Garden to do list for may

It is getting toward the end of the spring season by May.

-Be sure and keep things neat and tidy as the season ends.

-Add anything you used as winter mulch to your compost bin.

-Don’t forget to turn the compost often and keep it moist.

-Inspect the mulch and be sure you still have 4-6 inches of it. If not then add more fresh mulch to your beds.

Gardening Tips: To do list tips for garden chores in May

-If you have plants that are top heavy with flowers, you will need to stake them well to prevent breakage.

-Any faded or spent blooms on roses should be pruned.

-Keep vines tied up well and guide them to grow where you want them.

-If you have strawberry plants that are new keep the flowers pinched off until the second year and you will have a better harvest of larger strawberries.

-Move your houseplants outdoors for a few hours every day.

-Plant new rose bushes.

-Keep the weeds from getting too large before removing them.

-Keep all plants watered as needed.

-Water in the morning to prevent disease problems.

-If fruit trees have suckers they need to be removed.

-Protect any fruiting plants like watermelon or cantaloupe from coming in contact with wet soil. Place hay under the fruit for protection.

-Sow seeds of annuals like Poppies, Larkspurs and Asters.

-Cuttings can be taken from most plants now and rooted with a rooting hormone and placed in peat moss.

-Plant any trees or evergreens before the weather gets too hot.

-Stake your tomato plants well.

-Continue to plant succession crops in your vegetable garden.

-Water your plants with compost tea, by putting compost in a barrel of water and let it stand in the heat for awhile. The solids will settle to the bottom and the water can be used for all plants, indoors or out.

-For a more formal look you can prune hedges or shrubs into pretty shapes. This pruning will keep them compact and bushy.

-Re-pot any plant that is root bound. If you see roots coming out of the bottom of a container then it is time to re-pot in a container one inch bigger in diameter. The roots may have to be trimmed a little bit. Be sure the roots are not growing in a circle when you put them in their new container. This circling will strangle the plant.

-For larger flowers always pinch off any side shoots such as the Peony.

-Take herb cuttings to start new herb plants.

-Harvest herbs by pruning and dry for later use.

-When you are sitting outside in the evening think about which white flowering plant would be good to plant in your garden. Moonflower seeds grow fast and look great in the moonlight.

-Enjoy the aromatic herbs and beautiful flowers of your garden.

-Don’t work too hard as it is easy to over do things when you have so much garden work to do.

One of the many challenges faced by greenhouse growers is keeping the plants height short and controlled. We nurture our plants providing the proper amounts of food, light, water, and temperatures and, even with all that, the plants stretch and get leggy anyway. Are there ways to control plant height and keep them from stretching?

There are three methods of control: biological, physical and chemical. Lets look at these methods separately.

Gardening Tips: Controlling Plant Height In the Greenhouse

Biological Method: thoroughly research the cultivars you want to grow. Many bedding plants have varying maturity heights; short, medium and tall. Select the cultivars that best suit the area in the greenhouse where it will grow. It is best to grow varieties that stay short, as this is an easier way to control the plants height. The plant takes care of itself.
Schedule your start times so the plants will mature on time. Starting seeds too soon and allowing them too much time to grow creates a need to “hold back” the plant. Trying to hold a plant back from maturing is very hard to do and in the efforts made to try and accomplish this, the quality of the plant can diminish. I remember starting tomato seeds in late February for a May planting. I was a little over anxious. The seeds germinated right on time and continued to grow rapidly. There was no holding them back and I wound up with tomato trees. I lost many of the plants along the way as I was trying to maintain them. The following season I adjusted the start times, what a difference a few weeks made.

Physical Method: this control method encompasses many aspects of the plants growth from the growing environment to the cultural practices used.

1. Light intensity is one of the easier ways to keep plant height controlled. Give the plant ample room to grow. Crowding the growing area creates competition for all available light giving less to each plant. Grow only the amount of plants that you can feasibly fit in your greenhouse. Once a plant senses the others presence next to it, the plant will start to grow upward. Keep the canopy open by limiting the amount of hanging baskets grown. The plants below will be shaded too much for proper growth. I ignored these suggestions when I grew for retail purposes. I would try to squeeze out as many plants as I could from the greenhouse and indeed some plants did suffer; growing tall and leggy and ultimately not surviving the season due to the stresses they were put under.

