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Gardening: Landlubbers’ sea change

There are many times when I curse the stream on our property, particularly when it submerges the garden. But last time this happened there was an upside.

A huge piece of driftwood, presumably liberated from someone else’s garden alongside the same stream, beached itself on our bank.

I might have considered wandering upstream until I found its owner, had I not been busy wandering downstream looking for our two teak loungers and the garden shed and contents that had washed away.

So the piece of driftwood, which brought a couple of smaller pals with it, has been incorporated into a new, coastal-themed garden under construction, and we’re now beachcombing with a passion to find more pieces.

When you’re a garden designer on a mission, the flotsam and jetsam washed in by the tide ceases to be rubbish, becoming art instead.

The bleached skulls of unidentifiable dead things, old oars, buoys, rope, driftwood, shells and bits of boat are carted home in the car boot, along with seaweed, if there is any, to await their resurrection in the garden.

I’ve always been a bit disparaging about the themed gardens I’ve seen – and there have been many – but I have to admit that the coastal ones are fun.

And if you live on the coast you have every excuse for doing one because the sand-salt-seabreeze environment demands quite specific design and planting.

Landscape materials for coastal gardens are fairly simple – old, weathered timber, shells, corrugated iron, boardwalks and blue paint. Look out on the auctions sites, at garage sales and junk shops for buoys, fishing nets, fishing rods, cray pots, coils of rope and oars. Best not to tell friends you’re collecting coastal junk or you’ll have their dead waders and broken outboard motors on your doorstep.

A beach-themed garden works well with contemporary elements, so if you want to incorporate a few modern touches, buy a trendy shade sail and add a couple of retro timber and striped canvas deck chairs.

If your coast-themed garden isn’t anywhere near the coast you can plant what you like, but if you are beset by salt winds and sandy soil, check out the plants that are growing well around your area.

Take particular note of any civic landscaping nearby – the council may have had access to good research and more time and money than you have to experiment.

If yours is a windy area and your soil is sandy and loose, anchor your plants until they get established.

Put stones or driftwood on top of the soil until the plants can look after themselves.

Give them shelter – a beachy corrugated iron fence hung with old nets and bits of driftwood will look cool and keep your plants out of the salt winds.

And then try some of these:

Ceanothus – a hardy shrub with bright blue flowers.

Daisies – the most popular coastal plant. They naturalise quickly, spread happily and look colourful.

Geraniums – as above, and they love hot, dry conditions.

Wormwood – it’s a silver foliage shrub so it likes the dry and has great foliage.

Leucospernums – great flowers and foliage.

Lavender – they’ll think they’re in the Med and perform beautifully.

Gazania – brilliant ground cover, use for all year round colour breaks.

Succulents – ever seen a dead one? They survive just about anything.

Olives – if you have space for a specimen tree this is a silver-foliaged heat lover that won’t mind it dry.

Gardening: Ripe fruit all in a row

Meg Liptrot gives her fruit trees a shoulder to grow on and reaps a generous crop.

An espaliered pear squeezes nicely in the waste space down the side of a house. Photo / Meg Liptrot

Fruit trees are the most productive plants you can grow per square metre, when compared with veges. It may take a bit of practice to get right, but once you’ve mastered it, espaliering fruit along a fence is an effective fruit-growing technique.

There is a long history of fruit-growing using vertical structures. In Europe, picturesque walled gardens, often in stone or brick or a combination of both, feature fruit trees trained against walls. The term “espalier” comes from France, but originates from the Italian word “spalliera”, which means “something to rest the shoulder (spalla) against”. Ultimately, the word refers to the training of a fruit tree along a fence or against a wall.

In parts of the Southern Hemisphere, where winters are cold, growing fruit against solid walls facing the sun ensures ideal growing conditions. Solid walls which have thermal mass retain heat during the day when direct sun hits their surface. When the sun sets, the heat continues to emanate from the wall, heating cold-sensitive plants and encouraging the ripening of fruit.

Deciduous fruit trees, such as pears, suit a tiered, horizontal method of espaliering. This technique involves securing selected branches when they are pliable and young and every year pruning and training the next tier of branches, and pruning back vegetative growth in favour of fruiting spurs.

