house at the far end. A walk takes you to herb and vegetable plots and a stunning display of very old espaliers. There are no cafe facilities but picnics on the lawns are encouraged.
01452 760461, nationaltrust.org.uk/westbury-court-garden, £4.85/£2.35
Jenandbrian

Aberdeenshire

Pitmedden Garden, Ellon
The garden was created in the 17th century by Sir Alexander Seton. A weather vane commemorates an incident near Aberdeen, where his father was killed by a cannonball. Now, all is peaceful. Be soothed by formal parterres and rows of clipped yews. Stand by the sundial and listen to oystercatchers. Stroll past pleached limes and the herb garden to find the Museum of Farming Life.
0844 493 2177, nts.org.uk/property/pitmedden-garden, £6/free
busylizzie51

Carmarthenshire

Aberglasney Gardens, Llangathen
Tucked away in the hills, these gardens took seed some 500 years ago. Much history and several lost fortunes later the gardens (they were derelict in 1995), have been restored to their original design. With an ancient yew tunnel, areas including a cloister garden and a walled garden, plus lovely walks, time passes all too quickly. The licensed tearoom serves excellent light lunches and teas. There are plants for sale, too, so you can take home a living memento of your visit.
01558 668998, aberglasney.org, £7.27/£3.63
robynmary

Monmouthshire

Dewstow House and hidden gardens, Caldicot
Begin by watching the eight-minute film screened in the bright cafe at the entrance. You learn that these Grade I-listed Edwardian gardens, filled in in the 1940s, remained lost, even in local memory, until 2000, when a new owner began excavating. Then wander through the gardens, finding lakes, fountains, a bog garden, horticultural surprises at every turn, even a croquet lawn. Most amazing are the subterranean grottoes, ferny and mossy, with tiny streams and little niches. The plant sale is good, parking is free, and the welcome is great.
01291 431020, dewstowgardens.co.uk, £6.50/£4
jenandbrian

The Austin Home Garden Show has been managing trade shows catered to do-it-yourself enthusiasts — from amateur to professional — for over three decades.

This year’s 17th annual Austin event, held at the Austin Convention Center from August 17 through August 19, has a large impact on the local home and garden industry. Statistics released by Show Technology reveals that 82% of attendees will redecorate their home using contractors from the show, while 87% of attendees will spend money on landscaping services and supplies with contractors from the show.

“Austin is very educated,” says Pamela Rogers, the director of corporate sales with Show Technology. “Austinites typically come to the show prepared with shopping lists; they know what they want.”

On Sunday, CultureMap was able to sit down for an interview with Ahmed Hassan, landscaping expert and television host of DIY Network’s Yard Crashers. We asked him about his experiences and how Austinites can apply his tips to their challenges in coping with drought conditions and heat, while trying to maintain a healthy lawn and garden.

 “We all have a paradigm, seeing expansive green grass outside of a house — we cannot do that anymore because of water scarcity! I am not crazy about synthetic lawns, but if you have landscaping around it, it can work.” – Ahmed Hassan 

CultureMap: Tell me briefly about your background in landscape design.

Ahmed Hassan: I’ve basically been working since I was 10 years old. My dad was in landscaping, I emulated him. I was having fun creating with my hands, landscaping allowed me, as a kid, to be around dirt, equipment and have fun.

CM: When did you film the first episode of Yard Crashers?

AH: In 2008.

CM: On to Austin — have you ever been here before?

AH: Yes, we were here last year and shot an HGTV episode.

CM: Do you have any favorite ‘spots’ in Austin? If not, do you have a particular venue/attraction in town that you are planning to frequent?

AH: Not really, when I am part of the [Home Garden Show], I tend to stay in the hotel and relax. I did get to Wholly Cow. I’m a vegetarian but I am starting to add a little red meat to my diet to boost my iron content. I’d like to come to Austin again, maybe January or February.

CM: Austin is hot and dry! What specific recommendations do you have for Austin gardeners and wanna-be gardeners to put into action so that their plants/grass will thrive and not wilt in our heat?

AH: We all have a paradigm, seeing expansive green grass outside of a house — we cannot do that anymore because of water scarcity! There is a paradigm shift. I am not crazy about synthetic lawns, but if you have landscaping around it, it can work.

