Acorn squash will last up to two months if stored in 50-degree temperatures with 50 to 75 percent humidity.Courtesy PhotoHubbard squash is a winter gourd, meaning it can be stored well into the winter months.

Michigan gardeners ended September with the fall harvest still going strong, thanks to overnight cloud cover and breezes that kept the mercury from dropping below freezing.
From Garden City to Gould City, backyard gardens still are going strong.

In some respects, Cindy Neighbors welcomes a hard freeze — at least a selective freeze.

“I’ve got too many zucchinis,’’ said Neighbors, who tends a backyard garden in Gould City, about an hour west of the Mackinac Bridge in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

Located off U.S. 2, its proximity to Lake Michigan helped keep overnight lows in September above freezing, at least in her yard.

“I have more zucchini than I know what to do with,’’ Neighbors lamented. “I bought seeds from a Farmer’s Co-Op that I thought were cucumber seeds.

“They weren’t cucumbers at all. You know what rabbits do? Well, zucchini does that also.’’
Neighbors is referring to the proliferation of baby bunnies in spring; cute furry critters that wreak havoc on gardens.

Like countless other gardeners with a surplus of zucchini, Neighbors shares the bounty with friends, neighbors and just about anyone who will take them.

Given the bountiful harvest, Neighbors even hands them out to regulars at McNeil’s Bar, which she runs in the picturesque Mackinac County community founded in 1886 and named after a lumberman.

Share the bounty

Neighbors has given away bushels of zucchini, but couldn’t pawn off her excess to Mary and Dale Lee, who stopped by McNeil’s Bar on Sept. 29 to watch the Michigan State vs. Ohio State football game.

Zucchini is one of the more prolific producers in their 80-foot by 80-foot garden in Gulliver, located in Schoolcraft County in Michigan’s U.P. They also grow potatoes, tomatoes, sweet corn, radishes, cucumbers, green beans and sunflowers.

Mary Lee is not unsympathetic to Neighbors’ plight — she had acorn squash coming out of her ears years ago when she had a garden in the Lenawee County town of Tecumseh, at the other end of the state.

“I had eight to 10 acorn squash plants and, truthfully, at the time, I was overwhelmed,’’ she said. “A lot of it we gave away, and what we had left was stored in a crawl space.’’
Good move. Acorn squash, along with butternut and hubbard are winter squash, meaning they can be stored well into the winter months.

Mature fruits have a dry, dull skin and are ready for picking when the skin cannot be punctured by a thumbnail.

Butternut and hubbard squash can be stored for more than three months. Acorn squash will last two months if stored at 50 degrees with humidity of at least 50 percent. The higher humidity helps prevent squash from shriveling.

A dark, sandy crawl space like the one beneath Lee’s home offered the perfect location.

Storage wars

“You keep them in a crawl space, and they’ll last through the winter,’’ Lee said. “We had a good dug-out with sandy soil.’’

Even after three months, the flavor was just as good as the day they were harvested.
“I don’t think I noticed a difference in the taste at all,’’ Mary Lee said. “So long as they stay cool and dry, they’re fine.’’

Don’t assume your squash are ready for harvest if the vines are dead. Vines can die prematurely from disease, stress and early frost. If the fruits are immature, they will not store as well as those coming from healthy vines that die naturally.

When harvest time arrives, make sure you don’t scratch, cut or bruise the fruit; it provides an easy entrance for rot-producing organisms.

It is best to harvest winter squash when it is dry, the rind is hard and night temperatures drop below 40 degrees — but before a hard freeze.

When cutting, leave about one-inch of stem connected to the squash. And don’t pick them up by the stem; if it breaks off, you’re opening the door for rot.

Use a rag or towel to wipe dirt from skins rather than hosing them down. Winter squash must be stored dry.

If daytime temperatures are in the 70s, let them cure in a sunny, dry location for a few days before carting them inside for storage.

Storing winter squash next to apples and other ripening fruit is a no-no; tree fruits release ethylene gas which shortens the storage life of squash.

And if you have too much to store, try freezing it.

It was a godsend for Neighbors, with her errant, excess zucchini.

“I skin it, remove the seeds and grate it to use for zucchini bread or to add to other recipes,’’ she said. “It freezes well.

“I don’t do a lot of baking, but I have a lot of girlfriends who bake, so I give it away — especially when I grow it by accident.’’