2. If your greenhouse is made of glass, make sure it is kept clean as much as possible. The amount of light that is able to come through a dirty glass panel is diminished considerably. Plastic coverings that are old tend to turn yellow. This too causes less light to come through. Replace the covering when it is showing signs of aging. Poor lighting conditions cause the plants to stretch and grow leggy. Provide as much light as you can.

3. Container size helps to control plant height as well. Using containers that are too small, creating restricted root systems, reduces the stretching of bedding plants.

4. Watering a plant less often, allowing it to wilt slightly between waterings, gives a shorter plant, but you risk poor quality if wilting is allowed to occur too often. Plants can tolerate a certain amount of wilting. Be careful to not allow the plant to wilt to the point of no return.

5. Fertilizing less is an old time favorite way to control plant height. This method can be quite successful, so long as it is controlled. The nutrients that effect plant size are nitrogen and phosphorous. Nitrogen withheld has the biggest effect on plant height; however, allowing too much deprivation of the N nutrient for too long a period can cause yellowing of the leaves and overall poor quality. There are special fertilizers sold at garden centers that have predetermined nutrient combinations, for example, regular use of the water- soluble 20-1-20 or 20-2-20, has been shown to produce shorter, stockier plants.

6. Temperature control, using a method known in the industry as DIF, has been shown to be a useful method in controlling plant height. Developed by researchers from Michigan State University back in the 1980’s, their research basically showed that the average temperature (the average day plus night temp) affects a plants growth rate with higher averages resulting in more rapid growth and development.

DIF, the difference between day temps and night temps affects stem elongation and height. Stem elongation is the distance of the stem from one node to the next. DIF is calculated as the day temp minus the night temp and can be either positive DIF (day temp is higher than night), zero DIF (day temp = night) or negative DIF (day temp is less than night).

Trying to keep a greenhouse in negative DIF is a difficult task for most. Another way was found that accomplished reducing a plants height and is the easiest DIF treatment to use, it is called “cool morning pulse”. By reducing the greenhouse temperature 5 to 10 degrees F lower than the night temperature for 2 to 3 hours, starting 30 minutes before dawn, reduced plant height as effectively as negative DIF and was easier to do. Here is an example: night temp of 68 -degreesF, two hour drop to 60 -degreesF (30 minutes before dawn), and then 65 -degreesF maintained during the day. For warmer plants: 72 -degreesF at night; 64 -degreesF pre-dawn for 2 to 3 hours; 65-degreesF day.

There are thermostatically controlled devices that you can set up to automatically change these temperatures at the correct times. Salvia, Rose, Snapdragon and Fuchsia had very good responses to this DIF control compared to Aster, French Marigold, Tulip and Squash which showed little or no response.

Mechanical Methods are used and have been known for a long time to be a good control. By brushing, shaking or bending the plant on a regular basis caused the plants to stay short. A mechanical device was created for use in commercial greenhouses that grow vegetable seedlings. A bar is drawn across the tops of the seedlings once or twice a day. The bar is low enough to make contact with the plant without breaking the tops. A 40 percent reduction in height was recorded. Other systems using vibrations, periodic shaking and blowing air movement are also good methods of height control.

Chemical Method is really the last resort that should be taken. Improperly applying these chemicals can cause extensive damage to the plant and can be unhealthy for anyone entering the greenhouse. Chemical growth regulators are not approved for use on vegetable seedlings. A hormone called gibberellins is responsible for a plants cellular growth and elongation. Growth regulators and retardants are anti-gibberellins that inhibit gibberellin’s synthesis thus keeping the plants from growing tall. Common growth regulators and retardants are A-Rest, B-Nine, Bonzi, Cycocel, Florel and Sumagic, each used on different plants and performing different functions.

These chemical controls are considered pesticides and are best left to the professional. For the hobby greenhouse grower the non-chemical methods of control are best.

If you are planning a new garden or refurbishing an existing one, these guidelines will help you create an interesting and abundant garden for every season

There are many ways to make a garden grow, but one of the most fascinating is the organic way. Organic gardening is easy and economical, and an important contribution to the future of our planet. What’s more, organic gardens are dazzling in their endless variety. They also are attract beneficial wildlife, like birds and pollinating insects.