CM: If someone was selling their home, how much money would you suggest, percentage-wise, they spend on landscaping?

AH: Realtors might suggest a price, but it really depends… what is your budget and how much do you want to spend? Are you looking to sell your home in a short amount of time? I do recommend an automatic irrigation system and affordable landscaping to add ‘curb appeal’ to your home.

CM: Thank you for your time this morning, good luck with your future plans!

AH: It is a pleasure, now I’m off to a question and answer session on xeriscaping.

Written by Laurie Nigro

I’m allergic to gardening.

I know — that sounds a little crazy coming from a woman who helped found a community garden and a lot like a hypochondriac. I mean, who’s allergic to gardening? What does that even mean? Well, my skin reacts badly to working in the garden. When the pollen from most plants coats my skin, I immediately start to itch. I break out in little raised, red bumps. When combined with the sweat that usually accompanies gardening, it feels like I’ve been attacked by mosquitoes and then rolled in salt. And I know I’m not alone. Some of the most seasoned gardeners I know complain, albeit less so, about a similar sensation.

Perhaps calling it an allergy is a little over the top. The rash usually clears up after I’ve washed off the offending irritant. I suppose calling it a sensitivity is more accurate. My husband would tell you it’s because I have Irish potato skin. He made up that term, but I’ve begun to think its not too far off. I’m generally pale as a potato and my skin is just as easily damaged. I am often credited with passing this incredibly sensitive skin onto my children. As a toddler, my son was allergic to changes in the barometric pressure. No, really. When a storm came through, he would break out from head to toe with a bumpy, itchy red rash that he would scratch until it bled. And I couldn’t do anything to prevent it. My daughter’s skin was nearly as bad. My friends got sick of picking up the phone and hearing, “I think the kids have chicken pox. They’re covered in a rash.” As did my pediatrician who had to come out to the parking lot to examine the rash, in case it was chicken pox. It never was. It must have been the Irish potato skin, or contact dermatitis.

According to the Mayo Clinic, contact dermatitis is a kind of skin inflammation that occurs when substances touching your skin cause irritation or an allergic reaction. The resulting red, itchy rash isn’t contagious or life-threatening, but it can be very uncomfortable. Irritants can include soaps, detergents, fragrances and plants. Sometimes, a wet compress can be helpful in reducing the inflammation and itching. Topical steroid creams and lotions were often recommended for my children. I don’t like to put things on the skin without reason. Our skin is our largest organ and whatever we rub in or spray on inevitably ends up in our system. According to the National Psoriasis Foundation, potential side effects of topical steroid use include “skin damage, such as skin thinning, changes in pigmentation, easy bruising, stretch marks, redness and dilated surface blood vessels. Steroids can be absorbed through the skin and affect internal organs when applied to widespread areas of skin, used over long periods of time, or used with excessive occlusion.” My kids were uncomfortable, but did I think the benefit of these medications outweighed the risks? I wasn’t confident they did so I researched my options, as I am known to do, and found some alternatives to topical steroid creams like cortisone.

One of my favorite treatment options for an itchy, irritable child has to be a good old oatmeal bath. Of course, it’s a tremendous mess. But an oatmeal bath serves more than one purpose; if the water temperature is kept on the cool side, the oatmeal itself does a nice job of soothing irritated skin, and the bath is a great distraction for a grumpy, uncomfortable child. They can while away quite a bit of time sailing toy boats through their homemade, chunky sea.

Of course, the best choice is to avoid the irritants in the first place, but that’s not always possible. Several years back, I found a homeopathic cream manufactured by Boericke and Tafel called Florasone that helps ease the discomfort of rashes and bites. Homeopathic remedies have no side effects and are a great option for mild dermatitis. Florasone is widely available online.

As I age, my skin is also becoming drier which increases my need for a topical solution. I wanted to use a mild cream everyday but after reading several ingredient lists, I became discouraged and started making my own. This recipe is a little more labor-intensive than most I offer, but it’s really just so fabulous that it’s worth the effort. It’s quite soothing to irritated skin and my children often seek it out when the potato skin acts up. I adapted this recipe from Rosemary Gladstar’s Family Herbal.

