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How does your garden grow?

The Sundaytimes Sri Lanka

Developing a new Botanical Garden is no easy task as Dr. Siril Wijesundara, Director General of the Department of National Botanic Gardens, the man behind the Mirijjawila Dry Zone Botanic Gardens, Hambantota well knows. “Some people could not believe that it is possible to have lush greenery in the Dry Zone, let alone a Botanical Garden,” he says, happy to have taken on the challenge.

Greening Mirijjawila: Views of lush foliage and serene landscape

The Mirijjawila Botanical Gardens will be opened on November 14 to coincide with the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM) being held in Sri Lanka this week.

Recalling Sri Lanka’s history Dr. Wijesundara reminds us that our Great Kings had built beautiful gardens in Anuradhapura and Tissamaharama. Sigiriya had a landscaped garden. “This shows that there were clever landscape artists in ancient Sri Lanka. Now we see only the relics of hard landscape.” he laments. Gardening is in our blood, he feels so, why not take a page from history and create a 21st Century garden in the dry zone.”

The British established Botanical Gardens in Sri Lanka mainly to introduce economic crops. The Henarathgoda Botanical Gardens in Gampaha was established to conduct trials to introduce Rubber to Sri Lanka. Rubber plants were first brought from the Amazon by the British to the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew in England, then sent to Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya and then to the newly established Henarathgoda Botanical Gardens in 1876. Rubber seeds produced at Henarathgoda were introduced to Singapore and from there to Malaysia. 

We have three botanical gardens at present – Peradeniya (established in 1821), Hakgala (established in 1861) and Gampaha (1876). Now, after more than 130 years comes the Mirijjawila Botanical Gardens, the fourth in the country. “What is unique about the Mirijjawila Botanical Gardens is that there has been no foreign collaboration and 100% of the finances are from the Government Treasury, with the expertise from Sri Lankan scientists and professionals,” says Dr. Wijesundara with pride. “It is a home-grown garden!”

“The idea to develop a botanical garden in the Dry Zone had been there for some time. The first step was to find suitable land and then the required water.” Many places were visited and finally in 2004, a site, which belonged to the Mahaweli Authority in Mirijjawila was found to be suitable due to the large extent of land and most important a wila (lake) nearby. The water from the Baragama wila flows direct to the sea without being used for any agricultural purpose. This water could be used for the gardens. It was also an ideal place to preserve the fauna and flora abundant in the region. “Yes, there were peacocks, deer, water monitors, birds and butterflies. At present there are flocks of migrant birds in the area,” said Dr. Wijesundara.

But after the 2004 tusnami, plans were shelved. In 2005 the Botanical Gardens Division was separated from the Department of Agriculture to form a new Department, namely the Department of National Botanical Gardens. Secretary to the new Ministry of Promotion of Botanical and Zoological Gardens S. Liyanagama, visited Hambantota with Dr. Wijesundara to scout for a suitable site, along with the Government Agent, Hambantota.

Inspecting the site again, they found barriers due to the newly built tsunami houses and on the southern side, land being reserved for an Oil Refinery.  However, the Department was able to acquire the present site which is 300 acres in extent from the Mahaweli Authority in 2006. Planting began in 2008. The footpaths and terrain of the land were preserved as much as possible without disturbing the natural landscape. A section was developed for floriculture as a sustainable community development project.

Dr. Wijesundara says he had the full freedom to plan and design this project and is grateful to the ministers and secretaries who supported him. It involved a joint effort with several state institutions -the National Water Supply and Drainage Board helped in the development of a water tower with a powerful pump house and a capacity of 225 cubic metres, which is the largest water scheme constructed by the Board. The daily capacity of 1000 cubic metres is obtained from the nearby Baragama wila. The State Engineering Corporation, the Road Development Authority, the Buildings Department and the Central Electricity Board also provided their expertise.

