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FRAGRANT GARDEN: More good gardening reference books – Austin American

This week I will continue with my review of gardening books that I use most often with my landscape design clients. Last time, I focused on those that reference sustainable and native gardens, and edible gardens and this week will address other well-adapted plantings, many of them focusing on botanicals that have thrived in Texas gardens for hundreds of years.

Herbs might be grouped together with edibles, though they are often planted in gardens designed for them alone. I have perhaps a dozen books focusing on herbs and herb garden design, but if I were to have the choice of only one, it would be “Southern Herb Growing” by Madalene Hill and Gwen Barclay. This book was written by and for gardeners who live very close to us in Central Texas; both authors lived in Round Top when this book was published. It focuses on herbs that will thrive in our long, hot and humid summers and gives detailed information on growing them. It is organized into three parts: A herbal primer on why to grow, designing a garden, growing in containers and propagation; a growing guide for more than 130 featured herbs; and a section on cooking with herbs, both culinary (for cooking) herbs and ornamental herbs are discussed in this book.

Another favorite guidebook for clients is “Heirloom Gardening in the South: Yesterday’s Plants for Today’s Gardens.” I was a Texas Rose Rustler with author Dr. Bill Welch (and associate Greg Grant), beginning in 1981, and have learned much from my intermittent association with him. This book begins with an exploration of our gardening heritage, discussing influence of Native Americans, the Spanish, French, Africans (through African-Americans), English, German, Italian and Asians. Understanding these various influences helps to develop a garden that is in harmony with both the surrounding landscape and also the style of the house (and the owner). He discusses natives and (those dreaded) invasives, how heirloom plants were shared and spread through the South and then gives ideas using basic design principles for designing your own garden.

The following chapter lists plants including trees, shrubs (including old roses), vines, grasses, perennials and bulbs that have survived for hundreds of years in Texas gardens and other areas below the Mason-Dixon Line. A final chapter gives us a view of both authors’ home gardens and how they grew. I actually have two copies of this book, so I can share with more than one design client at a time!

Following in that same vein, I offer “Antique Roses for the South” as an in-depth introduction to the Old Garden Roses. Also by Dr. Welch, this book details an historical perspective of Old Roses and gives information on some of the rose “rustling” endeavors that contributed to our knowledge of, and spreading interest in, their culture and cultivation. He discusses landscaping with Old Roses, arranging them into bouquets, rose crafts and the propagation of roses for sharing with garden friends. The final 100 pages are dedicated to describing care and culture for over 100 roses suitable for gardens in our climate. There is a photo of the front of my old house and cottage garden in Austin on p. 33, showing how I trained the very vigorous climber ‘Mermaid’ into a large pecan tree there.

Another wonderful book from another Texas Rose Rustler is “Landscaping with Antique Roses” by Michael Shoup and Liz Druitt. His book is organized into chapters on designing the garden, integrating roses into the landscape, rustling/propagating/purchasing and planting/protecting/pruning. Following is an encyclopedia of selected Old Garden Roses, most, if not all of them, offered by his Brenham (actually Independence) Texas Antique Rose Emporium Nursery. One little known fact: I was actually a sales representative for the nursery in the mid-1980s, working with nurserymen in the Austin and San Antonio area to get the plants into local retail nurseries. Later, he built his own Independence and then San Antonio facilities and my job ended. At the time, I was importing roses and planting them in my large garden at 48th Street and Evans Avenue in Austin. Many cuttings from plants in that garden later became part of his offerings at the nursery.

The last book most often shared is another Bill Welch classic, “Perennial Garden Color: Perennials, Cottage Gardens, Old Roses, and Companion Plants.” This book was published long ago in 1989 and helped promote wider interest in gardening with old-fashioned plants. He offers information on the roots of our gardens, perennials for easy garden color, arranging those plants in the garden and also buying, planting and caring for them. A later section of the book talks about inter-planting these perennials with Old Garden Roses.

Although native plants will be the most easy-care and sustainable flora in the garden (and also offer the most to our friends the butterflies, birds and other fauna), I always try to find a place for a number of other well-adapted plants in my designs for Central (and SE) Texas Gardens. I hope some of these books will help you to choose suitable plantings for your gardens, as well.

Please address any questions or suggestions you might have for me by visiting my website www.thefragrantgarden.com and clicking on the “CONTACT” tab.”

Salt alternatives for the homeowner

Posted: Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:56 am
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Updated: 9:57 am, Wed Jan 29, 2014.

Salt alternatives for the homeowner

By Bob Beyfuss
For Columbia-Greene Media

registerstar.com

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0 comments

It is minus 8 with the windchill at minus 25 as I write this from my chilly, (53 degree) living room on Jan. 22. I have to drive to Walton NY this morning in Delaware County and I will be wary of any “wet” spots on the highway, since they will surely be black ice. Thank goodness for road salt!


It is not uncommon in the Capital District/Hudson Valley for heavily traveled roads, such as the Thruway, to receive 40 to 80 tons of deicing salt per lane mile per year. That works out to about 15 to 30 pounds per linear foot. It is surprising that any roadside plants can tolerate that much salt, but most do. If they received a fraction of this much salt during the growing season, the roadsides would be devoid of vegetation. There is little the homeowner can do to change the road salt situation but there are some alternatives to salt that may be used in the home environment.