So go ahead, make your fellow gardeners curious about how you grow such a diverse and beautiful garden. Whether your flowers are annuals, perennials, bulbs or shrubs, you will benefit by following organic gardening guidelines for your garden.

Laying the Groundwork

The soil is the most basic building block of any garden. The healthier the soil, the healthier your plants will be. When preparing your plot, take a little extra time to examine the texture and acidity levels of the earth you’ll be working with.

Natural Beauty – Growing Flowers the Organic Way

First, test the pH factor of your soil. The soil’s pH is measured by a numbering system from 0 to 14 — 0 being the most acidic and 14 the most alkaline. Most plants prefer a neutral pH. Whatever pH you have in your garden, you can amend it to match the pH your plants prefer. For example, if your soil is too acidic, simply add hydrated garden lime to reduce the level of acidity.

It is always a good idea to add compost to your soil. Compost, the organic gardener’s best friend, will fertilize your soil and make it healthy. Make compost yourself out of vegetable scraps, grass cuttings, wood ashes, coffee grounds, eggshells and disease-free garden foliage, all of which will decompose into nutrient-rich soil. Be careful to never add coal ash, charcoal, animal by-products (including meats, oils, and even droppings) or hair to the pile. These items can be too hard to break down, attract scavengers or introduce diseases to your compost.

In addition to testing the pH and adding compost, you may need to amend your soil type. If your soil is too sandy, dig in up to six inches of compost and add an all-purpose organic fertilizer with humus. If it is claylike, add sand, humus and organic fertilizer, in addition to compost, to the garden bed. Also throw in some gravel or small stones to create better drainage.

Planning Your Plot

As you select a site for a flowerbed, take note of its unique environment — the location of the trees, and the hours of shade and sun the plot receives. This will help you plan the garden’s design. Within any garden there may be several local climates — sunny and dry, shady and moist, semi-shade, or even boglike at a water’s edge. Therefore, you should know your plant’s preferences and place them in the plot accordingly.

Next, think about the colors, heights, textures and bloom times of the plants you are considering. Try to come up with a design that features interesting and creative combinations. Whether your design is simple or complex, pay special attention to planning for sequential flowering. If you place plants that flower at slightly different times around your garden, you are sure to extend your garden’s blooming season.

For example, if you want a flowerbed that features yellow and red blossoms, plant forsythia, yellow daffodils, and red and yellow tulips, which bloom in the spring. For summer blooms, plant yellow and red zinnias, yellow marigolds, red tithonia or yellow coreopsis, red geum and rudbeckia. Finally, plant yellow and maroon chrysanthemums for fall color. This way, you keep the red and yellow theme blossoming through most of the year.

Finally, make sure to keep a garden notebook with the bloom times, performance and any other notes of problems with each plant. If you order your plants by mail, cut its photo from the catalog and paste it in your notebook. Also, you may want to take pictures of your garden during different times of the bloom season. The photos will help you see where holes or problems in your design might be and influence your decisions for next year’s garden.

Picking the Plants

The climate helps determine which plants will thrive in your geographic area. To learn the hardiness of plants in your area, consult a horticultural zone map, found on the Web or in most garden catalogs. Usually, the recommended planting zones will be included in the description of the plant you buy. Also, when picking plants for your garden plot, keep in mind their specific life cycles. Certain plants will last for only one season, while others will return year after year.

Annuals, Perennials and Biennials
Annuals complete their life cycle in one season. The flowers germinate from a seed, mature, and produce flowers and new seeds within one growing season. They do not regenerate for the next season. Annual flowers are mostly summer flowering and are useful fillers in between and around the space when perennials have finished flowering, as well as being attractive on their own.

Perennials also grow and flower in one season; however, they will regenerate each spring. The foliage on most perennials dies back during the cold months when the plant goes dormant, then surfaces again in the spring. Most perennials flower for only a few weeks out of their growing season. In general perennials increase in size and need to be divided in about three years, so give them plenty of space to grow when they are small! Also, try planning your garden with a series of perennials with different bloom times.