When branches grow vertically, they will put out more non-fruiting “vegetative” growth, because of the hormones found in the tips of growing shoots. Flower buds and fruit are encouraged when branches are in a more or less horizontal or vase position.

Structure and design

The best wall on which to espalier in the Southern Hemisphere is north-facing, with the wall running from east to west. This ensures the tree grows evenly and branches do not constantly grow in one direction to reach the sun.

At our property we have only a few possible spots for espaliering fruit. One sturdy timber fence down the side of our house runs north to south and faces west, which isn’t ideal but still works. I have secured two horizontal Number 8 wires to run the length of the fence, one at just over a metre high, the other 1.5m high. Here, I have espaliered a pear tree, with the third tier growing along the top of the 2m fence. We’ve used our southeast facing Brustics panels to support fan-trained figs by hooking loose wire loops into the panels to hold the branches in shape.

To screen an unsightly metal shed in a client’s garden, I designed a sturdy frame on which to espalier a plum. The frame consisted of black-lacquered, rust-proofed reinforcing iron bars, threaded through three support posts. Alternatively, masonry walls allow the option of drilling eye bolts and attaching lengths of stainless cable along which to tie branches.

How to

Select three healthy looking shoots from your main trunk and remove the rest, they will all grow to a similar length. Once the branches have reached almost the desired length and they are still flexible, start training them into a “v” – one branch to the left, one to the right – and leave the other to grow upwards.

These branches can be tied with soft fabric ties at a 45-degree angle. They will continue growing.

At the end of the growing season, usually in autumn, the stems can be tied down to their final horizontal position. You should by now have two branches trained along the wall and they should be relatively even in length.

The branch that is still growing upwards should be pruned at around 60cm long. The cut should be angled at 45 degrees about 1cm from a bud and pointing in the direction that you want your uppermost branch to go. Below this should be at least two more healthy buds and one for good measure. Next growing season you will have three more strongly growing shoots to create the next tier in your espalier, and so on. Espaliered pears suit three or four tiers for best fruit production.

Summer prune any unwanted vegetative growth by two thirds to encourage fruiting spurs, or wind the shoots into your horizontal structure, gently securing them in place.

Plant choice

Most deciduous fruit trees suit espaliering. Dwarfing apples, for example, are available to buy as a pole-like “cordon”. Even though double- or triple-grafted fruit trees are great choices for small gardens in terms of pollination, it’s better to have two separate trees espaliered for your pollination requirements, or to select a self-fertile variety.

In a rush of enthusiasm years ago, I chose a triple-grafted pear. This made the job more difficult as I have a few different varieties as branches growing at different speeds on the same tree. You also must label very clearly where your varieties are to avoid pruning a feeble branch only to realise it was one of your grafted branches. I have managed to avoid this so far.

Also, find out whether the variety of fruit you are interested in is “tip” or “spur bearing”. “Tip bearing” means the fruit form at the end of branches and shoots. “Spur bearing” means fruit are produced along the length of a branch. It is quite hard to prune an espalier attractively when you have “tip bearing” branches and the whole thing gets overgrown, or you get no fruit at all in an attempt at tidiness. “Spur bearing” is the way to go. Make sure you get advice from the fruit expert at your garden centre.

Supercharge the vege garden

Have you caught the edible gardening bug and are keen to take your edible garden to the next level? A recently launched website, podgardening.co.nz, is worth a look. Pod is a partnership between Paul Thompson, NZ Gardener columnist and a former presenter on Maggie’s Garden Show, and Viv Stone, a producer and web designer.

The website, and its Facebook page, www.facebook.com/PodGardening, offer free advice and “help for anyone growing or wanting to grow their own fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers using natural and sustainable methods”.

Paul is a passionate organic gardener and natural presenter, and his enthusiasm shines through in the Pod TV section, where clips can be viewed on subjects ranging from liquid manures to beneficial insects, and how to grow seasonal crops. He lives with his young family in Piha and his love of the natural life is clear in the photos and clips.