Crediting his staff for the landscaping, planning , Dr. Wijesundara says his work was made easy by the contribution made by the site Officer-in- charge Sumith Ekanayake, floriculturist, Madhuri Peiris while the landscape supervisory work was done by A.B. Meddegoda, Sanath Udaya Kumara, Dinesh Fernando, Asela Leelarathna, Jayawardena, and Dulan.

With the country’s rich agro-biodiversity experiencing many threats due to unplanned land use, pollution, fragmentation and alteration of farming systems, Dr. Wijesundera’s view is that the benefits of conserving the dry zone habitat and its distinctive vegetation are many. This garden can play a role in ex-situ conservation of some of the more important components of agro-biodiversity found in the dry zone, he believes. 

Botanical Gardens are not just “flower gardens” or “malwattas”. They are scientific institutions holding a diverse documented plant collection (aesthetically arranged), maintained by scientists for conservation, research and education and of course display.

“We have a rich biodiversity (probably the highest biodiversity per unit area in this part of the world) and we need to conserve plants ex-situ (outside the native habitat), as the natural habitats are endangered. As our country is very diverse floristically, we need more gardens to conserve plants in different climatic zones. For example we cannot conserve a plant from Hambantota in a garden in Nuwara Eliya and vice versa. “Mirijjawila was selected as it is the driest area in the country with 650 mm. or less annual rainfall. Mannar gets 100 mm. more than that. Mirijjawila will conserve dry and arid zone plants. All our existing botanical gardens are in the Wet Zone.” 

With education and training programmes, the new gardens could be a resource for educational institutions at all levels.
A special area is preserved for indigenous herbs. Floriculture is also highlighted and local residents have already been trained and are encouraged to develop their home gardens for export of cut flowers and foliage as a self-employment project.
A wooded area is planned with trees such as Burutha, Domba, Ehela, Gammalu, Halmilla, Helamba, Ingini, Kaluwara, Kohomba, Kon, Kotamba, Kumbuk Madadita and many more.

Popular cut flowers such as anthuriums, gerberas and orchids are already thriving at Mirijjawela. “I never thought I would live to see the Vandas and Cattleyas bloom in such a riot of colour,” Dr. Wijesundara says 

He visualises the ‘patch of green’ like Central Park in New York in a few years time with houses surrounding it! An ‘escape’ from the concrete jungle! An environment for recreation and relaxation.

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Instead of lippia, try these lawn substitutes

Florence “Flip” Manne
Sun Valley

Answer: Florence, you are right — getting rid of grass is a great goal. Traditional lawns take so many resources — water, time, money, chemicals — while contributing so little to the aesthetic of a property.

Before we get into the mystery of lippia’s disappearance, let’s consider a few inexpensive, drought-resistant, readily available lawn alternatives that may suit your design needs. I’m suggesting three of varying heights, all with the qualities you attributed to lippia:

Yarrow

If you prefer a lawn-like look, try Achillea millefolium, commonly known as yarrow, for a year-round deep green. It’s one of the plants my firm uses for its IdealMow alternatives — lawns or meadows consisting of California natives and other plants suited to thrive in L.A. County with little maintenance, scant water and no synthetic chemicals. For the look of a traditional lawn, mow yarrow to a height of 3 inches once a month. A wildly attractive alternative: Don’t mow it, and allow yarrow to develop beautiful stalks of white flowers.

Hummingbird sage

For a rustic design, it’s hard to beat the charms of Salvia spathacea, better known as hummingbird sage. Its large, low, soft leaves will spread on their own, growing 12 to 18 inches high with multi-flower stalks appearing sporadically throughout all seasons. It will happily maintain a mild, shady slope and will thrive beneath fussy oaks with little or no water. As you may have guessed, hummingbird sage also attracts wildlife.

