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Just add water: Alan Titchmarsh tips on building a garden pond

It doesn’t matter how many channels you have, there are always those evenings when there’s nothing on the telly. The solution is simple: build yourself a garden pond.Nowadays most folk seem to go for water features rather than a full-blown pond. It’s understandable; they are easy to install, attractive to look at and relatively easy to maintain. 

But they don’t offer much in the way of sustenance to wildlife, and that way you miss out every bit as much as the creatures that will enjoy a pond.

Frogs will spawn there, birds will drink, dragonflies and damselflies will skim the surface and you can even introduce goldfish for a spot of exotic colour.  

Even in a tiny pond, water boatmen and pond skaters will appear almost before it has been filled. The larger the pond the greater your scope – waterfowl will take up residence if space is available and nesting facilities provided.

As far as siting goes, make your pond in the open – not under trees where, at the first sign of autumn, it will fill with leaves. Make it as large as you can, and certainly no smaller than 6ft by 4ft, which is an absolute minimum. 

As far as depth goes, you don’t need to go mad with the spade – 18in at the deepest point is fine for a small pond, and even on a massive one, 3ft is ample. Around the edge of the pond construct a step arrangement to act as a shelf for “marginal aquatics” that like to live in shallow water.

Love is in the air: Alan Titchmarsh on how to prepare your garden for a wedding

Give the garden an especially good going over now, so that by the time the wedding comes round everything is looking well-groomed. Put plant support frames in place, stake delphiniums, tie in climbers, redefine lawn edges and trim round them every time you mow for a neat, sharp edge. Spruce up garden furniture and get rid of unsightly junk. If need be, screen off compost heaps or neighbours’ eyesores with a few well-placed sections of hazel hurdle or woven willow fencing. 

If you have a frost-free conservatory, get hanging baskets and tubs planted early under cover so you can bring them out in full bloom. And if you want something flowery and fail-safe, plant large tubs with patio roses. Group three identical plants together as a quick fix – they’ll look like one large plant that’s been there for years.

Then make out a checklist of things to do in the last weeks and days leading up to the event. Clip hedges, pressure-wash paving, wipe the exterior of containers, rake gravel, weed gaps between paving slabs, sweep paths, wipe down garden furniture and arrange pretty plants in decorative pot covers as live floral arrangements for table centres (lavender plants are brilliant for this).

If that all sounds rather daunting, don’t forget that you don’t have to do it all yourself. But if you are going to rely on outside help, get it organised as soon as possible, so you know plants, people and any extra furniture are booked for when you want them. Wedding planning can never start too soon. 

Garden Views: Spring lawn care tips

By Ken Brennen
Master Gardener

Thinking spring often means thinking about a lush spring lawn. Here are some tips for getting the typical Anoka County lawn off to a good start. But temper your enthusiasm. Don’t work on your lawn while it is wet or you’ll do more damage than good.

Most of our lawns are cool season Kentucky Bluegrass mixes that grow with spring and fall moisture and are dormant in warm dry summer weather. The best times to fertilize are during these growth periods. In the spring it is from mid-May to mid-June. Either a drop or rotary spreader will do. The most essential nutrient for grass is nitrogen, but look for a fertilizer labeled “slow release” nitrogen. Other types will give a quickly fading burst of green while adding to the earth’s nitrogen pollution and may leave ugly burn spots in your grass.

Nitrogen is only a fraction of the weight of any fertilizer. Lawn spreaders are calibrated to give two pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Check the back of the fertilizer bag for the recommended setting for your brand of spreader. Less is better than more because excess nitrogen can cause your grass plants to grow so fast they become scrawny and susceptible to a variety of lawn diseases.

Your lawn mower is your most important lawn maintenance tool. It can help you reduce water usage, fertilize the lawn, and prevent the growth of annual weeds. Keep it sharp so it cuts, rather than tears the grass. Set your mower height to two inches, then let your grass grow to about three inches before mowing. Longer grass shades the roots reducing the need for additional water. A secondary benefit of shading the roots is it prevents the growth of annual weed seeds which require sunlight to sprout, so your lawnmower can act like a pre-emergent weed killer.

Your mower will also help you fertilize your lawn by recycling that nitrogen you worked so hard to apply. Just let the clippings fall back on the lawn. They will quickly decompose, releasing their nitrogen back to the soil. Some folks worry about forming lawn-choking “thatch” from clippings, but lawn experts tell us thatch forms from the tough stems lower on the plant, not the leaf clippings.

