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Local photographer offers tips to Four Season Garden Club

John Bamber with the Four Seasons Garden Club

John Bamber with the Four Seasons Garden Club

Local photographer John Bamber explains smartphone techniques to Four Seasons Garden Club members during their April meeting.



Posted: Tuesday, April 22, 2014 1:22 pm
|


Updated: 1:26 pm, Tue Apr 22, 2014.

Local photographer offers tips to Four Season Garden Club

With a program entitled “Nature Photography: Photographing Birds, Bees and Butterflies and Goodbye Digital Camera, Hello Smartphone” local professional photographer John Bamber held the attention of the Four Seasons Garden Club on Tuesday, April 8, as he shared his knowledge about the latest technology in his field. Fourteen club members and two guests, most holding smartphones or other cameras, gathered around the garden area in front of the Rhea County Courthouse where the club maintains the plantings. He explained features of the cameras and used tulips that happened to be in bloom to show various shooting techniques. Some of his tips follow:


• Remember that the camera is not in the center of the phone’s back but in the upper left corner, along with the flash and exposure sensor. The camera can be used even when the phone is in lock mode by swiping up on the camera icon on the screen. The phone’s volume up button is the point and shoot button for the camera.

• A square appears in the view screen where the camera will automatically focus; to change the focal point put a finger on another area. There is a tic-tac-toe square grid available for use in composing the shot and aligning horizontals or verticals. The most interesting picture composition uses the “rule of thirds,” placing the subject near the intersection of two grid lines, not in the center, thus causing the eye to move around the image.

• There are edit buttons used to crop, adjust red-eye and auto-enhance the image. There are also filter effects which can be applied either at the time of shooting or afterwards. In HDR (High Dynamic Range) setting, the camera makes three exposures simultaneously and merges them, resulting in better detail in a high contrast scene.

• For wide angle shots hold the phone horizontally. Panorama mode allows the photographer to pan up to 240º around a scene and include the entire area in a single image. Macro, or close-up, mode is ideal for photographing flowers, as Bamber demonstrated by shooting the tulips. When using macro be aware of the background and emphasize the subject by keeping the background out of focus.

• Remember to Save!

Bamber also demonstrated shooting with a “traditional” digital camera which, although not quite as convenient, provides better photo quality, especially in low light situations, because the sensor is larger — reading more detail.

By using the display screen rather than the view finder on a traditional camera, unusual shots can be achieved by positioning the camera on the ground or other support; the photographer can frame the subject without needing to hold the camera near the face.

For extra convenience an Eye-Fi SD storage card can transfer photos wirelessly from the camera to a computer, phone or tablet. The AirDrop app from Apple allows wireless sharing of photos with other phones or iPads nearby.

When the photographers lost the late afternoon light everyone regrouped at Cafe Pascal where Bamber continued his instruction. On his iPad, he showed images of tulips which he had just photographed minutes earlier and transferred via EyeFi. He encouraged everyone to take the time to experiment, try unusual angles, learn from mistakes and have fun. He recommended Instagram as a good social site for the garden club to share photos — it allows for a closed group, if desired.

Reliable print labs include Millers Professional Imaging (mpix.com) and Apple (order directly from iPhoto on the Mac). Bamber has a fondness for traditional film photography and prints and said that a carefully handprinted black and white print will outlast any other print.

Bamber received hearty applause for sharing his expertise with Four Seasons. An assortment of Pascal’s delicious desserts and a brief business meeting brought the evening to a close.

Hostesses for the meeting were Linda Blevins, Kathy Griffin, Katie Trotter and Faith Young.

on

Tuesday, April 22, 2014 1:22 pm.

Updated: 1:26 pm.

Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden

Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden

Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden

Hispanic mother and son gardening



Posted: Sunday, April 20, 2014 11:00 pm
|


Updated: 1:13 pm, Tue Apr 22, 2014.

Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden


0 comments

(Family Features) The benefits of having your own backyard vegetable garden are plentiful, and can include significant lifestyle impacts, such as healthier eating habits, money saving perks and more.