Points of difference which caught my eye were the photo essays and interviews with interesting people, such as sculptor Andrew Drummond, and their gardens.

The viewer gets a sneak peek behind the garden fence for some tantalising inspiration, with new profiles popping up monthly.

Pod’s recipe section features dishes by guest chefs and seasonal inspiration for the kitchen.

Pod’s Top 5 Seed Bundles with funky designs are arranged around five themes: Fast, Easy, Saver, Eco and Daring, to make seed selection for your vege garden that little bit simpler.

* We have five prizes to win, each consisting of 10 packets of seeds from Pod’s Top 5 selections for November. To enter the draw email winwithheraldonsunday.co.nz and enter the keyword “Pod” along with your details. Entries close at 11.59pm on Wednesday, October 31.

By Meg Liptrot

France’s president opens Elysee garden to public

International News

France’s president opens Elysee garden to public
October 28, 2012 13:33 GMT

PARIS (AP) — Hundreds of Parisians and tourists lined up Sunday to get a rare chance to visit the gardens of France’s presidential palace.

Visitors were taking advantage of a new policy inaugurated by President Francois Hollande to open the 18th-century Elysee Palace gardens to the public every last Sunday of the month. In the past, the palace and gardens were only open to the public once a year on France’s Heritage Days weekend in September.

Access to the gardens is just off the Champs Elysee avenue via an ornate wrought-iron gate topped with gilt rooster, the French national symbol.

The gardens are open from noon to 5 p.m. the last Sunday of the month from October to March, and from 1 p.m. to 7 p.m. from April to September.

Gardens: Gavin and Mary Bain’s ‘little pizza paradise’ near Dundee

WHEN a designer enthuses about his client’s cooking skills with mouth-watering descriptions of crisp potato and blue cheese pizzas, a soup and a lemon tart enjoyed in a finished garden, it is safe to assume the garden design project was a success.

And when the client, who “didn’t know anything about plants”, and had at the outset no intention of gardening tells you he recently planted 150 tulips and enjoys weeding on a Saturday morning because “it’s good for the hangover”, you know all is well.

At the heart of it is the medium-size garden designed by Sam Walker from Red Oxide for Gavin and Mary Bain to the rear of their recently-built house in a semi-rural landscape between Kellas and Redbank near Dundee. The sunny, south-east-facing plot in a raised, open position was windy and the couple had done little beyond identify a west-facing area to build a patio. Just a low drystane wall separated the front of the house from the road outside, a feature Gavin was keen to retain as he enjoys chatting to passing neighbours.

Gavin explains: “I am a keen cook and wanted to grow some herbs, but we didn’t know how to set about improving the garden.” He also wanted a pizza oven and had thought of using a kit to build one.

An internet search for a designer yielded one or two ideas but what really caught the couple’s attention was an advert describing Thornhill-based Red Oxide’s services. “We talked to one or two people,” Gavin says, “but when Sam came to see the garden he blew us away with his ideas.”

Before Sam had time to identify that his clients “wanted something quietly elegant and modern,” the deal was clinched when Sam, also a keen cook, suggested building a pizza oven, rather than assembling one from a kit. Shortly thereafter he established a need for privacy for the couple and their baby, Harris, shelter from the wind and a low-maintenance planting scheme that would suit non-gardeners.

Privacy and shelter around the patio area were addressed by the design and construction of a highly original, crisp and stylish fence. Sam explains: “We used smooth-finished timbers in six different widths, which were pressure treated. The result makes a fantastic statement at night with uplighters washing light up it.”

Herbs were cleverly incorporated into the seating area. Here, a rendered concrete bench topped with paving was designed to double as seating whilst retaining the planting area behind. “The aim was to provide a herb garden and scented seating area with a splendid backdrop,” Sam says. As a contrast to the wooden verticals, he added soft, textured grasses with height and movement coming from fennel combined with tall, delicate purple sprays of Verbena bonariensis. Splashes of pink Lychnis coronaria add a touch of drama with more scent coming from Rosemary and lemon verbena.