As dry summer weather comes on you will have to water your lawn. The recommended rate is one inch per week preferably applied in two equal applications. Water in the morning so that the grass has a chance to dry quickly and lessen the chance of disease. To determine how much water you’ve applied place a flat container like a tuna fish cane on the lawn and check the depth. Much more lawn information is available at:  http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/lawns/

The Anoka County Master Gardeners invite you to visit our web page http://anokamastergardeners.org/ Click on Hot Topics for information about our plant sale, May 20-21 at Anoka Armory Center and the Plant Diagnostic Clinics, which offer expert help with your landscape and garden problems, starting mid-May.

Ken Breenen is an Anoka County Master Gardener.

4 Tips for “Green” Gardening from Avant Garden Decor

PHILADELPHIA, April 26, 2014 /PRNewswire/—What can be more natural and beneficial to the earth and the environment than Green Gardening? When gardeners use eco-friendly gardening techniques, they can get better results and save their gardens from damage done by chemicals.

A few simple gardening habits are all it takes to get started on the journey to “Green.”

1.) Efficient Watering: Cut down on water evaporation and waste by watering your gardens in the early morning or evening. Apply mulch to your garden beds to retain water moisture in your plants while also decreasing weed growth.

2.) Say Goodbye to Chemicals: Get rid of pesticides and chemical fertilizers and instead turn to organic weed killers and compost. Safer Brand has a line of organic products that is well-loved by gardeners for its effectiveness, in addition to its organic attributes. Most Safer Brand products are OMRI approved. Safer Brand EndALL kills over 40 different plant-attacking insects while keeping the environment safe. (http://www.avantgardendecor.com/store/insect-controls/b5102)

3.) Composting Made Easy: The hero in “Green” Gardening is the compost pile. By using leaves, grass clippings, fruit and vegetable skins, you can make compost and give your gardens a nutritional super-sized meal. This will not only cut down on waste and save money on expensive fertilizers, but will also enhance the soil with all necessary nutrients.

Start the composting process with Ringer Compost Plus Compost Maker, which uses a range of natural microorganisms to aid in material breakdown. In particular, Ringer Compost Plus combines thermophilic organisms that work at higher temperatures and contains specially designed nutrient sources that start the compost process more quickly and efficiently.(http://www.avantgardendecor.com/store/composting/2b3050)

4.) “Green” Hanging Flower Baskets: Flower gardening can get in on the “Green” movement as well when gardeners use the EcoLiner for their flower baskets and pots. EcoLiner is made with recycled materials and has higher water retention than traditionally used coco liners. In addition, the smoother lining of the EcoLiner gives flower gardeners a new and elegant look for their potted flowers. In addition to its eco-friendly attributes, it has the added benefit of being “Made in the USA.” (http://www.avantgardendecor.com/store/ecoliner/plb14)

These four, simple gardening habits are easy for every gardener to embrace as part of a “Green” gardening plan. By putting these tips into practice, the environment will be one step closer to sustainability for future generations.

Avant Garden Decor is a premier brand of innovative outdoor living decor, including the CobraCo Brand. From stylish planters and baskets, to flower boxes, plant stands, and fire pits, the CobraCo Brand is the outdoor entertainer’s choice for outdoor decor. Avant Garden Decor also offers Gardener’s Blue Ribbon brand of garden helpers, such as garden stakes, accessories, and various plant saucers that meet the demands of both gardening hobbyists and enthusiasts alike. Gardeners can contact Avant Garden Decor at www.avantgardendecor.com or 800-323-5800.

This press release was issued through 24-7PressRelease.com. For further information, visit http://www.24-7pressrelease.com.

SOURCE Avant Garden Decor

 

Lawn and Garden Feature: Lawn Care Tips

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Yard Works 728x90

A beautiful lawn does not come without some effort. Depending upon what type of soil you have, the amount of effort will vary. For instance when raising trees and shrubs, sandy or a gravel base soil is great. Landscape plants like well drained soiled. A lawn on the other hand is different. Lawn grasses grow constantly throughout the growing season, and need an ample supply of both nutrients and water.

The most basic of lawn care tips includes regular watering and fertilization is required to keep a lawn beautiful. If you’re lucky enough to have a lawn that was originally planted in good rich topsoil, you won’t have to work near as hard as somebody like me, who has a lawn that is planted in sandy gravel. The soil at our house has little nutritional value, nor does it have the ability to retain any amount of moisture. By mid-May my lawn starts drying out. It is very difficult for us to keep our lawn looking nice.