Email: jjhogan001@gmail.com

LINCOLN, Neb. (AP) – Now that fall has arrived and cooler temperatures are becoming the norm, it’s time for Nebraska gardeners to determine what to harvest and when.

Some crops will need to be harvested before a frost, while others can withstand colder temperatures.

Warm weather loving crops that do not tolerate frost and low temperatures include tomatoes, peppers, sweet potatoes, okra, eggplant, cucumbers and summer squash. Watermelon, cantaloupe, pumpkin, corn and eggplant also are sensitive to cool temperatures and can result in plant damage or death.

Crops that withstand a light frost between down to 30 degrees include beets, mustard, Chinese cabbage, radishes, collards, spinach, potatoes, Swiss chard, Bibb lettuce, green onions and leaf lettuce.

Crops that can withstand several freezes include cabbage, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, rutabagas, Brussels sprouts, and kale.

Copyright 2012 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

ATLANTA –

October is here and it can be one of the most beautiful times of the year living in north Georgia.

There are some simple tips which will help keep that beauty running well before the frost hits with some simple things to do around the garden.

Melondie McDanal from Pike Nurseries joined Good Day Atlanta’s Gurvir Dhindsa on Friday’s show with some of those tips.

Click on the video above to watch the full segment.

Here are some of those tips:

For the Lawn

• Plant Fescue Lawn Seed: As with other plants, sowing fescue seed in the fall allows the grass to root in and become established before the stressful heat of summer returns.
• Apply Pre-Emergent to Prevent Winter Weeds: To control winter weeds such as poa annua (annual bluegrass), henbit, chickweed and others, apply a pre-emergent to your Bermuda or Zoysia lawn around mid-month.
• Do not apply to a fescue lawn if you plan to sow seed in the fall.
• Not only will it prevent weed seeds from germinating, it will also prevent the grass seed from germinating.

For the Birds

• Keep Them Full: Keep your feeders and the birds full this month as the landscape transitions from summer to fall.
• Feed Migrating Birds: While summer has nearly ended, keep your hummingbird feeders full – they may attract migrating hummingbirds.

October in the Garden

• Color for the Garden and Pots: Plant blooming Snapdragons, Violas and Pansies for fall and winter color. Try planting Ornamental Mustard, Kale or Cabbage for exciting foliage color.
• Fall is the time to plant or transplant shrubs: Water newly transplanted shrubs thoroughly.
• Plant Now for Spring Color: Plant spring flowering bulbs like Daffodils, Hyacinths and Tulips and apply a light, complete fertilizer such as Espoma Bone Meal or Pennington Bulb Food.
• Divide overgrown clumps of perennials (such as Daylilies, Daisies, Hostas and Coneflowers): Replant divisions or give to friends as “pass-along” plants.
• Improve the Soil: Fall is a good season for improving soil by adding organic amendments – Soil Conditioner or Pike’s Planting Mix is a good choice – and rototilling.

In the House

• Bring Them Inside: If you moved plants outside for summer, now is the time to bring them back inside.
• Mid-October is right time to move tropical plants since indoor temps and outdoor temps are about the same.
• Before you bring the plants inside, check for insects. You may need to use an insecticidal soap or a systemic insecticide prior to the big move.

If you have a question for the experts from Pike Nurseries the Good Day Atlanta crew at goodday@myfoxatlanta.com. Include your name, your city, your question, and a picture if you can. We may use your question on a future segment.

• Buy and plant pansies now for better root growth and vigor going into the cooler months.

• Lightly till or turn the soil with a shovel. Add some organic matter and work into the area.

• Pansies like sun. So make sure the bed will get four or more hours of sun a day. Consider that trees shading an area today will drop all of those leaves and allow more sun to shine on the bed.

• Pansies look best when planted close together in masses. Use flower colors that are the same, or try mixing just two colors together.

• Bright colored flowers, such as yellow and white or light blue and white, are more noticeable from the street.

• Pansies look great in containers, too.

• Because pansies are heavy feeders, use a liquid fertilizer every two to four weeks.

• Deer and squirrels love to eat tulip and crocus bulbs. This year, when planting, place chicken wire over the bulbs and then add the soil.

Todd Goulding provides residential landscape design consultations. Contact him at GouldingDesignGroup@gmail.com.