Ingredients

Waters:
⅔ c. calendula tea (boil water and steep ¼ cup dried calendula leaves), cooled
⅓ c. aloe vera gel
⅛- ¼ tsp. vitamin E

Oils:
¾ c. grapeseed oil
⅓ c. coconut oil
½ – ⅔ oz. beeswax (depending on desired consistency)

Combine the waters in a glass measuring cup. Set aside. In a double boiler over low heat, combine the oils. Heat them just enough to melt. Pour the oils into a blender and let them cool to room temperature. The mixture should become thick, creamy, semi-solid, and cream colored. When the mixture is cool, turn on the blender at its highest speed. In a slow, thin drizzle, pour the water mixture into the center vortex of the whirling oil mixture. When most of the water mixture has been added, listen to the blender and watch the cream. When the blender coughs and chokes and the cream looks thick and white like frosting, turn off the blender. Pour into glass cream or lotion jars (jelly jars are an excellent choice). Store in a cool location.

What do you do to fight the itch? Let me know at laurie@riverheadlocal.com.

 

Laurie Nigro, a mother of two, is passionate about natural living. Laurie resides in downtown Riverhead and is co-founder of the River and Roots Community Garden on West Main Street. 

 

 

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Tips to help you in the garden and around the house during the late summer days:

• If your tomato blossoms drop but no fruit forms, temperatures are likely too warm. Try a “heat set” tomato for next year’s crop. If you see dark spots and brown scars developing, make sure you’re watering consistently.

• If your flowers are looking uninspired by now, try adding one of our six favorite plants — from purple Alternanthera to red and green Coleus — for late-summer color.

• Grass is a natural air conditioner in summer months, at 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, even when sidewalks and streets are as hot as 100 degrees. It’s a good idea to let your grass go dormant during dry summer periods instead of watering regularly. Your yard will green up again in the fall; for now, use water resources for new plantings, old trees and vegetable gardens or for newly divided perennials.

• If you have heavy pots or planters on a wooden deck, slip decorative “feet” underneath to keep them off the wood. This way, excess water will dry off instead of seeping in.

• Every few months, walk along your fence and shake it for signs of instability. Repair, reinforce or replace damaged portions. Check the finish or if unpainted, clean with a wood soap product. Remove plants creeping up the wood so they don’t pull fence posts apart.

• Check your home for gaps and cracks where cool air can escape, such as attic doors, baseboards and old weather stripping.

• If you have a wood-burning stove it’s not too early to order wood now. The extra time will make your wood perfectly seasoned for the cold months ahead. Just be sure to keep it somewhere dry with plenty of ventilation.

Good morning! Well, you can certainly tell that summer is winding down. The weeds and wildflowers are in their glory along roadsides, blueberries are everywhere and the blackberries are ripe. Kids are thinking about backpacks and, if you are like me, you have more gardening to do than you want to think about. July was busy and my garden was neglected, hence all the work waiting. Oh well, the garden will go on.

August also tends to be a month when odd problems crop up in the garden. Mildew on garden phlox, blackspot on roses and a general malaise on everything that has bloomed and passed. The weather hasn’t helped. Drought, downpours and much higher humidity than usual have created issues, if my email is any indication.

High temperatures for long periods of time with just occasional thunderstorms do not make for a happy garden. And watering just doesn’t have the same effect as a good drenching rain. I also know that many of you water with overhead sprinklers. When your flowers are subjected to uneven water levels and high temperatures, this weakens them. Add in humidity, plus the fact your plant leaves are wet from sprinklers, and you have a perfect storm for fungal diseases.

Perennials in Maine, thankfully, are usually pretty healthy and don’t develop many of the plant diseases found in other parts of the country. Usually good air circulation in the garden, steady rainfall and our cool nights contribute to an overall healthy garden. But this summer’s drought and humidity have heightened  fungal problems.

August is when garden phlox is in its glory — and it is gorgeous. Unfortunately, it is also prone to powdery mildew, a fungal infestation. Roses are susceptible to blackspot, also caused by fungus, especially when using their energy to flower.