Biennial plants complete their life cycle in two growing seasons. Some flower in both the first and second year. Sweet William, foxglove and hollyhock are good examples of common biennial plants.

Roses
Roses have the reputation of being temperamental and difficult to grow. Although they do require special pruning and some extra care, they will reward you with bounty as well as beauty. Roses grow as shrubs, climbers and miniatures. Some roses bloom only once a season, while others provide continuous flowers from late spring to late fall.

Plants for Semi-Shade Environments

Pine and holly trees and azalea, mountain laurel and rhododendron shrubs all prefer acidic soil. Plant them together and add an organic fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants to produce beautiful spring-flowering shrubs. Ferns will also thrive in this environment.

Many early spring-blooming bulbs — like snowdrops, crocus and muscari — will also flower in a partially shaded location. Plant the small bulbs two to four inches deep around the shrubs early in the fall. Add organic bulb food or bone meal to the planting hole. Fertilize them again in early spring.

For early summer flowers, grow blue flowering hydrangea shrubs. Perennial astilbes bloom in late summer and early fall and prefer an acidic soil. Their fernlike flowers have a color range of pink to dark red. Pansies, begonia and impatiens are among the annuals that do well in a semi-shade environment.

Plants for Sunny Sites

If you have an area of your garden that receives full sun, there are countless sun-loving annual, biennial and perennial plants to suit your space and taste.

Perennial dianthus, or pinks, are delightful after a long winter. Fall-planted, spring-blooming tulips and daffodils may precede or be interplanted with all spring, sun-loving perennial flowers, such as poppies and peonies.

Some of the many mainstay summer perennials that love the sun are daylily, scabiosa, campanula and potentilla. Many annuals — such as zinnia, cosmos, calendula, marigold and nasturtium — will continue to produce flowers over a long blooming period if you remove the faded flowers promptly.

Rudbeckia, or black-eyed Susans, return every summer and are good companions to many of the summer annuals like sunflowers and tithonia. Perennial chrysanthemums bloom in the fall for late garden color.

Helpful Hints for Organic Flower Gardeners

All organic gardening is based on the philosophy of prevention rather than cure. The healthier your soil and the stronger your plants, the less likely you’ll be to encounter pests or disease as your garden grows. Therefore, if you plan carefully and take the proper precautions, you will be rewarded with a healthy, abundant and beautiful garden.

Here are some more helpful tips:

Planting

• When planting into your garden plot, make a circular channel at the root base of the plant to catch water. This will help it become established in its new home faster.
• Plant honeysuckle, columbine and bee balm (Monarda) to attract hummingbirds to your garden.
• Plant flowers grouped in masses instead of rows. This will convey a more natural look to your garden.
• In order to achieve an effect of a natural flowering pattern in the spring, gently toss bulbs to the ground and plant them in where they have landed.

Prevention

• Birdbaths are essential to attract and keep birds in your garden. Birds feed on insects and provide visual delight as well.
• Butterflies are important as prey for spiders and other predators. They love hot weather and brightly colored flowers.
• Plant herbs with your flowers for their protective properties. For example, rosemary repels slugs. Basil and tansy repel mosquitoes.
• Plant chili peppers in the organic flower garden and sprinkle dried pepper flakes on the garden to ward off rabbits, raccoons and other wildlife that disturb your flower beds.
• It is important to keep the garden clean of weeds and diseased foliage to prevent the spread of diseases.
• If your roses have aphids, hose them with a jet stream of water. Repeat if you still see them after two days.
• If you discover lacy leaves, you have Japanese beetles. Pick the bugs off in the morning and drown them in a solution of soap and water.
• Do not prune roses after Labor Day. This will give the plant time to harden off for the winter.
• If your roses are plagued by slugs, use a barrier of copper tape wrapped around the base of the plant. You can also use an organic slug deterrent that is sold through catalogs.
• Spray roses with an organic copper or sulfur fungicide weekly to prevent fungus diseases. Remove and discard all diseased foliage.
• As a last resort, use a botanical spray such as Soap Shield or Safer Insecticidal Soap for flowers infested with pests like whiteflies, mealybugs and scale. Check the spray’s label to make sure you are choosing the proper formula for your pests.