A Relaxing, Healthful Hobby

Looking for a hobby that allows you to contribute to the health of your family? Take up gardening. Beyond producing nutritious foods, it can help you teach your family about local agriculture, all while basking in the tranquility of the great outdoors. Though starting your own home garden can be intimidating, there are a few simple steps to get you started. Once developed, it can yield fruits and vegetables from early spring and into the fall.

1) Do Some Research

Find out what vegetables grow best in your area and when is the right time to plant and harvest. Many local university extension programs have this information readily available online. For each plant, consider the amount of water needed, how much sunlight is required and if it should be started from seed or a transplanted seedling.

2) Choose a Good Spot

Keep in mind vegetables need at least six hours of sun each day, so plant away from the shade of buildings, trees and shrubs. Planting close to your house may make you more likely to bring your harvest right into your kitchen, and will help you remember to weed and water. Including rain and irrigation, your garden needs at least one inch of water per week. Make sure you can easily access a water supply nearby. Some products, such as an Ames NeverLeak hose reel, provide convenient hose storage and can easily reach all parts of your yard. Be sure to choose a level area of your yard so when watering it will not pool in lower areas.

3) Clear the Area

Use your garden hose or a string to mark the area for proper placement of your garden. Use a sod lifter or garden spade, keeping the area level and removing as little topsoil as possible. Next, use a round point shovel, such as the True Temper True American Round-Point Shovel, to dig into the soil about 12 inches, breaking it up and removing clumps. To encourage proper drainage and escape light freezes in early spring and fall, construct a raised bed by creating a border with wood slats and filling in with soil. 

4) Prepare the Soil

Use a rake to create a smooth finish and remove debris or stones on the surface. You may want to add manure, compost or soil additives to provide additional nutrients in the soil.

5) Plant Your Seeds

Determine if you will be starting your plants from seeds or transplanting small seedlings. Be sure to research how much room each plant will need and plot the layout of your garden. Dig V-shaped furrows using a warren hoe or the edge of a garden hoe. Carefully distribute the seeds in the furrows evenly and in accordance with the instructions on the seed packet. Cover the seeds and pat down gently, then water thoroughly. 

Use this information for a fruitful harvest this gardening season. For more tips, visit www.AmesTrueTemper.com or www.Facebook.com/TrueTemperTools.

Photo courtesy of Getty Images (Mother and Son)

© 2014 Idaho State Journal. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

on

Sunday, April 20, 2014 11:00 pm.

Updated: 1:13 pm.

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Home & Garden: Tips for planting trees in Colorado’s Grand Valley

Trees that develop roots on the surface of the soil can be a major nuisance, especially when they are growing in the lawn. These roots make it very difficult to mow the lawn let alone walk across the it without tripping.

The shallow development of roots is partly genetic, but is mostly due to the oxygen and moisture content of the soil. When the soil oxygen level is insufficient, roots tend to develop closer to the surface than they otherwise would. This problem can be aggravated by watering too often and not giving air sufficient time to move back into the soil.

When a tree is planted it is often “guyed” by driving T-posts into the soil next to the tree, placing a wide nylon strap around the trunk and holding it in place with wire attached to the T-post. The purpose of guying a tree is to keep the root ball from moving. The trunk of the tree must move in order to develop diameter and taper guys should not be needed to keep the tree upright; if the tree is too weak to stand up by itself, it should not be planted. If you use the T-posts and guy technique, these should be removed within one year. Guys left on too long cut into the tissue and can cause tree death. When T-posts have been left too long, roots develop over the wings at the bottom of the post. When the T-posts are pulled out of the ground, roots are torn which is damaging to the tree. T-posts left in longer than a year should be cut off at ground level and not pulled out. If you guy a tree using this method, it should be done no higher than 18 inches from the soil surface.

The best way to guy a tree is to drive stakes through the root ball into the underlying soil to hold the root ball in place. One advantage of guying the tree in this manner is the stakes can be left in place forever. This method also allows the trunk to develop better taper and diameter as the trunk. The stakes are cut off even with the top of the root ball so they don’t protrude, eliminating a tripping hazard.

