New planting
When it comes to planting new trees, shrubs, woody climbers and fruit, a lot of people leave it until Easter is approaching, since that’s their first real opportunity to get to grips with the garden. Although autumn is the traditional time for planting anything with bare roots, now is perfect for pot-grown plants. Two groups in particular benefit from being planted at this time of year: evergreens and perennials. Evergreens always take best when planted at the start of their growing season, and perennials die down in winter, so it’s only now that they’re making new growth – which means you can see what you’re getting with no risk of buying a “dead pot”. Plant now and they will become established in time to put on a good show, even though it’s their first season.
To get new pot-grown plants off to a flying start, dig a planting hole that’s roughly twice the size of the pot, then work plenty of well-rotted compost (or bought soil improver) into the base of the planting hole, along with half a handful of general fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone. If you are planting roses, or you’ve just bought a rare, unusual or expensive shrub and want to give it the best possible start, it’s worth using a product containing mycorrhizal fungi when you plant it. These products are sold in garden centres, in sachets or packets, and the contents act in partnership with the roots in exactly the same way as trees and fungi work together in woodlands. Treated plants become established quickly and the fungus helps them take up nutrients from the soil more efficiently, so they grow better and stronger. For best results, don’t stir the stuff into the soil. Sprinkle the dose on top of improved soil in the base of the planting hole, then tip the plant out of its pot and sit it on top so the base of the root ball is in direct contact with the product.
Make sure the plant is at the right depth: as a general rule, the top of the root ball should end up just buried (especially if you’ll be surrounding the plant with mulch afterwards). But in the case of clematis, plant so the surface of the root ball is two or three inches below the surface of the soil, so it can recover if the above-ground stems are killed off by careless hoeing or clematis wilt.
Fill the gap between the root ball and the edge of the planting hole with some of the soil you originally dug out, mixed with more organic matter. Next firm and (if needed) stake, then finally water it well in. A couple of pieces of broken paving laid around the stem will give a clematis the cool root-run it loves.
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