You need to identify common fungal diseases, which will spread to other plants in the garden, so you can treat them. Today, we are going to deal with powdery mildew, blackspot, leaf spot on hydrangeas and peony leaf blotch, which ran rampant in spring 2011 but hasn’t raised its ugly head much this year. Who knows why.

Powdery mildew is just that, a fungal disease that makes plant leaves and stems look as though they’ve been dusted with powder. The mildew won’t affect the flowering and it won’t kill the plant, but it does weaken and make it look ugly. It will spread to other plants, although many are resistant. Powdery mildew begins on garden phlox. (You can buy new hybridized plants, such as David and Volcano, that have been bred to be resistant.)

Even though you see powdery mildew in August, it actually begins long before. So if you have plants that get powdery mildew every year, you need to start treating them when the growing season begins.

You can buy a fungicide specifically for powdery mildew or make one. Add 1 teaspoon of baking soda to1 liter of water, shake and spray. Use this about every two weeks and keep the plants well watered at ground level. Because the spores that cause powdery mildew overwinter in the soil, you need to spray the ground around the plants as well as the leaves and stems.

Blackspot is exactly what you’d think — a black spot on the rose leaf. It may start off yellow or brown but will turn black and spread. You can remove a few infected leaves; however, if it is widespread, you will need to treat the bush. Always water roses in the morning, water them at ground level (not overhead) and keep them well watered. There are many commercial sprays for blackspot or you can make your own. Put 3 teaspoons of baking soda, a few drops of dish soap or liquid hand soap and a heaping teaspoon of water soluble fertilizer into a cup of water and shake. Add this to 1 gallon of water in a sprayer and spray every two weeks. This works on both blackspot and mildew on roses. You should start this in early spring and continue throughout the growing season.

Leaf spot on hydrangeas is easily identified as spots of purple, brown or tan. They  usually show up later in the season. It will not harm the plant, but if you want to, you can remove the infected leaves or treat it with a fungicide.

Peony leaf blotch is caused largely by lack of air circulation around the plants. If you planted three or four small bushes 15 years ago, they are probably crowded now and don’t get good air flow. Peony leaf blotch starts in early spring as a small, shiny usually purple spot on the top of the leaf with brown spots on the underside. It progresses depending on humidity and heat levels. Take off individual leaves, water from the ground only and treat peonies with the homemade formula for roses or a purchased fungicide. If it is late in the season, simply cut the infected branches to the ground.

In all of these cases, there are a few things to keep in mind. Fungus comes from a spore and spreads through spores. Spores travel in water so if you use an overhead sprinkler (or when it rains), water drops fall onto the fungus and splash spores onto other leaves. For plants with fungus, cut them to the ground in the fall; clean up stems, dead leaves and other debris from the area; and dispose of the clippings in the trash, not in a compost pile where the fungus will live and spread. Cut out any stems on roses that show signs of infection early in the spring and begin the required treatments.

There is always the option of removing plants that are prone to fungal diseases, but I have a hard time doing that. If you don’t, rip away and plant something new.

Until next time, watch for fireflies, picnic by a shady stream and enjoy those flowers you work so hard to make pretty.

Happy gardening.

Jody Goodwin has been gardening for more than 25 years. She lives in Turner with her husband, Ike, and two cats. She may be reached by writing to her in care of the Sun Journal, 104 Park St., Lewiston, Maine, 04243-4400 or by e-mail at jodyike@megalink.net.

At this time of year, many homeowners are busy outside tending their lawns and gardens. However, trees and shrubs may also need some special care to maintain a pleasing shape and stay healthy-looking. Knowing a few basic tips about tree and shrub pruning practices can help homeowners achieve a more beautiful landscape.

Pruning is a maintenance practice that can be beneficial to a woody landscape plant when properly performed. However, some knowledge about the growth habit of a tree or shrub as well as how and when to prune are essential to avoid “butchering” its appearance. For example, tree and shrubs should be pruned at an early age rather than waiting until a plant is overgrown.

Keeping a tree or shrub’s size and shape under control from the start is much better to both its health and aesthetic appearance. In essence, a well-done pruning job maintains a plant’s natural shape, while the necessary removal of dead or diseased branches or other undesirable growth is performed.