Breath of Heaven

The striking gold foliage of a Coleonema pulchellum cultivar called Sunset Gold grows 2½ feet high and can make a visual effect in groupings. For a contemporary look, place alternating masses of contrasting blue-colored foliage such as Festuca idahoensis adjacent to Sunset Gold. For drama, you could place architectural plants such as Agave attenuata to appear as if they are erupting from a sea of gold. This Coleonema is often sold under the name Breath of Heaven or Golden Breath of Heaven.

Each of these alternatives can be found at nurseries, and yarrow can be started economically from seed. They require no fertilizers to stay in optimal condition, and they demand about 70% less water than a traditional lawn. They have one other benefit that distinguishes them from lippia: They are not invasive.

Now we get to the mysterious disappearance of lippia (Phyla canescens). The plant spreads aggressively, so aggressively that it may invade not only the adjacent garden but also our region’s wild spaces. Much of what we’ve come to see as our inevitable cycle of fires and floods can be attributed to the proliferation of invasive species inadvertently introduced to our wild lands through our home gardens.

Although some of the worst offenders, including fountain grass, pride of Madeira, broom and pampas grass, are still sold in nurseries, standards are evolving. Lippia’s disappearance is part of this evolution.


Our expert

Our answer this week comes from Cassy Aoyagi, co-founder and president of FormLA Landscaping, www.formlainc.com. She is an accredited designer in the U.S. Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) program, a licensed contractor and board president of the Theodore Payne Foundation for Wildflowers and Native Plants.

Instead of lippia, try these lawn substitutes

Florence “Flip” Manne
Sun Valley

Answer: Florence, you are right — getting rid of grass is a great goal. Traditional lawns take so many resources — water, time, money, chemicals — while contributing so little to the aesthetic of a property.

Before we get into the mystery of lippia’s disappearance, let’s consider a few inexpensive, drought-resistant, readily available lawn alternatives that may suit your design needs. I’m suggesting three of varying heights, all with the qualities you attributed to lippia:

Yarrow

If you prefer a lawn-like look, try Achillea millefolium, commonly known as yarrow, for a year-round deep green. It’s one of the plants my firm uses for its IdealMow alternatives — lawns or meadows consisting of California natives and other plants suited to thrive in L.A. County with little maintenance, scant water and no synthetic chemicals. For the look of a traditional lawn, mow yarrow to a height of 3 inches once a month. A wildly attractive alternative: Don’t mow it, and allow yarrow to develop beautiful stalks of white flowers.

Hummingbird sage

For a rustic design, it’s hard to beat the charms of Salvia spathacea, better known as hummingbird sage. Its large, low, soft leaves will spread on their own, growing 12 to 18 inches high with multi-flower stalks appearing sporadically throughout all seasons. It will happily maintain a mild, shady slope and will thrive beneath fussy oaks with little or no water. As you may have guessed, hummingbird sage also attracts wildlife.

Breath of Heaven

The striking gold foliage of a Coleonema pulchellum cultivar called Sunset Gold grows 2½ feet high and can make a visual effect in groupings. For a contemporary look, place alternating masses of contrasting blue-colored foliage such as Festuca idahoensis adjacent to Sunset Gold. For drama, you could place architectural plants such as Agave attenuata to appear as if they are erupting from a sea of gold. This Coleonema is often sold under the name Breath of Heaven or Golden Breath of Heaven.

Each of these alternatives can be found at nurseries, and yarrow can be started economically from seed. They require no fertilizers to stay in optimal condition, and they demand about 70% less water than a traditional lawn. They have one other benefit that distinguishes them from lippia: They are not invasive.

Now we get to the mysterious disappearance of lippia (Phyla canescens). The plant spreads aggressively, so aggressively that it may invade not only the adjacent garden but also our region’s wild spaces. Much of what we’ve come to see as our inevitable cycle of fires and floods can be attributed to the proliferation of invasive species inadvertently introduced to our wild lands through our home gardens.

Although some of the worst offenders, including fountain grass, pride of Madeira, broom and pampas grass, are still sold in nurseries, standards are evolving. Lippia’s disappearance is part of this evolution.


