Gardening Tips: Have Lush Lawns with Little Effort

Starting From Scratch

Whether you choose to establish your lawn by seed or sod, you must prepare the soil properly before planting. Kill any existing grass with an herbicide such as RoundUp or Weed B Gone. Till the area to break up dead grass and compacted soil. When you till, work in any lime recommended by a soil test (available through your county Extension agent) as well as a 1- to 2-inch layer of organic matter. If your soil is poor, you may want to cover it with 2 to 3 inches of topsoil. If you are sowing cool-season grass seeds, apply a high-phosphorus starter fertilizer at this time. Then, use a steel garden rake to level the ground and collect chunks of dead grass and stones. If all the old grass doesn’t come up with the tiller’s first pass, till and rake the soil again. Remember, you are establishing a finished grade so include any contours needed for drainage.

Although a good watering or gentle rain can help settle the soil, the best idea is to go over the area with a roller. This tool can be obtained at most equipment rental centers. A half-filled roller is heavy enough to firm up the soil without compacting it. Rolling the soil helps reveal sunken areas that you can fill and level prior to planting.

Gardening Tips: Have Lush Lawns with Little Effort

Seeding

• Always begin with the right seed for the site. Be sure to check the label for the following items: name of selection, weed-seed content, germination percentage, and
• date tested.
• Sow warm-season grass in spring or summer, and cool-season grass in late summer or fall when temperatures warm. Sow seeds using a drop or rotary spreader. To ensure even coverage, sow half of the seeds in one direction, and the other half at a right angle.
• Roll over the seeds with the half-filled roller, or rake the soil lightly to partially cover the seeds. Lightly cover the bed with weed-free wheat straw to protect the seeds from washing away or drying out. Upon germination, do not remove the straw. With the help of a mulching mower, the straw becomes a nutrient-rich blanket for your young lawn.
• Water daily with a gentle, but soaking sprinkle. Once the grass is 1 to 2 inches tall, water every two to three days. Fertilize after the second or third mowing, and allow one full growing season before applying weedkiller.

Sodding

• When you are ready to lay the sod, water the area the night before to be sure the ground is moist.
• Starting at a straight edge, lay sod in a staggered pattern as you would lay brick. Use a knife or spade to cut pieces to fit odd-sized areas. After all the sod is in place, press it down with the roller to ensure root contact with the soil. Water the sod daily for the first two weeks and then every other day, weaning gradually until you’re watering just once a week.
• When the grass begins to grow, mow and fertilize as you would an established lawn.

Fertilizing

Regardless of whether your lawn is new or long established, a correct approach to fertilizing is essential. Refer to either the results from a soil test or the square-foot coverage printed on the lawn fertilizer bag. Below are a few tips on when to fertilize and what’s the best product for your lawn.

For cool-season grasses such as ryegrass, fescues, and bluegrass apply your fertilizer during the cool part of spring before temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees. For warm-season grasses such as Bermuda, Bahia, St. Augustine, or Zoysia, apply about two to three weeks after the grass turns green and again in mid summer and early fall. Fertilize centipede in spring and summer with 15-0-15 according to label directions.

Controlling Lawn Diseases, Insects, And Weeds
As with all yard problems, the first step in controlling lawn diseases, insects, and weeds is identification. After you’ve identified your problem, follow these tips for a healthier lawn.

Disease Control

• Keep in mind that diseases are often spread by physical contact and are common when turf is wet or shaded. Many lawn diseases can be prevented by better lawn care practices. Water in the morning so that leaves will not remain wet through the evening. Remove clumps of dead grass and leaves to improve air circulation. A well-fed lawn will be more resistant to attacks from disease. Each of the following problems can be controlled through the use of a Daconil product.
• Brown patch damage has no specific size or pattern. When turf shows signs of damage, you may apply a fungicide every 7 to 10 days until recovery begins.
• Dollar spot appears as small, circular spots (1 to 3 inches in diameter) during the summer. It’s common after droughts in Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine, and centipede lawns. A fungicide spray program should be implemented at 7-to-14 day intervals.
• Leaf spot is a pest of St. Augustine. It first appears on the leaves as tiny spots with gray centers. As the disease progresses, the grass looks scorched. Spray every 7 to 10 days until recovery.
• Rusts are identified as yellow, orange, or brown spots on grass blades. All grasses except centipede and Bahia are susceptible. A fungicide spray should be applied every 7 to 14 days until the problem is controlled.

Insect Control

• As a preventive measure in early spring, treat your lawn with carbaryl, Dursban, Diazinon, or malathion if you feel that insects will be a problem.
• In summer months, as the insects move toward the ground surface, treat your lawn again.

Weed Control

• There are two types of weeds- grassy weeds, such as crabgrass and foxtail, and broadleaf weeds such as dandelion, clover, and chickweed.
• Grassy weeds are best controlled using a pre-emergence herbicide applied in early spring-two weeks before the last frost. This controls weeds before they have a chance to take root.
• Broadleaf weeds can be controlled by spraying a weedkiller that contains 2,4-D, MCPP, or dicamba.
• Remember, never combine chemicals and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using any herbicide or pesticide.

Recommended Grasses For The South