Using the proper equipment is also necessary to achieve optimum results while pruning. At a minimum, a homeowner should own a set of hand-held pruning shears, a long-handled lopping shears, a hedge shears and a pruning saw. Although expensive, a pole saw or loppers is also very useful for pruning tree branches safely from the ground. With this assortment of tools, a homeowner can tackle almost any pruning job he or she may encounter except for large limbs or tall trees. It’s also important to keep pruning equipment sharp to make smooth cuts that encourage rapid healing.

In regards to safety, it’s advisable to let a professional tree company prune tall trees or large diameter tree branches. These people have the skills and equipment to do the job properly and safely. Pruning limbs near electrical wires is another dangerous situation that may require expert help from a utility or tree service company.

Proper pruning also required knowledge of the growth habit of a particular tree or shrub for best results. For example, for spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, wait until after the shrub flowers in the spring before pruning. This will avoid removing flower buds that would reduce your enjoyment of its beauty that spring. Another common mistake made by homeowner is to prune hedges such as privet or yew leaving the bottom of the hedge narrower than the top. It’s actually better to keep the top trimmed back narrower than the bottom branches. This allows more sunlight to penetrate and avoids the bottom half of the hedge from becoming too shaded and causing the density of the foliage to thin out.

• When is the best time to prune a tree or shrub? Probably the best time from the standpoint of the health of a plant is to prune in late winter or early spring just before new growth resumes for the year. However, there are exceptions depending on when a plant flowers or other characteristics (such as sap “bleeding” on maples) that may require pruning at other times of the year. In contrast, the least desirable time to prune a woody landscape plant is in the early summer immediately after new growth as developed. A homeowner should be able to choose a time to prune his or her trees and shrubs within these guidelines state above.
• Here are some other pruning tips offered by Michigan State University (MSU) Extension:
• When pruning trees and many shrubs, always make the cut near to where the branch originates on the trunk or main limb; never leave a stub. The exception to this, of course, is with pruning hedges which require a definitive shape.
• Always remove dead, diseased or insect-infected branches first, followed by branches that are rubbing against one another. Also try and remove as many of the branches that are growing back into the center of the tree or shrub as possible. These branches will ultimately cross and rub against others.
• Use the three-cut method for removing tree branches over one inch in diameter to avoid tearing the bark. By following this method, the weight of the branch is eliminated first before the final cut close to the trunk or limb is made.
• Research has shown that the use of pruning paints are mainly cosmetic and are therefore optional to use. Homeowners may wish to seal large pruning cuts (more than two inches in diameter) only if the use of pruning paint helps blend the cut surface in the with the natural color of the bark.

Trees and shrubs help make a home more attractive and add value to your property. Proper maintenance, including occasional pruning, is necessary to keep plants thriving and helps to maintain their value and enjoyment to the homeowner.

— by Russell Kidd, Michigan State University Extension. This article was published by MSU Extension. For more information, visit http://www.msue.msu.edu. To contact an expert in your area, visit http://expert.msue.msu.edu, or call 888-MSUE4MI (888-678-3464).

Last week I talked about handling your potted outdoor plants, and I was planning to give some information about watering shrubbery and lawns. I ran out of space. At that time we had not had any rain for a very long time, and the topic was very apropos. Now, even though we have had a lot of rain, some of it really was good, I think that we need to cover the topic, anyway. Remember, we are in August — and anything can still happen.

What interested me most was how people were watering. In one instance I saw someone putting a quart of water on each of her tomato plants. Totally wrong! In such dry conditions, this is the worst thing you can do to a plant or a lawn. When you water, water heavily. Water deep. You see, the roots of most plants go downward, unless they have to go toward the soil to get water. If you water only the top 3 or 4 inches of the soil, those roots will reach for it. The lower roots will wither and die. Then, when the soil dries for any period of time, if we have a couple of rainless weeks, those top roots will die and the plant will have none to get water into the plant. So, when you water, depending on the size of the plant, give it enough to reach those lower roots. Do not allow the plants to dry out between watering because it will become harder and harder for the new supply of water to reach those roots.