The wider garden was enclosed by a second, more substantial, fence which gives shelter and privacy. Constructed using 300x300mm section posts cut and treated to order, this fence, Sam says, “is elephant proof”. And yet it retains an elegant quality inkeeping with the contemporary style and feel of the overall design. Sam says: “The posts are large but they have great rhythm and presence and, like the patio fence, have the benefit of looking dramatic uplit 
at night.”

While a large area west of the house was returfed and laid down to lawn, the patio was paved with blue slate laid in bands for a contemporary feel. “For detail we used sawn grey granite setts for a number of the bands giving a contrast in colour and texture. The four planting beds break up the paving space a little and create a softer silhouette,” explains Sam, who carries out the majority of the work using his own team.

By the time the mixed perimeter border planted for year-round interest had been in place for a couple of weeks, Gavin was hooked. Here, cardoons, hostas, anemonies, peonies, honeysuckle and clematis jostle for position, adding a note of old-fashioned romance. “Sam encouraged us,” Gavin says “and got us enthused.”

By this stage the team had reached the point everyone was waiting for: the construction of the pizza oven. Gavin, who had had dough-making lessons at Visocchi’s café and ice cream shop in Broughty Ferry, understood the system and knew what he wanted.

Siting the oven, Sam explains, was key, as enough room needs to be allowed to manoeuvre the pizza peel, or shovel, away from the sitting area. “It was situated so that you can see how the fire is doing from the kitchen.” As a result, the oven now forms a functional focal point of the garden and has even been used to cook Christmas lunch.

The igloo-shaped oven was installed above a raised cooking floor. Sam explains: “The fire is pushed to the sides when it’s time to cook. For pizza you get it ridiculously hot, cook it in three minutes, and it tastes amazing. Then as the oven cools you cook meat or roast vegetables with great smoky and caramelised crispy bits.”

Sam Walker, Red Oxide Contemporary Landscape Design (01786 850 210, www.redoxide.co.uk)

Symmetrical cactus sets off modern design

The orderly nature of modern design appeals to our need for simplicity in a progressively complex world. The simple lines of both modern architecture and interiors offers respite from strip commercial, traffic and media where color and image change faster than ever.

There has been difficulty in understanding the relationship of plants to this style.

But one group of plants seems intrinsically suited to modern design. It is the cactus, but not all of them. Specific types of cacti are so remarkable in their symmetry that it is difficult to believe they are living things. Moreover, their uniformity of growth is so rigid that many individual plants can be used to create pattern and shape on a small scale.

Cacti best suited to modern design have round, symmetrical forms. These are often perfect globes that remain so throughout their lives. Only with time do they grow larger in size, but their surface details are static.

At Sunnylands, the former estate of the Annenberg family, an innovative modern garden was completed just over a year ago. Within its confines are examples of cactus in modern architecture on a grand scale, illustrating how to exploit uniformity of growth. However, the Achilles heel of such rigid uniform plantings is the reality that these are plants, and plants will die or sometimes be unpredictable. If one of 100 identical golden cacti is lost, only a replacement of the exact size and age can fill the void.

Cacti are perhaps even better suited to modern interiors. Whether an apartment in New York City or an expansive period restoration in Palm Springs, Calif., the role of cactus as interior decor remains paramount. So long as there is adequate light, and with most modern homes there is, these plants can become highly decorative elements. Here, too, the uniformity of growth allows multiplicity in design, with a series of identical plants emphasizing line or highlighting space.

To use cactus for decorative elements, it is essential to understand their primary needs to maintain perfect health and appearance over time.

Above all, cacti hail from areas of express drainage, which may be a ledge on a cliff face or a dry wash of nothing but sand and gravel. Any container selected to hold a cactus plant must be extremely well drained. Ensure this by choosing a pot with a very large drain hole in the bottom or with many perforations that enhance drainage potential throughout the soil mass.

Cactuses are watered so infrequently that a saucer is unnecessary. The key: The entire soil mass must be saturated, which can be done only if the pot is moved to a sink or bathtub for watering. There, it can either be set in water to wick moisture upward through the drain holes, or watered from the top by filling and allowing it to drain through a number of times consecutively.