Our expert

Our answer this week comes from Cassy Aoyagi, co-founder and president of FormLA Landscaping, www.formlainc.com. She is an accredited designer in the U.S. Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) program, a licensed contractor and board president of the Theodore Payne Foundation for Wildflowers and Native Plants.

Home & Garden Briefs

Posted: Saturday, November 9, 2013 8:32 am

Home Garden Briefs

By Staff Reports

TulsaWorld.com

|
0 comments

Tulsa Home Family Expo begins Friday


Whether you are looking for tips on decorating, remodeling or landscaping your home, the 2013 Tulsa Home Family Expo is the place to go.

The event is Nov. 15-17 at the Exchange Center located on the Tulsa Fairgrounds, 4145 E. 21st St.

The expo features exhibitors offering the latest new products and services for your home, inside and out. The hours are noon to 8 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Nov. 16, and 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Nov. 17. 

Winter gardening tasks topic of Brown Bag Lecture 

A successful landscape in the spring often depends on how well the landscape was maintained in the fall and winter.

The Brown Bag Lecture “Winter Gardening Tips” will be presented at noon at the Tulsa Garden Center, 2435 S. Peoria Ave. 

Mark Linholm, supervisor of the Woodward Park Gardeners, will present a program on winter gardening tasks. Just because we’re not mowing and planting in the winter doesn’t mean we should ignore our landscape and gardens.

Our winters are often dry, requiring supplemental watering to keep our shrubs and trees healthy. Linholm will cover the most common tasks that we need to perform.

This lecture is free to the public. Bring your lunch for the educational hour. For more information, call 918-746-5125 or visit our website at tulsagardencenter.com.

on

Saturday, November 9, 2013 8:32 am.

Home & Garden Briefs

Posted: Saturday, November 9, 2013 8:32 am

Home Garden Briefs

By Staff Reports

TulsaWorld.com

|
0 comments

Tulsa Home Family Expo begins Friday


Whether you are looking for tips on decorating, remodeling or landscaping your home, the 2013 Tulsa Home Family Expo is the place to go.

The event is Nov. 15-17 at the Exchange Center located on the Tulsa Fairgrounds, 4145 E. 21st St.

The expo features exhibitors offering the latest new products and services for your home, inside and out. The hours are noon to 8 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Nov. 16, and 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Nov. 17. 

Winter gardening tasks topic of Brown Bag Lecture 

A successful landscape in the spring often depends on how well the landscape was maintained in the fall and winter.

The Brown Bag Lecture “Winter Gardening Tips” will be presented at noon at the Tulsa Garden Center, 2435 S. Peoria Ave. 

Mark Linholm, supervisor of the Woodward Park Gardeners, will present a program on winter gardening tasks. Just because we’re not mowing and planting in the winter doesn’t mean we should ignore our landscape and gardens.

Our winters are often dry, requiring supplemental watering to keep our shrubs and trees healthy. Linholm will cover the most common tasks that we need to perform.

This lecture is free to the public. Bring your lunch for the educational hour. For more information, call 918-746-5125 or visit our website at tulsagardencenter.com.

on

Saturday, November 9, 2013 8:32 am.

Time for Tulips – this week’s gardening tips

This week is the time to get your roses planted! And while you may have probably planted most of your spring bulbs by now, it’s not too late to add tulips to the mix, ready to create a riot of colour next season.

What to do this week:

Cover vulnerable plants growing outdoors with cloches or horticultural fleece if severe frost is forecast.

Clear out and take under cover decorative containers that are not frost-hardy. Protect pots containing plants of borderline hardiness with insulation and group them together in a sheltered spot.

Plant roses if conditions permit, or heel in if the weather is frosty.

Prune wisteria to ensure and increase flowering next year.

Continue to clear fallen leaves and other debris so slugs, snails and other pests have nowhere to overwinter.

Harvest vegetables including the first Brussels sprouts, kale, cabbages, spinach, turnips, swedes and Jerusalem artichokes.

