This week, let’s consider the tender bulbs. Your first option is the simplest — do nothing. There is no law that says you can’t treat these plants as annuals. They will probably die in the cold of winter, but if you don’t plan to use them again next spring, don’t dig them up. A second option, if they are in containers, just move the containers in for the winter.
If, however, you want to save them, take action after the first killing frost. Pick a time when there will be several days of dry weather, if possible. Loosen the soil around the plant and, using a garden fork, gently lift the cluster.
Bulbs and corms are relatively straightforward: cut off the dead foliage, lay them out to dry for a day or two; brush off soil; and store them in a cool but frost-free area. They can be placed in boxes of peat or sand, wrapped in newspaper or stored in mesh bags. If you see small bulbs or corms attached to the main one, they can be removed and planted to grow new plants. Be aware however, that it will often take several seasons for these to reach blooming size.
Tuberous roots such as dahlias, or rhizomes like cannas often dramatically increase during the growing season. These need a bit more care as damage now can seriously affect your results next year.
Again, as with bulbs, remove the dead foliage, taking care, particularly in the case of dahlias, to preserve a few inches of the main stem with the clump of tubers. Dry and brush clean but now, before storing, consider dividing them into new plants.
While this can be done in the spring, large clumps are difficult to store without breakage. There are specific procedures for dividing some of these plants, so, for now, after they die back in a frost: dig, brush and dry them and gather together your storing material, a knife with a sharp but strong blade, sanitizer and rooting hormone powder. Next week I’ll discuss dividing dahlias and cannas.
If you grew tender tropicals, they need to be stored in warmer locations than the cooler frost-free conditions mentioned above. For example, here are the ideal storing temperatures for a few popular tropicals: Caladiums (70-75 degrees), colocasia/alocasia (Elephant ears) (70-75 degrees), freesia (75-85 degrees), calla lilies (50-60 degrees), and ranunculus (50-55 degrees).
See: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/factsheets/bulbs-summer/bulletin32/storage.html for a good general reference on storage requirements for many tender bulbs.
Readers on voles and moles
Dear Sue: You wrote about keeping pests like moles and voles away. I have had much success with a product called Sonic Molechaser that I purchased from a company called Northern Tool and Equipment. The cost is $25and it covers 11,250 square feet. It’s rather funny that I have such a problem as I have cats that I allow outside when I am home and working in my yard. I guess they have seen me all too often attempting to revive the pests after one of my little fur ones brings me a gift. I actually have two little field mice that I found after disturbing their nest while cleaning out pulled plants. They now have a very cool cage complete with a wheel and all. http://www.northerntool.com
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