Once saturated and entirely drained, the pot may be replaced to its original position. If you’re worried about damaging the underlying surface, you can set a simple glass disk or tile underneath without jeopardizing the simplicity of its appearance.

There are more species of cactus grown in volume today than ever before. Gold, purple, maroon and blue are all color options provided by this willing group. When set in the perfect pot, each becomes a living sculpture. Whether a single specimen or a number of identical candidates, they remain perfectly streamlined and tidy living things to bring nature into the all too spartan interiors of today’s modern homes and rooms.

Rotary Gardens win AAS landscape design nod

— In the plant world, exposure can be a good thing.

Rotary Botanical Gardens category win in the All America Selections Landscape Design Contest will help it gain some valuable exposure on a national scale.

“We’ll see our name in national magazines and other garden publications,� said Mark Dwyer, horticulture director. “We’re so pleased with winning, but also realize all the publicity—information sent out to 6,000 sources—we’ll get.�

All 175 AAS display gardens across the country were invited to participate in the competition, which was divided into three categories based on number of visitors.

Rotary Gardens entered in the largest category, more than 100,000 visitors each year, which included gardens such as the Denver and Chicago botanical gardens, Dwyer said.

“They were all considerably larger with larger budgets so I knew we would have some stiff competition,� he said.

Although Dwyer was confident about Rotary Gardens’ display, he still was surprised it took top honors.

“We are very proud of our display, considering the drought and the work involved,’’ he said.

The contest required each entry to have a minimum of 50 percent of its total landscaped area comprised of past and present AAS winners, labeled with the variety name and the AAS logo, according to the group’s website.

In a news release about contest winners, AAS wrote:

“Rotary Botanical Gardens reigned supreme in gardens … with its expertly designed garden beds that were bursting with color. Rotary used an impressive 127 AAS winners in its landscape design—the highest number of any contest entry.�

“The criteria for judging by a panel of independent garden experts nationwide was based on different factors, such as design and how the display was promoted to get the public to see it,� he said.

When Dwyer submitted the final product it included a report and pictures of the landscape area empty, being planted by volunteers, and finally the end result, he said.

Denver Botanic Gardens in Colorado finished second and Marjory McNeely Conservatory, Minneapolis, finished third behind Rotary Gardens.

“Denver and Chicago would be considered in the top 10 botanical gardens in the country,� Dwyer said. “So I envision people coming to Rotary Gardens to see what we’re doing.�

Teague: The buzz word is sustainability

Sustainability in gardening and landscaping has been a bit difficult to define and to explain to the home gardener. But increasingly, sustainability has become a major issue as gardeners are urged to join in efforts “to protect and conserve our water and other natural resources.”

The last phrase is a direct quote from the University of California’s website on Central Valley Friendly Landscaping (www.uncanr.org/CVFriendlyLandscaping). The Fresno County Master Gardeners UCCE have joined with the cities of Fresno and Clovis, the Fresno Metropolitan Flood Control District and the Clovis Botanical Garden in recognizing homeowners who have installed sustainable landscapes and who follow sustainable gardening practices. Photos on the website portray gardens of the winners of the 2011 CV Friendly Landscape Awards. The landscaping styles of the gardens vary considerably; all are beautiful, as might be expected. It’s what is not shown in the photos that is most impressive.

The website includes an application form for entering the competition. The list of nine required sustainable practices on the application is a real eye-opener — mostly because the practices follow basic common sense and are so easily implemented — and because consistently adhering to these fairly simple practices can have such a beneficial effect on our environment.

Sustainability begins with 1) choosing only plants that require minimal water, suitable for our arid climate (“Sunset Western Gardener’s” Zones 8 and 9). 2) Hosing off hard surfaces and allowing water, debris and pollutants to run into the gutters or street drains is not allowed. 3) Lawns, if any, must be mowed at the appropriate height for the grass type so that no more than one-third the blade is removed at each mowing. 4) Fertilizers are applied by need, not by schedule, and only organic or slow-release fertilizers can be applied. 5) Irrigation is also by need and on the city’s mandated schedule. 6) Sprinklers are turned off during rain storms. 7 and 8) Irrigation systems are monitored monthly to make adjustments and check for problems, and repairs are made promptly. 9) Any irrigation by a hose or a manual system is on on a timer, such as a kitchen timer.