Check bulbs, corms and tubers in store and remove any showing signs of disease.

Clear away overhanging vegetation from heather beds which need to be sited in sunny, open spots.

Begin pruning greenhouse vines once the leaves have fallen.

Remove dead or decaying branches from trees to stop high winds causing damage and expense.

Continue to cut back any remaining faded marginal plants from your pond.

Store maincrop carrots in wooden boxes of sand, or sifted, dry soil in a cool but frost-free place like a garage or garden shed.

Plant Japanese onion sets if not yet done.

BEST OF THE BUNCH – Berberis

Their spine-tipped leaves make them an ideal deterrent for burglars, especially when grown as a flowering hedge, but there are many other good points for growing berberis too. Their yellow or burnt orange flowers in late spring are followed by red or purple berries in autumn and many of the deciduous types are a sight to behold at this time, when their leaves turn fiery shades.

Berberis, whether deciduous or evergreen, are easy to grow in sun or semi-shade and make good informal hedges or filler plants, while their more compact varieties also do well in pots. Try ‘Aurea’, which has yellow leaves and grows to around 60cm (2ft) or the more compact and low-growing B. thunbergii atropurpurea ‘Bagatelle’, which has dark red leaves.

Other good choices include the evergreen variety B. darwinii, which bears loose clusters of burnt orange flowers in late spring and purple berries in autumn, and B. verruculosa, which grows to 1.5m (5ft) and bears golden flowers in early summer followed by shiny purple fruits.

 

Time for Tulips – this week’s gardening tips

This week is the time to get your roses planted! And while you may have probably planted most of your spring bulbs by now, it’s not too late to add tulips to the mix, ready to create a riot of colour next season.

What to do this week:

Cover vulnerable plants growing outdoors with cloches or horticultural fleece if severe frost is forecast.

Clear out and take under cover decorative containers that are not frost-hardy. Protect pots containing plants of borderline hardiness with insulation and group them together in a sheltered spot.

Plant roses if conditions permit, or heel in if the weather is frosty.

Prune wisteria to ensure and increase flowering next year.

Continue to clear fallen leaves and other debris so slugs, snails and other pests have nowhere to overwinter.

Harvest vegetables including the first Brussels sprouts, kale, cabbages, spinach, turnips, swedes and Jerusalem artichokes.

Check bulbs, corms and tubers in store and remove any showing signs of disease.

Clear away overhanging vegetation from heather beds which need to be sited in sunny, open spots.

Begin pruning greenhouse vines once the leaves have fallen.

Remove dead or decaying branches from trees to stop high winds causing damage and expense.

Continue to cut back any remaining faded marginal plants from your pond.

Store maincrop carrots in wooden boxes of sand, or sifted, dry soil in a cool but frost-free place like a garage or garden shed.

Plant Japanese onion sets if not yet done.

BEST OF THE BUNCH – Berberis

Their spine-tipped leaves make them an ideal deterrent for burglars, especially when grown as a flowering hedge, but there are many other good points for growing berberis too. Their yellow or burnt orange flowers in late spring are followed by red or purple berries in autumn and many of the deciduous types are a sight to behold at this time, when their leaves turn fiery shades.

Berberis, whether deciduous or evergreen, are easy to grow in sun or semi-shade and make good informal hedges or filler plants, while their more compact varieties also do well in pots. Try ‘Aurea’, which has yellow leaves and grows to around 60cm (2ft) or the more compact and low-growing B. thunbergii atropurpurea ‘Bagatelle’, which has dark red leaves.

Other good choices include the evergreen variety B. darwinii, which bears loose clusters of burnt orange flowers in late spring and purple berries in autumn, and B. verruculosa, which grows to 1.5m (5ft) and bears golden flowers in early summer followed by shiny purple fruits.