It is time to start getting houseplants that have been outdoors or on the patio all summer ready to move back indoors.

If you bring them inside without any advance conditioning, plants can suffer serious shock. The change can cause leaves to turn yellow or drop off.

Here’s how to ease the journey indoors for your plants:

About two weeks before you expect to bring your plants inside, start getting them adjusted to less sunlight. Do this by moving them into a bit more shade during the day.

Let them dry before watering. This will help them adjust to the indoor environment.

Do not fertilize your plants before moving them inside. Fertilizer can add new growth before they get adjusted to the new environment.

Inspect plants for insects before you bring them inside. Insects hide on the undersides of leaves. You can wipe your leaves, using a fine spray of water at room temperature. This also will remove any dust from the leaves.

Check your plants to make sure they are not root- bound. If you see roots coming out of the bottom of the pot, move the plant to a larger pot. The pot should be no more than 2 inches larger in diameter than the pot in which it is currently growing. The new pot should have at least one drainage hole.

If you have seeds left from this year’s garden there is no reason you cannot save them for next year. Proper storage of seeds can greatly increase the chance of germination next year. The seeds should be air-dried and placed in a glass container with an air-tight lid. Keep this in a refrigerator or in a cool area at a temperature between 35 and 50 degrees. Do not save seeds from vegetables labeled “hybrid” Many of the new, improved vegetable seeds are hybrid. Seeds from hybrid varieties produce a mixture of plant types.

Vegetable seeds that are fairly simple to store at home for three to five years are tomato, peas, beans, lettuce, beets, cabbage, cauliflower, radish, cucumber, watermelon, and squash. Seeds with a short shelf life (one year or less) are onion, sweet corn and parsley. Be sure the containers are labeled and dated.

E-mail your gardening questions to bleigh1@utk.edu. Include your name and the area where you live. For more gardening information, call the Tipton County Extension office at 901-476-0231 or the Shelby County Extension office at 901-752-1207. Booker T. Leigh is the extension director for Tipton County.

LSU Hilltop Arboretum’s Hodge Podge Nursery volunteers are more than enthusiastic gardeners. They are pretty good cooks, too, and it’s that skill that shines in their new self-published, fundraiser cookbook, “Passalong Recipes From the Podge” ($20 including tax, paperback).

On Wednesdays, the volunteers show up early to work at Hilltop’s on-site nursery at 11855 Highland Road, Baton Rouge, then break for a potluck lunch. “There is always something different,” volunteer Marion Drummond said at a recent lunch. “But when there’s no dessert, you’ve never heard such crying,” laughed Helen Levy. “So the next time, everyone will bring desserts and there are no vegetables.”

The 176-page cookbook, edited by Lisa Parker, with help from Pam Sulzer, Maradee Cryer, Susie Cortello, Janet Forbes and Paula Dillemuth, grew out of those lunches, said Peggy Davis Coates, also a cookbook committee member. The book is the brainchild of Parker, who also formatted the book’s layout while in the process of moving to California, Coates said.

The book features a collection of the volunteers’ favorite recipes for appetizers, soups, sandwiches, salads, main dishes, vegetables, sweets of all types, breads and beverages. It includes color photographs, quotes, garden tips and stories passed along by Hodge Podge Nursey fans.

Among the recipes are Nutty Party Mix; Shrimp and Corn Soup; Spinach Tuscan Torta; Yehudi Menuhin’s Eggplant Casserole; Corn, Poblanos Onions; Denise’s Blueberry Buckle; Donna’s Pumpkin Pecan Pie; Baklava; Santa Fe Squares; and Bourbon St. Milkshake.

Each chapter opens with a typical plant label used for plant sales and features the favorite flowering plants of Emory Smith, a retired postal worker with a passion for native Louisiana plants who in 1981 donated the 14-acre Hilltop nature preserve to LSU. Smith always encouraged the sharing of plants, and Hilltop’s on-site nursery is an outgrowth of Smith’s philosophy, the book says.

Hodge Podge has grown to an all-volunteer, small, nursery operation with more than 6,000 plants representing more than 600 species.

The cookbook will be on sale at Hilltop’s PlantFest! Oct. 6-7 and during its Fall Garden Tour from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Oct. 28. It also is available by calling the Hilltop Garden Book and Nature Shop at (225) 767-6916 from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday through Friday or by emailing hilltop@tigers.lsu.edu or checking the website htt://www.lsu.edu/hilltop.