A lot of the trees and shrubs I have looked at are exhibiting very poor annual growth. The amount of growth a tree or shrub puts on each year is delineated by the circular scars on the shoot. The circular scar is the remnant of the terminal bud that develops for the next year’s growth. These buds are wrapped in protective scales and a scar encircling the stem remains when that bud begins growth the next year. Some of the trees I have looked at exhibit less and less annual growth over the last three or four years. Without adequate growth there are inadequate leaves to produce the food necessary to feed the plant and the tree or shrub suffers accordingly. Fertilizing trees and shrubs is an important maintenance requirement. In most cases one pound of nitrogen applied per one thousand square foot area around the tree or shrub is adequate.

In some instances the growth increment has been so poor I have been recommending two pounds nitrogen per one thousand. When you fertilize trees and shrubs the fertilizer should be watered in or it can be injected into the soil. Most likely your lawn care company or tree care professional can do this for you.

Fertilizing trees and shrubs should be done after leaves start to emerge, but no later than Aug. 1-15. To ensure your trees and shrubs are getting the appropriate fertilizer elements, ask your tree or lawn care company if they can do a soil test for you. Some companies offer soil testing to their customers to ensure your lawn, trees, shrubs, and other plants in your landscape are receiving the nutrients they require.

GJ Free Press columnist Dr. Curtis E. Swift is a retired horticulture agent with the Colorado State University Extension. Reach him at Curtis.Swift@alumni.colostate.edu, 970-778-7866 or check out his blog at http://SwiftsGardeningBlog.blogspot.com. He owns Swift Horticultural Consulting and High Altitude Lavender.


Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden

Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden

Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden

Hispanic mother and son gardening



Posted: Sunday, April 20, 2014 10:00 pm
|


Updated: 12:33 am, Mon Apr 21, 2014.

Tips for a Bountiful Backyard Garden

(Family Features) The benefits of having your own backyard vegetable garden are plentiful, and can include significant lifestyle impacts, such as healthier eating habits, money saving perks and more.


A Relaxing, Healthful Hobby

Looking for a hobby that allows you to contribute to the health of your family? Take up gardening. Beyond producing nutritious foods, it can help you teach your family about local agriculture, all while basking in the tranquility of the great outdoors. Though starting your own home garden can be intimidating, there are a few simple steps to get you started. Once developed, it can yield fruits and vegetables from early spring and into the fall.

1) Do Some Research

Find out what vegetables grow best in your area and when is the right time to plant and harvest. Many local university extension programs have this information readily available online. For each plant, consider the amount of water needed, how much sunlight is required and if it should be started from seed or a transplanted seedling.

2) Choose a Good Spot

Keep in mind vegetables need at least six hours of sun each day, so plant away from the shade of buildings, trees and shrubs. Planting close to your house may make you more likely to bring your harvest right into your kitchen, and will help you remember to weed and water. Including rain and irrigation, your garden needs at least one inch of water per week. Make sure you can easily access a water supply nearby. Some products, such as an Ames NeverLeak hose reel, provide convenient hose storage and can easily reach all parts of your yard. Be sure to choose a level area of your yard so when watering it will not pool in lower areas.

3) Clear the Area

Use your garden hose or a string to mark the area for proper placement of your garden. Use a sod lifter or garden spade, keeping the area level and removing as little topsoil as possible. Next, use a round point shovel, such as the True Temper True American Round-Point Shovel, to dig into the soil about 12 inches, breaking it up and removing clumps. To encourage proper drainage and escape light freezes in early spring and fall, construct a raised bed by creating a border with wood slats and filling in with soil. 

4) Prepare the Soil

Use a rake to create a smooth finish and remove debris or stones on the surface. You may want to add manure, compost or soil additives to provide additional nutrients in the soil.

5) Plant Your Seeds

Determine if you will be starting your plants from seeds or transplanting small seedlings. Be sure to research how much room each plant will need and plot the layout of your garden. Dig V-shaped furrows using a warren hoe or the edge of a garden hoe. Carefully distribute the seeds in the furrows evenly and in accordance with the instructions on the seed packet. Cover the seeds and pat down gently, then water thoroughly. 

