Make plans to attend Celebrate Spring Gardening. This event is being offered by CCC-Columbus with help from UNL Extension Master Gardeners.
The event will be held April 19 from 4-7:30 p.m. at Highland Park Church. For information, call Karen Moroczek at (402) 562-1249.
At the event, learn about gardening and do a little shopping. A variety of garden sessions, such as new Proven Winners, growing great tomatoes, and perennials that thrive in the sun will be offered, along with sessions on gardening photography, backyard bird feeding and flower arranging.
A garden market will be set up, and a box lunch will be part of your $20 registration.
Is it time to? This is the most common question I hear in spring. Here’s the answer to two of the most common lawn related questions.
The No. 1 question is about applying preemergence herbicide for crabgrass. Last week soil temperatures in Platte County averaged 45 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a good 10 degrees colder than the majority of crabgrass seed will even begin to germinate.
If you apply your own preemergence herbicide for crabgrass, wait until late April or early May to apply. By waiting, one application will provide effective control. While professional lawn care services have been applying these products, in most cases they make two applications during the season.
A benefit to applying your own is one application can be made at the best time for controlling crabgrass and at the best time for fertilizing. Money is saved and less pesticide is used. Since most crabgrass herbicides are sold as part of fertilizers, waiting until after soil temperatures have warmed to apply promotes a healthier turf less prone to disease.
If you have or will be seeding or overseeding the lawn, preemergence herbicides for crabgrass control cannot be applied to the area. These products will kill young turfgrass seedlings as well as crabgrass seedlings.
The second most common lawn question is about power raking and aerating. April is the month to do both. They can also be done in September.
Aeration is a practice that can be done as often as possible. The soil does need to be moist, but not wet, for effective core aeration.
Core aeration removes plugs of soil. This relieves soil compaction and promotes root and rhizome growth. It increases infiltration of rain and irrigation water and fertilizer into soil. When overseeding, it provides holes for seed to fall into for seed to soil contact.
Power raking removes thatch. This practice is hard on turfgrass and can stir up weed seeds. We only recommend power raking when the true thatch layer exceeds one-half inch. Thatch is a reddish brown mat-like layer found between the soil and green grass. It is made up of dead roots and rhizomes and is most common on highly maintained lawns.
A half-inch thatch layer is beneficial for turfgrass. It protects the plant crown from traffic and temperature extremes. Excessive power raking could prevent this half-inch layer from developing, creating stress for the lawn. However, once true thatch exceeds one-half inch, power raking is the only way to reduce it.
Some homeowners lightly power rake to clean up the lawn in spring. This makes the homeowner feel better, more than it helps the lawn. It is fine to do; however, be sure that core aeration is also practiced. If you only have time or money for one of these practices, core aeration is the one to go with.
Kelly Feehan is a UNL extension educator-horticulture. She can be reached at (402) 563-4901 or by email at either environment.unl.edu or platte.unl.edu.
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