Lawns are one area where a little clay in the soil is a good thing. Of course standing water is not good, but having soil that has the ability to retain some moisture is helpful. If you happen to be installing a new lawn, here’s a news flash from my lawn care tips that will make all the difference in the world:  Add lots of organic matter before you install your new lawn if you have sand or gravel type soil.  The easiest way to do this is to find some good rich topsoil and spread that over your existing soil.

Because most lawn grasses grow so vigorously, they need additional amounts of nutrients added in order to stay looking nice. Just use one of the four step programs offered by the fertilizer companies. Most of these programs also include weed control along with the fertilizer. Here in the north we basically have two concerns with weeds in our lawns.

Crabgrass can be a problem, and I do consider it a weed. In order to control crabgrass you must use a pre-emergent herbicide that will prevent the crabgrass seeds from germinating. In order for this herbicide to be effective you must apply it early in the spring while the soil temperature is still below 45° F.

Broadleaf weeds such as Dandelions are another problem, although fairly easy to control with a broadleaf weed control. Most broadleaf herbicides are mixed in with the fertilizers, and must be applied when the grass and weeds are damp. The wet foliage will cause the herbicide to stick to the weed, giving the herbicide time to be absorbed by the weed. Once absorbed the herbicide translocates through the weed plant and kills it completely.

These types of herbicides are considered “selective” since they seem to know the difference between a grass plant and a weed. That’s why they only kill the broadleaf weeds and not the grass itself. However, many people have different kinds of thick bladed grass in their lawn such as quack grass.  Quack grass is on the ugly side, and can really detract from a lawn. The problem is, it is still in the grass family, and “selective” herbicides leave it alone because it is a card carry member of the grass family.

So what’s a person to do?

In order to get rid of these thick bladed grasses you must use a “non-selective” herbicide, and “non-selective” herbicides don’t care who they kill. Well, at least that’s true in the plant kingdom. When you use a “non-selective” herbicide you must understand that everything that you spray is going to die, but it really is the only effective way to rid your lawn of undesirable thick bladed grasses. This type of treatment is effective if you have isolated areas that contain wide bladed grasses. You’ll have to spray all the grass in the area, then reseed with good quality grass seed.

To keep the spray from drifting, adjust the nozzle so that the spray pattern is narrow with larger spray droplets. You do not want a fine atomized spray if there is danger of spray drift. It also helps to keep the pressure in the sprayer as low as possible. Pump the sprayer a minimum number of times, to keep the pressure low. You just want enough pressure to deliver the spray, but not atomize it to the point that it can be easily carried by the wind.

Buy a sprayer just for herbicides and mark it as such. You never want to spray plants with a sprayer that has been used for herbicides.

Once you have sprayed the area you want to kill, wait three days before doing anything else. After a period of three days the grasses that you sprayed may not look any different, but if they have been properly sprayed, they will die. It takes three days for the herbicide to translocate throughout the entire plant, then the plants will die. So even though the weeds and grass plants look fine, you can start digging and chopping and not worry about them growing back. If you start digging and chopping before the three day period you will interrupt the herbicide, and the weeds and grass you were trying to kill may come back.

If you happen to be installing a new lawn, make sure you spray all the weeds and thick bladed grasses before you start. Once you have the lawn installed, you sure don’t want to go through all the trouble of killing areas of your lawn and reseeding. If you make sure that all of these undesirables have been killed before you start, you’ll be way ahead of the game.

When selecting grass seed, you should always use a blend that is recommend for your area. Here in the north a popular blend contains fine bladed perennial rye grass, fescue, and blue grass. Keep in mind that it takes blue grass seeds 28 days to germinate, while most perennial rye grasses germinate in 5 or 6 days, so you never want to plant a lawn that is 100% Kentucky blue grass. Before the blue grass seeds have a chance to germinate, every kind of weed imaginable will already be actively growing in your lawn.

With a blend, the faster germinating grasses come up quick, and act as a nurse crop for the slower germinating seeds. Having a blend also gives you some protection in case some new pest comes along that attack certain types of grasses.