Use this information for a fruitful harvest this gardening season. For more tips, visit www.AmesTrueTemper.com or www.Facebook.com/TrueTemperTools.

Photo courtesy of Getty Images (Mother and Son)

on

Sunday, April 20, 2014 10:00 pm.

Updated: 12:33 am.

Garden Tip: Evergreens stressed out from harsh winter

This winter has been particularly harsh on evergreens. You are probably seeing brown and dried sections on conifers like juniper, yew and arborvitae as well as on broadleaf evergreens like boxwood, rhododendron and holly.

It could be salt damage if the plants are close to a road. When salt is blown onto plants, it draws water out of the leaves or needles, causing them to dry out. There’s usually more damage from airborne salt than salt in the soil.

However, you might experience salt damage if salt-laden snow was plowed or shoveled into the root zone. Flush the area with water, once soils dry out a bit.

Winter wind is a more common reason for damage, leaving needles and leaves dried out. Either way, take a look at your twigs. If stems are still flexible, they are still alive. Leave them be.

Sometimes, they will re-leaf or re-needle, but it might not be until May when evergreens start to actively grow. They may grow from the tips as well. Do not fertilize these plants as they are already stressed.

Groundcovers like vinca, wintercreeper, and ivy also might not be looking their best. Rake out dead leaves and trim back any brittle, dried stems. These groundcovers can be pruned heavily and still will put out new growth.

Garden Tip is courtesy of Heather Prince, The Growing Place, 630-355-4000, www.thegrowingplace.com.

Stormwater management tips (Garden Talk) – The Birmingham News

By Bethany A. O’Rear

Q. I am hearing
more and more about stormwater runoff and how it affects our environment. Considering the large amount of rain that we
have received in the last few weeks, I am earnestly trying to figure out how I
can reduce the amount of water leaving my landscape. Can you provide some tips?

A. Great
question!! The manner in which we manage
our properties directly affects our waterways – positively or negatively.

In natural areas
such as forests, heavy rains seep into the soil. However, in human-built
landscapes, water often runs from impervious surfaces such as roofs, walks, and
drives directly into our waterways. This “stormwater” can significantly impact
our watersheds – surface water such as rivers and lakes, and groundwater from
which many of us get our drinking water.

This impact on our
watershed is often undesirable.
Stormwater can cause severe damage as it flows overland; often causing
flooding and stream bank erosion. Water that does not have time to percolate
into natural areas can wash excessive sediments into rivers and streams. Muddy
water is not a suitable habitat for many of our native plants and fish, giving
room for invasive species to thrive. Excessive water flowing across our
landscapes can wash harmful chemicals and other materials into our water
systems. Fertilizers and pesticides, especially when used incorrectly, can be
flushed into rivers and streams, many of which serve as a source for drinking
water.

To minimize such
negative impacts of your landscape on our watersheds, consider these practices
before applying pesticides to your landscape.

  • Put the right
    plant in the right place. Healthy, stress-free plants suffer less from pests.
  • Identify the plant first.  Be aware of its normal, healthy appearance.
  • Identify the pest
    second. Not all suspicious characters cause problems.
  • Read and abide by the pesticide label.  THE LABEL IS THE LAW.
  • Avoid having
    leftover chemicals. When choosing chemical controls, buy and mix only what you
    need.
  • More is not better.  Use the lowest labeled concentration rate that will get the job done.
  • Protect beneficial
    creatures. Spot treat the pest and avoid broadcast applications of pesticide.
  • Follow the label
    instructions for disposal. Do not put unused pesticides in household garbage
    containers.

Here are some
additional changes to the landscape that will help reduce the adverse effects
of stormwater runoff.

–Drip line infiltration
trench. This is simply a trench, about 18-inches wide and about 8-inches deep,
with crushed stone of various sizes in layers, under the roof drip line. It
captures heavy roof runoff, allowing it to seep into the soil naturally. It
works best in sandy or well-drained soils; otherwise you may need to install a
perforated PVC pipe as well in the trench.

