Croc’s chef doesn’t have to go far for his produce – The Virginian

VIRGINIA BEACH 

There’s a vegetable garden down near the Oceanfront that’s a feast for the eyes.

And for the stomach, too, of course.

This little city garden consists of several rows of lush green produce in raised beds, designed to appeal to the aesthetics and appetite. The gem is behind Croc’s 19th Street Beach Bistro.

Standing tall in the back are still-ripening Roma tomatoes and cocktail tomatoes, various varieties in myriad shapes and colors.

Stair-stepping down in shorter raised beds are medium veggies like eggplant, broccoli and colorful peppers of several descriptions and degrees of hotness, and beds of greens like kale, tatsoi and arugula that will grow well into the winter.

In the front are beds of baby lettuces and herbs. In one bed, a medley of mixed greens spells out “Croc’s” – that is, if the greens aren’t overgrown.

The garden was planted in mid-summer, and now it is lush with cool-weather crops and vegetables that linger into the fall.

The bounty provides most of the produce that is used by chef Matt Knack at Croc’s Bistro. The veggies adorn salads and go into healthy green sides.

Those who visit the Old Beach Farmers Market Thanksgiving market from 9 a.m. to noon Saturday in the Croc’s parking lot will have an opportunity to get the lowdown on the garden.

Even fresher than the produce at the market, the veggies show visitors how their fall greens grow in the field. Marketgoers also can get growing and cooking tips from one of the several collaborators who brought the garden to fruition.

Ashley Grosch, who owns Seasoned Gardens and designed the Croc’s garden, will be available to answer questions. Laura Habr, who owns Croc’s with her husband, Kal, will be at the market that morning, and so will farmer John Wilson of New Earth Farm in Pungo, who built the garden and who will be selling his produce at the market.

Grosch designed the garden using organic-gardening principles, where “friends take care of friends,” she said. For example, beans are used to fix nitrogen in the soil, and edible nasturtiums repel insects.

Grosch designed the beds with an eye to beauty, such as the taller beds and plants in the back that graduate to smaller beds. There is more subtle beauty, too, like the bed of contrasting kales – a row of green kale, then a row of black kale followed by a row of red.

Grosch gave her garden design to Wilson, who built the beds and filled them with a natural compost he made himself. Wilson also provides plants and seeds and ongoing advice.

The garden was a natural fit for Croc’s, Habr said. Not only is Croc’s home to the Old Beach Farmers Market, but the restaurant also is the first one in Virginia to be certified as Virginia Green.

Knack, Croc’s chef, is yet another arm of Croc’s gardening effort. He picks veggies from the garden every morning for that night’s dinner. An autumn side vegetable might be a saute of kale, tatsoi and mizuna with herbs and garlic.

Tatsoi is a pretty, dark-green Asian salad green, similar to bok choy, and mizuna is a peppery green similar to arugula.

“Tomatoes and lettuce are in the salads,” Knack said. “And the peppers, sweet and hot, go into our five-pepper sauce.”

Grosch said they hope to be in the garden every Saturday morning next summer at the Old Beach market.

“We hope to have tours,” she said, “and 101 Garden Instruction.”

Matt Knack’s Sauteed Tatsoi

Serves: 4 to 6

-6 cups tatsoi (about two heads)
-1 tablespoon olive oil
-1 garlic clove, finely diced
-3 sprigs fresh thyme, finely chopped
-Pinch of salt and pepper
-Splash of dry white wine
-Fresh Parmesan cheese, optional

Wash tatsoi, then dry completely. Lay leaves flat on a cutting board. With a sharp knife, slice into half-inch strips all the way down to the stem.
Place saute pan on burner turned to medium-high. Wait about 15 seconds for the pan to heat up. Add olive oil, coating the bottom of the pan. Add garlic, then cook for about 30 seconds to release flavor.

Add the tatsoi. Using tongs, toss the tatsoi so it’s evenly covered with the oil. Add fresh thyme, a pinch of salt and pepper, also tossing for even coating.

Cook for about a minute, keeping the tatsoi moving so it doesn’t burn.

Deglaze the pan with a splash of wine, letting it reduce for 30 seconds.

Grate fresh Parmesan cheese on top before plating, if desired. Serve.

Mary Reid Barrow,

barrow1@cox.net

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