Visit http://www.freeplants.com for more articles by Michael J. McGroarty

Gardening Guru Tips — Elevate Your Gardening Success – Juneau County Star

Don’t let a sore back, bad knees or lousy soil stop you from gardening. Elevate your garden for easier access and better gardening results. The simple act of creating a raised bed improves drainage in heavy clay soil. Add in some organic matter to further increase drainage and improve the water-holding ability for sandy soils.

And if your soil is beyond repair or you don’t want to wait, a raised garden allows you to bring in quality soil and create a garden right on top of the existing soil or even paved areas. The quality soil and easy access will allow for dense plantings without pathways. This means greater yields, up to four times more, in raised beds than in-ground gardens.

Raised beds also help conserve water. You’ll concentrate your growing efforts in smaller areas and that means less water wasted. Increase the benefit by using soaker hoses or drip irrigation in order to concentrate water application to the soil nearest the plants, right where it is needed.

Make your raised bed a comfortable height. Elevating the garden minimizes bending and kneeling. Design raised beds in corners or edges suited for sitting or areas narrow enough to set a garden bench alongside for easy access.

Design raised gardens so they are narrow enough for gardeners to easily reach all plants growing within the garden. Or include steppers or pathways if creating larger raised garden areas.

Add a mowing strip around the edge of the raised bed. A narrow strip of mulch or pavers set level with the soil surface keep the area tidy and eliminate the need for hand trimming.

Select a material suited to your landscape design. Wood, brick and stones have long been used to create raised beds. Consider using materials that are long-lasting and easy to assemble, like Lexington Planter Stone (lexingtonseries.com). These stone sections can be set right on the ground, fit together easily, and can be arranged and stacked to make planters the size, shape and height desired.

Start a raised bed garden by measuring and marking the desired size and shape. Remove the existing grass and level the area. For taller raised gardens edge the bed, cut the grass short and cover with newspaper or cardboard prior to filling with soil. Be sure to follow directions for the system being installed.

Once the raised bed is complete, fill it with quality soil. Calculate the volume of soil needed by multiplying the length times the width times the height of the raised bed, making sure all measurements are in feet. Convert the cubic feet measurement to cubic yards by dividing it by 27 – the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard. For a 4×8-foot raised bed that is 2 feet deep you would multiply 4 x 8 x 2. This equals 64 cubic feet. Divide by 27 and you will need just a bit more than 1 cubic yard of soil. Don’t let the math overwhelm you; most topsoil companies and garden center staff can help you with the calculations. Just be sure to have the raised bed dimensions handy when you order your soil.

The best part is that this one-time investment of time and effort will pay off with years of gardening success.

4 Tips for "Green" Gardening from Avant Garden Decor – SYS

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PHILADELPHIA, April 26, 2014 /PRNewswire/ — What can be more natural and beneficial to the earth and the environment than Green Gardening? When gardeners use eco-friendly gardening techniques, they can get better results and save their gardens from damage done by chemicals.

A few simple gardening habits are all it takes to get started on the journey to “Green.”

1.) Efficient Watering: Cut down on water evaporation and waste by watering your gardens in the early morning or evening. Apply mulch to your garden beds to retain water moisture in your plants while also decreasing weed growth.

2.) Say Goodbye to Chemicals: Get rid of pesticides and chemical fertilizers and instead turn to organic weed killers and compost. Safer Brand has a line of organic products that is well-loved by gardeners for its effectiveness, in addition to its organic attributes. Most Safer Brand products are OMRI approved. Safer Brand EndALL kills over 40 different plant-attacking insects while keeping the environment safe. (http://www.avantgardendecor.com/store/insect-controls/b5102)

3.) Composting Made Easy: The hero in “Green” Gardening is the compost pile. By using leaves, grass clippings, fruit and vegetable skins, you can make compost and give your gardens a nutritional super-sized meal. This will not only cut down on waste and save money on expensive fertilizers, but will also enhance the soil with all necessary nutrients.

Start the composting process with Ringer Compost Plus Compost Maker, which uses a range of natural microorganisms to aid in material breakdown. In particular, Ringer Compost Plus combines thermophilic organisms that work at higher temperatures and contains specially designed nutrient sources that start the compost process more quickly and efficiently.(http://www.avantgardendecor.com/store/composting/2b3050)

4.) “Green” Hanging Flower Baskets: Flower gardening can get in on the “Green” movement as well when gardeners use the EcoLiner for their flower baskets and pots. EcoLiner is made with recycled materials and has higher water retention than traditionally used coco liners. In addition, the smoother lining of the EcoLiner gives flower gardeners a new and elegant look for their potted flowers. In addition to its eco-friendly attributes, it has the added benefit of being “Made in the USA.” (http://www.avantgardendecor.com/store/ecoliner/plb14)

These four, simple gardening habits are easy for every gardener to embrace as part of a “Green” gardening plan. By putting these tips into practice, the environment will be one step closer to sustainability for future generations.