–Pervious
walkways and patios. Leave a small space between bricks, flagstones, or other
pavers. Water can soak between pavers into a stone reservoir underneath. You
can find pervious pavers for driveways, as well.

–Rain barrels.
Place these large drums, often plastic and 55-gallon capacity or similar, under
downspouts to collect water for later use in watering plants. Make sure and
empty between rains to ensure there is enough space to capture runoff from
large storms. Cisterns are larger capacity versions.

–Rain gardens.
These bowl-shaped gardens utilize soil, mulch, and plants to absorb runoff and
allow it to then seep into the soil naturally. When making your selections, do
a little research to find plants that will handle dry periods as well as
standing in water for a short amount of time.

–Water bar. If you
have a moderately steep path, drive, or walk, consider adding one of these.
Bury a 6- or 8-inch wide rot-resistant timber across the path at an angle, with
a trench of similar depth on the upward side, lined with geotextile (like weed
barrier) fabric and filled with crushed stone. As water flows down the slope it
will soak into the trench, then the timber directs it to the side where it can
infiltrate.

I hope these tips are helpful.  Happy Gardening!

Garden Talk is
written by Bethany A. O’Rear of the Alabama Cooperative Extension System, C.
Beaty Hanna Horticulture Environmental Center, which is based at the
Birmingham Botanical Gardens. This column includes research-based information
from land-grant universities around the country, including Alabama AM
University and Auburn University. Email questions to Bethany at
bethany@aces.edu or call 205 879-6964 x15. Learn more
about what is going on in Jefferson County by visiting the ACES website,
www.aces.edu/Jefferson. Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/alabamacooperativeextensionsystem and follow us on Twitter @acesedu

5 Pet-friendly Gardening Tips

As the warmth of the season beckons us outdoors, many pet and plant lovers are caught in the crossroads — is it possible to intertwine a love for nature while meeting the needs of our beloved domestics? The short answer is yes — with a little bit of ingenuity! Here are spring’s top tips for gardening pet lovers.
2014-04-16-Mila_072.jpg

1) Pet owners should choose fertilizers and mulches cautiously. Shop for organic, pet-friendly fertilizers and soil amendments. Be aware that many environmentally friendly fertilizers contain fish byproducts, blood meal and ground poultry feathers. These ingredients are very appealing to many dogs and may cause digestive upset if eaten in quantity. If possible, keep your pets away from newly fertilized beds and lawns until the product has dissolved. Alternatively, consider liquid fertilizers. When buying mulch, avoid cocoa mulch. It is toxic to pets and lethal if ingested in quantity. Choose root mulch, wood bark or gravel instead. My favorite? Pine bark mulch, in any form.

2) If you have a dog, consider his essential “dogness” — dogs like to course the perimeters of their territory, aka your yard. If your plantings run up to the edges of your property, they’re likely to get trampled. To prevent this frustration, keep or create an 18- to 36-inch pathway around the boundary of your property, especially if you plan to erect fencing.

3) Speaking of fencing, many dogs get quite frustrated when they can’t see out of their property to identify noises and passersby, which leads to digging and/or frustration barking. Often, dogs destroy garden beds or bark themselves into frenzy out of frustration and boredom.

If your containment system blocks your dog’s vision, consider a transparent window erected at eye level (your dog’s, that is). I use a PetPeek, which the kids love, too. A little porthole into the world outside and a non-planted path around the perimeter can keep everyone on the same page, landscape-wise.

4) Ever notice that your dog excavates your plantings days after you tucked them into the earth? Though maddening, your dog has paid you a high compliment. Ever mindful of your activities, he’s watching each handful of dirt you unearth. If he sees you gardening, he will soon mimic your technique.

As you begin to shape good canine garden habits, keep your dog inside while you tend your plants.