Remember to deadhead your flowers (deadhead: to remove dead and dying flowers from a plant before they go to seed). It is important to remove flowers, especially from plants such as roses and lilies, at this time of year because they are so unsightly and because as the seed pod matures, it will take energy away from the lily bulb or the rose bush. That energy would normally be used to make the plant better next year. And in plants like geraniums and marigolds, seed production takes energy from flower production. I think that a geranium just does not look good when it has a lot of dead or dying blooms. Remember that when you remove the flower, reach down the flower stem and try to snap it off where it meets a larger stem, at the axil.

Fertilizing will still benefit some of your plants. A light application on annuals and perennials will keep them growing for the next few weeks and producing more blooms. Remember, too, that you will be bringing some of those herbs into the house before the first frost, so keep them well-fed and well-watered. If you have some seeds left over from your spring planting, now would be the time to sow them. In a few weeks you will have some flavorful leaves to perk up that salad made from those bland Mexican tomatoes. If you have any spring seed catalogs left, look for a packet of small-leafed basil; there are several varieties. They grow quickly and are more easily manageable, easier to trim and just as delicious. I particularly like two varieties: Christmas and boxwood. See if you can locate the seeds.

As we begin to wind down our summer, start thinking about garden cleanup. Begin raking the flower beds; snails and bugs live in that trash. Raking and cleaning is your first line of defense to get rid of these critters.

Remember, though, there is a whole lot of summer left. Enjoy your gardens. And your neighbor’s, too.

Since my granddaughter could walk, she has enjoyed strolling through the garden with me between the tall hollyhocks and under the clematis-covered arch. By 3 she could identify marigolds, daisies and her favorites, Johnny jump-ups.

So a year ago, I put her to work picking peas. After that, every time she visited, she wanted to pick vegetables. It was difficult to explain to a 4-year-old the green tomatoes weren’t ready to pick. But now as a 5-year-old, she understands how to look for the ripe tomatoes, mature cucumbers and is ready to dig up beets.

Here are some tips on harvesting the vegetables from your garden, with or without little helpers:

Green beans: Pick when firm and when they “snap” when bent in half. Left too long, beans become yellowy-green and soft.

Beets: Dig using a pitch fork when the shoulders show through the soil. Smaller beets are tender and flavorful.

Broccoli: Mature when heads are dark green, 6 inches in diameter with tight buds. After picking, side shoots produce other heads.

Carrots: Dig using a garden fork when leafy head is dark green, about an inch in diameter, depending on the variety. Plant a fall crop, cover with mulch as cold weather sets in and harvest during the winter.

Corn: Mature when silk turns brown and top kernels are milky when squeezed.

Cucumbers: Pick when dark green and the size described on the seed package. Salad cucumbers are 6 to 8 inches long, while cucumbers for dill pickles are 5 to 6 inches long. Lemon cucumbers are 4 inches round and yellow. Keep mature cucumbers picked, so vine continues to produce.

Lettuce: Pick outer leaf lettuce leaves when 6 inches long. Head lettuces will be firm. All lettuces should be picked before flower stalks appear.

Onions: Dig using a pitch fork when tops fall over. Lay out in sun to dry and form a skin. Store in a cool, dry place.

Peas: Harvest snow peas when bright green and still flat. Pick regular peas when seeds (peas) are round. Overly mature peas turn yellow.

Peppers: Jalapeños are dark green and 2 inches long when mature. Hot peppers turn bright red. Sweet green peppers are firm when mature and if left on the plant, turn red.

Pumpkins: Harvest after the vine withers and pumpkin is dark orange. The rind will be hard.

Radishes: Harvest when an inch in diameter or when they become very woody. Like beets, their shoulders show above the soil.

Spinach: When leaves are 4 to 6 inches long, cut off at base of plant. Do not pull up plant. Left in the ground, more leaves will appear for another harvest.

Summer squash: Pick when 6 to 8 inches long to keep plant producing.

Many vegetables have a prime time for picking. Typically I wait a day too long and have boat-size zucchini and seedy cucumbers. That’s when an eager granddaughter is very helpful.

Colorado State University Extension in the City and County of Broomfield provides unbiased, research-based information about 4-H youth development, family and consumer issues, gardening, horticulture and natural resources. As part of a nationwide system, Extension brings the research and resources of the university to the community. The Broomfield County Extension office is at 1 DesCombes Drive, Broomfield, 80020. For information, call 720-887-2286.