 

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture …

© Aaron Booher

Architects: WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism
Location: , NY 11225, USA
Site Design:
Landscape Architect: HMWhite
Civil And Structural Engineers: Civil and Structural Engineers
Lighting: Brandston Partnership
Landscape Contractor: Kelco
General Contractor: EWHowell
Contractors Construction Manager: LiRO
Year: 2013
Photographs: Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

From the architect. Honored by the NYC Design Commission with an Award for Excellence in Design in 2008 for integration of form, function and sustain- able practice, the new visitor center to the Brooklyn Botanic Garden establishes a visionary public interface between the city and the garden. The landscape’s central feature is the building’s living roof design, conceived as a seamless, inhabitable extension of the Garden that mergers landscape and architecture and redefines physical and philosophical relationships between visitor and garden, exhibition and movement, culture and cultivation.

© Aaron Booher

Fusing contemporary site engineering technology with sustainable landscape and horticultural design, the Visitor Center landscape design marks the Garden’s centennial and demonstrates the institution’s commitment to environmental stewardship and conservation by providing a new pedagogical paradigm with this high performance landscape design and new botanical exhibit for its next 100 years of public service and education.

© Aaron Booher

STORMWATER MANAGEMENT

A network of storm water collection features an extensive green roof, storm water channel, vegetated swales and bio-infiltration basins. Collectively, these elements retain storm water on site to facilitate natural filtration and ground water recharge and discharge to the municipal sewer.

© Aaron Booher

SOIL RECLAMATION

Contaminated soils in the historic fill demanded remedial action. Distinct soil profiles were designed to reconstruct existing soils and restore viable soil biology to support each diverse horticultural conditions. The bio-infiltration basin’s loose deep soils absorb water and filter pollutants and expand the volume of storm water capture. Structural soils in plazas provide contiguous expansive soil volumes to sustain limitless tree root growth under paved areas.

© Aaron Booher

HORTICULTURAL EXHIBIT

The planting design demonstrates how a specific mix of plant species and types can regenerate high performing ecologies. Informed by native plant communities, botanic collections are organized in bold drifts, from upland to lowland typologies that knit the Visitor Center landscape into the exist- ing and establish a resilient design structure for future garden expansion.

Site Plan


Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism  Aaron Booher

© Aaron Booher

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism Site Plan

Site Plan

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism Detail

Detail

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism Detail

Detail

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism Diagram

Diagram

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Visitor Center / WEISS/MANFREDI Architecture/Landscape/Urbanism Diagram

Diagram

My happy place: Margaret Phillips, garden designer

For Margaret Phillips designing gardens is ``painting with plants''. Photo / Sophie Leuschke

I have always been in awe of plants and aware of how they can have such a profound effect upon us. For me, the sheer joy of seeing an immaculate bud or seeing an entire vista with all its complexities is a perpetual delight. Gardens are the places that make me happy and I love making gardens for others to enjoy.

As a child I remember following the patterns of trees with my eye as we drove through various parts of this beautiful country, and wanting to fill any gaps left by fallen or dead trees, to complete the rhythm. Driving through Fitzgerald Glade, on the way to Rotorua, was a memorable experience for me, as it is for many people.

Patterns and place, colours and textures have always had an impact on me. Gardens nourish me and all my senses, just as music can.

I love gardens – being within them and designing them. For me it is painting with plants. Because they are alive and have their own life cycle, a garden is never fixed and finished, neither static nor entirely predictable.

I have designed gardens for so many clients over the last two decades or so who have wanted to live in their own private oasis.

I thoroughly enjoy being part of this design dynamic – considering the architecture, the soil and aspect of the land, together with the needs and personalities of the people who will live within. It is a combination and awareness of all these elements.

Being within a beautiful space can be relaxing, restorative or invigorating, expansive, thought provoking and often witty.

A designer directs these spaces with planting and hard elements, whether it’s a private garden or an urban domain. The Britomart precinct was a fun project to be involved in – bringing flowers and food into our urban fabric. Another garden I enjoyed designing recently was at 9 Pukenui Rd in Epsom, which is open in this year’s Auckland Garden DesignFest.

