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Gardening under glass: Tips for planting a terrarium

If you thought terrariums went out with macramé, mood rings and pet rocks, wake up and smell the 1970s.

If it makes you feel less dated, you can call those fancier terrariums – ones that have the vintage elements of a Victorian-influenced miniature house – by their formal name, Edwardian or Wardian cases.

Historically, botanists used these cases to protect and keep plants alive during shipping, and growing in terrariums was popularized by the Victorians. Terrariums had another heyday in the ‘70s, but those giant fishbowls stuffed with plants were a lot less elegant looking.

I’ve always found these glassed-in structures enormously appealing for their architectural details, but there’s also the fun of gardening under glass. There’s only so much daydreaming and page-thumbing I can do in winter, even with dozens of spring garden catalogs. I want to get my hands dirty.

Tovah Martin, horticulturalist, author and gardening trendsetter, suggests thinking of terrariums as “somebody shrank the garden.” Five years ago, she wrote “The New Terrarium,” which contains solid, practical advice. The challenge is selecting the right plants.

You can use practically any glass container to create this self-contained biosphere. Martin suggests a vase, canning jar, apothecary jar, cookie jar, a glass teapot, and yes, a fish bowl. You can also repurpose an old aquarium. It’s easier if you can get a hand inside the container, but you can always poke in plants with a wooden spoon or even a chop stick.

Make sure the container is scrupulously clean. A lid is helpful because you can better control moisture content. My case has removable glass panels across the top and sides. If you don’t have a lid, leave it uncovered or top it with a plate.

Because there are no drainage holes, you’ll need a layer of pebbles or gravel and a layer of activated charcoal to prevent root rot and keep the soil fresh. Use lightweight potting mix for planting. Depth of the soil may vary depending on the rootball of the plants you want to grow.

Always wear gloves when handling materials and plants.

Martin advises against cactuses, succulents and most herbs except mints because they can rot in the high humidity. Ferns, mosses, orchids, bromeliads, starfish plants, nerve plant, air plant (hello, again, ‘70s!), black mondo grass and strawberry begonia are a few of her favorites. Whatever you chose, they should be small and thrive in low light and humidity.

Don’t just plop in plants. Make sure roots are firm in the soil. Design the environment in the same way you would an outdoor bed – a mix of plant textures and colors and decorative touches. Be creative – a large marble “shooter” for a gazing ball, for example. Check out aquarium supplies or look for dollhouse miniatures like chairs and other items to incorporate into your design.

Water lightly after planting, then close it up and place it in indirect light. If the light is too bright, your plants will be French-fried in a hurry. Martin advises opening the lid every 10 days or so for a half day. Look for condensation after closing the lid again. If you don’t see any, lightly water plants.

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