Book signing, dinner in N.O.

The Link Restaurant Group will host a book signing and dinner Oct. 10 at its private event facility, Calcasieu, 930 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans, to benefit the nonprofit St. Bernard Project.

Chef Stephen Stryjewski, of Cochon and Cochon Butcher in New Orleans and Cochon Lafayette, will host the event to introduce the new edition of John Martin Taylor’s “Hoppin’ John’s Lowcountry Cooking.” Tickets to the dinner are $100 per person and include a signed copy of the cookbook and a bag of Hoppin’ John’s stone-ground grits. For reservations, call (504) 588-2188.

In celebration of the cookbook’s 20th anniversary, the University of North Carolina Press has released a new edition with 250 updated recipes. Taylor, a founding member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, is considered an authority on the culinary history of the South and the cooking of the coastal plain that surrounds Charleston, S.C., and Savannah, Ga. Stryjewski will prepare a three-course meal featuring recipes from Taylor’s cookbook; Taylor will discuss his book, travels and most memorable meals.

The St. Bernard Project is a rebuilding, nonprofit organization with a mission “to remove physical, mental and emotional barriers for vulnerable families, senior citizens and disabled residents who are struggling to recover from the devastation and trauma caused by Hurricane Katrina and the oil spill,” a press release said. For more information about the project, go to http://www.stbernardproject.org.

Cheramie Sonnier is The Advocate’s Food editor. Her email address is csonnier@theadvocate.com.

BOISE, Idaho (KBOI) – It’s about to get cold outside.

Overnight temperatures could approach freezing for the first time this season. And, if you’ve been gardening, there are a couple things you need to do if you want to keep your plans growing in this cooler weather.

Flowers are are susceptible to frosty temperatures so if you want to keep their colors vibrant for a few more weeks you should cover them with a frost blanket or a row cover for the next couple of nights.

Some vegetables, especially tomatoes, taste awful if they are left growing on the vine during a freeze.

“I’m going to go home and pick all my red tomatoes tonight for sure,” said Amber Garden, Zamzows greenhouse manager. “I’m also going to just go through and pick all the cucumbers I can. But I am going to hope that those green tomatoes will still turn red. I think we have some time.”

Leaving the green tomatoes on the vine is a good idea because there is a chance that parts of the Treasure Valley won’t quite reach 32 degrees and if you lose them, they weren’t ready anyway.

Other vegetables can keep right on growing because they aren’t sensitive to quick periods of freezing temperatures.

“Things that aren’t are your lettuce, your radishes and your cold crop kind of things like broccoli and things. So you don’t need to worry about those so much, but tomatoes and peppers for sure.”

It’s prime time to plant tulips and other spring blooming bulbs, but if squirrels frequent your garden, you are undoubtedly aware of how difficult it is to keep those varmints from digging up and eating the bulbs. In the past I often recommended planting the bulbs surrounded by chicken wire or hardware cloth. Now there’s a new way to protect bulbs that is much easier and just as effective.

Dig the hole and plant the bulb as you normally would, but instead of caging it, cover the bulb with poultry grit, which is made up of crushed granite, shale, or oyster shells, and is available at feed stores and some hardware stores. The squirrels don’t like trying to dig through the sharp grit and quickly give up.

Unfortunately, if the squirrels do what they did at my house and exact revenge by eating the flower buds right when they emerge from the soil, there are only two effective control methods. Either plant one of the many types of spring blooming bulbs that squirrels won’t eat such as Chionodoxa, snowdrops, Daffodils, hyacinth and Fritillaria, or adopt a wiener dog to patrol your garden.

Harvest your winter squash

To store well and develop sweet flavor, winter squash must be allowed to fully ripen on the vine. At the same time, however, freezing temperatures can harm the fruit, so it must be picked before the first frost. It can be a bit tricky to know when a winter squash is ripe.

Usually the first sign that it’s time to harvest is that the vines begin to dry out. Another sign is that the fruit turns color. For instance ‘Spaghetti’ squash turns tan, or yellow, ‘Delicata’ usually turns cream colored with dark stripes and ‘Butter Cup’ squash usually turn dark green with silvery or golden striping.