Homeowners must also choose among other sustainable practices such as converting sprinklers to drip irrigation or soaker hoses, channeling and saving rain water for use in the garden, discontinuation of the use of pesticides and herbicides, buying plants from local sources, using hand-powered tools (rakes, shears, etc.) or electric hedgers and mowers or blowers, installing water-permeable hardscape materials, and placing all garden debris into the green waste bins or into a compost pile.

Tips for plants when it freezes – KOAM

During the fall plants like mums can typically be found in pots on porches, but when the weather drops to the low 30’s, a freeze is something you should worry about.

Freezing is something Pittsburg resident Colton Boyer says can be a problem.

“It’s not so much the actual cold that is too bad, it’s whenever it frosts when its that bad, so I didn’t want it to do that,” says Boyer.

There are two tips local gardening and landscaping companies suggest when temperatures get as cool as they are now:  bring your potted tropical plants inside and make sure your plants outside are staying properly watered.

“The main thing you have when you have a freeze or a frost coming, is to make sure your plants are adequately watered,” says Bob Schooley of Garden Center Seasons Nursery in Pittsburg.  “If they freeze dry you’re going to have damage.  When you water the ground and you water your plants and it does freeze you’re going to form a crust over it and it’s going to keep the cold air from driving down into the ground and damaging the roots.”

Charis Emmerling from In The Garden agrees, but says when bringing plants inside, think about using insecticides.

“Before we have any good hard freezes, you want to go ahead and spray them down, check and then maybe spray them down with an insecticide, so that you’re not bringing in aphids, spider mites, or other pests,” says Emmerling.

Specialists say that Fall is the time to plant things like trees and shrubs, but to just make sure everything that is kept outside is being watered as close to the ground as possible.

Fall into gardening indoors

Gardening authority and author Tovah Martin uses her own home in Roxbury, Conn., to illustrate all the possibilities of indoor gardening in a new book, “The Unexpected Houseplant: 220 Extraordinary Choices for Every Spot in Your Home” (Timber Press, $22.95). She begins the book in fall, and follows with plants and care tips for every season. Some of her choices might surprise you.

“I never felt I had to limit my houseplants to what supermarkets tell me are houseplants,” she explains. “Anything I can grow indoors, I do. In many ways, my indoor garden is reminiscent of the garden outdoors. They may not be officially sanctioned houseplants, but they work.”

Nor is Martin one to leave houseplants in the plastic pots they come home in. She strives to be creative with her containers, using them to add a decorative touch to her rooms.

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“People need to think of houseplants as little masterpieces,” she says.

Leaf through her book to see the possibilities. A compact Calamondin orange tree sits by the window in a rugged-looking white square pot. It bears fruit and fills the room with fragrance. (Scent is important. “Think of your house as a perfume bottle,” Martin urges.) Conifers, like the dwarf juniper variety known as “Nana,” are set in tall pots to provide the needed room for roots to dig deep into the soil. And even though Martin is a vegetarian, she happily tends a carnivorous pitcher plant, setting its blocklike container in a pan of water to slake the plant’s mighty thirst.

“I’m not a plant snob, I’m really not,” Martin says. “I am always seeing something and saying I have just the right thing to make that look great.”

Martin’s book makes use of a very vinelike typeface on the cover and in the section headings. It’s an apt and deliberate choice.

“When I lecture, I open with the vine. A plant twining its way through your life says it all,” she said. The type is a visual reinforcement of what Martin sees as an essential connection to nature, a link she believes is made even more intimate when gardening is brought indoors.

“I get a little passionate about it,” she acknowledges. “It’s so therapeutic because, you know, green is such a soothing color and everyone wants to be a nurturer deep inside. It makes you feel so good.”

