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Want to get that “I rocked this” vibe when looking at your lawn? Follow the tips in this column from Master Gardeners Brad and Mary Drury.
Brad: The cool, early summer weather, including a smattering of rain showers and clouds, has been clearly very good to the lawns in this valley. If you have a lawn, assuming you’ve mowed it somewhat regularly and you’ve applied nitrogen at some point this spring, I’d be willing to bet that it’s currently a shimmering vision of velvety emerald softness.
So your lawn looks like the 18th green at Augusta National. Congrats. We’ve successfully grown grass in perfect grass-growing conditions. Problem is, the heat is now hitting, and though the cooler weather might have fooled you a bit, you still live in a high-desert climate zone. So now what?
Mary: As temperatures increase, there are some simple solutions which will both save water and suppress weeds. First, if your mower deck is cutting your grass lower than 3 inches, it’s a good idea to raise it.
It’s very likely in this valley that your lawn is made up of 85 percent to 90 percent Kentucky bluegrass mixed with a variety of rye grass. At lower mowing heights, not only is more frequent mowing required, but the resulting stands of grass will be weaker when mowing height gets below 2 inches. Also, at mowing heights below 2 inches, annual grass weeds like barnyard grass and crabgrass will have a much easier time invading your turf and your lawn will lose more moisture during hot summer months. Subsequent mowings need to be frequent enough so that no more than a third of the leaf is cut at each mowing.
Brad: Even though it is the predominant turf in this area, it’s important to remember that Kentucky bluegrass is actually a cool-season grass and things start to get dicey for it once temperatures rise above 80 degrees. It spreads by rhizomes and tillers to form a dense sod, but it has a characteristically shallow root system, and at 80 degrees or above, root growth basically ceases.
Compared to the warm-season grasses, Kentucky bluegrass has a high water requirement. Therefore, as much as 2 inches of water per week are needed to keep bluegrass green and growing during summer months in our growing zone. Ideally, this amount of water would be applied in one day to wet the entire rootzone of the turf. However, because of its shallow rootzone, Kentucky bluegrass is often unable hold that amount of water.
In my experience, in the heat of a Wenatchee summer, no less than 1 inch of water needs to be applied every 2 to 3 days to promote deeper rooting of bluegrass in this area. And of course, watering should be done between 9 p.m. and 9 a.m. for optimum results.
Mary: For gardeners who remembered to apply pre-emergent herbicide in mid-March this year, remember another application is still needed for best results. Weed seeds will have traveled onto your lawn by various means of transport (wind, shoes, birds, etc.) and many will survive the winter freeze. You can get a head start on next year’s weed control by applying pre-emergent again in mid-September.
Brad: A final component of maintaining a healthy lawn throughout the summer is to keep your lawn mower blades sharp. Blunted mower blades can decrease the surface area of the grass by as much as four times. A shredded or torn grass blade creates a place for water to escape from the plant. This, in turn, can cause the plant to wilt and potentially die. Sharp blades, especially during July and August, will greatly reduce the risk of wilt in your lawn.
Mary: Admittedly, lawn care isn’t the flashiest of topics, but it’s definitely a satisfying sight to see your lush, green lawn at the end of a long day and think “I rocked this.”
A WSU Master Gardeners of Chelan County column appears regularly in the Home, Garden section. Master Gardeners Brad and Mary Drury are two of five columnists featured.
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