You must determine if your hibiscus is tropical or hardy. Hardy hibiscus plants have very large single or double flowers in white, pink and red. The leaves are heart-shaped and have a dull surface. Tropical hibiscus plants have frilly flowers, about 3 inches across. The flowers are generally yellow, peach, orange, pink or red. The leaves are glossy.
Tropical hibiscus plants should be brought indoors when the nighttime temperatures are about 40 degrees. Take the following steps to winter-over you hibiscus:
•Cut back the plant to within 4 to 5 inches of the main stem.
•Remove all dead leaves and clear debris from the soil surface.
•Thoroughly wash the plant, making sure to rinse the underside of the leaves to knock off any pests before moving the plant indoors.
•Move the plant to an area with a temperature of at least 50 degrees.
•Water only when the soil dries out.
Expect the leaves to yellow and drop off. The plant usually starts to regrow in February or March. If you want to keep the plant actively growing all winter, provide it with bright light and temperatures between 60 and 90 degrees.
Grubs
Q: While planting my tulip bulbs recently I found several grubs in the garden. How do I get rid of them without killing the plants in the garden? I have gardens all around my yard. The grass is treated with the fertilizer and grub control, but I’m afraid to use this near flowers or vegetables.
Kathy
A: It really depends on how many grubs you have. Few gardens have no grubs at all. The basic guideline is to dig up a square foot in several locations (1 foot per 1,000 square feet) to a level of 3 to 4 inches and count the grubs you find. If you average less than 7 to 10 grubs per square foot, there is really no need to do anything. Additionally, grub controls generally have no effect on plants. Note that at this time of year the grubs are burrowing down and may be found up to 8 inches below the soil line.
The usual organic treatments, milky spore (Bacillus popilliae), effective for Japanese beetles, and parasitic nematodes (Steinerema carpocapsae, Heterorhabditis bacteriophora), need to be applied when the grubs are actively feeding. The grubs are now burrowing down in the soil for the winter. These methods are ineffective for the prevention of grub problems and will take several years for effective control provided you have an active population of grubs.
Chemical alternative are available but should be carefully investigated for safe use, particularly on vegetable beds, as well as toxicity to other life forms such as stream and pond life. Note that some products, Sevin (carbaryl) in particular, are harmful to earthworms. Dylox (trichlorfon) is more effect on grubs and does not significantly harm earthworms.
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