As our eyes are so easily led, it is particularly important when designing to be acutely aware of how the eye sweeps, skims or ignores some elements and yet can so easily be captured by a colour or combination of colours and textures.

All our senses need nourishment and gardens can indulge each of them in so many different ways. I love to make spaces for people to love being in.

Herald on Sunday

By Bronwyn Sell Email Bronwyn

Winterizing Your… |

Last time I wrote about changing your watering schedules and checking your irrigation systems for the fast-approaching winter weather. There are a lot of other things to consider for winterizing your landscape to help minimize potential damage. And remember, damage can come from natural and man-made causes.

To truly winterize your yard, much of it should be considered in the initial planning stages of the landscape so that many of the problems can be avoided. Preventive measures imple mented in the fall also can greatly reduce winter damage. “What is susceptible to winter damage?” you might ask: Just about everything — plants, paving, steps and stairs, furnishings, plumbing and irrigation. Some of the causes of winter damage include windburn, freezing, heaving, ice, snow and flooding. Windburn dries out leaf tissue causing brown or black discoloration of the leaves facing the windward side. Evergreen plants with large leaves are the most susceptible. Think about selecting deciduous plants (those that lose all of their leaves at once) or plants with smaller leaves or needles to help reduce windburn damage. Plants that are marginally cold-hardy, or not hardy at all, are subject to freezing and frost damage. Know your plant materials and avoid using landscape plants that cannot take the High Desert’s cold winters. I have seen the temperature as low as 6 degrees and down into the teens numerous times. Also, don’t encourage new growth toward the onset of winter because the tender new leaves can easily freeze. Fully hydrated cacti and succulents can suffer cold damage as well. Water expands when it freezes, which can cause fully hydrated plant cells to burst. I stop watering my cacti and other succulents around the beginning of November and start watering again in April or so. The only water they get during this time is what Mother Nature provides. This allows the cacti and succulents to be slightly dehydrated. Heaving can affect bulbs and perennials as the soil they are planted in repeatedly thaws and freezes. Heaving can eventually expose the roots to drying wind and kill the plant. Encouraging deep rooting can greatly reduce heaving. Regularly mulching your planting beds can help minimize the temperature changes in the soil — keeping the planting beds warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

Ice and snow can have effects on not only the plants but on hardscape as well. The weight of ice and snow can easily break twigs and branches. Evergreens can hold more snow and ice, thus being more prone to damage from the weight.

Try to remove the snow if it can be done safely by using a light-weight kitchen broom. Regular pruning or thinning can help reduce the damage. Also, snow falling from a roof onto plants can seriously damage or kill a plant. Avoid placing plants right under the roof’s edge.

The hardscape can be affected by water seeping into cracks and then freezing and thawing, eventually making the cracks bigger. Prior to winter, seal cracks in concrete and pavers

— ask your local home improvement center for recommended products.

Salting to melt ice and snow can be damaging to paving and concrete, causing it to crumble — and it is extremely toxic to plants. To help avoid icy hazards, keep irrigation water off paved surfaces, shovel snow from walkways and break up ice accumulations when possible.

Flooding can occur via too much rain or through damage from freezing plumbing and irrigation systems. Cover exposed pipes, manifolds, faucets and so forth with insulation to help prevent breakage. Avoid placing plants in low areas of your yard where water might accumulate during a heavy rainstorm. Other things to consider when winterizing your property include cleaning and inspecting rain gutters and removing any debris that interferes with natural drainage from paths, slopes and drainage systems. This is also a good time to rake up all of those fallen leaves and add them to your compost pile, and to make sure there are no tree branches creating a fire hazard near chimneys.

HAPPY GARDENING!

High Desert resident Micki Brown is a droughttolerant plant specialist with an M.S. in plant science. Send her questions to be answered in the column at HorticultureHelp@aol.com.