Once it colors up, test to make sure the rind has hardened sufficiently by applying pressure to the skin, if it doesn’t yield to a bit of pressure it’s time to harvest. When harvesting, use pruners to cut it and leave a few inches of stem on the fruit. Leaving a shorter stem will cause the fruit to rot.

Most winter squash need to be cured by keeping them in 70-degree temperatures for 15 days before storing them in a cool dry place.

Delicata and acorn squash don’t need curing. Simply store them cool and dry and you’ll be enjoying delicious squash all winter long.

Manure never smelled

so good!

Improve production in your vegetable garden by sowing a fall cover crop, commonly referred to as “green manure” before mid-October. Fall cover crops usually consist of legumes such as winter peas, fava beans, clovers or vetches. They germinate and grow quickly enough to form a protective ground cover before winter freezes set in, yet not so fast as to harm late season, or overwintering vegetable crops.

Cover crops protect and improve the soil in several ways. The thick foliage prevents pounding winter rains from compacting the soil surface and leaching out nutrients, while choking out winter and late spring weeds. At the same time it forms an aggressive root system that breaks up and aerates hard soil.

Most important, especially when sowed with an inoculant (available at nurseries) members of the pea family used as a cover crop host special fungus that collect nutrients and make them available for vegetable-crop growth. In spring, simply turn the cover crop into the soil. If you are going to sow a fall cover crop, don’t delay. Seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are in the 50 to 60 degree range.

Ciscoe Morris: ciscoe@ciscoe.com; “Gardening with Ciscoe” airs at 10 a.m. Saturdays on KING-TV

.

It includes photos from throughout Louisiana, tips from AgCenter horticulturist Dan Gill and information about the best plants for growing in your garden.

The 9-inch-by-13.25-inch calendar sells for $11.95 and is available for online orders at www.LSUAgCenter.com/GetItGrowingCalendar or by calling 225-578-4646. The calendar will be available soon at bookstores, garden centers and gift shops.

This month has been an amazing one for gleaning. My neighbors have offered me so many apples, grapes, various veggies and even eggs, that I seem to have neglected my own gardens. Not to mention the black walnuts and acorns and hazelnuts, the wild grains and greens and fruits that grow as weeds near my house. There has just been so much food coming my way that I seriously questioned why I should actually go to the trouble of starting seeds, weeding, watering, harvesting and processing my own food, since I have so much around me that would otherwise be wasted.

Except that we all need to prepare for the time when there is greater urban competition for wild foods, and when our neighbors realize the useful bounty of their own fruit trees, so gleaning becomes rare. As climate changes disrupt our agricultural system and rising fuel prices disrupt our food transportation, we even need to consider how we will nourish ourselves if food becomes much more expensive. Even now, many neighborhoods have to deal with “food deserts,” where the nearby stores only sell cigarettes, lottery tickets and junk food.

So we still need to plant our own gardens, plant our own fruit trees, learn how to preserve our own harvest. But now we are weeks past the equinox and probably a few frosts into autumn. What to do, now that the growing season is ending?

For starters, it is definitely not too late to plant a fruit tree. Not a bare root tree, of course; those only survive when planted in the spring. And not a bare root tree that has recently been placed in a pot. But if a tree has been container-grown, there is still time to get it in the ground, giving it almost a full year head-start on fruit production. Just make sure that you are buying actual container-grown from a reputable nursery, and keep it well watered until the ground is frozen hard. It should come back nicely in the spring.

You can also plant garlic one or two weeks after the first killing frost. If the plants have a bit of time before the ground freezes solid, they will establish their root systems for next year’s growth. Planting cloves from the grocery store is not recommended, since those varieties don’t usually survive our Minnesota winters.

But a good garden store like Mother Earth Gardens or Southside Farm or EggPlant over in St. Paul will stock the right varieties and can give you the planting information you need to get started.

It is also a wonderful time to think about ground cover for your existing garden. A thick seeding of Dutch white clover or other groundcover will hold the soil after you have harvested your last tomatoes, plus enrich the soil with nutrients you can dig into the plot next spring. Again, check with your local good garden store and they can make recommendations.