5) If your dog enjoys digging, he will likely always relish the feeling of the earth on his paws. If this is the case, you’ll need to provide a dog-friendly digging pit — a small area (think sandbox) filled with sand, dirt and/or pine mulch where you encourage him to “Go dig!” Do this during playtime to encourage his enthusiasm. If he stares at the digging pit and gives you the “huh?” face, try burying a bone, toy or treat and, if necessary, get down on your knees and dig with him!

2014-04-16-100913_Hugo_05.jpg

It can be a little tricky to keep dogs out of garden beds. Take a few minutes to consider why your dog enters your planting area in the first place. Is he mimicking you? You’ll need to be more discrete when planting and pruning. Is it to eliminate or mark? That solution can be fairly simple, though it may take a week or two. Start by giving your dog his own area away from your tomatoes and prized tulips. Center his new elimination area around a physical structure or tree, or erect a decorative stone or even a faux fire hydrant. Take your dog to the new area on leash in the morning or when you take him out after a separation. Wait to offer your hugs and greetings until after he’s gone potty, and discourage your dog from going near your beds by calmly redirecting him on a long line should he venture near.

My last suggestion is to remember that your dog is as ecstatic about the spring thaw as you are. He is equally excited to get outside, stretch his legs and bask in the sun. As far as pets and plants go, play with your dog first to tire him out, and garden during your dog’s nap times.

Next article on gardening will cover boundary training — a creative, non-threatening technique to keep your pet out of the garden once and for all!

7 Gardening Tips For Neem Tree

BEST GARDENING TIPS FOR PLANTING SEEDS

The seeds, bark and leaves of the neem tree are mostly used to produce medicinal, cosmetic and insecticidal products. Apart from their leaves and bark, even the fruit from the tree is used for medicinal purposes. It is a well-known fact that neem leaves have been used as an antiseptic and also to treat acute skin problems. Many practitioners use the leaves of the tree to treat ailments ranging from skin rashes to diabetes. The leaves are also made into shampoos, soaps and skin care products.

Interestingly, even neem oil obtained by pressing the fruits and seeds of the tree offers many benefits. It is mostly used for treating fungal diseases like black spot, needle rust, mildew and scab, anthracnose and rust. Here are some simple gardening tips to grow the medicinal neem tree.

7 Gardening Tips For Neem Tree

Purchase a young plant
If you have decided to grow a neem tree in your garden, then make sure to purchase a young tree or order seeds from a good seed company. There are plenty of sources available online to purchase seeds.

All types of soil
Neem grows in almost all types of soil. Growing neem tree is simple as it can be grown in any type of soil which includes clayey, saline, black cotton soil and alkaline soils.

Place your pot in a warm temperature
It is definitely better to cover the seeds with about one inch deep soil in a nursery. Even if you want to grow multiple trees, start your seeds in small pots. The most remembered gardening tip to grow neem tree is to begin cultivating it in spring as the temperature at that time is best suited for germination. Seeds usually take about three to four weeks to germinate.

Avoid sunlight
There is also a way to grow young neem tree in a large pot with drainage holes but make sure to use the best potting mix. Potted neem tree can be kept in natural sunlight and an outdoor environment from spring to late summers, however try to keep the tree indoor after the arrival of fall. Never place the tree in the hot sun for long hours when the young tree starts to show signs of growth. It is also good to provide fluorescent light for several hours during the dark winter months as this helps the tree to respond positively and to continue its growth.

Apply organic fertiliser
Next plant the tree after digging a hole that is larger than the pot size or root system. Make sure to plant the tree deeply to cover the total root ball. Try to grow the neem tree by filling the hole after you set the plant into it.

The most important gardening tip is to water young trees once a week with an organic fertiliser like liquid fish emulsions. Be careful to follow the instructions before applying the fertiliser. You need to apply one-half strength dilution of fish emulsion with 1 gallon of water. It is important not to fertilise the tree during winter.

Soil needs to dry
Remember to water the young tree if you want it to retain the moisture in the soil.

Prune your plant
It is better to prune your young tree during spring if you want to maintain a manageable size. You can also prune during late summer.

These are some of the gardening tips that you need to follow for growing a neem tree.