Road salt or deicing salt is mostly unrefined rock salt, containing about 98.5 percent sodium chloride. Calcium chloride is sometimes used when temperatures are extremely low (Rock salt is useless at temperatures below + 10) but it is about eight times as expensive as sodium chloride. Rock salt causes injury to plants by absorbing water that would normally be available to the roots. Even when moisture is plentiful excess salt can create a drought like environment. In addition, when salt is dissolved in water it breaks down into sodium and chloride ions. Roots readily absorb chloride ions and then they are carried through the sap stream to actively growing portions of the plant such as leaf margins and shoot tips. High levels of chloride are toxic and result in characteristic marginal scorch patterns. (Brown edges around the leaves) Excess sodium in soil also hurts plants by encouraging soil compaction, leading to restricted uptake of oxygen and water. Calcium chloride is not nearly as damaging.

Plants most likely to be affected in the home landscape are those that receive lots of salt laden snow. For example, if you routinely apply salt to your porch or steps or deck, the plants growing nearby are most at risk, especially if you shovel snow on top of their root systems. Likewise, plants along your driveway or roadside are more at risk then those in the backyard. So what are the alternatives?

First, buy calcium chloride instead of rock salt or purchase one of the newer deicing materials that are reported to be even less toxic to plants. In recent years several new products have been developed that are very effective at melting snow and ice.

These new products are quite expensive but so are replacement plants! If you just want to improve traction try using sand or kitty litter or even fine gravel. Keep in mind however that you will most likely be tracking these materials into the house along with the snow on your boots. Never use soiled kitty litter for this reason! Wood ashes have also been used for traction, but too much wood ash spread over your plants can raise the soil pH to damaging levels. Wood ash will also be carried in the house with the snow on your boots and it leaves an unsightly gray residue.

I no longer will need any kitty litter, as I lost my beloved cat two weeks ago. My friend Lester Gass shared this quote with me, that he attributed to a woman named Amy Ahberg “Taking on a pet is a contract with sorrow.”

Indeed it is.

on

Saturday, January 25, 2014 9:56 am.

Updated: 9:57 am.

Feburary Gardening Tips

Stop Lawn Weeds this Spring

To have a lush green lawn free of weeds this spring, early February is the best time to apply a pre-emergent.

Pre-emergents work by preventing the weed seed from germinating – so applying at the right time is important. A reliable pre-emergent proven to work well on weeds in the Cedar Creek lake area is Hi-Yield’s Weed Stopper with Dimension.

If you prefer to use an organic product our recommendation is Nature’s Guide Spreadable Corn Gluten. It’s a natural weed preventer and nitrogen fertilizer.

February is also the time to fertilize trees, shrubs, lawns and evergreens. Use a rose or all-purpose garden type fertilizer to feed roses, fruit and flowering trees, plus other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use dry type fertilizers, be sure to water-in thoroughly after application.

Start fertilizing lawns mid – late February. Fertilizing will help bring the grass out of dormancy and boost the growth of new shoots and green up the grass quickly. We recommend a 16-4-12 balanced slow release fertilizer for Cedar Creek.

Spraying. February is a good month to make an application of winter dormant spray on fruit trees to kill damaging insects as they wake up from their winter’s nap. Spray at a time when the wind is not blowing and when temperatures are above freezing.

Pruning. Prune back trees, shrubs and roses before buds start to show. Valentine’s Day is considered the best time to trim back roses.

Freezing Temperatures. If temperatures do drop below 32 degrees use a freeze cloth to protect early flowering or tender plants.


Happy Gardening

Caring For Potted Plants: Gardening Tips

BEST POTTED PLANTS TO GROW IN BALCONIES

For healthy growth, dedicated caring for potted plants is required. Some tips for caring for potted plants are discussed below:

Caring For Potted Plants: Gardening Tips

1.Water – Potted plants have a limited area for roots to penetrate and absorb water. To keep the plant hydrated, regular watering of plants should be done. Water the potted plants every alternate days or at least twice in a week. Water is essential for plant growth and caring of potted plants.

2.Sunlight – Sunlight is an important factor that affects the plant’s growth. Plants that grow outside manage to absorb light in the day. Potted plants, especially the ones inside the house, need to be places in such a way that they get enough sunlight for at least 3-4 hours a day. This is an essential gardening tip for the caring of potted plants.

3.Fertilisers – Potted plants are exposed to nutrients that are present in the soil of the pot. For providing the extra nutrients, you need to care a little extra for the potted plants. Add fertilizers and compost to the soil of the potted plants. You can also use natural compost like kitchen waste, leftover food, vegetable and food debris, etc. for potted plants. Fertilisers are available in a large variety and should be used every 2-3 months, depending on the requirement of the plant.

4.Plant care – A good tip on how to care for potted plants is to trim and prune the plant in regular intervals of time. For healthy growth of potted plants, you need to trim and remove the dead leaves and stem of the plant regularly. The plant’s regeneration speeds up after regular trimming and cutting of the plant.

5.Re-potting – When a plant grows, the roots also start increasing. This is the time when roots start needing more space. Re-potting is necessary when the present pot falls short of space for both the stem and root growth. If adequate space is not provided, the plant growth may get hampered. Once the plant size increases you will either have to choose a pot of bigger size or transfer the plant to open soil. This is one essential tip in caring for potted plants.