10 tips for houseplants from Tovah Martin

1.Tropical plants aren’t the only choices for indoors. Many outdoor plants can work with the right light, water and pots.

2.A happy, well-tended plant is a healthy plant.

3.Grow only plants you like. “Find something you can bond with,” Martin says. “You’ll pay attention to it.” The plant will thrive and like will turn to love, she predicts.

4.Don’t hang on to a plant just because it was a gift. Pass it on promptly if it’s not for you.

5.Specialty nurseries aren’t the only sources for plants. Try the supermarket. “Most supermarket plants are real survivors,” Martin said. “Give them a little care and they will look like a million.” That said, be choosy. “Don’t try to be Mother Teresa to all the benighted plants in the supermarket,” she writes in her book. “If they look like they are on their last legs, galloping to their rescue is probably not worth the investment.”

6.Want to grow shrubs or trees indoors? Root them in tall, cylinderlike containers so there’s plenty of room for roots.

7.Hanging baskets aren’t the only choice for droopy or vining plants. Go with a tall container.

8.Pay attention to your plants. “Plants will slowly tell you if they are stressed,” Martin says. If that happens, check the amount of light or whether the plant is in the right container. Plants in pots that are too small need watering much more often.

9.Unless you have south-facing windows, don’t choose plants that demand lots of light. Be willing to move plants around a room as lighting conditions change with the seasons.

10.Don’t be scared to prune a plant back, especially if it’s gotten too bushy after a summer spent outdoors.

— B.D.

Tips for fall bulb gardening, part 1

This week, let’s consider the tender bulbs. Your first option is the simplest — do nothing. There is no law that says you can’t treat these plants as annuals. They will probably die in the cold of winter, but if you don’t plan to use them again next spring, don’t dig them up. A second option, if they are in containers, just move the containers in for the winter.

If, however, you want to save them, take action after the first killing frost. Pick a time when there will be several days of dry weather, if possible. Loosen the soil around the plant and, using a garden fork, gently lift the cluster.

Bulbs and corms are relatively straightforward: cut off the dead foliage, lay them out to dry for a day or two; brush off soil; and store them in a cool but frost-free area. They can be placed in boxes of peat or sand, wrapped in newspaper or stored in mesh bags. If you see small bulbs or corms attached to the main one, they can be removed and planted to grow new plants. Be aware however, that it will often take several seasons for these to reach blooming size.

Tuberous roots such as dahlias, or rhizomes like cannas often dramatically increase during the growing season. These need a bit more care as damage now can seriously affect your results next year.

Again, as with bulbs, remove the dead foliage, taking care, particularly in the case of dahlias, to preserve a few inches of the main stem with the clump of tubers. Dry and brush clean but now, before storing, consider dividing them into new plants.

While this can be done in the spring, large clumps are difficult to store without breakage. There are specific procedures for dividing some of these plants, so, for now, after they die back in a frost: dig, brush and dry them and gather together your storing material, a knife with a sharp but strong blade, sanitizer and rooting hormone powder. Next week I’ll discuss dividing dahlias and cannas.

If you grew tender tropicals, they need to be stored in warmer locations than the cooler frost-free conditions mentioned above. For example, here are the ideal storing temperatures for a few popular tropicals: Caladiums (70-75 degrees), colocasia/alocasia (Elephant ears) (70-75 degrees), freesia (75-85 degrees), calla lilies (50-60 degrees), and ranunculus (50-55 degrees).

See: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/bulbs-summer/bulletin32/storage.html for a good general reference on storage requirements for many tender bulbs.

Readers on voles and moles

Dear Sue: You wrote about keeping pests like moles and voles away. I have had much success with a product called Sonic Molechaser that I purchased from a company called Northern Tool and Equipment. The cost is $25and it covers 11,250 square feet. It’s rather funny that I have such a problem as I have cats that I allow outside when I am home and working in my yard. I guess they have seen me all too often attempting to revive the pests after one of my little fur ones brings me a gift. I actually have two little field mice that I found after disturbing their nest while cleaning out pulled plants. They now have a very cool cage complete with a wheel and all. http://www.northerntool.com