Avant Garden Decor is a premier brand of innovative outdoor living decor, including the CobraCo Brand. From stylish planters and baskets, to flower boxes, plant stands, and fire pits, the CobraCo Brand is the outdoor entertainer’s choice for outdoor decor. Avant Garden Decor also offers Gardener’s Blue Ribbon brand of garden helpers, such as garden stakes, accessories, and various plant saucers that meet the demands of both gardening hobbyists and enthusiasts alike. Gardeners can contact Avant Garden Decor at www.avantgardendecor.com or 800-323-5800.

This press release was issued through 24-7PressRelease.com. For further information, visit http://www.24-7pressrelease.com.

SOURCE Avant Garden Decor

Lawn & Garden Feature: Spring Planning Tips

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Yard Works 728x90

Spring means that the garden centers are packed with people, and car trunks are packed with plants. Everybody has dirt on their knees, dirt under their nails, and are excited about gardening. To make certain that this excitement yields positive results, let’s discuss the basics of spring planting.

Installing new plants and having them grow successfully is not difficult, nor is it as complicated as some would have you think. Is it as easy as just digging a hole and setting the plant in? Yes, it certainly can be.

Let’s start with BB plants. BB is short for balled in burlap. Closely examine the ball on the plant that you have purchased. Did the diggers wrap twine around the ball to hold the plant secure? If they did, you should at least cut the twine and lay it in the bottom of the hole, or remove it completely. Pay close attention around the stem of the plant where it emerges from the root ball, as diggers often wrap the twine around the stem several times as they tie the ball. This is extremely important because if the string is nylon, it will not rot and will girdle and kill the plant two or three years from now.

When BB plants are stored in the nursery for extended periods of time it becomes necessary to re-burlap them if the bottom starts to rot before the plants are sold. If the plant that you buy has been re-burlaped it is possible that there could be nylon stings between the two layers of burlap, check the stem carefully. As long as the nylon string is removed from around the stem of the plant, it is actually harmless around the rest of the ball, and you do not have to remove it.

Is the root ball wrapped in genuine burlap, or imitation burlap made of a non-biodegradable plastic material?

Genuine burlap will rot quickly underground and does not have to be disturbed before planting. If you’re not sure or suspect a poly type burlap, you don’t have to remove it completely, but should loosen it around the stem of the plant and cut some vertical slices around the circumference of the ball.

Now here’s the critical part. What kind of soil are you planting in?

If your soil is heavy clay, I highly suggest that your raise the planting bed at least 8” with good rich topsoil. If you can’t do that for some reason, install the plant so that at least 2” or more of the root ball is above the existing grade and mound the soil over the root ball. Keep in mind that plants installed this way could dry out over the summer, but planting them flush with the ground in heavy clay can mean that the roots will be too wet at other times of the year.

The “experts” suggest that when planting in clay soil you dig the hole wider and deeper than the root ball and fill around and under the plant with loose organic material. That sounds like a really great idea doesn’t it? Some of these experts also recommend that you dig the hole extra deep and put a few inches of gravel in the bottom for drainage. Where do you suppose they think this water is going to “drain” to?

Keep in mind that most BB plants are grown in well drained soil. That means that the soil in the root ball is porous and water can easily pass through. Now imagine if you will, a root ball about 15” in diameter, setting in a hole 30” diameter. All around and under that root ball is loose organic matter. Inside of that root ball is porous soil. Now along comes Mother Nature with a torrential downpour. There is water everywhere, and it is not going to soak into that hard packed clay soil, so it is just flowing across the top of the ground searching for the lowest point.

When it reaches our newly planted tree surrounded by loose organic matter, it is going to seep in until the planting hole is completely full of water. (Remember my article on getting rid of standing water and the French drain system?) By using this planting technique we have actually created a French drain around our poor little plant that cannot tolerate its roots being without oxygen for long periods of time. Because the bottom of this hole is clay, even though we’ve added gravel for drainage, there is nowhere for the water to go, and this plant is going to suffer and likely die.