Get ready for summer: Alan Titchmarch on transforming your garden …

A the weather warms up, soil conditions improve and new shoots appear everywhere. The surge in strong new growth is the trigger that kick-starts the garden forward into summer, so this is the time to feed, pot-up summer plants and get your lawn sorted.

POTTING

This is the peak season for buying plug plants and young plants of all sorts of frost-tender species intended for summer patio containers.

You’ll find a huge selection at nurseries and garden centres; if you’ve ordered by post they’ll be delivered any time now. Unpack them as soon as they arrive, water if need be and stand them in the light, even if you don’t have time to pot them straight away. 

Since their tiny “starter pots” or “cell-packs” will already be chock-full of roots, they need repotting as soon as possible. Use peat-free seed and cuttings compost and pots that are roughly three and a half inches (9cm) in diameter.

Half fill the pots with compost and make a slight depression in the centre. Tip each young plant gently out of its original container without damaging the rootball and sit it in the centre of its new pot, then fill the gap round the edge with more of the same compost and firm gently. 

If you have your own fuchsia or pelargonium cuttings taken last summer and overwintered indoors, they’ll also be ready for potting.

The technique is exactly the same, but when you’ve rooted several cuttings in the same pot or seed tray, lift the whole lot out onto a sheet of newspaper and gently separate the individual plants with your fingers, keeping as much of the roots intact as possible. Lower each rooted cutting into the partly-filled pot and drizzle compost round the roots, then firm it gently in place.

After potting any plugs/young plants/rooted cuttings, water them lightly in, nip out the very tips of the shoots between your fingertips (this makes the plants grow bushy and flower more profusely), and stand them on a drip tray on a bright, sunny windowsill indoors to grow-on. 

They’ll be at just the right stage to plant outside after the last frost has passed, in mid to late May, to give you a superb summer show.

2014-04-19T01:00:00Z Gardening Guru TipsMelinda Myers Wiscnews.com – Juneau County Star

No matter where you live, being a water-wise gardener makes environmental and economic sense. And it’s really easier than you think. Here are just a few of the easy and affordable ways to conserve water while growing a beautiful garden.

Grow plants suited to your climate; consider the average rainfall for your area. Select drought-tolerant plants that, once established, require less on-going care. Consider native plants like coneflower, yucca and penstemon as well as native and non-invasive ornamental grasses.

Be sure to group moisture-loving plants together and near a source of water. You’ll save time and water by concentrating your efforts on fewer plants. Move containers to the shade or provide additional shade during hot, dry weather to reduce the plant’s water needs.

Use organic nitrogen fertilizers like Milorganite (milorganite.com). This slow-release fertilizer encourages slow, steady growth that requires less water. Plus, it will not burn plants during hot, dry weather. It simply stays in the soil until the growing conditions, moisture and temperature are right for the plants.

Install a rain barrel or two to capture rain for watering in-ground and container gardens. Or place a rain barrel near your garden and collect rain directly from the sky. Use this water to supplement your garden’s moisture needs during drought.

Decorate or mask the barrels with vines, decorative fencing, containers or nearby plantings. And check with your local municipality as several states and communities have banned rain harvesting on private property.

Use soaker hoses and drip irrigation to save water by applying the water directly to the soil where it is needed. Consider connecting your rain barrel to a soaker hose in a nearby garden. Just open the spigot and allow gravity to slowly empty the water throughout the day. Check to make sure water is evenly distributed throughout the garden.

And always water thoroughly and less frequently to encourage deep, drought-tolerant roots. Add a layer of organic mulch like shredded leaves, evergreen needles or herbicide-free grass clippings to conserve moisture and keep roots cool. As these break down they add organic matter to the soil, improving the water-holding ability of sandy and rocky soils.

Allow lawns to go dormant during droughts. Apply one-quarter inch of water every three to four weeks during extended droughts. This keeps the crown of the plant alive while the grass remains dormant. Do not apply weed killers, and minimize foot and equipment traffic on dormant lawns.

Incorporate one or more of these techniques in your garden care this season. You’ll conserve water while creating healthier and more attractive gardens.