If you have never planted a garden before, but you are pretty sure you want to plant one next year, consider starting to compost now. Compost is the rich decayed plant material that becomes a perfect fertilizer. You can make your own compost with kitchen scraps and weeds and grass clippings and autumn leaves, mixed with a little dirt and left in an outside space about one yard on each side. Consider buying one of those black composters from Eureka Recycling (612-222-7678), Mother Earth Gardens (612-724-2296) or Linden Hills Natural Home (612-279-2479). There are rough formulas for fast composting. Put in about three or four parts leaves to one part food scraps, and give it a bit of water from time to time. Mulching up the leaves with your mower makes things go quicker. If your compost pile starts to stink, add more leaves and less garbage, and cut back on the water quite a bit. But don’t let the science of composting scare you; if you don’t do it “right,” about the worst thing that can happen is that it just takes a little longer to become finished compost, no longer containing any recognizable scraps and smelling like good black earth.

If you really get into it, you may even want to add worm composting under your kitchen sink or in your basement, for when the outside pile is frozen. The slender book “The Worms Ate My Garbage” is an excellent place to start, and several different models of worm composting systems are also sold at the stores above.

Having said all this, however, I should end by saying that the experienced gardeners I have known just realize that winter is a time for rest. After the last bell pepper is dehydrated, after the last cider is squeezed, after the last jam has been put up in jars, it is time to rest. Read gardening books. Sketch out your dreams for next year’s produce. E-mail or write away for few good gardening catalogs. Sit in front of the fireplace (or just at the kitchen table facing your sweetie) and enjoy the food you grew in the summer.

Last, here’s the calendar:

Oct. 4, 6 to 7:30 p.m. Free but RSVP required.

“Fall yard and garden care,” Linden Hills Library,
2900 W. 43rd St., Mpls. 612-543-6825 or
www.hclib.org/pub/events

Oct. 4, 6 to 8:30 p.m. Free but RSVP required.

“Fall yard and garden care,” Pierre Bottineau Library,
55 Broadway St. N.E., Mpls. 612-543-8650 or
www.hclib.org/pub/events

Oct. 6, 10:30 a.m. to noon. Free but RSVP required.

“Pruning trees and shrubs,” Excelsior Library, 343 Third St.,
Excelsior. 612-543-6350 or
www.hclib.org/pub/events

Oct. 6, 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Free. “Edible landscapes,”

Augsburg Park Library, 7100 Nicollet Ave.,
Richfield. 612-543-6200 or
www.hclib.org/-pub/events

Oct. 6, 1 to 2:30 p.m. Free but RSVP required.

“Fall yard and garden care,” Brooklyn
Park Library, 8600 Zane Ave.,
Brooklyn Park. 612-543-6225 or
www.hclib.org/pub/events

Oct. 6, 9:30 a.m. to noon. “Home composting workshop,“

Pratt School, 66 Malcolm Ave. S.E.,
Mpls. Register at 612-668-1100
or
www.mplscommunityed.com/index.cfm?method=ClassListing.ClassListingDisplayint_category_id=3int_sub_category_id=24#

Oct. 7, 10 a.m. to noon. $18.

“Compost and soil preparation,”
Mississippi Market, 1500 W. 7th St., St Paul.
651-690—0507 or
www.eventbrite.com/event/-4240453310

Oct. 10, 6 to 8 p.m. $15.

“Growing and cooking with herbs,”
Roosevelt High, 4029 28th Ave. S., Mpls.
Register at 612-668-4828 or
www.mplscommunityed.com/index.cfm?method=-ClassListing.ClassListingDisplay-int_category_id=3int_sub_-category_id=24#

Oct. 11, 6 to 7:30 p.m., Free but RSVP required.

“Pruning trees and shrubs,” Linden Hills Library, 2900 W. 43rd St., Mpls.
612-543-6825 or w
ww.hclib.org/pub/events

Oct. 13, 3 to 4:30 p.m. Free.

“Growing herbs in Minnesota,”
Southeast Library, 1222 4th St. S.E., Mpls. 612-543-6725
or www.hclib.org/pub/events

Oct. 14, 1 to 2:30 p.m. $25.

“Learn to brew your own kombucha,” EggPlant Urban Farm Supply, 1771 Selby Ave., St Paul.
651-645-0818 or www.eggplantsupply.com/Classes.html

Oct. 21, 1 to 3 p.m. $25. “Fermentation,”

EggPlant Urban Farm Supply, 1771 Selby Ave., St Paul.
651-645-0818 or www.eggplantsupply.com/Classes.html

Charley Underwood