If you cannot raise the planting bed with topsoil, and are planting in clay soil, I recommend that you install the root ball at least 2” above grade and backfill around the ball with the soil that you removed when you dug the hole. Backfilling with the clay soil that you removed is actually like building a dam to keep excess water from permeating the root ball of your newly planted tree. The plant is not going to thrive in this poor soil, but at least it will have a chance to survive.

Once again, raising the bed with good rich topsoil is the best thing you can do to keep your plants healthy and happy.

No matter what kind of soil you have, be careful not to install your plants too deep. They should never be planted any deeper than they were grown in the nursery. Planting too deep is a common problem, and thousands of plants are killed each year by gardeners who just don’t understand how critical planting depth is.

Visit http://www.freeplants.com for more articles by Michael J. McGroarty

 

Gardening tips: Local authors says insects are good for garden ecosystem

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With the snow finally receding and the mud drying out, gardeners rejoice! To see the crust of the earth give way to new plant life is all the sweeter this year after a record making winter.

At 1 p.m. Wednesday, April 30, authors and gardeners Reeser Manley and Marjorie Peronto will conduct a PowerPoint presentation focused on the major themes of their book “The New England Gardener’s Year” (Tilbury House), including the important role of insects in the garden ecosystem.

Gardening success depends on insects, including pollinators and the many kinds of insect predators that keep the herbivores (plant munchers) under control. Of course, to keep the beneficial insects around, the garden must also have a constant population of herbivores for the beneficials to eat.

This presentation will show viewers how they can attract the pollinators and beneficial insects. It will also point out that caterpillars, the larvae of butterflies and moths, are what bird food looks like.

After the presentation, Reeser and Marjorie will introduce their book, “The New England Gardener’s Year,” followed by a book signing for those interested in purchasing their book.

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Garden designer Jan Johnsen’s tips on how to add serenity to your garden

Garden designer Jan Johnsen says that a serene landscape consists of three primary features: simplicity, sanctuary and delight.

“Delight is anything that gladdens your heart: a hollowed out tree trunk, an interesting gate or an elegant stone lion,” she writes in the first chapter of her new book, “Heaven is a Garden: Designing Serene Spaces for Inspiration and Reflection.” “It is the most personal aspect of a heavenly outdoor space and can be found amidst a patio flush with planters or in a woodland garden dotted with foamflowers and ferns. You may thrill to a fire pit or bubbling fountain. Delight prompts you to savor your surroundings.”

To give a garden a sense of serenity, here are a few things Johnson, who lives in Croton-on-Hudson, likes to add to the landscapes she designs.

Ornamental trees — “I like smaller trees such as Japanese maples, flowering cherries or dogwoods in a garden. They add a special touch. I particularly like ‘Coralbark’ Japanese maple for its bright red stems in late winter and early spring.”

Big boulders — “If I find rocks or rock outcrops on a property I make sure to highlight them. Large boulders infuse a sense of stability into a scene. Large rocks seem to ‘ground’ us. I love to sit on them whenever I can and I think others like it as well.”

Color – “Color is nature’s catalyst and affects us profoundly. I always try to add a colorful accent in a garden. It can be a blue gate, a green wall or a yellow bench. The cool colors are the best for creating a calm atmosphere, but I have to admit I also love a tiny punch of red.”

Crabapple berries light up a garden in the fall – and provide food for birds. Photos by Jan Johnsen.

Grass steps — “These are grass treads with stone or brick risers. The line of long grass steps can create a lovely, calming shape in a garden.”

Jan Johnsen’s signature grass steps, at a property she designed in Bedford. “Long grassed steps make a property less steep,” she writes in her new book.

Stacked stones — “The sight of a simple tower of rounded rocks can be a nice cue that you are in a serene setting. Sometimes I will have people stack the rocks themselves as a fun activity!”

Asian statues — “Right now a popular request is for gardens that feature statues of Buddha or Asian deities. I think it is the meditative atmosphere of such outdoor settings that is so enticing.”

Sanctuary — “In my book I talk about ‘the lure of the sheltered corner.’ I always try to add a sitting spot that is protected on one side with a view out to the yard or beyond. People love this feeling of being partially enclosed.”

Ah, the lure of a sheltered corner in a garden. Here, lush purple hydrangeas soften a stone wall and provide a welcome backdrop for a wooden bench in the Manleys’ garden in Chappaqua.